View Full Version : Heat from Heater core continuously??
waltsd
4th December 2012, 04:26 PM
Just had the Heater core replaced after fitting a TX valve for air-conditioning. Now there is Hot air always coming out from under the drivers dash footwell, with air-con on or not?? I have looked under the drivers side and feels like air is coming out from where the Heater core is located?? Is that supposed to be sealed when put in?? Has anyone replaced the heater core and know what they have done wrong?? or is there a remedy?? (yes posted thread similar, but now realise its the Heater core problem)
'95 300TDI - I now know that is doesn't have a valve to turn the heater coolant off, but this is TOO HOT to handle in Summer!
Thanks
Blknight.aus
4th December 2012, 04:32 PM
you havent sealed it up properly or you have the flaps set up on the cables incorrectly.
waltsd
4th December 2012, 06:04 PM
Can you seal it up in situ? how? I didn't do the work myself, thats how it came back from the mechanic?? Not happy!
Spel1
5th December 2012, 10:05 AM
Replacement heater cores don't come with sealing foam around them. Its possible your mechanic did not replace the foam, allowing hot air to blow out the side (heater cores have a continuous coolant flow). I used ordinary door draft seal foam for mine before installing. It is possible to access the open side of the core (drivers side) if you remove the lower dash panels and a couple of bracing struts. It should be possible to push a foam seal around the core in while it is in place. If there already is foam in place, it will be the control flaps as Dave says. However, after paying all that money, it should be the mechanic's job.
waltsd
5th December 2012, 10:51 AM
Thanks! Yes, they should fix it, but will they know how!! and therefore I will be stuck again!! Taken it back today to get them to look at it! 2nd time back!!
That's stupid not to supply the foam if it should have it?? It's also not on the RAVE workshop manual??
Wish I had a landrover mechanic near me which would know better?? But I took it their for the air-conditioning TX valve originally as they do mechanical, electric, and air-conditioning repairs!!
Thanks again, at least I may know how to fiix it I really have to myself!!
waltsd
9th December 2012, 10:23 PM
Update! I've been screwed and they won't fix it as its an "old car" and "we didn't touch that part story??". In the end I either have to take legal action or put up with it!!
But I have solved the heat problem for the time being by connecting the 2 heater hoses together. Now nice and cold, which I suppose I can put up with for the odd day I may want a little heat from the heater??
Has anyone had a problem by doing this??
Uglitom
22nd December 2012, 08:04 PM
Why not have a look online for a tap from from another car thats the same hose diameter -then you can just turn it on for winter and off again for summer.
waltsd
23rd December 2012, 12:49 AM
Thanks, was thinking that would be the way to go but hadn't been able to find a tap yet that is not vacum operated from other's I have seen at the auto shops?? Any thoughts on place to get one would be appreciated. Will probably try harder as winter gets closer, or come up with some plan?? Definately nice having the cold air now though, as its going to be 40 ish over xmas period in Perth!!
Blknight.aus
23rd December 2012, 11:05 AM
I might know a trick or 3, Im in perth ATM, send me a PM if you're going to be NOR and I'll see if I can knock a small hole in my schedule for you.
was it a foaming problem or an adjustment problem?
bee utey
23rd December 2012, 11:39 AM
Thanks, was thinking that would be the way to go but hadn't been able to find a tap yet that is not vacum operated from other's I have seen at the auto shops?? Any thoughts on place to get one would be appreciated. Will probably try harder as winter gets closer, or come up with some plan?? Definately nice having the cold air now though, as its going to be 40 ish over xmas period in Perth!!
Buy a 4 port heater valve, remove the vacuum actuator, operate by cable or twist of wire. Easy. VS-VY Commodore V6 uses a 16mm version, some Fords use a 19mm version. The 4 port valve ensures constant flow through that circuit regardless of position, keeps engine block/head temp even.
Failing that use vacuum from the brake booster area, and operate the heater valve through a vacuum solenoid and a switch or microswitch on the heater controls. XD-XF Falcons used to have an ideal vacuum changeover valve on their heater box to turn off the heater valve. Hard to find these days I suspect.
Another trick is to just wrap a cable tie around the vacuum heater valve for now, remove it in winter.
waltsd
23rd December 2012, 11:21 PM
I might know a trick or 3, Im in perth ATM, send me a PM if you're going to be NOR and I'll see if I can knock a small hole in my schedule for you.
was it a foaming problem or an adjustment problem?
Thanx for the offer of help while in Perth. I think the issue is that the heater core did not have any foam put around it on installation, hence heat coming out drivers footwell. Unfortunately too busy with xmas period to have any time to fiddle, then away for end of december and January down south Camping with the family!! Will attempt to put some foam around it at some point, plus or minus the tap idea
waltsd
23rd December 2012, 11:25 PM
I definatly like the idea of the cable tie on the vacum line. Will try that as it sounds simple and not too much mucking around!:) That's if I cant get access to put foam around the heater core at some stage! Thanks for all the replies, I now am armed with some information to sort out this very annoying issue for the long term! THANX
steelo
15th April 2013, 10:04 PM
Buy a 4 port heater valve, remove the vacuum actuator, operate by cable or twist of wire. Easy. VS-VY Commodore V6 uses a 16mm version, some Fords use a 19mm version. The 4 port valve ensures constant flow through that circuit regardless of position, keeps engine block/head temp even.
Failing that use vacuum from the brake booster area, and operate the heater valve through a vacuum solenoid and a switch or microswitch on the heater controls. XD-XF Falcons used to have an ideal vacuum changeover valve on their heater box to turn off the heater valve. Hard to find these days I suspect.
Another trick is to just wrap a cable tie around the vacuum heater valve for now, remove it in winter.
Old old post I know but that's what you get when you use "search" LOL.
I have same sort of prob, constant hot air coming out of all vents since I bought it, I also disconnected heater hoses but read on a post that water flow through those hose's/heater is a plus for engine cooling.
Is that right?
I live in Hervey Bay so a heater is not a necessity except for windscreen demisting (it does get humid) or when we visit down south, the tap idea sounds interesting tough but I think it there would have to be a "H" shaped metal pipe with the taps on the heater side of the horizontal bar????
If it's the control gate not closing properly how easy is that to fix?
bee utey
15th April 2013, 10:18 PM
Old old post I know but that's what you get when you use "search" LOL.
I have same sort of prob, constant hot air coming out of all vents since I bought it, I also disconnected heater hoses but read on a post that water flow through those hose's/heater is a plus for engine cooling.
Is that right?
I live in Hervey Bay so a heater is not a necessity except for windscreen demisting (it does get humid) or when we visit down south, the tap idea sounds interesting tough but I think it there would have to be a "H" shaped metal pipe with the taps on the heater side of the horizontal bar????
If it's the control gate not closing properly how easy is that to fix?
Don't know anything about the insides of the heater box but the 4 port valve has (as you'd expect) four hose connections, two in and two out. There are usually arrows marked on the tap body. The regulator inside the valve flips over to redirect flow from the heater to a loop return.
Here's one on a P76, allows water flow to the gas converter with the heater off:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
steelo
15th April 2013, 10:30 PM
Don't know anything about the insides of the heater box but the 4 port valve has (as you'd expect) four hose connections, two in and two out. There are usually arrows marked on the tap body. The regulator inside the valve flips over to redirect flow from the heater to a loop return.
Here's one on a P76, allows water flow to the gas converter with the heater off:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
P76, haven't heard that name for a long long time, put a 44 gallon drum in the boot LOL.
Where do you think I could get a look at these valves, Repco?
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