View Full Version : Double battery terminals??!!
Gullible
20th November 2012, 08:49 PM
I have some corrosion on my battery terminals so I popped down to the local Auto elec and he is having problems getting a replacement.
I phoned the local land rover dealer and he said the same as my manual, there should only be one cable coming from the +ve terminal.
This is what I've got, where do I get a replacement?
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/9266/img2951qa.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/img2951qa.jpg/)
OffTrack
20th November 2012, 09:03 PM
That is the standard D2 +ve battery terminal. Not sure what your local dealer was thinking?
As for where you get one, not too sure. They come on the replacement engine harness but I guess you don't want to be spending $500+
Have a look at car hifi vendors. They usually have a range of terminals with multiple take offs.
Blknight.aus
20th November 2012, 09:38 PM
my local battery world has had them in as special orders in the past, next time I need to get a kit from there I'll see what I can find, good luck getting the crimping dies for them.
Alex 110
20th November 2012, 10:06 PM
good luck getting the crimping dies for them.
In the past I've used a centre punch to crimp terminals larger than what I have the right tools for...
Just an idea:)
Fairsky
21st November 2012, 12:31 AM
I've found Battery World helpful in the past with another vehicle I have and they had the crimping tool.
Alternatively, if you get the battery terminal but are unable to crimp it, then I suggest you drill a small hole in the bottom of each terminal (where the cable goes in), solder the cable using a big soldering iron or a small butane torch, fit it in the terminal and fill with more solder until it runs out of the hole. Just don't add too much heat.
iPom
21st November 2012, 07:20 AM
I had the same problem with my D2. i cut off all my cables (+ve & -ve) and fitted new crimps. I also fitted new brass terminals which gives me the option of adding mores cables if needed (eg. winch, dual battery etc). From memory the crimps are 50 gauge. Seal with adhesive lined heatshrink and the jobs done. I have a pair of large crimps with adjustable dies so crimping was easy for me, but as others have said there are other methods.
I'll have a look in my shed and if I have some spare I'll gladly post them off along with heatshrink to suit....
Here's a picture....
http://https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/436.jpg
Dave
The Angry Chook
21st November 2012, 09:33 AM
I wouldn't worry about having standard battery terminals. Just get some universal ones and do what Dave has done above.
Gullible
21st November 2012, 05:17 PM
I had the same problem with my D2. i cut off all my cables (+ve & -ve) and fitted new crimps. I also fitted new brass terminals which gives me the option of adding mores cables if needed (eg. winch, dual battery etc). From memory the crimps are 50 gauge. Seal with adhesive lined heatshrink and the jobs done. I have a pair of large crimps with adjustable dies so crimping was easy for me, but as others have said there are other methods.
I'll have a look in my shed and if I have some spare I'll gladly post them off along with heatshrink to suit....
Here's a picture....
http://https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/436.jpg
Dave
Yes that was what I was coming down to.
What does 50 gauge crimps work out to in mm (or the B&S number)?
I'm starting to play with 12 volt camping so I think I'll get myself a good pair of crimpers, any idea what size I need for automotive work and a good make (I only want to buy one pair - ever)?
iPom
21st November 2012, 05:51 PM
50 gauge will fit 50mm2 cable. Crimps are numbered with wire size and hole size. I just been going over in my head when I did mine and you may need a 70 for the cables. I'm pretty sure a 50 was too tight now I'm thinking about it.
I know a 35 won't fit as I had to go and buy some.
I've just had a wee look in here....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/435.jpg
To see if I had any spare but I'm out of 50/70 at the mo....You will probably have to get them ordered in through one of 'Battery Wise/World outlets. I doubt they will have them on the shelf.
iPom
21st November 2012, 05:58 PM
As for crimpers....Well, you can buy a cheap pair from Trade Tools Direct or equivalent, but to be honest the dies/overall construction are poor.
Here you go..
TradeTools - JY06120-TRADETOOLS 650MM CRIMPING TOOL ADJUSTABLE HEAD 6-120MM SQ CAP (http://www.tradetools.com/products/JY06120)
I guess they would "do" for the home/occasional use. The professional ones are at least 7 or 8 times more expensive but the quality of the dies is paramount.
Dave
Gullible
21st November 2012, 08:36 PM
Cool, I'll look in to crimpers.
Next question; I have some corrosion around the end of the wires, any idea how I can clean that off before I crimp?
iPom
21st November 2012, 08:42 PM
No worries. You will need to cut the cable back to good copper to ensure good conductivety, be careful though, the cables are very short from where they originate from...
bee utey
21st November 2012, 09:14 PM
Boiling water dissolves the crust around the battery terminals really well. It must be only just off the boil or it won't work. Pour the jug/kettle slowly over the cable end so a good steady flow washes away the salts.
The Angry Chook
22nd November 2012, 01:05 AM
Boiling water with bicarb does a good job
iPom
22nd November 2012, 09:24 AM
Great advice there from Bee Utey & The Angry Chook. I would tackle that job first to give you a clean work area around your battery.
In my case, the wires (especially around the +ve cables) were corroded through quite badly where they entered into the factory crimp. In fact, I would say 15% of wire was missing around the circumference of the cables. I really had no choice but to cut back to good wire. I think I cut them back around 50mm to get to good cable, maybe a wee bit less. As I have said before they are very short lengths, so the measure twice, cut once adage comes into play.
After you have completed the job, give the terminals a dose of one the below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/400.jpg
Dave
iPom
22nd November 2012, 09:58 AM
And if do decide to start getting stuck into a tackling a few 12 Volt wiring projects on your D2, it is worthwhile buying some good tools.
A pair of Ratchet Crimps. Typically $40. These are branded 'Cabac'.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/392.jpg
A decent pair of Wire Strippers. Typically $5 to $100. The ones below are Snap On so expensive, but have been excellent. I have also had some good use from a $10 pair from Bunnings on smaller gauge wire....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/393.jpg
Here's a pair of small Blue Point ones. Typically $40, good for getting into small/tight areas.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/394.jpg
A good pair of 'Snips'. These are Sidchrome. Typically $50. They are cutting well after 5 years of work.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/395.jpg
Also, I like to use a flat edge pair of snips for trimming/cutting off cable ties. These cut the tie off flush with the cable tie ratchet block thingy. It saves slicing ones arms up when you have to get in there at a later stage.
These are Blue Point ones.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/396.jpg
A pair of Cable Cutters. Typically $30-$40. These are for cutting heavier gauge cable. A word of advice..Do not cut anything other than copper wire with these or you will ruin the cutting edge.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/397.jpg
And lastly Heavy Duty Crimps with adjustable dies. Typically $60 - $450+.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/398.jpg
Oh, and a decent soldering iron. I recommend a Weller Portasol Butane one. Typically $150. Others on here have great success with cheaper 204V ones, but I like the portability of the Weller and also the 'hot air' function for heatshrinking in confined spaces....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/399.jpg
Cheers Dave
Landover
22nd November 2012, 04:48 PM
So you should be able to get a professional looking job done using the tools above and the job to replace the terminal should only cost you around $700ish.:eek::eek::eek:
I love my tools and I'm a technician but trade but a lot of the tools above and be substituted with a good set of cutters, crimper and Stanley knife.
Or if just a one off job get someone to do it that is set up like Battery World.
iPom
22nd November 2012, 04:55 PM
I think you missed the point David....I spent over 5 years in electrical/mechanical fitout of power boats and I was just showing Gullible what I use. Just trying to give some input as he also said he was going to start 12 volt installs.
It was never about spending $700 to crimp a terminal...
Dave
iPom
22nd November 2012, 05:12 PM
Every other forum member who posted in this thread had a positive and helpful input which is what this forum is about. I take offence at your swipe at my advice.
Dave
Landover
22nd November 2012, 05:23 PM
Every other forum member who posted in this thread had a positive and helpful input which is what this forum is about. I take offence at your swipe at my advice.
Dave
Sorry you took offence Dave, that's the problem with the internet the wrong tone can be taken than what was meant. It was a bit of tongue and cheek, we need a sarcasm button.
I was also making the point that you don't need all the bells and whistles to do the job. I have all these tools but don't use them. Maybe I'm lazy but do everything with cutters.
OffTrack
22nd November 2012, 05:38 PM
And lastly Heavy Duty Crimps with adjustable dies. Typically $60 - $450+.
The cheap ones tend to butcher the crimp terminal. I've got a set I bought off ebay andwhile they do the job the dies tend to pinch the sides of the terminal so you end up with "wings" where the die halves contact.
A decent pair of ratchet crimpers are definitely a good investment. I have a pair that takes interchangeable crimp dies. They aren't cheap but you know that the crimps are going to be solid.
Ergonomic Supercrimp Tool - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TH1950)
The last set of dies I bought were for the AMP terminals used on much of the Td5 engine harness. It's pretty handy being able to swap dies, rather than having a multitude of crimpers.
iPom
22nd November 2012, 05:57 PM
Sorry you took offence Dave, that's the problem with the internet the wrong tone can be taken than what was meant. It was a bit of tongue and cheek, we need a sarcasm button.
I was also making the point that you don't need all the bells and whistles to do the job. I have all these tools but don't use them. Maybe I'm lazy but do everything with cutters.
Thanks for replying David...Maybe I take this forum too serious. I'm very passionate along with many others on here on being a LR owner. I try to be helpful and share whatever knowledge and experience I have with others who maybe need it.
Sure, one doesn't need all the bells and whistles as you say. But they sure do make a job easier. In my experience, the tools I posted are what I would use in undertaking an install, but then again it was my profession.
Dave
iPom
22nd November 2012, 06:02 PM
The cheap ones tend to butcher the crimp terminal. I've got a set I bought off ebay andwhile they do the job the dies tend to pinch the sides of the terminal so you end up with "wings" where the die halves contact.
A decent pair of ratchet crimpers are definitely a good investment. I have a pair that takes interchangeable crimp dies. They aren't cheap but you know that the crimps are going to be solid.
Ergonomic Supercrimp Tool - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TH1950)
The last set of dies I bought were for the AMP terminals used on much of the Td5 engine harness. It's pretty handy being able to swap dies, rather than having a multitude of crimpers.
Paul, you are correct re. the cheap HD crimps. I bought a pair a couple of years ago and they lasted maybe a couple of days. You will find you have to use a smaller die on one side to have any chance of crimping.
Dave
Gullible
24th November 2012, 04:50 PM
Thanks for all the help, I have a pair of cutters and crimpers on the way. I've also ordered cable and lugs from Traxide.com, so soon all will become undone.
Silly Question time:
Can I clean the battery terminals with bi-carb and hot water (to remove the acidic white powder) before I disconnect the battery and remove it from the car?
Landover
24th November 2012, 10:01 PM
Thanks for all the help, I have a pair of cutters and crimpers on the way. I've also ordered cable and lugs from Traxide.com, so soon all will become undone.
Silly Question time:
Can I clean the battery terminals with bi-carb and hot water (to remove the acidic white powder) before I disconnect the battery and remove it from the car?
Yes you can pour the hot water over the terminals while still connect to the battery. You are not going to short the terminal together by doing this. You will be doing one at a time. Just boil the kettle and take it out to the car. Just use water to start with and see how it goes. That all it will take most times.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.