My SIIa 109 ex2.6 tinkerings

[MuckUte]

Just thought i would chuck up some pics of my Landy, have been fixing a few bits to get it driveable after sitting for nearly 8 years in a pigeon filled barn.

Some details,

1967 SIIa 109 6cyl
Body 34700810a
Engine 34700124a now running Holden engine


Rumor has it (started by first owner) that it is the first 6cyl Landy registered in S.A. but doubt this can ever be proved and most likely meaningless as the original engine is gone and replaced with a Holden engine :o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/903.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/904.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/905.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/906.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/907.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/908.jpg

I have replaced both footwells, replaced the rear brakes and all flexi hoses. Rebuilt the brake booster.

Took it for its first decent run today (about 20Mi) and didn't seem to have any real issues and as the weather was so good i decided to take the full roof off and run topless.

[Series3 GT]

Looks like its neat enough, It should make a great project if the chassis is solid. The holden motor looks like it's been done right from what I can see. I'm interested to know what a Holden powered IIA goes compared to the 2.25 and 2.6. Everyone says the 2.25 is better than holden six but the holden is better than the rover six. Keep us posted on how you go. Are you going to make it a ute or wagon and get it back on the road?

[Landy Smurf]

i like it, looks good topless if i do say myself

[MuckUte]

Looks like its neat enough, It should make a great project if the chassis is solid. The holden motor looks like it's been done right from what I can see. I'm interested to know what a Holden powered IIA goes compared to the 2.25 and 2.6. Everyone says the 2.25 is better than holden six but the holden is better than the rover six. Keep us posted on how you go. Are you going to make it a ute or wagon and get it back on the road?

The chassis has no rust in it and the bulkhead is also solid.

The engine mounts look like the ones in the Johnson conversion instructions HERE (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?action=jump&catid=7&id=53). I have to do some searching to find out what radiator hoses were used as mine are stuffed and the radiator also looks like it will disintegrate if I hit a big bump.

For now I will just use the ute cab if I want a roof as it is much easier to fit on my own that the wagon roof. I would love to have a soft top but can't justify the cash when I already have the other two lids. It also came with a canvas tonneau and bars to suit.

I've had it back on the road for a couple of weeks now and even out it to work yesterday.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/669.jpg

Also thought i'd share one of the small additions by a previous owner

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/670.jpg

Nick

[pop058]

A narrow light 6 cyl. ???

[JDNSW]

A narrow light 6 cyl. ???

Six cylinder came out in 1967, headlights went to the guards about 1969, depending on where it was built, so there were at least two years of sixes with narrow lights.

John

[Series3 GT]

I love IIA's they are solid and have the solid metal dash still instead of the SIII but are better on road than a SI or SII. They had a few more years on the IIA than the II to refine them.

[MuckUte]

I just had a flick through the Service and Maintenance book and it had it's pre delivery inspection on 9 july 1967

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/640.jpg

[MuckUte]

Got sick of the engine leaking oil everywhere so have sourced a replacement. I have decided to frehen this one up even though i was told it was a good engine when removed but it had also been sitting for over 10 yrs. It was also covered in more oil than the one it is replacing.

Pulled it down to find that it id most likely hadn't had many oil changes in it's life (black sludge everywhere and scuffed bearing surfaces) but everything else looks ok. Is even running Holden pistons in a virgin bore! Am going to check bores and pistons tommorrow and start cleaning, but at this stage it's just going to get a hone, new bearings and rings and slap it back together and see how it goes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/535.jpg

[Landy Smurf]

what holden engine is that?

[MuckUte]

what holden engine is that?

It's a 173HC from a LH/LX going by the engine number

[geodon]

QUOTE:I have to do some searching to find out what radiator hoses were used as mine are stuffed and the radiator also looks like it will disintegrate if I hit a big bump.

Might this be of assistance?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/holden-powered-series-land-rovers/148457-radiator-hoses.html

But wait!! Yours is a six!

Sorry if it has a different radiator to a 2.25.

[MuckUte]

Thanks Geodon but my radiator has the top inlet on the side not the center. I spent about 45mins at my local parts place trying hoses with the help of one of the guys there and found a set that will work.

[MuckUte]

Spent most of today cleaning parts getting ready for putting the new engine back together and all was going well untill I pressed the drive gear off the old camshaft. When I started cleaning it and found that it was still the factory fibre gear and also that it had a big crack so it's off the auto shop in the morning to source a new set. Oh well two steps forward, one step back

[MuckUte]

Got under it this arvo to check the gearbox oil levels and was not happy to find only about 300ml of gold coloured oil in the main box. T-case looked ok. Kicking myself for not checking sooner especially as the box has only a couple of thousand k's since it had a full rebuild, just that it sat idle for the last 8 years.

[MuckUte]

Got to the transfer case today and found some of the oil that was missing from the gearbox as it had about 1L more than it should have it also had a lovely metallic brass look to it like the main box.

Knocked up a filler bottle to make filling easier from underneath.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1542.jpg

With the same low pressure regulator from my brake bleeder inline with a tyre inflator it effortlessly pushes the oil into the box

[MuckUte]

Yesterday I decided to investigate why the fuel gauge on the main tank was stuck on 1/4 full.

Pulled the sender out of the tank to find....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1539.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1540.jpg

Much to my suprise most of the rust flaked off the outside leaving the original galv finish and once i got the cover off and cleaned the inside it was working like a charm again :)

Took the oportunity to also flush the main tank as it was full of rust and other crap. So now i have two useable tanks again and also half an idea how much fuel is onboard

[MuckUte]

Went to go and pick up some firewood from a mates house on Saturday and found that both the clutch and brakes were very spongy. When I drove it a couple of days earlier all was fine.

The original lid for my bean can was damaged and it currently has a plain lid with no vent and I was thinking this could be the cause of my problems. We had a couple of hot days inbetween the two drives and I was wondering if the heating and cooling with no vent would have caused air to be sucked in through the seals either in the slave or master cylinders or both?

Is the breather in the standard lid just a hole or does it have some sort of valve to let air in and stop fluid from splashing out. I have punched a small hole in the lid I have but am also on the lookout for an original lid.

[MuckUte]

The breather hole seems to be doing it's job so far, brakes and clutch are all good for now.

With a bit of use the engine is leaking less oil, still looking forward to getting the replacement finished and fitted.

I am thinking about trying a set of 3.5 ratio diffs, can get hold of a pair easily but I am a bit concerned that 3.5 will be a bit tall. At the moment the Landy is just used for on road duties and 1st doesn't get used and after working out overall ratios 1st with the 3.5 diff will be a little bit shorter than 2nd with the 4.7.

As changing the rear diff isn't a lot of work I think I will change that one and see how it goes.

[JDNSW]

The brake fluid lid has a baffle on the inside to stop splashing out - I haven't ever looked closely at one though.

John

[MuckUte]

Managed to get a bit done today.

Nearly finished putting my new engine together, just have rocker cover, sump and side covers to go.

Picked up some diff centers today, one is newly rebuilt and never run and the other one is used but is in very good condition.

My plan for tommorow is to swap the center in the rear and see how it all goes

[MuckUte]

The brake fluid lid has a baffle on the inside to stop splashing out - I haven't ever looked closely at one though.

John

Funny you say that, since have punched a hole in the new lid it has stopped the fluid that had been leaking out and collecting in the lip at the top of the bean can.

[MuckUte]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1310.jpg


Got the rear diff center fitted today the center on the left is the new rear diff, on the right is the old and the one at the rear is the new rear, The diff in the car has been worked on before and was sealed only with silicone which always makes removal easy.

Took it for a spin and straight away noticed how much quieter it is to drive. It has also made the flat spot I have been ignoring more obvious in top gear. Got all excited on my test drive and decided to wind it out on the freeway and was quite happy with how it felt and sounded at 100kph and apart from needing to get the wheels balanced (currently no weights on the wheels at all) I am quite happy.

Top gear at the moment maybe a bit tall but I think I will leave the diff as it is and see how it goes when the new engine is fitted, hopefully being fresher and sorting out the carb issues it will be all good.

Tracked down another issue today also, the brakes have been sticking on lately and finally isolated the problem to the brake servo, pulled it out and found brake fluid in places it shouldn't be, cleaned it up and re-assembled and all is good for now but i guess a new booster may be on the cards.

[mick88]

Very nice tidy unit and it looks like living for years in the old barn have kept it in reasonably good order.
With the oil leaks on your motor make sure it is breathing ok as I see you have the sealed cap on the rocker cover oil filler. My motor is an earlier model and I had fitted a sealed cap like the one on yours thinking that it will breath well enough through the pcv valve.
Not the case!
It was ok running around locally but on the highway at constant speeds (95-100) it would spit oil out anywhere it could......eg rocker cover, side plates, sump etc. Not a lot, but just enough to be annoying. I fitted new cork gaskets all round and made sure the pcv valve was all good. Still the same! Finally changed the oil filler cap to the original spec breather type (with the steel mesh in it) and all good. It doesn't spit any oil out now.
If you have a look at the photo's of the Holden motor in the Johnson Conversion link you posted there is a good shot of this type of engine breather.

Are the diff centres you fitted 3.54's?

Cheers, Mick.

[MuckUte]

Very nice tidy unit and it looks like living for years in the old barn have kept it in reasonably good order.
With the oil leaks on your motor make sure it is breathing ok as I see you have the sealed cap on the rocker cover oil filler. My motor is an earlier model and I had fitted a sealed cap like the one on yours thinking that it will breath well enough through the pcv valve.
Not the case!
It was ok running around locally but on the highway at constant speeds (95-100) it would spit oil out anywhere it could......eg rocker cover, side plates, sump etc. Not a lot, but just enough to be annoying. I fitted new cork gaskets all round and made sure the pcv valve was all good. Still the same! Finally changed the oil filler cap to the original spec breather type (with the steel mesh in it) and all good. It doesn't spit any oil out now.
If you have a look at the photo's of the Holden motor in the Johnson Conversion link you posted there is a good shot of this type of engine breather.

Are the diff centres you fitted 3.54's?

Cheers, Mick.


I have tried running it without the filler cap and it was still pushing oil out of the dip stick tube, the front and rear seals seem to be leaking less though. I think the rings were a bit stuck in the pistons causing the blow-by. The car this engine was in was used as a farm hack so I am not suprised that it's not in real good condition.

Yes, the diffs are 3.54's

[MuckUte]

Putting my landy on display at the local show on Saturday and as there is a chance of rain I thought it was a good reason to see how the tonneau cover that came with the car looked.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/636.jpg

I was quite suprised at how good it's condition is, there are a couple of sections on the passenger side where someone has been a bit enthusiastic cleaning and has washed the colour out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/637.jpg

I'm wondering if there is supposed to be any sort of strip along the back of the cab that the cover attatches to as the rope there doesn't seem to pull the front section tight enough leaving quite a big gap between the cover and the top lip of the tray(can't really see in the picture). I know Land Rover's aren't exactly well sealed but this seems like a big gap.

I can't find any pictures of similar covers on the internet so I am wondering if this is a Land Rover item or a custom job. From what I have seen of other Landy's the spare is usually mounted behind the driver but the spare retaining bracket has never been fitted here and the rivets etc look factory on the other side, with the cover made to suit this arangement it would point to a custom unit?

The frame looks like a shorter version of the full height hood but I didn't snap any pictures before the cover went on.

[NiteMare]

i'm in the UK and i've never seen a tonneau cover quite like that, i'm guessing it's an aftermarket item that a previous owner had made up, it is smart looking though, i have seen a couple on 88" vehicles over here but they are definitely aftermarket with only a single support rib to stop the centre filling with water, i'd not expect to see a seal strip or filler along the back of the cab due to the difficulty of fitting and possible vibration rubbing through the tonneau

i'm going to take a wild guess here, you appear to have two tank fillers on the side of your tub, so i'm going to guess you have two tanks on the drivers side with the second one taking up the space usually reserved for the wheel well, this could be why your wheel is sitting in the nearside, it does look strange but could have been a special order

nice looking truck :thumbsup:

[gromit]

You probably need a drip strip like the one below.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/546.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/547.jpg


The cover looks great but I don't think it's 'original'.



Colin

[MuckUte]

i'm going to take a wild guess here, you appear to have two tank fillers on the side of your tub, so i'm going to guess you have two tanks on the drivers side with the second one taking up the space usually reserved for the wheel well, this could be why your wheel is sitting in the nearside, it does look strange but could have been a special order

nice looking truck :thumbsup:

You are correct, the second tank is in the usual spare tyre mount position but the instalation is quite rough compared with the fitting of the spare tyre holder.


You probably need a drip strip like the one below.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/546.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/547.jpg


The cover looks great but I don't think it's 'original'.



Colin

That drip strip looks the goods, I am thinking something similar with a bit of sail track to retain the front edge.

I snapped some pics of the frame tonight also (only poor quality phone camera)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/548.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/549.jpg

[MuckUte]

Had a good day at the show. They had the usual stuff for a rural show, horses, stationary engine display, sheep dogs, side shows and plenty of taders. It was a bit hot but got to catch up with a few people and it was also good chatting to people interested in the landy.

Took home a couple of prizes for the landy but it was a bit of a hollow victory as there wasn't a big turnout for the ute section.

Also dug out the jerry can holder that was also amongst the stuff that came with the vehicle, there was two but somewhere in the past one was destroyed along with a re arangement of the rear corner when used as a parking sensor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/361.jpg

[harry]

bad news about the parking sensor, good news about the awards, any reward is a reward,
in years to come you might have been up against a hundred or so utes :D

i have been watching your build up with interest and am inpressed with your progress, i wish i had the time and dedication to commit to my toys.

now, the real reason for popping up in your thread is to ask you and all that are here,
the tailights in this picture, where does one find replacements?
this is the first picture i have seen of this style which is the same as on my IIA,
any ideas?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/361.jpg[/QUOTE]

[MuckUte]

Hi Harry, thanks for checking out my thread.

The plan was just to get it up and runnig while I do a ground up resto on my WB but I keep finding myself working on the Landy and not my WB.

I have entered shows with 100+ utes and the effort that some put in is amazing and the dummy spits when they don't win are also pretty good to watch :D

If you are looking for the brake lights they are a Wipac light, the number n the lens is s170 and I think the LR part number for the assembly is 541522. There are THESE (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-110-RED-BRAKE-TAIL-LAMPS-LIGHTS-SOLD-AS-A-PAIR-/130845898696?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7705f7c8) reproductions on e-bay and Four Wheel Drives have them in their catalog also.

[gromit]

If you are looking for the brake lights they are a Wipac light, the number n the lens is s170 and I think the LR part number for the assembly is 541522. There are THESE (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-110-RED-BRAKE-TAIL-LAMPS-LIGHTS-SOLD-AS-A-PAIR-/130845898696?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7705f7c8) reproductions on e-bay and Four Wheel Drives have them in their catalog also.

4-Wheel Drives list the rear lights as above but last time I checked they didn't stock them.


Colin

[gromit]

If you are looking for the brake lights they are a Wipac light, the number n the lens is s170 and I think the LR part number for the assembly is 541522. There are THESE (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-110-RED-BRAKE-TAIL-LAMPS-LIGHTS-SOLD-AS-A-PAIR-/130845898696?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7705f7c8) reproductions on e-bay and Four Wheel Drives have them in their catalog also.


Some details on Lucas taillights, indicators etc. here :-
http://www.s2cforum.com/forum/index.php'topic=18499.0


Colin

[harry]

Thanks for the info on the taillights.



sneaks off to eBay for some retail therapy

[MuckUte]

Good luck with your search Harry.

I started my engine swap this morning and all has gone fairly well, no siezed bolts and no skinned knuckles but then I pulled the clutch off the old engine.....

First there was no spigot bush in the end of the crankshaft and then once I got the pressure plate off the flywheel I found this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/217.jpg

and

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/218.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/219.jpg

So much for it being replaced shortly before being put in 'storage'.

So I need some help, first off is the pressure plate a Land Rover or Holden item? it is 9 1/2 in diameter. Also I need somewhere to get the flywheel machined, somewhere in Mt Barker would be good.

[MuckUte]

My other question is, can the pressure plate be skimmed or will I have to replace it also. There is no cracking in the flywheel or pressure plate just the wear that can be seen in the pictures

[MuckUte]

Got my flywheel machined (1hr turnaround :) )and picked up a new clutch and also some new engine mounts during the week.

So after spending a couple of hours at work I came home and started the re-assembly.

Still had a couple of bits to put on the engine before re-fitting , filled the oil pump with Motor Honey to make sure it primes and fitted the flywheel and clutch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1196.jpg
Looks good considering that is the factory paint.

All went fairly well as I had an old input shaft for aligning the clutch. Was hoping to get it started today but had a few PO bodges and other little bits to fix.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1197.jpg

[MuckUte]

All went fairly smoothly yesterday, got the radiator in, connected everything up, filled engine with water and oil and crossed my fingers and turned the key....

I was very relieved when it fired straight up and didn't make any strange noises, ran in the cam and set about fitting the front and floor back in so I could take it for a much awaited test drive.

It definately feels stronger, I guess thats a combination of the bigger capacity and being fresher. The car defiantely needs work, at this stage I am thinking of fitting either a weber or a 2-barrel stromberg.

[MuckUte]

Well everything has been going well with the Landy lately, fitted a new carb (Weber 34 ADM) and it has made a big improvement over the Varajet it still needs a bit of tuning but jets are much easier to find than stuff for the old carb.

Got the wheels balanced and fitted new door hinge pins so now driving over 80k's is a much more pleasent experience.

Also been fitting new spring bushes and have hit a problem, backs went fine but just pulled the front passenger and found this,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/94.jpg

So I am now looking for a front passenger side spring P/N 264563

[mick88]

All went fairly smoothly yesterday, got the radiator in, connected everything up, filled engine with water and oil and crossed my fingers and turned the key....

I was very relieved when it fired straight up and didn't make any strange noises, ran in the cam and set about fitting the front and floor back in so I could take it for a much awaited test drive.

It definately feels stronger, I guess thats a combination of the bigger capacity and being fresher. The car defiantely needs work, at this stage I am thinking of fitting either a weber or a 2-barrel stromberg.

Sounds great, what cam did you fit into it, standard or something else?


Cheers, Mick.

[MuckUte]

The cam i used is THIS (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-6-149-161-173-179-186-202-3-3-CAM-MILD-POWERBOSS-CS1290-/160993935643?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257bfc811b) seems to be going ok

[MuckUte]

Well, unfortunately my part in this story has come to an end.

Sold the landy on the weekend, unfortunately it was one of to many projects.