Kaymar wheel carrier for PUMA

[troppojon]

I've just purchased a 2007 puma wagon and wonderer if it really necessary to fit a Kaymar wheel carrier as I understand the Puma has a steel rear door.

I was thinking of taking the one off my 98 300tdi and fitting it on the Puma.

It will fit won't it?

What is the advantage/ disadvantage of fitting the wheel carrier?

Cheers,
Troppojon

[jimr1]

hi, troppoun, one advantage with spare wheel carrier is less strain on door. The main one for me is the door wont swing shut on you especially on steep hills. As you will know, land rover door catches /stops arn't the best, don't just look at kaymar shop around regards, jimr1.:D

[troppojon]

I already have a Kaymar carrier.
I could fit a mulgo gas strut on the rear door to hold it open.
I do like the look of the Rijidij one.

[JayBoRover]

I've just purchased a 2007 puma wagon and wonderer if it really necessary to fit a Kaymar wheel carrier as I understand the Puma has a steel rear door.

I was thinking of taking the one off my 98 300tdi and fitting it on the Puma.

It will fit won't it?

What is the advantage/ disadvantage of fitting the wheel carrier?

Cheers,
Troppojon
I'm really hoping someone will come along and confirm what's involved in migrating a '98 wheel carrier to a Puma because I'm in a similar position to you. I have the wheel carrier sitting on the shed floor and I keep looking at it and thinking. The actual swing away section will bolt straight on, no problem. The sliding mechanism to attach to the door is where the challenge lies.

I'll post some photo's of the issue but basically the sliding tube section that bolts directly through the door on the '98 can't do that on the Puma. The door construction is different and the panelwork "edges" are right where two of the bolts would go and the other two would be into just the outer panel. There are no structure ribs in the right places.

I think the solution is a large plate that mounts to the existing rear wheel bracket mount points and then bolt the sliding tube section to that with large, countersunk machine screws. That's the concept I'm thinking along the lines of, even if I can't put it into words well. Some photo's may help when I get a chance.

Hopefully someone "really" clever, like Mulgo or rijidij, will come along and put us right.

Ciao

[rijidij]

I'm really hoping someone will come along and confirm what's involved in migrating a '98 wheel carrier to a Puma because I'm in a similar position to you. I have the wheel carrier sitting on the shed floor and I keep looking at it and thinking. The actual swing away section will bolt straight on, no problem. The sliding mechanism to attach to the door is where the challenge lies.

I'll post some photo's of the issue but basically the sliding tube section that bolts directly through the door on the '98 can't do that on the Puma. The door construction is different and the panelwork "edges" are right where two of the bolts would go and the other two would be into just the outer panel. There are no structure ribs in the right places.

I think the solution is a large plate that mounts to the existing rear wheel bracket mount points and then bolt the sliding tube section to that with large, countersunk machine screws. That's the concept I'm thinking along the lines of, even if I can't put it into words well. Some photo's may help when I get a chance.

Hopefully someone "really" clever, like Mulgo or rijidij, will come along and put us right.

Ciao

Are you sure you have a Kaymar, it sounds more like the Davis (?) one when you talk about sliding tubes and bolting it to the door.
The only Kaymar's I've seen on Defenders are the usual type with the latch on the rear of the chassis and not connected to the door at all.



I've just purchased a 2007 puma wagon and wonderer if it really necessary to fit a Kaymar wheel carrier as I understand the Puma has a steel rear door.

I was thinking of taking the one off my 98 300tdi and fitting it on the Puma.

It will fit won't it?

What is the advantage/ disadvantage of fitting the wheel carrier?

Cheers,
Troppojon


A Kaymar carrier should swap straight on to your Puma, with posibly one small addition needed. The chassis on Td5's and Pumas 'dips' in at the ends, so you might need a 5-6mm spacer between the chassis and carrier so the carrier bracket doesn't hit the bottom edge of the body panel, but having said that, I reckon there's a good chance it will bolt straight on without a spacer because I think the top of the Kaymar bracket sits lower than the top of the chassis (unlike other brand carriers which make use of the stronger parts of the chassis ;):D )
The beauty of Defenders is it's easy to get to the chassis where all these things bolt on, so just try it and see.


What is the advantage/ disadvantage of fitting the wheel carrier?

If you intend to use your car for 'serious' travel, for example, driving on corrugated outback roads for many hundreds of kms, the weight of a wheel and tyre on the back door hinges and catch is a lot to bare. The older aluminium skinned doors still had a steel inner frame and commonly cracked.
Fitting a wheel carrier also gives you the option of fitting other accessories to it, such as a Hi-Lift jack, shovel holder, etc etc, which you wouldn't add to a door mounted spare.

Cheers, Murray

[Mulgo]

Are you sure you have a Kaymar, it sounds more like the Davis (?) one when you talk about sliding tubes and bolting it to the door.
The only Kaymar's I've seen on Defenders are the usual type with the latch on the rear of the chassis and not connected to the door at all.





A Kaymar carrier should swap straight on to your Puma, with posibly one small addition needed. The chassis on Td5's and Pumas 'dips' in at the ends, so you might need a 5-6mm spacer between the chassis and carrier so the carrier bracket doesn't hit the bottom edge of the body panel, but having said that, I reckon there's a good chance it will bolt straight on without a spacer because I think the top of the Kaymar bracket sits lower than the top of the chassis (unlike other brand carriers which make use of the stronger parts of the chassis ;):D )
The beauty of Defenders is it's easy to get to the chassis where all these things bolt on, so just try it and see.



If you intend to use your car for 'serious' travel, for example, driving on corrugated outback roads for many hundreds of kms, the weight of a wheel and tyre on the back door hinges and catch is a lot to bare. The older aluminium skinned doors still had a steel inner frame and commonly cracked.
Fitting a wheel carrier also gives you the option of fitting other accessories to it, such as a Hi-Lift jack, shovel holder, etc etc, which you wouldn't add to a door mounted spare.

Cheers, Murray

I second Murray's comments re differences of the different doors. Could also be a Mantec carrier you have.

Not all aftermarket carriers are strong enough to hang additional equipment off it. I only suggest one swing away (opens with the door) carrier for adding additional weight, the Rijidij carrier is the one to go. With its nearly limitless add on brackets (hi-lift jack/second spare/jerry can/push bike/rack) it's clearly the winner in flexibility and strength.

Cheers,
Daniel




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