Log in

View Full Version : Defender 110 rear pull out drawer



Dockstrada
11th December 2012, 05:48 PM
So I’ve decided to make a rear draw for the Defender , its going to extend out aprox 1050mm long 640mm wide and 220 deap still to be confirmed .

I noticed that the draw will need to be off set to the left to allow the draw to clear door stay , this will leave a small pocket on the right side that I think may fit a air compressor nicely .

I’m using 3.00mm ally sheet for the draw and the draw box to save weight and 10mm ply wood for the top , It has an access lid for when the back is empty, saves you pulling the draw if you don’t need to .

The plywood top will be aprox 1600x1100 as it sits on top of the wheel araches, the hard bit is trying to get the top into the back .

I have a set of 225kg sliders that I bought from UES that extend 1100mm .

I drew a quick model on Autodesk to see how it look , I still need to tweak it a little, its rough but I think you get the idea .

Any suggestions that I have missed are welcomed .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/790.jpg

chook73
11th December 2012, 07:14 PM
Looks good. You will end up with quite a large hole on the right I would suggest an access hatch, mine is 3/4 the depth of the back by about 100mm wide and you will get a heap of stuff in there. I use it for spares that are heavy that I am unlikely to need. It might not be the best place for a compressor given the lack of ventilation.


Sent from my iPhone using Thumbs

redrovertdi
12th December 2012, 06:50 AM
Mine has 10mm ply on the top but will soon be replaced with thicker ply as it sags under the weight of the fridge and stuff[dog] above, only enough to cause the draw end to slightly bind when opening and closing, in my side hatch[door check strap area] i keep ropes and water pipe/breaker bar for undoing maxi drive caps, the top over that area is hinged.

The Cone of Silence
12th December 2012, 08:45 AM
Good stuff mate. Don't forget a stopper for the drawer so it doesn't put pressure on the rear door if you're going uphill....or really accelerating hard ;-)

Also, if you're going to modify your rear door in any way i.e. put a shelf or mount tools on it, make sure you leave enough room.

I love my drawer, although I do find it gets disorganised quickly. Needs dividers.

Bobby

MLD
12th December 2012, 09:54 AM
I have 10 or 12mm ply and it bows under the weight of stuff. Depending on the weight you put on top i'd consider 18mm or thereabouts. Or use C angle on the leading (unsupported) edges to give rigidity.

As an alternative idea to a draw, I pot riveted a length of alu angle to the vertical sides of the wheel boxes and placed sheet ply across the void so the top of the ply is level with the wheel boxes. I covered the boot area with marine carpet. You have the entire sub floor to your disposal for storage. The ply comes in 1000mm x 1200mm so there is no need to cut. Down side is things that get pushed to the back (behind the seat) are difficult to get to. And if you are enthusiastic off road the contents can/do slide into the back door. I cut and fitted checker plate to the door to overcome that expected damage. If i wasn't lazy I'd knock up some mechanism to stop the contents pushing against the door.

The mid point of your idea and my set up is to abandon the ply on top of the wheel boxes and knock up a draw system that sits in the void between the wheel boxes. Would be easier to fit and save weight of ply on the wheel boxes that may be redundant.

MLD

isuzutoo-eh
12th December 2012, 10:12 AM
I found a false floor under my garage from my Dad's long-gone Defender, it has 12mm form ply with 1/2" SHS steel transversely bracing it. I tested it in my County, with my food and cooking boxes sitting on it, there wasn't any noticeable deflection, and I hadn't bolted it to the wheel wheels, so if fixed it would have supported more weight without flexing.
I'll be reusing the SHS with a fresh bit of ply when I make mine.

jddisco200tdi
12th December 2012, 11:14 AM
This sketch might be of a little help.
I was originally going to make the drawer from aluminium but I ended up making from 10mm ply and glued and screwed the bits together.
The notch at the back goes over the rear seat mount base.
The top deck across the guards I think was 18mm formply.

Regards

John D - Defender 110 2.4

Samblers
12th December 2012, 06:08 PM
Is this for a puma defender?

Reason I ask is that i'd like to make a drawer system but it needs to be removeable if we ever need to fit the third row of seats back in for when we have visitors. Just a thought.

The other thing that i was thinking is to split it into two long drawers... or a drawer on the left and hatches on the right - that way you can brace the top of the unit in the middle where the maximum sag would be, and also avoid the clashing between the drawer and the door opening.

Post pics when complete :)

camel_landy
12th December 2012, 10:44 PM
FWIW - My setup has a shorter drawer with a trunk at the back.

The trunk is lockable, accessible from the top and it is where I keep all of the main spare parts for the truck. I stick them there on the basis that I will rarely need access and it keeps them buried and out of the way.

The drawer is then shorter, which makes it more manageable and due to the hinge, etc... there is a small hatch on the RHS where I can store a few bits. I keep my 'kitchen' in the drawer, so that I don't have to unpack anything for a lunch stop.

If you make the top removable and rivnuts to secure to the tub, it'll make it simple to pop it out if needed.

HTH

M

Reads90
13th December 2012, 05:34 AM
FWIW - My setup has a shorter drawer with a trunk at the back.

The trunk is lockable, accessible from the top and it is where I keep all of the main spare parts for the truck. I stick them there on the basis that I will rarely need access and it keeps them buried and out of the way.

The drawer is then shorter, which makes it more manageable and due to the hinge, etc... there is a small hatch on the RHS where I can store a few bits. I keep my 'kitchen' in the drawer, so that I don't have to unpack anything for a lunch stop.

If you make the top removable and rivnuts to secure to the tub, it'll make it simple to pop it out if needed.

HTH

M

I think I have the same set up as Mark.

This is in my 90 but I now have this is the 110

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/697.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/698.jpg

Or just the draw on its own

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/251.jpg

Ali

slugworth
13th December 2012, 06:46 AM
The biggest problem with the puma is the wheel boxes are not square so you need the top deck to cover the whole load area.

Dockstrada
13th December 2012, 03:30 PM
This sketch might be of a little help.
I was originally going to make the drawer from aluminium but I ended up making from 10mm ply and glued and screwed the bits together.
The notch at the back goes over the rear seat mount base.
The top deck across the guards I think was 18mm formply.

Regards

John D - Defender 110 2.4

thanks John almost exactley the same as my measurments .

Samblers
13th December 2012, 03:56 PM
Reads90 - did you make this drawer or purchase? It looks very nice.

I dont have any experience working with alu (new to defenders) but have wordworking experience and tools... what sort of skills are involved in makign something like this?

Cheers

Reads90
13th December 2012, 05:57 PM
Reads90 - did you make this drawer or purchase? It looks very nice.

I dont have any experience working with alu (new to defenders) but have wordworking experience and tools... what sort of skills are involved in makign something like this?

Cheers

Hi

No they came from Mobile Storage Systems in the uk http://www.mobilestoragesystems.net/

DEFENDERZOOK
13th December 2012, 10:55 PM
where abouts in sydney are you.......?

I've got a simple drawer in a 03 fender if you want to have a look.....might give you some ideas to do or avoid when building yours.........

im in illawong......and work near maroubra if that helps you........

cheers...tony....

camel_landy
15th December 2012, 12:55 AM
I think I have the same set up as Mark.

This is in my 90 but I now have this is the 110

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/697.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/698.jpg

Yeah, exact same setup...

...and from the same company too, I see. :D

M

Dockstrada
16th December 2012, 11:53 AM
where abouts in sydney are you.......?

I've got a simple drawer in a 03 fender if you want to have a look.....might give you some ideas to do or avoid when building yours.........

im in illawong......and work near maroubra if that helps you........

cheers...tony....

If your asking me I work in Matraville near Botany, this is where i spend most of my time .

DEFENDERZOOK
16th December 2012, 11:22 PM
if you wanted to come and have a look at the drawer in mine......you are more than welcome to.......
matraville is only 3 mins from where i am.......im actually on bunnerong rd.....you probably drive past me every day.......

Dockstrada
17th December 2012, 08:19 AM
if you wanted to come and have a look at the drawer in mine......you are more than welcome to.......
matraville is only 3 mins from where i am.......im actually on bunnerong rd.....you probably drive past me every day.......

Ok, so you have the green 110 next to the servo ? been eye balling it every time i drive past , looks like a nice rig and well sorted.

Im just down in Perry st next door to the council recycling depot ,in the engineering place with all the wheels in the window.

Il be away for a few weeks, Il pm you when im back.

DEFENDERZOOK
17th December 2012, 10:05 PM
No.....mines the white one at the shell servo.......feel free to drop in whenever you see it there.......

Dockstrada
18th December 2012, 09:27 AM
No.....mines the white one at the shell servo.......feel free to drop in whenever you see it there.......


Ok, I know the one now ? may drop in today if i have time .

Dockstrada
14th September 2013, 11:46 AM
Ok so today I had a chance to knock up the draw, Its not done yet just need to fit the lock and upholster the front panel, but I think you can get the picture.It came in at 690mm wide 1070mm long and 160mm deep . total hours 5 from start to finish.

Also knocked up a stainless steel rubber edge strip seen on the last pic to replace to steel L/R one. I may have knocked up an extra while I was at it , let me know if anyone wants it :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1015.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1016.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1017.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1018.jpg

tbdefender
14th September 2013, 11:53 AM
Looks good
I am looking at building mine soon but thought about 2 drawers with a centre vertical 10ply to eliminate sag altogether.
Anyone find the 2 drawer way is too narrow??

Thinking this way I can make 3 divided boxes in one side to keep it in order for longer and possibly setup the gas burner and sink in the other.

Samblers
14th September 2013, 03:29 PM
About to go into the garage, stare at the back of mine, do some chin-scratching... thinking of doing the same thing. Post pics when complete!


Looks good
I am looking at building mine soon but thought about 2 drawers with a centre vertical 10ply to eliminate sag altogether.
Anyone find the 2 drawer way is too narrow??

Thinking this way I can make 3 divided boxes in one side to keep it in order for longer and possibly setup the gas burner and sink in the other.

Dockstrada
16th September 2013, 08:52 AM
So after talking to a few mates on the weekend, they hit me up to make them some draws. Being that I’m very busy I have come up with the idea of making just the shells and leave the rest of the assembly and drilling up to the individual.

Basically you would get a draw shell and an outer shell just like in the pic, no sliders and no timber. All you would need to do is drill the holes and screw it all together. I have the site where the draw sliders would be bought , the timber could be bought from the local hardware . the size would be 1000 L x 690 W and 155 H .Tools needed are a drill and a saw .

I would also include all the timber cutting sizes needed to achieve the same result as mine .

Il need to make at least 10 to make it worth while . I have come up with an initial cost which is quite cheep. Let me know if there is any interest and I’ll start a thread in the for sale section .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/912.jpg

Rear or door end of the draw
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/913.jpg

Back end or cabin end of the draw , I made it this way for heavy braking saves the timber getting ripped off . As you can see the sliders i bought were too long , 1015mm would have been better .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/914.jpg

Samblers
16th September 2013, 03:19 PM
Good work that man :thumbsup:

gruntfuttock
16th September 2013, 03:46 PM
Depending on price could be interested

Lickity
16th September 2013, 07:38 PM
If only you had published this a few weeks ago. Just got a Black Widow draw system myself. Would have definitely been interested. Great work though, you shouldn't have any problems getting the numbers.

Jondavball
16th September 2013, 08:31 PM
Likewise, price dependent I would be interested. Nice work on the design and build.

Dockstrada
17th September 2013, 07:29 AM
Ok I have placed pricing info here.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/internal-accessories-sale/182223-defender-rear-draw-shell-outer-shell.html#post1990445

Dockstrada
28th November 2013, 04:59 PM
Ok I have placed pricing info here.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/internal-accessories-sale/182223-defender-rear-draw-shell-outer-shell.html#post1990445


Ok I have finally hada chance to knock up some draw shells for the 110 defender details can be found here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2036981#post2036981 (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2036981#post2036981)
As stated in my previous post Basically you would get a draw shell and an outer shell just like in the pic, no sliders and no timber. All you would need to do is drill the holes and screw it all together. I have the site where the draw sliders would be bought , the timber could be bought from the local hardware . the size would be 1000 L x 690 W and 155 H .Tools needed are a drill and a saw .

I would also include all the timber cutting sizes needed to achieve the same result as mine .



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2036981#post2036981

looksharp5
12th November 2018, 07:09 AM
How did you bolt to back of the car? Thanks.

HowardSmall
12th November 2018, 07:55 AM
from eBay Item Number 263772768966 for about $270 which had a slider on top. Problem is, when the fridge is on it the lid is too high to open properly (can only open about 30 degrees) so I would have been better off just buying the drawer without slider.263772768966

DiscoMick
12th November 2018, 09:21 AM
Just thought I'd mention I had a short drawer fitted to mine, leaving a space at the rear with a lift off lid. In there I have a second battery laid on its side and various electricals. This means I can plug a solar panel directly into the second battery for running the fridge while camping.
The whole thing is out of sight, keeps the weight low and central and works well.
My drawers have bolts through the floor to hold them in place.

karlz
12th November 2018, 04:52 PM
How did you bolt to back of the car? Thanks.

Buy yourself a rivnut kit - very many uses with a defender.
For example:-
1. Used Rivnuts to bolt home made drawer system to floor
2. Used Rivnuts to bolt rear roof rack ladder
3. Used Rivnuts to bolt chequerplate to top of fenders

This is the kit I bought from the big green shed (https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-85-piece-single-handle-blind-nut-riveter-kit_p5910345)

DiscoMick
12th November 2018, 04:55 PM
If you do bolt it to holes in the floor make sure you use oversized washers on both sides to spread the weight of the drawers.

looksharp5
13th November 2018, 08:07 AM
Thanks guys - have bought the Titan rear drawer (single), but still need to bolt it down. Trying to figure out where is OK to put it and not damage anything underneath when bolting/rivnutting.

DiscoMick
13th November 2018, 10:29 AM
Ours is bolted towards the corners, avoiding the 120 litre fuel tank and other things.

MLD
13th November 2018, 11:09 AM
Buy yourself a rivnut kit - very many uses with a defender.
For example:-
1. Used Rivnuts to bolt home made drawer system to floor
2. Used Rivnuts to bolt rear roof rack ladder
3. Used Rivnuts to bolt chequerplate to top of fenders

This is the kit I bought from the big green shed (https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-85-piece-single-handle-blind-nut-riveter-kit_p5910345)

Ditto, i fixed my slide out draws on my 130 tray deck with rivnuts, so much easier than the former technique of climbing underneath to fit nut and wedge with spanner to extract oneself and put rattle gun on bolt head without knocking spanner off the nut. Don't limit yourself to the Defender. I used rivnuts on the drier to insert M12 SS feet. My tip, buy the kit that goes to M12. The price difference is nominal and the gun is physically larger, better for leverage.