Roadworthy Woes

[Lepdawg]

So i took my new disco into the local mechanic to get an idea as to what i'll need for a rwc. I didnt pay much for it so i was anticipating a fair few issues, here's what i've been told it will need:
- Damper Rod Bushes
- Panhard Rod Bushes
- Tie Rod Ends
- Front & Rear Brake Pads
- RH Rear Tail Globe
- Tailshaft Coupling
- Spotlights Not Working
- Rear Muffler Needs Replacing
- Wiper Blades
- Rear Electric Windows Not Working
- Oil Pressure Switch
- Transfer Case Mounts

Now i was told it would cost me 'around' $1000 to have that all sorted and less if i do some of it myself.
My questions:
1 - Does around $1000 sound like a reasonable price?
2 - For someone with limited mechanic knowledge (ie me) which things would be the easiest and most cost effective for me to do?

Vehicle Info - 1996 Landrover Discovery V8i, Auto, LPG, 185000kms

[THE BOOGER]

If you have absolutley no mech know how you could do
the
tail light
wiper blades
oil pressure switch
and probably the spot lights and windows

with a little bit of know how
you cant do the lot:D:D

hardest would be the bushes and tail shaft coupling but they are not that hard probably a couple of hundred at a mechanic if you supply the parts

[jazzaD1]

as stated earlier do the simple things yourself, take it to an exhaust shop to replace the muffler, or better yet, just replace it with some exhaust pipe, cheap and sounds great!

the transfer case mounts are about $30 each and there is 2 of them, however it is a bit of a hassle to change them yourself, especially if you aren't confident with tools or don't have a trolley jack etc.

It should be about an hour labour to change them at a mechanic, it doesn't take that long

brake pads are pretty simple to change

You should buy all the parts you need, and do all the work that you can yourself, then get the mechanic to do the rest, it should total alot less than $1000

[libertyts]

Agreed, however I reckon you should be able to do the tailshaft coupling yourself as well. Provided you have a torque wrench of some description. I did mine not long ago, it took a little bit of brute force to get the bugger undone.

Overall, if you know how to undo and tighten nuts and bolts, you have the skillset required. Oh, and, don't forget swearing it took a bit of that, especially when the knuckles copped a flogging!

[warren9981]

If you're going to replace the donut on the rear tailshaft, don't forget to change the bush in the middle of the tailshaft as well. A bit of a mongrel to get out, but doable with a slide hammer.

[Lepdawg]

Thanks for the replies. Glad to see it's not going to cost me as much as i initially thought.

And where would i find guides as to how to do all these things? Haynes? I happy to give most of them a shot, just dont want to stuff it up and require a tow to the mechanic

Think i'll be ordering all the parts through Roverlord, prices seem pretty good

[Chops]

The D1's are pretty easy to work on. What suburb are you in, someone may be able to help, even if it is only moral support?

As a point of interest, was there any mention about the air bag from him?
I've got no idea how true it is, but I have heard mention from mates etc that they should be changed at various intervals. However my mate had a light showing, which could have instigated the replacement. Is anyone here able to enlighten me on this?

[boofdtl]

Mate you get the parts and i will give you a hand to get it done if you like just give me a ring ....

[loanrangie]

Add your location so others can assist if possible, i'd just remove the spotties for the rwc and put them back on after and then get them working.

[Lepdawg]

Mate you get the parts and i will give you a hand to get it done if you like just give me a ring ....

Thanks for the offer mate.

I'll see how I go when the parts come in and possibly give you a ring and sort something out.


Add your location so others can assist if possible, i'd just remove the spotties for the rwc and put them back on after and then get them working.

I'm in Port Melbourne. And was also thinking pulling the spotties off would be the easiest option for now

[steveG]

Make sure you get a proper GKN branded rear coupling. There are some dodgy aftermarket ones out there.
Pretty sure I've still one that I bought as a spare and is surplus since I sold the car. I work at Altona North so easy to get it to you. PM me if you're interested.

I'd check with the RWC mechanic first if he'll accept complete removal of the rear muffler. I'm not 100% on the rules there but easy to make a phone call to check rather than have hassles during the re-check.

Steve

[Lepdawg]

Just got back from Exhaust World in North Melbourne. They fitted a replacement rear muffler for me (came with the disco) for $50.

Thought it was pretty good price.

Also put in an order for some parts from Roverlord.

And will be ordering the remainder (panhard rod bushes & damper bushes) through Roverparts.

Another question, anyone know a good place to get the transfer case mounts? Having a bit of trouble finding them


Make sure you get a proper GKN branded rear coupling. There are some dodgy aftermarket ones out there.
Pretty sure I've still one that I bought as a spare and is surplus since I sold the car. I work at Altona North so easy to get it to you. PM me if you're interested.

I'd check with the RWC mechanic first if he'll accept complete removal of the rear muffler. I'm not 100% on the rules there but easy to make a phone call to check rather than have hassles during the re-check.

Steve

I should've checked the thread before putting the order through haha. No matter. Thanks anyway mate.

[steveG]

Roverparts in Ballarat are good to deal with and usually ship express post so you have it next day. They take orders over the phone.

Land Rover Parts - ENGINE & GEARBOX MOUNTS - DISCOVERY 1 (http://www.roverparts.com.au/engine___gearbox_mounts___discovery_1?b=1)

Steve

[OffTrack]

Another question, anyone know a good place to get the transfer case mounts? Having a bit of trouble finding them

Give Graeme at BritCar in Nth Melbourne a call. He is a fantastic bloke, extremely helpful and won't rip you off.

British Car Components - spares and parts for British cars, Melbourne Victoria, Australia (http://www.britcar.com.au)

[isuzurover]

Rear windows: The problem will probably be a dry solder joint on the circuitboard. Have a search on here for instructions. It is a 5-minute job if you own a soldering iron.

Do yourself a favour and buy SuperPro bushes. Better and longer lasting than OEM, and a LOT easier to fit.

[Landover]

As said above the rear window could be a dry joint in the Window ECU or the child lock located in the centre of the switches might on. I have a couple of ECU's if required.

[loanrangie]

Stick with rubber bushes, poly are only easy to fit once you press the old ones out.

[lando]

Can't believe they knocked rear windows I'm an lvt and been doing Rwc for years and all windows don't need to work anymore. Only at least one must work, if you have a big stack your electrics don't work anyway.

[Vern]

Stick with rubber bushes.

Why?

[steveG]

Stick with rubber bushes, poly are only easy to fit once you press the old ones out.

True - poly ones would be an absolute bugger to fit if you didn't press the old ones out :D

Not really sure what you're trying to say there.....

Steve

[Lepdawg]

So i figured i'd give a bit of an update.

I've sorted out the following:
- Panhard Rod Bushes
- 2 out 4 Tie Rod Ends
- Tailshaflt Rubber Coupling
- Removed the Spotlights
- Replaced Rear Muffler
- Replaced Oil Pressure Switch
- Replaced Transfer Case Mounts
- Wiper Blades

Still to go:
- Damper Rod Bushes (Do i just replace the whole thing?)
- Front & Rear Brake Pads
- RH Rear and Centre Tail Golbe
- Rear Electric Windows

Figured i'd also add a pic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Roverlord off road spares]

Definitely go the genuine GKN, thats all we stock and sell, aftermarket ones are bothers.
cheers, Mario

[PeterM]

GKN?

With the question about the damper rod, if its the steering damper just change the whole unit.

[Nomad9]

Hi Chops,
I was under the impression the airbags had a ten year life span after that they needed replacement. I've taken discos over the pits 96, 97 and 98 and a 97 P38A here and I've never had them check the expiry of the airbags. I got pinged on door seals which surprised me and one inspection I had to remove the window tint it had bubbled on the back window.

[Chops]

Thanks Nomad, I was thinking this is normally the case, as in no one seems to be bothered checking.
On my last RW, I was told to replace a brakes rubber on the foot pedal, and fix the power steering leak :eek:
I bought a new pedal rubber, about $20 or something.
I steam cleaned the engine compartment, which it didn't need, it had been off road once, with no mud involved, and having not long replaced the water pump (V8 Auto), there was no oil around the engine at all.

On return for RW clearence, he didn't lift the bonnet, or even open the door.

I was not a happy camper. And it all cost me over $200. Total rip off :angrylock:

[Homestar]

It's like finding a good mechanic (if you need one). I have been using the same bloke to my RWC's for ages. While there are no short cuts any more, he is fair and consistent. Airbags are not a RW fail unless they have gone off. They will however check the airbag light on the dash to make sure it lights up when the ignition is first turned on, then goes off after it has done its check.

If in doubt, download the RWC requirements from the Vicroads website. It is very detailed and I have successfully argued points with my tester on occasion, and I keep a hard copy with me when I'm there to point things out.

Cheers - Gav.

[Lepdawg]

More than happy to take it to another mechanic to get checked out. It has already been to two so far and neither can agree on what it needs and what it doesn't. And as such i'm reluctant to take it back to either



With the question about the damper rod, if its the steering damper just change the whole unit.

Yeah it is the steering damper. Apparently it's leaking?

[dungarover]

It's like finding a good mechanic (if you need one). I have been using the same bloke to my RWC's for ages. While there are no short cuts any more, he is fair and consistent. Airbags are not a RW fail unless they have gone off. They will however check the airbag light on the dash to make sure it lights up when the ignition is first turned on, then goes off after it has done its check.

If in doubt, download the RWC requirements from the Vicroads website. It is very detailed and I have successfully argued points with my tester on occasion, and I keep a hard copy with me when I'm there to point things out.

Cheers - Gav.

Half the Disco 1's on the road have the SRS light on full-time. I have a couple of good computers here if the need arises but I usually pull the globe out (dunno if that'll work here in Vic, in QLD that's what I used to do).

Good idea about the requirements paperwork on hand. Some mechanics are dead set ****holes who'll root you up the clacker on everything :eek:

Trav

[Homestar]

This is what you need to go over (in Vic) - http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/7A14DDDC-3DF3-4ADD-9821-B8C7816777A3/0/VSI26web.pdf - you may be surprised about what is actually required and what some places try to make you repair. One example is the windscreen, I have been told several times my screen needs replacing because of a small crack or a chip, but it is clearly laid out where this is acceptable and where it is not.

Have a read and go over what they have told you is wrong and see how you go.

[Lepdawg]

This is what you need to go over (in Vic) - http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/7A14DDDC-3DF3-4ADD-9821-B8C7816777A3/0/VSI26web.pdf - you may be surprised about what is actually required and what some places try to make you repair. One example is the windscreen, I have been told several times my screen needs replacing because of a small crack or a chip, but it is clearly laid out where this is acceptable and where it is not.

Have a read and go over what they have told you is wrong and see how you go.

Thanks for the link mate. Had a read through it the other day and doesn't mention any window has to work other than the drivers window so i'm not going to rush to fix the two rears.

Also one of the mechanics mentioned changing the tyres but after reading the document i can only assume he was drunk at the time.

The final few parts arrived the other day so hoping to have this bad boy on the road by the end of the month :)

Also, anyone care to suggest a half decent mechanic to get the RWC done at? I'm in south melbourne but most mechanics around here are far too pricey for my liking.

[jazzaD1]

what about the one that carried out the initial rwc test?

[Homestar]

Thanks for the link mate. Had a read through it the other day and doesn't mention any window has to work other than the drivers window so i'm not going to rush to fix the two rears.

Also one of the mechanics mentioned changing the tyres but after reading the document i can only assume he was drunk at the time.

The final few parts arrived the other day so hoping to have this bad boy on the road by the end of the month :)

Also, anyone care to suggest a half decent mechanic to get the RWC done at? I'm in south melbourne but most mechanics around here are far too pricey for my liking.

Can't recommend anyone near, but make sure you stick to your guns whoever does it. If you feel they pick on something that isn't in the document, ask them to explain why they knocked it back, and if they can't explain it as per the document, tell them you will report them to Vicroads - they even have a dispute resolution procedure.

You won't make any new friends doing this, but you will get a fair assessment on the safety items that matter, and an easier RWC. They generally pick on less stuff if they know you know your stuff...:D

Let us know how it pans out.

[clubagreenie]

Light globes you can do, just need a #2 phillips head screwdriver.
Brake Pads, just need a pair of pliers and large screwdriver (plus jack and wheel brace but that goes without saying)
Damper rod bushes (assuming it's steering damper), couple of spanners to remove, they aren't pressed in by memory. Just fit poly here, it'll make the steering fell better, as would the panhard rod with poly. Others though I would keep rubber.
Windows, could also be the relay, the fronts have a larger relay than the rear so it goes before the front despite the front being used more.

Does Les Richmond do inspections? Should do since they also have a lot of mods to fit that are engineered. At least a LR specialist