Tune Up

[OlliesLRover]

Disco1 1994 V8i Auto

Recently had the plugs, plug leads, dist cap, rotor button, fuel filter changed and had the timing checked plus I also cleaned the MAS.

Q. What else is there to a tune up, the car runs pretty well, maybe a bit rich but don't want to spend $ on a tune up if the above is pretty much it.

Regards
Rich

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Disco1 1994 V8i Auto

Recently had the plugs, plug leads, dist cap, rotor button, fuel filter changed and had the timing checked plus I also cleaned the MAS.

Q. What else is there to a tune up, the car runs pretty well, maybe a bit rich but don't want to spend $ on a tune up if the above is pretty much it.

Regards
Rich
youv'e just about covered it, maybe replace airfilter if dirty. With the dissy rotor did you use the genuine lucas part? other makes like Bosch or generic tend to fail earlier . You could remove the IAC stepper motor and give it a spray with carby cleaner as well as the hole it fits into. Carbon builds up and can affect it's proper function.
Richness could be a maf causing it or a leaking injector. Since it is running with an ECU there is much you can do to tune one

[OlliesLRover]

youv'e just about covered it, maybe replace airfilter if dirty. With the dissy rotor did you use the genuine lucas part? other makes like Bosch or generic tend to fail earlier . You could remove the IAC stepper motor and give it a spray with carby cleaner as well as the hole it fits into. Carbon builds up and can affect it's proper function.
Richness could be a maf causing it or a leaking injector. Since it is running with an ECU there is much you can do to tune one

Hi mate, done the air filter with last service ( all these items have been changed/done in the last 1000klm), just had a look at the L/Rover invoice not sure if they are Lucas or not, here are the numbers:
Rotor Button: STC1857
Dizzy Cap: STC8368
Ignition Lead Set: RTC6551

Note: I put the new spark plugs in & just replaced them with the same type NGK BP5ES?????.

Will clean the IAC stepper motor tomorrow, will CRC MAF sensor cleaner do the trick??.

You said:
Richness could be a maf causing it or a leaking injector. Since it is running with an ECU there is much you can do to tune one.

Are you saying that the MAF is/canbe a seperate tune up compared to a gereral tuneup.

I have been checking the fuel per klm by topping it up every 100klm and am averaging around 22ltr per 100klm, I wouldn't call it stop/start city driving as I live in Syd Western Subs, so I reckon I should get better than that even as a worst case senario.

Will tuning the MAF ECU thingy help with fuel economy.

Regards
Rich

[Roverlord off road spares]

The genuine lucas rotors have LUCAS on the top of the rotor button.
Mafs have a set screw on the side, but unless you have specialised exhaust analyiser then I wouldn't play with it.
20 litres per 100kms is about average around town

[OlliesLRover]

You could remove the IAC stepper motor and give it a spray with carby cleaner as well as the hole it fits into. Carbon builds up and can affect it's proper function.

I removed and cleaned the IAC stepper motor, it was very dirty & had heaps of carbon build up as well, also cleaned the hole.

I didn't need a spanner to loosen it and found the cork?? washer has virtually worn away, so I will need to try to get another one from some where.

Interestingly the disco has always idled ok, start it up and it revs to just over 1000rpm and a couple of minutes later it drops to just under 1000rpm and stays constant at that when idling.

Regards
Rich

[OlliesLRover]

Mafs have a set screw on the side, but unless you have specialised exhaust analyiser then I wouldn't play with it.
20 litres per 100kms is about average around town

Thanks for that, I spoke to the L/Rover mechanic today and he suggested I get the injectors cleaned first, then work from there re tuning the MAF.

Sort of proves my point:
20 litres per 100kms is about average around town (Ingleburn).

That would/could equate to 25ltr or more in city (Sydney) driving :confused:.

Regards
Rich

[Tank]

Buy some gasket material and make your own gasket if you can't buy an original, I am yet to find the IAC valve body done up tight, make sure you nip it up tight and that the 2 hoses have no splits, Regards Frank.

[OlliesLRover]

Buy some gasket material and make your own gasket if you can't buy an original, I am yet to find the IAC valve body done up tight, make sure you nip it up tight and that the 2 hoses have no splits, Regards Frank.

Ta, will do.

I thought the IAC stepper motor was just about idling but since I cleaned it, the car seems to have more omph especially when taking off at lights ect.

Regards
Rich

[Tank]

Ta, will do.

I thought the IAC stepper motor was just about idling but since I cleaned it, the car seems to have more omph especially when taking off at lights ect.

Regards
Rich
It also supplies the "Vacuum" for the fuel regulator, so if it is leaking, because of not being done up tight it will cause problems, Regards Frank.

[OlliesLRover]

Buy some gasket material and make your own gasket if you can't buy an original,
Regards Frank.

The origional looks like a cork washer (see pic) and they want $20+ for a sheet.

I don't mind paying that if there is no other option, but I was wondering if there is a different option to cork that I could use.

ps: Just went out & took pics and to be honest I am not sure if it is made of cork or not, It's hard to tell but it is bendy and very brittle with a split in it.

ps, ps: just checked a couple of other forums via google and they call it a fibre washer

Regards
Rich

[Tank]

The alloy body that the valve fits into and is bolted to the plenum with 3 allen bolts should have a gasket to seal it against the back of the plenum, that is the gasket I was referring to, fibre washes can be bought from any spares shop, as can gasket paper, Regards Frank.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

I never bothered with a new gasket, just use a smear of RTV on the thread and screw it back in.

[OlliesLRover]

I never bothered with a new gasket, just use a smear of RTV on the thread and screw it back in.

What channel is RTV on :wasntme:.

If I go that way won't the stepper motor need to be reset - if so is it key on - key off - key on - key off, after waiting a few seconds between each on/off.

If you listen carefully, is that the stepper motor you can hear initalizing when you first turn the key on.

Regards
Rich

[PhilipA]

No the sound you hear is the fuel pump pressurising the rail.
The stepper opens fully as you turn off.
That is why the engine revs up as you start and then slows to the correct idle, maybe with a couple of bounces .
No resets are required.
Regards Philip A

[OlliesLRover]

No the sound you hear is the fuel pump pressurising the rail.
The stepper opens fully as you turn off.
That is why the engine revs up as you start and then slows to the correct idle, maybe with a couple of bounces .
No resets are required.
Regards Philip A

Thanks for that info,

Does the stepper look as though it has opened fully (see pic) or is it supposed to sit flush with the base.

If I wanted to clean the stepper in the extended position (closed) could I after removing it, just re-attach the plug and turn the key on, or is it not necessary to go that far to clean it.

Regards
Rich

[PhilipA]

This I learned from painful experience. After I broke one I pulled it apart to see how it worked.
Do NOT try to screw out or pull out the stepper cone from the base.
The stepper photo you show is fully retracted, and this is the correct "resting " position. ( when I said 'opened" maybe I should have said "retracted" as by retracting , it opens the flow of air past the cone and seat)
Inside the stepper there is a stepper motor (surprise) that turns according to Binary signals from the ECU. The motor armature turns and the cone has a rack /thread on the shaft which screws the rack in and out. The rack has a keyway to stop it turning with the motor so it goes in and out.
if you try to pull out the cone, it will break the keyway. You cannot wind it by applying a voltage either.

You can pull the plug while the engine is running, and this may expose some of the shaft, but really if the stepper is so slow that it cannot control idle within a few rev oscillations , then it is time for a new stepper. There are many on Ebay at reasonable prices as these were used in many Chevrolet models.
Regards Philip A

[OlliesLRover]

This I learned from painful experience. After I broke one I pulled it apart to see how it worked.
Do NOT try to screw out or pull out the stepper cone from the base.
The stepper photo you show is fully retracted, and this is the correct "resting " position. ( when I said 'opened" maybe I should have said "retracted" as by retracting , it opens the flow of air past the cone and seat)
Inside the stepper there is a stepper motor (surprise) that turns according to Binary signals from the ECU. The motor armature turns and the cone has a rack /thread on the shaft which screws the rack in and out. The rack has a keyway to stop it turning with the motor so it goes in and out.
if you try to pull out the cone, it will break the keyway. You cannot wind it by applying a voltage either.

You can pull the plug while the engine is running, and this may expose some of the shaft, but really if the stepper is so slow that it cannot control idle within a few rev oscillations , then it is time for a new stepper. There are many on Ebay at reasonable prices as these were used in many Chevrolet models.
Regards Philip A

Thanks mate,

No I won't play around with it any more as I am happy with it's performance, it's more that I am the inquisitive type and like to fiddle to the stage of getting into trouble, but I am now learning to ask questions before trouble strikes.

Pity I didn't learn to do it 40 odd years ago:mad:

Ps: I found some fibre washers in Bunnings tap section that done the job.

Regards
Rich