OlliesLRover
19th November 2012, 06:11 PM
As can be seen by all the threads I have started lately, I have been a busy beaver working on my toy (Disco 1994 V8i auto) trying to fix lots of little things.
I do try the search function before starting threads but it doesn't seem to work for me, I tend to get every thing that's not relevant to what I am looking for so I must be doing something wrong (typical):angel:.
Anyway on topic, I have been having problems with the central locking (key only no remote) with doors not locking/unlocking properly.
1/ When using the key on the the drivers side, the passenger side door on occasion won't lock/unlock properly, that is the button only comes up/down about half way.
So I pulled the door trim off to have a squiz and found that the linkages that connect to the actuator had worn, and were a bit loose causing the actuator piston to bend/tilt thus not allowing it to fully extend/close.
After loosening the bracket holding the actuator, I adjusted the bracket enough so that the piston was opening/closing in a straight line and the buttons popped up/down just like a new one.
2/ Next on the list was the passenger side rear door, it has never worked so off came the trim and I removed the actuator and will replace it with a new one from Jaycar??.
3/ The tailgate door actuator has never worked either so again removed the trim and found that plug from the actuator was just hanging and not connected to the car wiring, so I found the other end of the plug and the strange thing is that although both the wiring plugs had yellow and orange wires attached when you fitted the plugs together, and they can only be fitted one way you ended up having the yellow and orange wires marrying up not yellow to yellow & orange to orange, could this be why the motor has blown in this actuator????.
Also this actuator is different to the main door ones, not sure if it is because it is more heavy duty being the tailgate door, I noticed in another post re broken door springs there was a photo and it clearly showed the actuator and it was the same as mine, so one could assume it is an origional and not a previously replaced OEM one (brand name is Kiekert W Germany).
Now the Questions
1/ No questions, only documented as a possible fix for others with the same symptoms.
2/ Jaycar has slave actuators on their website that look like they will do the trick Slave Door Lock Actuator - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8813) has anybody used these and do they fit and work ok.
3/ Does anybody know if the same Jaycar actuator will work on the tailgate door or does it need to be a more heavy duty one and if so where I can get one, plus also as described in no: 3/ should the plug wires have matched (orange to orange) or does it not matter which way they go.
4/ Is the passenger side front actuator a master or a slave, reason I ask is that the key opens all doors same as the drivers side.
A long post I know, but if I don't ask then I will never find out.
ps: have added some pics.
Regards
Richard
I do try the search function before starting threads but it doesn't seem to work for me, I tend to get every thing that's not relevant to what I am looking for so I must be doing something wrong (typical):angel:.
Anyway on topic, I have been having problems with the central locking (key only no remote) with doors not locking/unlocking properly.
1/ When using the key on the the drivers side, the passenger side door on occasion won't lock/unlock properly, that is the button only comes up/down about half way.
So I pulled the door trim off to have a squiz and found that the linkages that connect to the actuator had worn, and were a bit loose causing the actuator piston to bend/tilt thus not allowing it to fully extend/close.
After loosening the bracket holding the actuator, I adjusted the bracket enough so that the piston was opening/closing in a straight line and the buttons popped up/down just like a new one.
2/ Next on the list was the passenger side rear door, it has never worked so off came the trim and I removed the actuator and will replace it with a new one from Jaycar??.
3/ The tailgate door actuator has never worked either so again removed the trim and found that plug from the actuator was just hanging and not connected to the car wiring, so I found the other end of the plug and the strange thing is that although both the wiring plugs had yellow and orange wires attached when you fitted the plugs together, and they can only be fitted one way you ended up having the yellow and orange wires marrying up not yellow to yellow & orange to orange, could this be why the motor has blown in this actuator????.
Also this actuator is different to the main door ones, not sure if it is because it is more heavy duty being the tailgate door, I noticed in another post re broken door springs there was a photo and it clearly showed the actuator and it was the same as mine, so one could assume it is an origional and not a previously replaced OEM one (brand name is Kiekert W Germany).
Now the Questions
1/ No questions, only documented as a possible fix for others with the same symptoms.
2/ Jaycar has slave actuators on their website that look like they will do the trick Slave Door Lock Actuator - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8813) has anybody used these and do they fit and work ok.
3/ Does anybody know if the same Jaycar actuator will work on the tailgate door or does it need to be a more heavy duty one and if so where I can get one, plus also as described in no: 3/ should the plug wires have matched (orange to orange) or does it not matter which way they go.
4/ Is the passenger side front actuator a master or a slave, reason I ask is that the key opens all doors same as the drivers side.
A long post I know, but if I don't ask then I will never find out.
ps: have added some pics.
Regards
Richard