What is an acceptable temp guage reading

[dave_gordon]

Hi there,
I have a 1988 Defender with a replacement 300TDI engine, and I have had an aftermarket air conditioning unit fitted.

Whilst traveling normally at 100Km/h with the air conditioning on my temp guage is just inside the white area (see attached photo).

Over the weekend I was towing a 2000kg caravan at a slightly lower speed on 80Km/h with the air conditioning on and the needle went off the white and just tipped into the black area (but not into the red).

My immediate reaction was to turn off the air conditioning and lower the speed and fortunately the temperature gauge did not creep any higher.

Did I do the right thing and as a separate note I noticed that the engine seemed to be whirring, and almost as if it was being held back. I'm new to the caravan but know that it was standing for at least a year and I did not think the tyres need changing, but doubt whether this should have had a effect on the temperature.

I suppose my hope is that this is something simply like the temperature gauge needs changing but wanted the opinion of those in the know.

Many thanks in advance
David Gordon

[isuzutoo-eh]

My One Ten (with a different engine mind you) reads a bit less than midway at worst, usually about a third of the white from the left, but remember the gauge could be as individual as the car is...
Assuming your gauge is accurate, I would be concerned that yours is running too hot.
If you haven't done so recently, it would be a good idea to flush your radiator or even better, get it rodded at a radiator shop.

[isuzurover]

Landrover temperature guages are generally crap, and commonly fail (especially on 80's 110s). The best thing you can do is swap to a VDO (or similar) guage and sender which has actual degree readings, rather than vague colour bars.

But what you did is correct. If the temp climbs too high while towing (etc) you should turn off AC and turn the heater on with the fan on full (as uncomfortable as the latter may be).

FWIW, mine (with isuzu) used to sit about midway, until the guage died and it moved to the black (but at the same temperature). After swapping to a VDO setup, the temp normally sits exactly on the thermostat opening temperature.

[weeds]

the OME gauge is only an indication of the temp.......hard to tell the exact temp

i ditched mine and fitted a VDO mechanial temp gauge which gives you a way better indication of your water temps

around town it sits around 88-90
on the hi-way a bit above 90
up hills ft to the floor 90-95
towing camper trailer up hills foot to the floor 90-100

way easier to manage water temp with a graduated temp gauge

[rainman]

Hello David,

I have had two 300Tdi Defenders with what looks like a slightly newer version of your temperature gauge. They both sat pretty much dead on half way all of the time. The one in my current 130 did sometimes go slightly above half on a long climb (and would then stick there) but that engine has had a fair bit of modifying and tweaking. The standard gauges are notoriously useless really. I've just replaced mine with a VDO mechanical gauge which apart from being more accurate, eliminates any potential electrical issues such as poor earthing. In normal driving conditions a 300Tdi sits between about 87 and 90 degrees.

The VDO kit part number is 180 077 022 and contains everything you need to bolt straight into a 300Tdi.

James.

[wmd]

Oops

[wmd]

Howdy
Might be worth fitting a vdo temp gauge so you can see the actual temp .
The factory gauge won't move until its over 100degrees ( I think that's correct)

With my 300tdi the ac brings the operating temp up about 7 degrees .

As a reference point ,on a 40 degree day with ac on ,it sits on 97degrees at 100km ( new radiator 50/50 mix coolant)

Cheers

[dave_gordon]

Many, many thanks to everyone who responded.

I've now ordered the part but does anyone know of an online 'how to' instructions with photo's (or even a video) if possible.

Can someone also confirm whether I need an additional 300TDI Temperature Adapter (see http://www.landyonlineretail.co.za/shop/shop-online-now.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.v3.tpl&product_id=121&category_id=26) or whether the 180-077-022 has another way of connecting.

Kind regards
Dave

[rainman]

Hi Dave,

It doesn't. I only installed mine about three weeks ago. You remove the original sender unit from the front right corner of the block and simply screw in the VDO one.

As far as the complete installation goes, it's really quite easy. You'll need to remove the instrument cluster (4 screws, unplug about 4 or 5 wiring harnesses, and the speedo cable), swap the new gauge for the old one, find a suitable hole to feed the sender though (I drilled another hole in the plastic plate that the speed cable runs through), and then just feed the sender the cleanest way down the right side of the engine to the front. The 1600mm sender pipe is plenty long enough to leave some excess inside the dash for easy removal of the instrument cluster in the future.

James.

[dave_gordon]

Many thanks James.

I'm new to this mechanical stuff but will give it a try.

Kind regards
Dave

[rainman]

Sorry, you also need to wire in the gauge light. Exactly how particular you want to get with this is up to you. You could just simply jumper off the other gauge light wires (red wire I think). If your existing gauge lights are green, one thing you might want to get hold of is a green bulb cover, commonly referred to as a "condom" because that's what they're like, just smaller. The place you're getting the gauge from might have them, but you might find them places like Autobarn also. If you're on the southside, Otto Instruments at Salisbury have them.

James.

[rainman]

Oh (yeah - getting my post count up doing this ;)), when you remove the original sender, coolant will start trickling out so have the brass sleeve from the end of the VDO sender unit in hand ready to screw straight in. It's a tapered fine thread so as it tightens it seals off. Don't do it up too tight; probably be best to err on the side of caution and if it leaks just nip it up a little more. Just check it after your first drive.

James.

[camel_landy]

Before you get too carried away with throwing lots of money at the problem, just check your earth connection!!!

Poor earthing on the engine will cause the temp gauge to do exactly what you described. The engine gets its earth from the rear of the transfer casing and if you have a new engine, chances are that the connection made through the various casings is now marginal at best.

Run an earth strap from the -ve on the battery to the block and not only will you find that it solves your 'overheating' but your car will probably start better when hot too. ;)

M

[mudder110]

hi my 98 110 300tdi with 320000ks vdo gauge sits on 80 cruising climbing it may move up slitley
but i do have a new radiater with a extra cooling row i run a v8 thermostat
cheers

[dave_gordon]

I have no fitted the VDO temp gauge and with a/c on and towing approximately 2.5 tonne caravan it reads around 95 doing 50 kph, but on a steep hills it sometimes reaches 100-102 degrees.

Is this too high a temp and would you recommend that I get the radiator rodded?

N.B. Normal around town with a/c/ and unladen it's below 88 degrees.

Kind regards
Dave

[isuzurover]

I have no fitted the VDO temp gauge and with a/c on and towing approximately 2.5 tonne caravan it reads around 95 doing 50 kph, but on a steep hills it sometimes reaches 100-102 degrees.

Is this too high a temp and would you recommend that I get the radiator rodded?

N.B. Normal around town with a/c/ and unladen it's below 88 degrees.

Kind regards
Dave

Temps sound OK.

[uninformed]

@ camal Landy, the original fitment LR gauge in this vinatge vehicle (1998) are known to be horrible POS even when everything is in good working order. They do not move off the "normal" postion until temp has risen a min of 7c.....no bloody good in this country mate. While a negitive strap may help overheating in a country that sees 4 sunny days a year, but until you know real heat you wont know real over heating...

Dave, its all a matter of what has been done and when??? how often was your cooling system serviced etc. The cooling system in these 300Tdi's is marginal at best... you need to stay ontop of them.

Your rad should be rodded every time you do a timing belt (80,000km) your coolant should be flushed properly and replaced every 12 months. Ovbious things like check for leaks etc and old dodgy hoses..

You can buy a tridon T/Stat that cracks a few degrees earlier. I have also cut a hole in my left guard (same position as the intake on the right guard) and fitted a grill over it....this helps the hot air escape the engine bay (definite part of the cooling problems)

[dave_gordon]

When the temperature started to exceed 100 degrees on the outbound journey my wife commented that it was terribly warms under her seat to the point whereby she could not touch the metal.

On the return journey we decided to keep the front vents under the windscreen open to bring in more air and circulate the cool air from the air conditioned. I appreciate this may have made the a/c word harder but it was notably cooler under my wife's seat on the way home, and the temp gauge did not spike any more than on the outbound journey.

Uniformed mentioned that they 'cut a hole in my left guard (same position as the intake on the right guard) and fitted a grill over it....this helps the hot air escape the engine bay (definite part of the cooling problems)'

Can anyone extend on what to do (i.e. a YouTube video) as I interested in anything obvious to try reduce the heat in the engine bay.

Many thanks once again for all your help and assistance.

Regards
Dave

[rainman]

Hi Dave,

I doubt there's a YouTube video on it. You just need to know how to use a holesaw and/or grinder with confidence :). Here's a thread with some pictures of Serg's (uninformed) vent :o.

Defender Engine Bay Heat - LH guard vent (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144905-defender-engine-bay-heat-lh-guard-vent.html)

It's on my list of things to do.

James.

[Guzziman]

The standard gauge is crap.
Jusy did 5000kms towing 2.5 tonnes through the Great Dividing Range & Snowies/high country in the recent heatwave.
Vehicle is an 06 TD5 with a chip & a few other mild mods, radiator & cooling system regularly serviced & coolant just been flushed/replaced.
Standard gauge stayed the same throughout the trip irrespective of the climb or ambient outside temperature. I resorted to touching different pieces of metal in the cab to test the temperature. If the handbrake & seat runners got too hot to touch the running temp was hot. If the second handbrake couldn't put her feet in the footwell it was bloody hot.
Going up Moombi hills outside of Tamworth in 40 deg heat with 5 tonnes all up I chose discretion over valour & stopped midway (the accelerator was getting too hot to touch with bare feet & the rubber is still in place). I didn't want to risk "melting" the turbo or blowing the engine.
I used to drive semi's and rely on accurate instruments. I'd love to know what the temps (inc diffs were doing). Looking like a few belated Chrissie presents on the list for the Defender :)

[Sitec]

Have a 99 Defender 130. Height of summer 40+ outside and it always sits just below the ctr of the gauge. As said b4 these gauges are just a guide. Look on EBay for the didgi gauges that bolt to the rear of the block (where the most heat is). With this mounted along side your original gauge you'll b surprised by the conflicting info from them... 80-100 is normal, up above 105/110 gettin warm. With the didgy gauge you can drive to it. Some also have an alarm which you can set to your preferred max. Good luck!

[uninformed]

no idea on the gauge, but word on the street is that the Td5's are much better in the cooling department

[HangOver]

I had a couple of RRC's the temp gauge in both are awful.
"Normal" ie 20 to 12 position is between about 45oC & 105oC.
If you ever go in the red in a Landy I would suggest stopping very quickly or better to reduce load, drive about 60-80kph. If needed as previously said air-con off heater on.
BTW if you are traveling at speed on a sealed road and your engine gets hot you have a problem.

I digress...... try the engine watchdog, very acurate, quick to change and easy to fit; also saved my block earlier this year when a hose let go.