View Full Version : Roof rigidity, roof racks and tropical roofs
isuzutoo-eh
11th December 2012, 09:52 AM
Hi all,
Is there much flex in the roof of 110 wagons? If a full length roof rack was fitted that was very rigid, would it cause any problems, such as cracking the joins at the pillars, popping out the giraffe-viewing windows or similar?
I want to make a tropical roof, and being an 80s era 110 have the ribs on the outside of the roof. If I was to bolt/rivnut a sheet of aluminium straight to the ribs could it cause the roof to stiffen and hence be a problem? Would it flog the mounting holes out and pop the tropical roof off?
My idea is to get some reasonably thick aluminium, either plain or chequerplate, so that I can walk on the roof without deflecting the roof skin. I don't want an actual roof rack as they can be bloody expensive and heavy. It will also allow me to make a quick and easy mounting method for my RTT.
Any advice or opinions welcome!
MLD
11th December 2012, 12:25 PM
for my RTT.
I've seen what you call a RTT. You are too generous to give it that description. It's a chiropractor's wet dream. :P MLD
THE BOOGER
11th December 2012, 12:30 PM
Its a very obedient rtt sits by the track untill he comes back to pick it up:angel:
THE BOOGER
11th December 2012, 12:33 PM
As for your question the body is isolated from most of the chassis flex so I dont think a rigid roof rack or tropical roof would be a problem.
isuzutoo-eh
11th December 2012, 12:43 PM
I knew I shouldn't have asked for opinions :p
but ground dwelling is so unevolved.
isuzutoo-eh
11th December 2012, 12:53 PM
As for your question the body is isolated from most of the chassis flex so I dont think a rigid roof rack or tropical roof would be a problem.
I didn't think there is any isolation between body and chassis of proper Landies, hence body lifts are nigh on impossible, and also why when flexed it takes a fair bit of effort to open and close the doors...
THE BOOGER
11th December 2012, 12:58 PM
Coilers may be different but with mine there is no flex at all:wasntme:
never been a problem with the disco but we just fitted a full length rack with 4 legs per side its pretty ridgid will let you know if any problems:)
clubagreenie
11th December 2012, 06:37 PM
The body is bolted directly to the chassis so whatever it does the body will do, having said that the body is pretty loose.
Just had a thought while reading, what about using some rubber isolation mounts with a stud fixing on both sides. Use some rivnuts in the ribs and acorn nuts on top of the sheet.
chook73
11th December 2012, 07:05 PM
Interesting thread I had always wondered if my full length rack was adding to the lack of flex and it seems to have got worse since fitting the foxwing which would make sense. I wonder if roll cages make it stiffer again.
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inside
11th December 2012, 07:24 PM
The Perentie wagons have a fibreglass tropical roof that is mounted to the three ribs down the roof and it has no flex at all so I think mounting aluminium there wouldn't be too much of an issue. Mounting a RTT to it though without support from the gutters may be an issue though. It's a lot of weight directly on the roof.
THE BOOGER
11th December 2012, 07:42 PM
Yep the body is bolted on to the chassis but do LR chassis have much flex its mostly in the suspension isnt it?
Yorkshire_Jon
11th December 2012, 07:54 PM
As for your question the body is isolated from most of the chassis flex so I dont think a rigid roof rack or tropical roof would be a problem.
The roof maybe bolted to the chassis via body panels but 110 roofs flex plenty!
With my current 110 if I fully cross axle it I cant open the doors due to roof flex / twist.
Many people complain about the gunk cracking between roof panel and windscreen frame, I believe this is due largely to roofracks "fixing" the roof panel and that gunk is the weakest / most flexible bit left when the rest of the vehicle tries to flex.
My rack is a Patriot rack and is of bolted construction rather than welded... It is designed to flex a bit across the fixings for this very reason.
Having said all that Mark, I suspect if you only put 3 or 4 riv-nuts down the outer most ribs you would be fine. The alternative it to use rubber mounted riv-nuts. You install them just the same but the insert is in a rubber mounting and therefore allows a degree of movement between the fixing surface and object. These kind of fixings would better as you could secure your ally plate with more fixings and thus avoid the resonating sheet effect when moving!
J
clubagreenie
11th December 2012, 08:02 PM
If you do that use a larger hole so that if it does move the bolt is not acting directly against the edge of the hole. Maybe use a rubber grommet to dampen it.
The series vehicles, the bolt holes vs the bolts are slightly larger plus there's the rubber seal under the roof along the windscreen line and the sides are bolted together under the roof edge.
How does this compare to the counties?
BilboBoggles
12th December 2012, 06:46 AM
I think on defenders, that the front of the roof is attached to the windscreen frame via three self tapper screws, in each corner. The frame in the roof that these tappers hold via is just an aluminium bracket that is spot welded to the roof. I think any roof rack or wieght on the roof is likely to break or pull out the spot welds, or the screws to pull through. You then end up with a very creaky and leaky roof. My TD5 roof broke and I don't have a roof rack, just from vibrations in the road.
I reckon the Defender roofs - whilst with luck are OK - they are not capable of taking a roof rack without long term damage.
isuzutoo-eh
12th December 2012, 10:16 AM
Thanks for all of your advice and experience.
I think a somewhat flexible mount might be best, rather than risking flogging holes in the roof ribs and popping off the windscreen. It already rattles itself apart without any further help...
So i'm thinking of using a multitude of rivnuts in the ribs with a bit of mastic or sikaflex on the outside of the shaft, then foam rubber ala Series truck cab mounting, oversize holes in the tropical roof and then the bolts (+washers), through grommets, done up tight enough to compress the foam a bit less than halfway.
I want the tropical roof to be removable in case it all goes to buggery.
The Perentie wagons have a fibreglass tropical roof that is mounted to the three ribs down the roof and it has no flex at all so I think mounting aluminium there wouldn't be too much of an issue. Mounting a RTT to it though without support from the gutters may be an issue though. It's a lot of weight directly on the roof.
The RTT weighs around 17kg, it isn't the normal canvas style as Geoff and Mark's remarks may indicate... I have spare ribs from another roof to brace the underside of the tropical roof and spread the load better too.
clubagreenie
12th December 2012, 11:21 AM
Look up the Mackay rubber products catalogues, vibration isolators catalogue. Page 14 has some that have a threaded hole for a stud fixing.
dick180641
14th December 2012, 08:13 PM
I think you're making mountains out of molehills. I put a very solid roof rack, all gal steel, 4 'legs' each side joined by a 6mm x 50mm bar, that sits in the side gutter, AND a OEM 'Tropical Roof' onto my 1985 110 County when I bought it in 1986. 270 th Klms and 27 years later and I cant see any roof flexing, w'screen putty falling out &c, &c, I also carry one of my spares fitted to the Trop Roof above the front cab. After all, it is the grown mans meccano set!
cal415
15th January 2013, 01:33 PM
Hi Mark, Just stumbled across this, i am looking doing a similar thing to my county too, but adding some extra ribbing to the outside of the roof for some 3mm checker plate to sit on, also adding some additional bracing to the under side of the roof supported off the gal roof base/gutter. I also plan to follow the slope in the front of the roof similar to the perentie style roof platform. For tie down points i will probobly use some small diameter ally or steel tube following the roof line also acting as a roof slider if i lean it into a tree, i also plan on making a basic roll cage up around the windscreen so the sliders will likely mount to this and act as support back to a rear hoop behind the rear doors and again at the very rear of the vehicle.
My plan is a little more involved then what you have described but should give me a very solid roof rack adding only 5mm to the roof height also doubling as a safari roof.
Have you got anywhere with yours yet?
ugu80
15th January 2013, 04:24 PM
Watching a Swedish show called Real Humans on SBS. One of the characters drives a series 3 with a tropical roof, which begs the question, why would you need a tropical roof in Sweden?
jimr1
15th January 2013, 05:48 PM
Watching a Swedish show called Real Humans on SBS. One of the characters drives a series 3 with a tropical roof, which begs the question, why would you need a tropical roof in Sweden?
Hi , there were and still is a lot of different specs, on offer from Land Rover if i recal . the safari roofs were fitted to a lot of Stasion Wagons . the tropical roof not only helped keep kool , it would help insulate them a bit from the cold , i.e.when theres 150mm snow on the roof . early Land Rovers had poor heaters to say the least .jimr1.
isuzutoo-eh
16th January 2013, 11:04 AM
Hi Mark, Just stumbled across this, i am looking doing a similar thing to my county too, but adding some extra ribbing to the outside of the roof for some 3mm checker plate to sit on, also adding some additional bracing to the under side of the roof supported off the gal roof base/gutter. I also plan to follow the slope in the front of the roof similar to the perentie style roof platform. For tie down points i will probobly use some small diameter ally or steel tube following the roof line also acting as a roof slider if i lean it into a tree, i also plan on making a basic roll cage up around the windscreen so the sliders will likely mount to this and act as support back to a rear hoop behind the rear doors and again at the very rear of the vehicle.
My plan is a little more involved then what you have described but should give me a very solid roof rack adding only 5mm to the roof height also doubling as a safari roof.
Have you got anywhere with yours yet?
G'day Mick,
I've taken measurements and sketched my ideas but that's about all. I'd love a roll cage of sorts too. You are making two sets of parts aren't you? :p
I have a centre diff issue to deal with before this modification happens. Too many ideas not enough time or money!
ReignCKD
26th July 2015, 06:05 AM
The Perentie wagons have a fibreglass tropical roof that is mounted to the three ribs down the roof and it has no flex at all so I think mounting aluminium there wouldn't be too much of an issue. Mounting a RTT to it though without support from the gutters may be an issue though. It's a lot of weight directly on the roof.
Sorry for pulling this old thread up, but do we have any additional info or part number on the tropical top? Was there vents in it like the series has? Does it mount on the ribs? Is there a template available to make a custom one?
I am attempting to buy a perentie gs or FFR and would love a way to get a hardtop on the cheap for winter while keeping the proper look. And yes I understand the FFR has half height fixed tailgate.
I Love My Landy!
29th July 2015, 09:46 AM
Hi Mark,
I have a full length steel roof rack on my 110. Since adding it i have noticed that the doors move around a lot more when flexing or cornering hard. There is now some movement between the roof and windscreen surround. I get more water leaks now too, in weird areas (the passenger seat gets wet!). I had a 3/4 length roof rack before and didn't have any of the above problems.
Cheers,
Edward :)
Landybitz
29th July 2015, 01:41 PM
Sorry for pulling this old thread up, but do we have any additional info or part number on the tropical top? Was there vents in it like the series has? Does it mount on the ribs? Is there a template available to make a custom one?
I am attempting to buy a perentie gs or FFR and would love a way to get a hardtop on the cheap for winter while keeping the proper look. And yes I understand the FFR has half height fixed tailgate.
The fibreglass Perentie roof, is $2661.00 GST
dingsy
29th July 2015, 07:22 PM
Sorry for pulling this old thread up, but do we have any additional info or part number on the tropical top? Was there vents in it like the series has? Does it mount on the ribs? Is there a template available to make a custom one? I am attempting to buy a perentie gs or FFR and would love a way to get a hardtop on the cheap for winter while keeping the proper look. And yes I understand the FFR has half height fixed tailgate.
Hey mate, Prime Composites in QLD make the tropical roof for the perentie. Price was around the $1500 mark if I remember correctly. I would call them and ask - they were very helpful - I'm fairly certain there's no internal vents . I didn't go for it in the end as I couldn't justify the expense. I would be very interested in the roof if I could get one for $1k but obviously not a high quantity item!
Landybitz
29th July 2015, 08:17 PM
Hey mate, Prime Composites in QLD make the tropical roof for the perentie. Price was around the $1500 mark if I remember correctly. I would call them and ask - they were very helpful - I'm fairly certain there's no internal vents . I didn't go for it in the end as I couldn't justify the expense. I would be very interested in the roof if I could get one for $1k but obviously not a high quantity item!
Really? so they have dropped the price $1000+ in less than a year?
dingsy
29th July 2015, 08:22 PM
Really? so they have dropped the price $1000+ in less than a year?
I asked in 2013, just checked the email date - they could well have reviewed the price since then though. This was for a white one. HYG5399
Landybitz
29th July 2015, 08:31 PM
7th of May 2014 1.36pm Email, RRP price email HYG5399 ( JRAS07 ) $2661.00 + GST Drab Olive Gelcoat Finish.
gromit
30th July 2015, 04:51 PM
The recommended max. roof load on a Defender isn't much (I'll have to check my manual).
Mine has a full length roof rack and the seams at the edge of the windscreen opened up.
PITA job because the roof lining has to be removed but, as mentioned, the roof is held to the windscreen frame by two large Philips head self tappers each side !
To be fair there are probably a few others but I can't remember & didn't take any pictures at the time.
The screws were loose and one had fallen out.
Many people overload them without issues. My full length roofrack is probably above the max weight and when I got the vehicle it had rubber boat rollers on it which weighed a ton plus someone had a tinny up there.
Colin
clubagreenie
30th July 2015, 09:51 PM
Would there be an issue using a std roof? Gives you gutters for rack mount. Mount on screen and adapt to mount as per glass roof or own brackets to cage.
Didge
31st July 2015, 09:13 PM
Watching a Swedish show called Real Humans on SBS. One of the characters drives a series 3 with a tropical roof, which begs the question, why would you need a tropical roof in Sweden?
Global warming?
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