rivnuts vs poprivets for checkerplate

[Samblers]

Just received my checkerplate from Justin - looks the goods.

For the installation on the wingtops and bonnet, just wondering whether i should be using the rivnuts included or maybe poprivets? Found this thread here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/67408-nutserts-rivnuts-without-tool-pics.html).

The rivnuts look a little painful to install without the tool and if something goes wrong and the hole ends up too big, you're stuffed?

I'm surprised the aluminium in the wing tops is thick enough to hold/secure a rivnut

Opinions?

Cheers

[Vin Rouge]

Personally I'd go for pop rivets. They're easy enough to drill out if/when you need to remove the checkerplate and they deter any lowlife with a screwdriver thinking that they can get something for free. The finished job looks tidy too.

[Marty110]

yeah, i would go the rivets. I made my own chequer plate wing tops and bonnet protector - used card board for templates - and riveted on. No probs after 300,000k. I reinforced the bonnet for a second spare and the edge of the bonnet too - you could roll the spare up over the bonnet without any dents - was awesome!

[Samblers]

Looks like a good set-up Marty.

Holes in the checkerplate are already drilled and countersunk... think i'll need some big pop rivets to fill them

[juddy]

Standard rivits are fine if you are drilling blank plate, Patriot Chequer plate is counter sunk, exactly the same as Land Rovers own, and they are fitted in the same way with rivnuts.

We can for those people who prefer the rivited look, supply blank plate with no pre drilled holes.

I personnel would always choose the counter sunk, for that neater look and finish.

[Samblers]

I'll give the rivnuts a crack... how hard can it be? :wasntme:

I'm going to have to drill holes in that nice steel bonnet to put the plate on there ... recommendations please for making sure that it doesnt rust down the track :eek:

[JayBoRover]

I'm guessing you'd want to paint some protection on the exposed steel edges, but I'm not sure exactly what to use. Can't see why automotive paint primer wouldn't do though. Are the Rivnuts supplied steel, aluminium or a mix of both so you can use steel on steel and alloy on alloy and avoid electrolysis? Do you have a Rivnut tool? I have a manual one - used it twice to refit a snorkel to flogged out 'A' pillar holes on my Nissan GUte. I'd have to have a look to see the size ranges it does, but I know it depends whether they are steel or alloy Rivnuts. PM me if you want to work something out.

[redneb72]

I'll give the rivnuts a crack... how hard can it be? :wasntme:

I'm going to have to drill holes in that nice steel bonnet to put the plate on there ... recommendations please for making sure that it doesnt rust down the track :eek:

I bought some chequer plate for my bonnet, and had the chequer plate on my wing tops re-powder coated then secured them all with rivnuts. Very impressed with how easy they are to install and use, and have used them many times since in securing lights, where there were little plastic bits holding them in. Even on a new fuel cap tethering it to the tray, and all of my light protectors.

No doubt about it, I am a rivnut advocate. You can buy the nut-serts in both aluminium and zinc coated steel. The aluminium is obviously the one I use most of as the like metals reduce the chances of galvanic corrosion. The selection of the bolt is what you will have to consider, however I got around this by using Duralac as an inhibitor.

Rivnut tools are also becoming more and more readily available at various places particularly online. I will be updating the progress of my 130 with pictures when I get back from holidays. Until then, if you want a couple of photos, just PM me.

And remember the golden rule, measure twice and drill once.

[PhilipA]

Just on the point of the strength of the aluminium.
You can strengthen both rivets and rivnuts by placing a washer with an appropriate sized hole behind the panel.
Sellers of rivets usually also sell the washers.
Of course you have to be able to access the rear of the panel to do this but it adds heaps of strength in tension and probably shear.
When I use rivets on plastic I do this and it adds heaps of strength.

Regards Philip A

[juddy]

The washer does help, all our kits come with them...

[Samblers]

Cant access the rear of the panel on the wings though...

I think i have steel rivnuts

Cheers for all your help :)

[redneb72]

Cant access the rear of the panel on the wings though...

I think i have steel rivnuts

Cheers for all your help :)

You shouldn't need to access to back of your panel! That is the beauty of the rivnut. I bought aluminium ones from local fastener, m4 from memory. I used a set of engineers callipers to get drill size. Drilled holes and used rivnut tool and viola, you have it all ready to go!

[uninformed]

can you by CSK rivets?

[Samblers]

Just to clarify ...



You can strengthen both rivets and rivnuts by placing a washer with an appropriate sized hole behind the panel.


You shouldn't need to access to back of your panel! That is the beauty of the rivnut.

[redneb72]

Just to clarify ...

I've never had to put a washer behind a rivnut, so I've never had to gain access to the backside of the panel.

If you google or YouTube rivnuts, it'll show you everything you'll need to know.

[Samblers]

Hmmm, I did the install today but not happy. The rivnuts I have been supplied have a plain outer surface (there are no ribs that crush), and they just pull out.

I tried the method described in the link but was not v successful - the theory seems wrong to me... i.e. when tightening the nut on the bolt it pushes me up, rather than the rivnut down. Make sense...? I had to tap them in

Anyway, now how to solve? :confused:

[Samblers]

Kerching!

OK i just youtubed and ive completely misunderstood how these things work - thought they were an inteference fit but they actually crush/ splay behind the panel and are therefore retained...?

Hopefully all is not lost...

[bee utey]

They are called rivnuts because you set them with pliers much like a pop rivet tool. Doing them by hand (nut-and-bolt method) is OK so long as they don't squidge out the front of the panel they are in. I made a hand-held tool once, the main thing was a sharp recess to retain the top of the rivnut as you did up the setting nut. You can easily make a hand tool, you need a drill bit exactly the OD of the rivnut flange, sharpen it so it cuts with two raised points not the normal shape, (basically a shallow W shape so the centre still locates) and drill a shallow circular groove into a piece of flat bar to use as a hand hold.

[Samblers]

Well it was easy in the end - like the tutorial says, should take about a minute each...

Apart from that I got 9 crimped up OK and 1 of them not quite hard enough... the spinning rivnut :mad: Couldnt get the bolt out, had to cut it off with the angle-grinder, v difficult, right next to the bonnet/bullbar, damaged the checkerplate :mad::mad::mad:

Now i'm left with a loose rivnut that i cant get out and probably cant tighten back up. Suggestions?

[greenhornet]

Can you post up a photo? Might help with the solution...sounds tricky.

[Samblers]

Ummm, let me describe it for you... its a mangled loose-fitting rivnut, surrounded by some sikaflex and scratched/dented paintwork :mad:

Cannot drill it out, it'll just spin. :confused:

Only saving grace i think is that if i remove the headlight cluster i may be able to get to the back of the panel

[greenhornet]

Ummm, let me describe it for you... its a mangled loose-fitting rivnut, surrounded by some sikaflex and scratched/dented paintwork :mad:

Cannot drill it out, it'll just spin. :confused:

Only saving grace i think is that if i remove the headlight cluster i may be able to get to the back of the panel

Bugger...

[Samblers]

Sorted.

Removed the headlight cluster and jammed a screwdriver on the back so i could drill the barsteward out. If it had been any other of the 5 rivnuts i would not have been able to do this.

Moral: Make sure these things are tight. Dont damage the threads. Make all your mistakes on an alu panel, not a steel one... I have to fit the bonnet plate next :o

[PhilipA]

Now i'm left with a loose rivnut that i cant get out and probably cant
tighten back up. Suggestions?


Why not just refit the tool into the Rivnut and give it an extra squeeze. I have done that with no problem.
Regards Philip A

[juddy]

If you are having issues with a rivnut, drill it out and start again.

On a side note.

As this as caused a few issues ( first time it ever as ) we will offer a Counter Bored version , that is riveted on, the rivits are the same style rivits Land Rover use for some of there chequer plate kits, so still keeping with the OEM specs.

[Samblers]

Problem was not with the rivnuts Juddy, just lack of knowledge... these are a new type of fastener to me, and i thought they were like a nutsert (which i have used, albeit in plastic).

The one that gave me the grief was on the front curve of the wing near the headlight... it wasnt tight enough, the screw went in slightly askew (it is not on the flat) and started chewing the threads. It started to spin. My fault.

It just meant i couldn't re-insert my 'tool' (i.e. bolt) into it to re-tighten, tried to clean up the thread with a tap but it would just spin spin spin. V frustrating.

Anyway, when i go to do the bonnet plate install i may borrow the tool that a fellow WA forum-member has offered... theres 19 of the suckers! Not looking forward to drilling through all that steel...

Reason for posting up here (aside from needing help) is that we all all learn.

Cheers

[Samblers]

Somebody at work loaned me this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/775.jpg

Quite a tool.

I cant quite believe that this person also carried this tool with them on their trip around Australia with them. And used it! :o I wonder what else they carried ...?

Anyway, i'll be using this to attack my bonnet for the bonnet plate install and maybe i'll sort out my other ones once and for all.

[juddy]

Now thats a nice Kit...

Hopefully you can finish off the job. and all will be well.:)