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Hoges
1st December 2012, 11:28 PM
Got the heads back in place, new cam/lifters/rockers etc etc and finally got the courage to fire it up... maintained 2200rpm for 20 mins then shut it down. Next day took it to airport to collect SWMBO ... about 40km return trip using the Brisbane Inner City Bypass and the new tunnel, maintaining 2200-3000 rpm as additional running in. Non-stop driving at a steady speed. This afternoon I took it out for another run in the off peak (5 cars in the tunnel...no wonder they're losing $ ).

The reason for going via the tunnel is that it is a very quiet road surface...
I want to nail a pinging/rattle sound which appears to be more noticeable in top gear under gentle load at 1500-1700 rpm or higher. When I lift off the throttle it ceases. If I accelerate in 3rd, it seems to disappear then return when cruising in top gear.

Reminds me of a cable rattle although the pinging sound is higher pitched. I'm sensitive to pinging under load but have never heard it before on this engine...

It occurred to me that the knock sensors might somehow be faulty but I doubt it. The noise/resonance/rattle seems to be in sync with road speed. At one stage when I gave it a gentle burst in second there was a momentary metallic squeal/scraping noise which I could not replicate later.

The sound is apparent from the passenger footwell .

Am also wondering about

(a) a shot catalytic converter on passenger side which for some reason is missing its heat shield (hasn't had one since I've owned it)..

(b) handbrake drum (although it holds well on hills)

(c) flex plate ...but the auto is very smooth

(d) U joints are only 10k km old and well maintained .no slack.

This has been getting more noticeable for the past 12m.

Any thoughts ?

As for the engine: b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l!:D Valve train now very quiet at idle and no pesky bubbles in the coolant overflow tank!

Keithy P38
2nd December 2012, 08:36 PM
Good to hear mate!

Can't help with your rattle though, hope you get all over it!

PeterAllen
3rd December 2012, 07:25 AM
Well dones Hoges. Glad to hear the engine rebuild was a success.
Would be interested to hear what cam,valves and lifters and other bits and pieces you ended up using.
Is your new noise only audible when the car is moving or can you hear it when the car is stationary? Sounds exhaust related. rusted baffles maybe.

benji
5th December 2012, 08:45 AM
It's not the first sounds of a stretched transfer case chain; Is there any slack in the box? A mates dad noticed a few alloy flakes in the transfer case oil when it first started making noises.

Not to hijack the thread, but I too would be interested in knowing what parts you used, and wether you replaced the cam bearings.

Hoges
5th December 2012, 11:02 AM
The T/F case 'seems' to be OK. There was no silver flakes etc when I replaced the oil recently and no "machine gun" rattle (chain jumping) when it's under heavy load.

WRT the head gasket replacement, I had the heads planed and valves refaced / seats cut. Springs were OK both for length and strength. New stem seals on inlets only. Used an Elring VRS gasket set (composites) but used a Payen metal gasket with a very thin smear of locktite 518 for the valley. ARP head stud kit which they have fairly recently added to their product line for the 4.0/4.6 Rover V8. New standard cam and steel (one piece) rocker arms and shafts. Springs and pedestals were quite OK. Pushrods were in good shape. Simply gave them a "polish" with a piece of oil soaked 2000 wet and dry. Had a good look at the cam bearings with mirror etc and they appeared to be in good nick. Also, I had no facilities for removing the engine block... :( If I had, then the job would still be going and I'd probably need a second mortgage... for all the new parts ... I also installed a new timing chain, wheel and sprocket. Woodruff keys were quite serviceable.

New plugs / leads (NGK 8mm) /coil blocks (2) and camshaft sensor and water pump. I had these in the spares kit so replaced them anyway while I had easy access.