Coil sprung FC

[DasLandRoverMan]

Hello chaps, I've not visited much recently, but I have noticed the FC section is a little quiet, so here's my contribution, a bit of a write up on one of the projects I'm currently working on.

It started life as a 1984 110, has had a new chassis, recon axles, engine, box, and one of those fancy galvalised bulkheads from Ashtree (not as good as they'd have you believe) and arrived with me looking like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/668.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/669.jpg

The idea being to pull it apart, add some extra steelwork, and put it back together looking something like this excellent bit of photoshop work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/670.jpg

So, space found in the workshop.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/671.jpg

Started pulling it apart.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/672.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/673.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/674.jpg

Took the bulkhead off.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/675.jpg

And did a little bit of rapid prototyping with some scrap wood before I make it up in metal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/676.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/677.jpg

I started modifying the seatbox, first off remove the battery tray and underseat toolbox. Both steel, and ****ing heavy if they land on your foot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/678.jpg

Then attatch the side frames loosely to drill the holes for the rivets.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/679.jpg

Sitting it up front I find the turbo is going to be very much in the way of where the cab wants to be.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/680.jpg

Solution? A set of manifolds from a 300 Tdi, and lift the cab subframe a couple of inches. Leaves things a little tight, but workable.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/681.jpg

Time to start off with the metalwork.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/256.jpg

The front legs bolt through the brackets that held the front wings, whilst the rear sits on top of the chassis rail/bulkhead outrigger and is supported/held down by the leg bolted down to the outrigger. I'm also going to add in a brace from the back of the rail to the bolt on the outrigger either side, and obviously a support up front.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/682.jpg

Drilled some holes and mounted the bulkhead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/683.jpg

Floors and seatbox to see how accurate my positioning was.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/684.jpg

And the donor IIA FC rear bulkhead mounted to check the rest of the clearances.
The 110 one will be modified and fitted in its place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/685.jpg

And inside with the engine cover.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/686.jpg

It actually looks like I've achieved something.

I'll post another update when I've composed it. Progress has been a little slow recently as I've been moving the workshop. 2 years in the old place saw me with around 6 tons of assorted parts, 6 vehicles plus all my tools to shift. Hopefully not have to do that again for a while!!

[123rover50]

Hi.Interesting project.
I had mine on your old 900 club forum.
Are you sticking to the 2A gearchange rather than the 2B?

Didiman

[DasLandRoverMan]

The guy I'm building it for got hold of a few IIA FC cab panels, but everything else is being made from scratch.

The main gear lever is going to be something similar to the IIB setup, but I'm putting the lever up through the 'transmission' tunnel to keep it in the standard Defender location.

[chazza]

How cool is that!:D Top project cobber!

Cheers Chazza

[123rover50]

The guy I'm building it for got hold of a few IIA FC cab panels, but everything else is being made from scratch.

The main gear lever is going to be something similar to the IIB setup, but I'm putting the lever up through the 'transmission' tunnel to keep it in the standard Defender location.

Will you do away with the fan prop shaft then, and go electric.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Yeah, electric fan up front, gonna modify the brake/servo assembly to get it all to fit in under the bonnet, plus an erberspacher heater for the camper body that's going on it, and a twin fuel tank setup to run diesel and veg oil.

I'm rather tempted to build one fr myself once I've got this one done.

[easo]

Interesting project, look forward to watching it.

Regards Easo

[Landy Smurf]

cool project like may others, I am going to watch this thread with keen interest

[DasLandRoverMan]

Not much to report in terms of major updates, but I have been working on finishing the subframe, and have made up the mountings for the front bumper.

Still waiting for the custom steering joints to arrive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1313.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ken West LROCV was building one on the OEM FC chassis and making it 6X6.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/265.jpg

But if I would think a 130 chassis would be the preferable option, the 110 chassis is too light in the rear end when going down steep decents and will tend to lift the rear wheels. The 110 SIIB already has this tendency.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hello chaps, I've not visited much recently, but I have noticed the FC section is a little quiet, so here's my contribution, a bit of a write up on one of the projects I'm currently working on.

<snip>

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/256.jpg

The front legs bolt through the brackets that held the front wings, whilst the rear sits on top of the chassis rail/bulkhead outrigger and is supported/held down by the leg bolted down to the outrigger. I'm also going to add in a brace from the back of the rail to the bolt on the outrigger either side, and obviously a support up front. ...<snip>Hi Dan

I haven't been around the forum much this fortnight. A couple of comments.

How are you going to do the steering? I had been considering getting the steering bevel-box from a Mitsubishi L300 or Delica and then shafing back to the flange on the PAS steering box. The problem was going to be to get the rotation of the longitudinal shaft to correspond to the rotation of the PAS box in the chassis. My thoughts (in your arrangement) would be to fit a reversed P38 box where your Defender box currently is and if the rotation is wrong (turns left when you want to turn right) was to fit a LHD Defender box reversed in the RHS position.

Looking at your current upper chassis work, you may have a support bar in the same location as you may need to run the steering longitudinal shaft.

Also looking at your construction, Bill (Wagoo) on this forum worked on my SIIb some time ago when they removed the windscreen and the front of the body sagged under the cantilevered weight of the front of the body. The short length of your upper chassis work may risk the same or similar problem.

Have you thought about reinforcing the support at the rear of the upper chassis rails down to the two bolt holes that used to hold the front of the bulkhead (firewall in Oz) footwells?

In regards to the gear lever mechanism. If it were me I would try to avoid putting a gearbox relay through the top of the engine cover as it always introduces more noise into the cab and causes difficulties when you want to lift the engine cover to inspect the engine. Had you thought about doing a cable mechanism, using a cable salvaged from a forward control Isuzu or similar and fitting it through the front of the seat box, not dissimilar to the SIIa position? You would have to make the mechanism work at the gearbox selector mechanism end, but it would be no harder than the mechanism that "The Grub" has done here for the Isuzu MSA gearbox conversions.

Diana

[DasLandRoverMan]

Having just looked back through the photos I realise I haven't posted an update on here for a while, so, being as comprehensive as possible, here we go.

First up the steering setup:
I'm a little restricted as to how I can do it as the base vehicle has a galvanised bulkhead and I don't want to get into cutting and welding the thing, so I'm making the best I can of it with the standard Defender column setup, even though it makes things a little tight.
A double UJ will be at the bottom of the column with a block bearing supporting the top end of the shaft that'll run down onto this;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1505.jpg

A bevel gearbox out of the front of a Vauxhall (nee Holden) Frontera B which was found on eBay at a very reasonable price.
From there a longer shaft runs backwards to a LHD 4 Bolt box positioned thus;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1311.jpg

The box needs to be positioned as shown and the chassis redrilled (which needs doing anyway) to suit. I'm going to have a 3mm plate either side to give it a bit more strength whilst I'm at it.
Positioning the bevel box to keep the angles on the UJ's on the top part of the column sensible also means the leg in front of the steering box won't be in the way.
The extra steering shafts have been made up to the standard Land Rover spline count/size with a pair of custom UJ's for the bevel box with the Vauxhall spline on one end, and Land Rover the other to keep as many standard parts as possible.
No good reason why it won't work.

Up front things now look like this (still to be fully welded obviously) with the old front bumper forming the basis of the support for the front of the cab.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1312.jpg

The front bumper is now a galvanised Series item, which completes the front end quite nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1313.jpg

There's more bracketry holding the subframe down (including where the old bulkhead supports were) plus some additional bracing at the back where it bolts to the outriggers, with some nice big brackets for the rear of the cab also, sorry it's a fuzzy picture.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1314.jpg

If it weren't a galvy chassis I would have likely welded some more attachments on, but as is I'm confident it's strong enough.
The body is going to be a lightweight self supporting structure based on a commercial ambulance body the owner has designed and crash tested as part of his day job, so I just need the base vehicle to be right.

Gear linkage wise I'm planning an up and over rod linkage similar to the IIB setup, but coming up through the hole in the transmission tunnel as with a standard 110. I'm also going to adapt the transfer box lever to work remotely on a cable setup.

I'm hoping the steering components will arrive this week, so I'll be able to crack on and get the thing finished by the end of the month.

What more can you tell us about the 6x6?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ken was using the Perentie 6X6 drive on the LT95 box and offset Range Rover diffs (although I counselled that the Salisbury would be a preferable type), The chassis was cut and lengthened to allow for the third diff with the rear radius arms placed in the trailing position so the axles could be spaced closer than with the Scottorn/Reynolds Boughton design.

I'm not aware if the radius arms were made stronger because of the trailing position.

The reason I don't like the gear linkage through the engine cover is because (at least on my South African built SIII/SIIB ) lifting the cover is a hassel because of the tight fitting rubber boot over the gear linkage. It woud not be the same problem with the leather gaiter of the UK built SIIBs, but that type lets in more noise and fumes.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Sounds like an interesting build Diana.

Anyways, an update!!!

Having progressed with fits and spurts for the past few weeks the parts required to do the steering arrived, and I've made some rapid progress.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1517.jpg

2 UJ's (Land Rover spline one end and Frontera spline the other) along with 2 splined shafts in the Land Rover pattern.
Not what you'd call cheap compared to standard bits, but we're doing it right first time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1198.jpg

Up top the UJ's from the old column are joined end to end with a piece from a scrap Range Rover column, with a bearing to support it, this allows the double UJ to turn without flopping around.
The joints have been 'adjusted' slightly to allow a wider arc of movement.
Down the bottom is fairly self explantory.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1199.jpg

A look back to the box (sorry it's a bit dark).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1200.jpg

And it all fits behind the front panel with some room to spare.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1201.jpg

Splitting the radiator and Intercooler from their frame will make things a bit easier to position under the bonnet, the radiator fits nicely between the footwells (something like the factory IIA/IIB setup) whilst I'm putting a 300 Tdi Intercooler (the pipes are better positioned than a 200 one) on its side and in front of the radiator with the pipes going underneath.

Coming together nicely.

[DasLandRoverMan]

The first picture/paragraph are in response to a question on another board about how the rest of the steering setup was done.

To plaguerise a well known advert for a hair care product: Here comes the science bit!!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1041.jpg

Not the clearest of pictures, but that's the business end of the steering setup, a standard Land Rover part, from a left hand drive vehicle.
The chassis has been drilled to allow the box to fit (as the holes are offset anyway) and also to point it in the direction I want the input shaft to face.
The drop arm has been rotated 180 degrees and everything works nicely, whilst the power steering pipes also fit with a little rebending.

Anyways, progress has been made!!! For a start the sill channels have been cut down and fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1042.jpg

The seat box has been trimmed to get the engine cover on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1043.jpg

And I've tried the doors on to make sure they fit the body before everything gets fully welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1044.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1045.jpg

The wheels look a little small, but not as bad as they did before I cut the arch out of the bottom.
I'd suggest a set of 315/75r16's would sort that right out.

Doesn't look to be a million miles away from the original photochop.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1046.jpg

And a close up of the cab.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1047.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1048.jpg

If the weather's decent on Monday I'll shove it outside and take some photos in daylight before it comes apart again.

[chazza]

What a fascinating thread this is!

You are a clever-cookie at working out how to make the steering work.

Thanks so much for posting on AULRO,

Cheers Charlie

[DasLandRoverMan]

Thanks for your kind words so far.

Anyways, a few faster moving jobs held up progress in the workshop a little the past couple weeks, but I have made some forward progress with the thing, and the basics have now finished the 'dry build' stage.

First off, this truck will be running both diesel and veg oil, the main tank at the back for veg, and this front tank (from a 90) for diesel.
It's also getting an erberspacher diesel preheater for the water system (this one liberated from a Saab) which will live down by the tank and under the camper body floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/480.jpg

Cardboard template for the steel shaping panel in the bottom of the door. I'll fill the rest in with box section steel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/481.jpg

Brakes are going to have a remote servo, mounted under the transmission tunnel/drivers floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/482.jpg

Coming apart again, the battery tray being fairly obvious in the foreground.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/835.jpg

And the frame on the floor, nearly all welded up after which its being blasted and painted before the final build begins.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/483.jpg

[NiteMare]

an interesting project, i think i'll be watching this (but don't tell anyone :BigThumb: )

[Ozdunc]

Yes indeed very interesting!!!
I'll be breaking out the popcorn:)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Dan

Had you thought about using the later shock absorber mounts/brackets outside the springs? The type like on the air suspension Range Rovers, which would give you more room to access the side of the engine and more clearance under the seatbox.

Diana

[DasLandRoverMan]

The thought had crossed my mind, but I didn't really see any great advantage over the standard setup.
Access isn't going to be much (if any) better without the turrets there, and either way its a lot better than on a standard IIB, and a 101.

Coupled with the height of the cab/seatbox being set mostly by the height of the engine the shock absorber turrets have plenty of clearance, and as I'm leaving the battery box and toolbox lids as removable pieces access and ability to remove parts of necessary is pretty good.

At the moment it's 2-3 inches higher than a standar IIB (mostly for engine clearance) although I suspect you could bring the overall height down an inch or two if you were running a V8 or an inline engine that had the inlet manifold positioned differently.

Either way it doesn't look particularly ungainly, and should be relatively easy to work on if required.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Well, after a bit of time running flat out to finish off rebuilding a SWB Series II, I've managed some decent progress with this truck.
First off the battery tray was made up and welded on, before stripping it down to be fully welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/835.jpg

All done and ready to be blasted and painted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/836.jpg

Upon its return, painted with galvafroid, and bolted down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/837.jpg

Bulkhead back on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/838.jpg

Front part of the new gear linkage, a series ball/lever extended to suit, with a slight mechanical advantage in terms of leverage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/839.jpg

Back of the cab/seatbox bolted down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/840.jpg

With decent clearance to the inlet manifold.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/841.jpg

Roof on to check the fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/842.jpg

And from the front with all the panels thrown on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/843.jpg

Getting there slowly, just the wiring/plumbing issues to sort now.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I keep thinking this cab is going to be up very high.

On my SIIBs there is hardly enough room to push your hand through between the main chassis and the upper chassis. I do understand that you are using 2" RHS instead of 3"X2" C section but it still looks to be about 4" higher.

[DasLandRoverMan]

From memory I lifted the top of the subframe 2 (possibly 3) inches to get clearance for the engine under the cab, which is about 3/4".
The sizes for this, and the wooden prototype were measured from a IIB chassis, the only marker points I could use were the rear and top faces of the rear crossmember, as everything else was different, and it would have been a lot easier to build one with a full length top frame.

Anyways, as it stands the base of the windscreen is approx 1 1/2" taller than a standard IIB on 9.00x16's,
I can't see it standing head and shoulders above the truck its been compared to once its finished, and if height is a problem once its fully built and sitting on some bigger tyres, then a lowering kit is probably the way to go.

Also worth mentioning that its no worse to get in and out of than a IIB either.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Not a huge write up for the minute, but a couple of pictures.

It's now drivable, with a completion deadline of 2 weeks time.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1519.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1520.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1521.jpg

[101RRS]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1517.jpg






Where does get a 90 degree unit like you have.

Thanks

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Where does get a 90 degree unit like you have.

Thanks

GarryDidn't he say it came off an Isuzu Frontera B, I guess thats a Holden something out here.
Having just looked back through the photos I realise I haven't posted an update on here for a while, so, being as comprehensive as possible, here we go.

<snip>
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1505.jpg

A bevel gearbox out of the front of a Vauxhall (nee Holden) Frontera B which was found on eBay at a very reasonable price. ...<snip>

[DasLandRoverMan]

Vauxhall Frontera over here, according to Wikipedia its a Holden Frontera in Australia/New Zealand, or perhaps an Isuzu Wizard?

[rangieman]

Vauxhall Frontera over here, according to Wikipedia its a Holden Frontera in Australia/New Zealand, or perhaps an Isuzu Wizard?
Sure is and not a nice car to drive;)

[101RRS]

Didn't he say it came off an Isuzu Frontera B, I guess thats a Holden something out here.


Vauxhall Frontera over here, according to Wikipedia its a Holden Frontera in Australia/New Zealand, or perhaps an Isuzu Wizard?

Thanks - saw that some of the UJs were from a Frontera but missed the other information.

Cheers

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

It actually looks a much more sturdy bevel box than the ones on other forward control vehicles like the Mitsubishi Delica and L300 etc.

I wonder if it could be mounted close to the original SIIB steering box position and ovoid the need to the train of U joints?

[DasLandRoverMan]

Yes it could, I did consider putting the column down through the bottom of the footwell, and if I was doing it again that's probably how it'd happen.
However, as I was working with a freshly galvanised bulkhead (with a new dash attatched) I didn't really want to start sawing it up, hence the double joint at the bottom of the main column.

If it came out through the footwell You'd also be able to keep the servo and brake master under the bonnet.
I went to some trouble reducing the pedal box to make it fit, only to find the servo wanted to be where the column was.

A couple of lessons learned, and improvements to be made if I did it again, hopefully not as limited in terms of cutting and welding by a galvy chassis and bulkhead.

Worth noting that the steering works pretty well with the engine running and power assistance.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yes it could, I did consider putting the column down through the bottom of the footwell, and if I was doing it again that's probably how it'd happen.
However, as I was working with a freshly galvanised bulkhead (with a new dash attatched) I didn't really want to start sawing it up, hence the double joint at the bottom of the main column.

If it came out through the footwell You'd also be able to keep the servo and brake master under the bonnet.
I went to some trouble reducing the pedal box to make it fit, only to find the servo wanted to be where the column was.

A couple of lessons learned, and improvements to be made if I did it again, hopefully not as limited in terms of cutting and welding by a galvy chassis and bulkhead.

Worth noting that the steering works pretty well with the engine running and power assistance.Did you actually manage to keep the defender pedal box, servo and master cylinder on the firewall behind the front panel?

I be really interested in pics if you did. :)

Diana

[DasLandRoverMan]

Kind of...

I modified the pedal box (early 110 type with fairly wide/flat servo) to get the servo far enough down and back to clear the bonnet and stay behind the front panel. I was then going to shorten/reshape the pedal to suit.

However, when I went to test fit I found the servo interfered with the steering column (standard defender setup) so I abandoned that idea as moving the column would involve cutting up the (galvanised) bulkhead.

If you were doing it on a IIB (or with the defender column rerouted) then it'd work nicely.

You might also find some inspiration from this one: Clicky (http://www.muddyweb.com/photo-gallery/land-rover-forward-control-barn-find/)

I've also seen an RRC pedal box hung in the footwell, the top panel cut out and the pedal box hanging in bolted to the front face of the bulkhead at the top, and brackets holding the bottom edge.
This was another coiled FC build on a 110 chassis that the guy got so far with and gave up with it, so it never got a steering setup as the guy couldn't work out how to do it, despite my telling him to run a setup something like what I've built with this truck.
If I can find a picture I'll put it up.

[DasLandRoverMan]

It's nearly finished, it goes, it stops, it steers and in general seems to work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/352.jpg

A few things to finish, such as the front end lights, and screw the cab floors down, followed by strapping an IBC down on the back for its trip to get the body fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/353.jpg

Even a bit of interest about building another with a full top chassis and dropside body for someone else.

[Mick_Marsh]

Excellent work there.
Looking good.

[jakeslouw]

Bloody awesome.

[123rover50]

Yes it could, I did consider putting the column down through the bottom of the footwell, and if I was doing it again that's probably how it'd happen.
However, as I was working with a freshly galvanised bulkhead (with a new dash attatched) I didn't really want to start sawing it up, hence the double joint at the bottom of the main column.

If it came out through the footwell You'd also be able to keep the servo and brake master under the bonnet.
I went to some trouble reducing the pedal box to make it fit, only to find the servo wanted to be where the column was.

A couple of lessons learned, and improvements to be made if I did it again, hopefully not as limited in terms of cutting and welding by a galvy chassis and bulkhead.

Worth noting that the steering works pretty well with the engine running and power assistance.

Notice you have a series 3 dash and firewall.
I rebuilt mine with that as well and with the column going through the hole in the floor the steering wheel was too close to the dash top so I had to use a modified wheel. The PAS I put on it though is the ram assisted type.
I would like to go your way somehow.

[DasLandRoverMan]

A quick update, I've finished my part of the build, and the truck successfully completed a 200 mile run to the owners workplace to have the body built onto it.
A couple of teething issues, and an identified need to put an anti roll bar on the front axle, but generally it works well.

I have a video of it coming out of the workshop which I'll post up when I can get it to upload to YouTube.

Diddiman, this vehicle is all 'Defender' asides the braking system.
You may find that a steering box from a P38 might be an easier fit than the LHD defender box.
Either that or a RHD Defender box bolted to the outside of the chassis?

Obviously the big difference is this build has an extra 4-5 inches of clearance between the chassis and the top frame.
Things are quite tight on a proper FC chassis.

[roobar_and_custard]

Hi DasLandRoverMan,
Any chance you might remember what the splines were on the frontera steering bevel box?
I'm just getting one for my volvo and this info would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Ian.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Can't remember the spline cut, pretty sure it was a 5/8th shaft though, might have been 36 splines.
The company who made the joints said it was a pretty standard one though.

[roobar_and_custard]

Thanks for checking - there are lots of standards... I guess I'll find out when I get my hands on the box.
Out of interest, how was the steering feel on this truck? Smooth and precise?

Cheers.
Ian

[DasLandRoverMan]

Yeah, it worked well enough really, obviously better with the engine running for the power assist to do its job, a bit more weight on the front axle than with a standard 110.

[OneOff]

Would love to see those pictures...

[101RRS]

As he was last on the forum in Nov 17, I dont think there is much chance of hetting the pics.