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Boofrmb
21st December 2012, 12:01 PM
Hi All,

My Warranty on my 2006 TDV6 expires next month (Jan 13), so I am woundering if its worth doing the services from now on by myself,or continue with the dealer, or even half / half. Is there others out there that do their own servicing, and if so where would be the best place to purchase filters, sump plug, etc.

Thanks in advance

Robert

Tombie
21st December 2012, 12:20 PM
I'd suggest getting the LR extended warranty :cool:

Not the easiest to service, but not too bad I wouldnt think if you had the Topix data.

101RRS
21st December 2012, 12:28 PM
See my response on the Disco Uk forum.

TerryO
21st December 2012, 12:51 PM
Agreed I'd get the Alliance extended warranty and not only end up with peace of mind but increased resale value if you decide to sell it within the two year window.

cheers,
Terry

gghaggis
21st December 2012, 01:32 PM
Agreed I'd get the Alliance extended warranty and not only end up with peace of mind but increased resale value if you decide to sell it within the two year window.

cheers,
Terry

From the OP's description (2006 D3), I'd guess that the car is already under an extended warranty. I don't think you can take it out again?

Find a willing indie once a year, if you're not comfortable with the service or cost from a dealer. Intermediate services you can easily do yourself.

Cheers,

Gordon

101RRS
21st December 2012, 03:18 PM
Agreed I'd get the Alliance extended warranty

Don't you mean Allianz rather than Alliance as Alliance does not have a good reputation in the extended warranty field.

Garry

Geedublya
21st December 2012, 04:50 PM
Hi All,

My Warranty on my 2006 TDV6 expires next month (Jan 13), so I am woundering if its worth doing the services from now on by myself,or continue with the dealer, or even half / half. Is there others out there that do their own servicing, and if so where would be the best place to purchase filters, sump plug, etc.

Thanks in advance

Robert

As gghaggis said, do the intermediate services yourself and have a good independent look after it once per year. This is what I do.

Filters and other consumables are available from numerous independent importers. If you look on eBay you will find them as well.

The oil isn't cheap as it has a particular specification. Transfer case oil and e-diff oil is expensive as well. The only thing you can't do without the right gear is reset the service counter.

Resale is an interesting comparison. You have to work out the potential loss against the cost benefit of the savings from doing the work yourself.

In my case I have a high kilometer vehicle which won't be worth much when I sell it anyway. I'm more interested in knowing what has been done and how it was done for my own peace of mind rather than getting more in resale.

Barryp
22nd December 2012, 05:03 AM
When I had my 2006 TDV6 LR3 I did my own servicing every six months (after my 3 year corporate deal expired) without any issues. Nothing beats clean oil to help avoid problems, . Traded it in at Alto last year without any issues and got high end market value. Service indicator was not reset but I had been very carefull to enter every service that I did in the handbook with oil type, K's and date performed recorded in the service book.
Regards
Barryp

Boofrmb
22nd December 2012, 02:30 PM
Thanks All. yep I did have an extended warranty, so cant do it again. the disco after 7 years has only got 35,000km, so not even run in,lol. Have owned 4 classics, 1 p36, and now disco, and almost finished a 48 shorty, so have had a bit to do with land rovers, and yep I do have the computer to diagnose any problem. So prob do a 50/50. And I know the oil is expensive, but so is the coolant.lol

Rob

Barryp
22nd December 2012, 03:07 PM
I did engine oils at 6 months but coolant is scheduled for 10 years based on the LR service schedule. So pretty cheap per year!:D
Regards
Barryp

Boofrmb
23rd December 2012, 06:21 AM
So what oil do you use Barry, I believe the dealer was putting Castrol edgde 5W-30W in the Disco.

Rob

TerryO
23rd December 2012, 07:48 AM
Don't you mean Allianz rather than Alliance as Alliance does not have a good reputation in the extended warranty field.

Garry


Yes I did actually mean to write Allianz Garry thank you for pointing out my lazy typing blunder.


cheers,
Terry

Barryp
23rd December 2012, 05:18 PM
Hi Rob,
I also use Castrol Edge 5-30 which was the recommendation for the LR3 but they have upped the recommendation for the later models to cover cars fitted with DPF's.
Issue is that for the Australian market the DPF isn't fitted by LR (check my post on checking for DPF fitment in your VIN number) so I can't see why we can't use Castrol Edge 5-30 ? :)
Regards
Barryp

Graeme
23rd December 2012, 06:15 PM
My research has revealed that the non-DPF oil has better lubricating qualities, with the DPF compatible oil being a compromise to avoid destroying the DPF.

Barryp
23rd December 2012, 07:22 PM
Hi Graeme,
I agree.
Regards
Barryp

Boofrmb
23rd December 2012, 08:12 PM
Thanks Barry, but find that post, will check again.

Rob

Rich84
24th December 2012, 07:31 AM
Do any of the LR3/D3/RRS have DPF's?? I have bought DPF specific oil that I was going to use next service. Penrite enviro+ 5/30.

I bought my filters from LR last time but if you're organised enough they can be picked up quite cheaply online.

Barryp
24th December 2012, 09:41 AM
Hi Rich84,

PDF Info reproduced below from my earlier post. Not sure if .pdf has copied below.


I have attached the LR VIN Data to tell if you have a PDF fitted, apparently not for Australia. My 2011 RR Sport definately doesn't have one.
In the 5th letter of the VIN on the 3 litre motor, it will be G if a PDF is fitted and an F if no PDF is fitted.
Of course you could also have a look underneath!
Regards
Barryp
Attached Files https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/24.jpg LR Vin Info.pdf (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/53666d1353820836-how-much-oil-lr-vin-info.pdf) (92.6 KB, 15 views)

Rich84
24th December 2012, 09:49 AM
Bummer - thought I had to use it. Oh well, one service isn't going to hurt anything.

I believe the DPF rated oils (ie, VW 507.00 rated) have lower levels of sufated ash and less molybdenum disulphide. Both of which are very good for oil stability and as anti-wear agents.

Barryp
24th December 2012, 09:53 AM
I was pleased to find that mine did not have a DPF as they are just something else to go wrong for little environment benefit. LR probably specify the DPF oil for all models now as a catchall and perhaps more profit from the more expensive oil!
Regards
Barryp

Graeme
24th December 2012, 12:00 PM
Bummer - thought I had to use it. Oh well, one service isn't going to hurt anything.AFAIK the Oz dealers use the DPF-compatible oil in all 3.0s.

Barryp
25th December 2012, 05:36 AM
Yes, no doubt following the UK guideline for DPF fitted vehicles!:o
Regards
Barryp

Graeme
25th December 2012, 06:17 AM
I don't think Castrol have the LR spec non-DPF oil available in Oz.

Barryp
25th December 2012, 08:55 AM
Untill about 12 months ago the Castrol website recommended Castro EDGE 5-30 for the LR TDV6, but it now recommends the higher spec DPF compliant oil for all models!
Regards
Barryp

Barryp
25th December 2012, 09:28 AM
Just checked the Castrol website again and this is what it now says if I have copied it correctly:
2.7 Litre Diesel 2005/6 Castrol Edge 5-30 is an option listed as a footnote.
2.7 Litre Diesel 2007/9 Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5-30
2.7 Litre Diesel 2009/12 Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5-30 but with a footnote saying if unavailable use Castrol Edge 5-30.
3.0 Litre Diesel 2009/12 Castrol Magnatec Professional C1 5-30

Pretty confusing but I note that the 2.7 for 2009/12 is Professional A5 which is changed to the C1 version of Professional for the 3 litre. My understanding is that the C1 category is for DPF vehicles but the DPF isn't fitted for Australia so it beats me!:confused:

Regards
Barryp

Graeme
25th December 2012, 05:20 PM
A DPF was fitted to all the first batch of 3.0 to meet EU5 emissions production quota and some of those came to Oz.

Yes, Cx because of the DPF otherwise Ax for petrol and Bx for diesels.

Edit: Magnatec A5 stated as also meeting B5.

Boofrmb
9th January 2013, 04:30 PM
Thanks All.

Next question, which services are the big ones, that may need a dealer to do, and which are the minor one, which I can do, and save.

Rob

Rich84
10th January 2013, 01:29 PM
The DPF compatible oil may also assist in keeping carbon buildup down in the EGR system, according to some reading I just did. Research ACEA C3 oils.

Boofrmb
10th January 2013, 01:30 PM
Another Question. The D3 hit the 7 yr (84 months)this month. I believe this is a hugh service, new timing belt / tensioner, and every thing else. My question, as my D3 has only done 42,000km, should I do the service, or have it done, knowing I have another 168,000km before the next.
Love some advice.

Reagrds

Rob

101RRS
10th January 2013, 10:28 PM
Likewise my car will also hit the 7 year limit before too long so I would also be interested on views on how important it is to change the cam belts based on time versus kms.

I appreciate belts deteriorate with time however based on my experience with my Freelander belt I am not totally convinced of the importance but then it is not worth the cost of an engine rebuild. Last year I replaced the cam belt on my Freelander - it is done every 80,000km or 4 years and mine was overdue with 100,000km and was done 7 1/2 years (nearly double the time frame) from the previous change which I also did. The belt was not worn at all and looks new.

Also what is the cost of changing the TDV6 two belts, serpentine belt and tensioners etc.

Cheers

Garry

Boofrmb
11th January 2013, 07:55 AM
Garry

I asked the Brisbane Dealer, how much, and for the 84 months service for the D3 was $2100.00

Rob

TerryO
11th January 2013, 08:46 AM
Replacing the timing belt even for some workshops can be interesting, mine was done after a cock up by a workshop while doing some warranty work.

The result was they got it half a tooth out three times in a row with damage done to the engine each time. So after I politely told them after the third time that I didn't want that engine back they replaced it with a brand new crate long engine at great expense to themselves.

All I'm saying is unless your really sure you know exactly what your doing personally I wouldn't be in a hurry to change the timing belt myself.

cheers,
Terry

Graeme
11th January 2013, 10:28 AM
The result was they got it half a tooth out three times in a row with damage done to the engine each time.
Do you know if they used the LR kit that locks the shafts? Changing the camshaft belt without using the kit is a recipe for disaster but perhaps even using the kit is no guarantee of getting it right.

Edit: I wouldn't be changing belts so far short of the recommended kms.

TerryO
11th January 2013, 10:32 AM
Sorry no I don't know Graeme.

cheers,
Terry

Rich84
11th January 2013, 01:43 PM
How did they manage to get a timing belt half a tooth out??

I've changed several v6 timing belts without locking tools. If you mark everything up and ensure it's lined up before, during and after the belt goes on and is tensioned, then turn the engine manually 2 full rotations to ensure no collision, there's no problem. I can't believe workshops don't do this? Too much $$$ to take risks!

Boofrmb
11th January 2013, 02:08 PM
At least if the dealer stuffs up, it comes under the 12 month warranty, if you do it your self, bummer.

Rob

Rich84
11th January 2013, 03:27 PM
It's the risk we all take. I have had nothing but bad results taking my cars to workshops be worked on. That's what got me started on the self servicing. Admittedly I was wet behind the ears when this all started and didn't have the balls to call them on their dodgy work.

My last big job I saved $10K by doing a twin turbo and clutch install job on my Audi S4. Solitaire quoted $15K to do the work. I just sold the car for $21K!! It's an engine out job. About 30-40 hours labour. It took me 45 as I had other things to do while I had it out. I was also able to source larger intercoolers, a new seal kit, upgraded engine mounts and a much better clutch kit and still stay under $5k.

I find it also keeps me challenged - I don't know a lot about diesel cars but I am very keen to learn and see how maintaining the RRS goes. So far some of the servicing (ie turbo replacement) looks a bit scary and I am contemplating purchasing a 2 poster for any body off work that may need doing :beer:

I currently have her in pieces replacing the alternator and I will be doing the timing belt either this or next weekend - I'll post pics up to let you know how I went.

101RRS
11th January 2013, 03:40 PM
I currently have her in pieces replacing the alternator and I will be doing the timing belt either this or next weekend - I'll post pics up to let you know how I went.

Are you doing the rear belt as well?

Garry

Ean Austral
11th January 2013, 05:47 PM
There is a how to on the disco3 uk site and looks quite detailed so would be worth a look if you want an idea on what's involved. I think there is a how to do the fuel pump belt as well

Cheers Ean

Graeme
11th January 2013, 06:15 PM
I am contemplating purchasing a 2 poster for any body off work that may need doingHow much would you expect to pay? Its not the sort of equipment that springs to mind for home maintenance but you've caught my interest.

TerryO
15th January 2013, 07:42 AM
Hi Graeme,

If you check out eBay you will find plenty of new two post hoists from $1900 to low 3k's.

There are serval second hand examples on there right now for a lot less as well.

cheers,
Terry

Rich84
15th January 2013, 11:32 AM
I spotted a nice molnar 2 poster on ebay yesterday for $3k second hand.