Servicing your FL2 TD4

[inside]

Well I had a go at this and it's all quite straight forward except the oil filter. I did a "B" service which is:

Engine oil filter and seal
Pollen filter
Air filter
Fuel filter

Let's start with the easy bit. The pollen filter really a 5 minute job as described here. Cool accent :cool:
Land Rover LR2 Cabin Filter Replacement - YouTube

Air filter. Couple of torx screws and that's a 5 minute change too.

Fuel filter well this is a little harder. You need to remove 3 screws for the acoustic cover so you can see the top of the engine. You will see the fuel filter at the front of the engine near the radiator. You disconnect all fuel lines, remove three allen key bolts and you also need to remove the metal shield from the front, again three bolts. Remove old filter and replace with a new one. Now the tricky bit you need to prime the filter as simply connecting the lines will leave you with a non starting engine. LR require a special tool for this the part number is 310-163 and the price is 216 Euro. So instead of that get this tool Diesel Injection System Priming Device (http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/1/AT000WH101Aa). You will also need about half a metre of 10mm fuel hose. Connect as shown in the attached PDF. Pump till hard and have some rags ready as you will get a bit of diesel around the place. Replace everything and it should be good.

Now oil and filter. remove bash plate, undo sump plug and drain oil. Now for the fun bit and I recommend you get one of these. Silverline 993058 27 mm Flexible Ratchet Spanner: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/314czVxdWRL.@@AMEPARAM@@314czVxdWRL. If someone can help with me getting one of these in Australia it would be appreciated. I used a 27mm socket and bar and it is just really hard to get at. Trust me the 27mm ratchet spanner would make the job very simple, like 10mins comaperd to the hour I struggled. Anyway once done remove plastic oil filter cover, replace filter, use new copper sump plug, fill with 5.9L of oil.

Total cost was $170 for genuine service parts delivered. $85 for 10L of oil. $45 for priming tool which I can use again. Recommended time is 2.1 hours, for me about 3.1 because of that damn oil filter but 2.1 hours easy now I've done it.

What does LR charge for this? $600?

[sin008]

awesome! looks like i'll be doing this soon! glad to see alot of do-it-your-self here! :)

[mikehzz]

I haven't had a dealer service for over 100,000 kms but I get a mechanic to follow the service schedule because I have extended warranty that I don't want to void. I have helped him a few times so I know where everything is when the warranty runs out in September. The oil filter sucks indeed...could they have made it harder? :)

[Nairbr]

A company called Gear Wrench make those flexible ratchet spanners, you have to go to speciality tool stores to get them or Ebay. They are a must have for working on cars
WRENCHES > Ratcheting > | GearWrench™ (http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/)

[gconran]

Mine is due shortly - first time round it took me an age to get the oil filter off. This time round Im prepped with a 27mm ratchet ring spanner and knowing what I am in for will save me at least an hour and a half.
The hardest problem I had was actually seeing the oil once I filled it - I overfilled it to start off with! Its so bloody hard to see on the dipstick!!!

[fonfe]

Well I had a go at this and it's all quite straight forward except the oil filter. I did a "B" service which is:

Engine oil filter and seal
Pollen filter
Air filter
Fuel filter

Let's start with the easy bit. The pollen filter really a 5 minute job as described here. Cool accent :cool:
Land Rover LR2 Cabin Filter Replacement - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtQAQEsL2dU)

Air filter. Couple of torx screws and that's a 5 minute change too.

Fuel filter well this is a little harder. You need to remove 3 screws for the acoustic cover so you can see the top of the engine. You will see the fuel filter at the front of the engine near the radiator. You disconnect all fuel lines, remove three allen key bolts and you also need to remove the metal shield from the front, again three bolts. Remove old filter and replace with a new one. Now the tricky bit you need to prime the filter as simply connecting the lines will leave you with a non starting engine. LR require a special tool for this the part number is 310-163 and the price is 216 Euro. So instead of that get this tool Diesel Injection System Priming Device (http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/1/AT000WH101Aa). You will also need about half a metre of 10mm fuel hose. Connect as shown in the attached PDF. Pump till hard and have some rags ready as you will get a bit of diesel around the place. Replace everything and it should be good.

Now oil and filter. remove bash plate, undo sump plug and drain oil. Now for the fun bit and I recommend you get one of these. Silverline 993058 27 mm Flexible Ratchet Spanner: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-993058-Flexible-Ratchet-Spanner/dp/B000NBTX2W). If someone can help with me getting one of these in Australia it would be appreciated. I used a 27mm socket and bar and it is just really hard to get at. Trust me the 27mm ratchet spanner would make the job very simple, like 10mins comaperd to the hour I struggled. Anyway once done remove plastic oil filter cover, replace filter, use new copper sump plug, fill with 5.9L of oil.

Total cost was $170 for genuine service parts delivered. $85 for 10L of oil. $45 for priming tool which I can use again. Recommended time is 2.1 hours, for me about 3.1 because of that damn oil filter but 2.1 hours easy now I've done it.

What does LR charge for this? $600?


Actually that's really not all that's done in a dealer service. That's all the parts that are changed yes but a lot more is done to the car..... All cars are checked for outstanding recalls via the dealer website access (not available to non dealer workshops) full DTC read is carried out, h20 content in brake fluid is measured, coolant strength is measured, battery voltage and condition measured, pad and disc thickness and run out is measured, tyres are rotated, air con temp is measured and all suspension bushes are individually checked by hand, locks and latches are lubricated, handbrake is adjusted, and all levels are checked.....just to name a few points. All of this is preventive maintenance that is per LR recommendations. Granted you don't have to do any of that and any of the further list that I have not mentioned if you do not wish to but I'm just pointing out that filter and oil changes are NOT all that the dealer does then charges you for. You also need to include the charge for oil filter disposal....as they don't just put it in household waste as I'm guessing you did.

My suggestion is next time someone takes their car in for a service with a reputable dealer that they watch the technician working on the car......they do a lot more than you think.

[Alan7140]

"Tyres are rotated" -

This falls into the "maybe" or "if we feel like it" categories. Apparently with some dealers it is more important to wash the car and spray the tyres with some sticky crap (to make them look black) which also goes all over the mags and makes the wheels grab every bit of disk pad dust and adhere it firmly so that it takes several future washes to get rid of it.

The one time I actually asked the dealer to rotate the wheels during a service, guess which thing they "forgot" to do? [bighmmm]

[fonfe]

"Tyres are rotated" -

This falls into the "maybe" or "if we feel like it" categories. Apparently with some dealers it is more important to wash the car and spray the tyres with some sticky crap (to make them look black) which also goes all over the mags and makes the wheels grab every bit of disk pad dust and adhere it firmly so that it takes several future washes to get rid of it.

The one time I actually asked the dealer to rotate the wheels during a service, guess which thing they "forgot" to do? [bighmmm]

Yer they do forget often im sure but the only solution is to Find a better dealer. Not all of them are the same after all.....Red rooster was great when I lived in albury, now I'm in townsville its crap!

[gwendoug]

Hi was just wondering if anyone knew where I could buy a diesel primer pump? It is for a 2012 Range Rover Evoque. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks Doug.

[inside]

This tool works, have used it myself on a FL2 Diesel. Leaks a little in use but gets the job done.

Diesel Injection System Priming Device (http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/1/AT000WH101Aa)

[260DET]

It's a bit disappointing to note that the FL2 does not have a priming pump as part of the filter housing as a lot of non euro diesels do.

[woko]

This tool works, have used it myself on a FL2 Diesel. Leaks a little in use but gets the job done.

Diesel Injection System Priming Device (http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/1/AT000WH101Aa)
I've got the same type and have the same issue with it leaking. It works but leaks. I have measured the fittings and the Freelander has 10mm and the fittings on the pump are 3/8. So make sure they are 10mm


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[Xtreme]

Just wondering if anyone has successfully used one of these to bleed the fuel system?

Universal 10mm Hose Fuel Line Assembly Outboard Primer Bulb FOR CAR Boat O7S6 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-10mm-Hose-Fuel-Line-Assembly-Outboard-Primer-Bulb-for-Car-Boat-O7S6-/141943729636?hash=item210c816de4:g:~pAAAOSwBnVW-lOE&autorefresh=true)

Considerably cheaper than the 'Special tool' referred to in previous posts.

[FisherX]

I've had our FL2 TD4 for a year now and done 2 services in that time. The first when I bought the car cause I don't trust car dealers and used a 27mm socket on the oil filter. What a pain in the backside :mad:. Ended up to be a two man job, one below guiding the socket and one above on the breaker bar.

I then bought the 27mm flex ratchet spanner from ebay. Made it super easy and just a 5min job.

I'm a bit tight so I didn't worry about the primer kit. Just a bit of old fuel hose in the mouth and give a suck ;). I love the taste of diesel in the morning.

[Xtreme]

I ordered one of the above mentioned priming bulbs but needed to do the service before it arrived due to my planned departure for FNQ.

When it came to replacing the fuel filter, I learnt that you can get away without needing special bleeding tools to suck the fuel up into the filter by simply removing the drain screw, blocking the drain outlet with your finger and filling the filter with fuel from where you removed the drain screw. Once filled with fuel you replace the drain screw, remove your finger from the outlet then replace old filter with new primed filter and motor should start without a problem.

The priming bulb actually arrived early .............. the day after I replaced the fuel filter. :D
Anyway after using the method of pre priming the filter, I will be doing the same next time so I will need to find another use for the priming bulb. ;)

[ozzy.adam.9]

Rather than start a new topic I'll ask here.
What oil is everyone using and where is best to buy. LR have given me the spec of Castral Edge Professional 5w30 A5 but can't seem to find anywhere to buy.

[Xtreme]

I use the Castrol Edge 5W-30 in both the Freelander 2 Td4 and the Td5 Defender. Even though it is fairly expensive, I often pick it up at the local Auto One store at a discounted rate and figure that as I'm doing my own servicing, I can afford the best.

[ozzy.adam.9]

Cheers mate, there is an Auto One Store on the Sunshine Coast. Super cheap and autobahn don't stock the A5 mix.

[woko]

I use shell helix h7 5w30. I got on to this through shells netlube.

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[grod]

Nulon 5w 30 in the 10 litre container from Supercheap when its on special

[trumpycam]

Hi, We are about to pick up our new to us 2007 FL2 TD4 SE, with 145000km on the clock, was wondering as to a list of servicing points to do, to bring it to a known state of service to go on with from here ie engine G/box diffs etc. Also any tools I might need, already noted wrench spanner bleed pump and workshop manual. Will be doing most services myself, as a long term Land Rover owner, moving up from a classic R/R.
Thanks Joe

[bnicho]

Thanks to this guide I serviced my 2007 TD4 today with no real issues.

Boy did that ratchet spanner make it easy to get at the oil filter. What an excellent idea!

I tackled priming the fuel filter a little differently. I used a generic Draper syphon pump with squueeze bulb. Put the inlet hose in a fresh can of diesel and the output end onto the inlet of the new filter. Pumped fresh diesel into the filter inlet until it dribbled out the outlet fitting on the filter. Reconnected the hoses and it started up and ran on the second try. 😊

Cheers,
Bnicho.

[Bohica]

I attempted the Freelander 2 serive today. I managed to extract the oil using this. 12V Mini Pump Extractor Oil Fluid Moter Van Car Auto Efficient Change Kit | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Mini-Pump-Extractor-Oil-Fluid-Moter-Van-Car-Auto-Efficient-Change-Kit/273424456454'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
I'll use this on the Disco 2 TD5.
Replacing the air filter was a piece of cake. Like wise for the fuel filter. You tube has videos for these.
As for purging!! I used this. PK Tools Diesel Injection System Priming Pump 3/8" Connections Drain & Transfer 9313743710183 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PK-Tools-Diesel-Injection-System-Priming-Pump-3-8-Connections-Drain-Transfer/183752246815?epid=21028885913&hash=item2ac87cc61f:g:0XQAAOSwtNlcnT7D)
It is 3/8 not 10mm, however, buy some 10mm tube from Bunnings to allow a smooth run from the priming pump to the connectors. The guide at the start states puish until it gets hard. Mine did not get hard, I think the one way valve fails and pressure drops to zero. But it did bleed the system and the car did start.
I did not have a flexible 27mm ratchet spanner and was unable to remove the filter. I though the TD5 was hard to do. I have one on order and will fix this in late December.
As I was a bit knackered I did not replace the cabin filter, also fix in December

[tanay_1394]

I attempted the Freelander 2 serive today. I managed to extract the oil using this. 12V Mini Pump Extractor Oil Fluid Moter Van Car Auto Efficient Change Kit | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Mini-Pump-Extractor-Oil-Fluid-Moter-Van-Car-Auto-Efficient-Change-Kit/273424456454'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
I'll use this on the Disco 2 TD5.
Replacing the air filter was a piece of cake. Like wise for the fuel filter. You tube has videos for these.
As for purging!! I used this. PK Tools Diesel Injection System Priming Pump 3/8" Connections Drain & Transfer 9313743710183 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PK-Tools-Diesel-Injection-System-Priming-Pump-3-8-Connections-Drain-Transfer/183752246815?epid=21028885913&hash=item2ac87cc61f:g:0XQAAOSwtNlcnT7D)
It is 3/8 not 10mm, however, buy some 10mm tube from Bunnings to allow a smooth run from the priming pump to the connectors. The guide at the start states puish until it gets hard. Mine did not get hard, I think the one way valve fails and pressure drops to zero. But it did bleed the system and the car did start.
I did not have a flexible 27mm ratchet spanner and was unable to remove the filter. I though the TD5 was hard to do. I have one on order and will fix this in late December.
As I was a bit knackered I did not replace the cabin filter, also fix in December


Thanks for sharing your experience. I've ordered the service kit for my FL2 and plan to service over the December break.

Are the connectors/fittings that came with the priming pump compatible with the ends on the FL2 lines and filter or is that why you used the 10mm hose?

[Bohica]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I've ordered the service kit for my FL2 and plan to service over the December break.

Are the connectors/fittings that came with the priming pump compatible with the ends on the FL2 lines and filter or is that why you used the 10mm hose?

I used the 10mm hose so that the pipe did not get kinked as the bend is severe.

Make sure you get the flexible head ratchet spanner, I am still waiting for mine to arrive so that I can finally change the oil filter.

Like this one
Silverline Ratchet Spanner Flexible Head Wrench Combination Steel Metric 8-32mm | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverline-Ratchet-Spanner-Flexible-Head-Wrench-Combination-Steel-Metric-8-32mm/223708056098'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522425491233&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

[Xtreme]

I no longer have a Freelander 2 so if you want a once used 27mm Flexible Head Ratchet Spanner at a good price then PM me.

[tanay_1394]

I no longer have a Freelander 2 so if you want a once used 27mm Flexible Head Ratchet Spanner at a good price then PM me.

I've already got one of those, thanks for the offer!

[tanay_1394]

I used the 10mm hose so that the pipe did not get kinked as the bend is severe.

Make sure you get the flexible head ratchet spanner, I am still waiting for mine to arrive so that I can finally change the oil filter.

Like this one
Silverline Ratchet Spanner Flexible Head Wrench Combination Steel Metric 8-32mm | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverline-Ratchet-Spanner-Flexible-Head-Wrench-Combination-Steel-Metric-8-32mm/223708056098'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522425491233&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

Thanks! ordered one of those prime tools as well...

[Bohica]

Well, I juat changed the cabin filter. Tomorrow the oil filter.

[Bohica]

My arms and hands seem to be too thick to get the spanner on the oil filter. It would be nice if I could remove the thick black plastic trim, but it seems that you need to remove the front bumper assembly to remove it. I'll have another try.

Well no good, off to Hunter and Cuthills whne the Wuhan virus issue is over in Australia

[bnicho]

My arms and hands seem to be too thick to get the spanner on the oil filter. It would be nice if I could remove the thick black plastic trim, but it seems that you need to remove the front bumper assembly to remove it. I'll have another try.

Well no good, off to Hunter and Cuthills whne the Wuhan virus issue is over in Australia

Put the spanner up from below. You might have to experiment with different angpes on the spanner head until you get it slotted on.

Cheers,
Brett.

[Bohica]

Put the spanner up from below. You might have to experiment with different angpes on the spanner head until you get it slotted on.

Cheers,
Brett.

I tried, I tried, I tried. Each time I got close, the spanner head would move. 30 mins was enough for me. I couldn't even push the spanner head on with my other hand, like I would do normally, as I could not get the hand up there.

[trumpycam]

I find it better from the top with spanner going in from the right, then pulling filter out from bottom, never takes longer than a few minutes.

[Xtreme]

I find it better from the top with spanner going in from the right, then pulling filter out from bottom, never takes longer than a few minutes.
^^ x2
Same here. I recall that I changed the fuel filter at the same time but can't recall if I did the oil filter while the fuel filter was off which may have made access easier. However, I usually do one thing at a time so unlikely.

If your spanner is slipping off, you could try pushing it on with a piece of timber or similar.

[mrb505]

I find duct tape or electrical tape around the pivot helps, it restricts it pivoting too much
I find it easier to undo from underneath

[bnicho]

The head of my spanner has a screw to adjust the tension on the angled head. So you can set it at one angle and tight en it up to limit movement.

Maybe manuals and autos are different (mine is TD4 manual) but I've never been able to get to the oil filter from above. Although I've not tried with the fuel filter removed.

Regards,

[bnicho]

This shows how I do it. (No connection to the vid's owner though.)

Filter removal starts about 2:02

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta0QzT2Cq1M)

Cheers,