Glove box adjustment...any tips?

[PeterH]

After doing my blend motor a couple of days ago, I got everything back together ok, all except for one thing.
For the life of me I can't get the glovebox to stay closed.
I have tried adjusting the hinge bolts at the bottom of the glovebox, with no effect.
I'm pretty sure I have the latch release installed correctly.
The box just won't latch closed.
Any tips on this one?
Thanks, Pete.

[PeterH]

Got it!
As it turned out, the two metal locking latches that drop down when the glovebox is closed were slightly sticking, so they were only falling half way down and not engaging properly, preventing the door from latching.
I squirted some graphite powder into the moving parts and pushed them in and out a bit to free them up, which got the left side of the door latching.
The top of the glove box door was sticking out more on the right hand side where it had not latched, it looked out of alignment with the top panel, so a bit of an adustment to the hinge bolts at the bottomof the door and now it's latching properly once again.
I came across this bit of info too:
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/cjmiddleton/Glovebox-Rattle1.jpg

Might be of help to someone.
Cheers, Pete.

[Hoges]

Hi Pete...timely question!
Same issue;)... I'm pretty sure it's a problem with the effective length of the inner cable...needs to be longer to allow the latch to catch properly...

First thing is that the hinge bolts at the bottomn of the glovebox are not much use for adjustment of the lock...

If you have the glovebox out of the vehicle, look along the top and there's a place for the latch mechanism on each end, depending on whether it's LH/RH drive...

The white section in the black plastic "square" shroud on the end of the cable hooks over a V section in the brass rod which runs the width of the glovebox ...you've no doubt seen that.

My advice is to firstly "zero" the long screws at the bottom of the glovebox hinge with an Allen key

Remove the burl trim strip from the dashboard . There are four long screw threads which need to be levered out. There are plastic "doovers" which will come out as well. These need to be removed from the threaded rod and put back first into the holes before the burl panel can be replaced.

Have a look at Rave, undo the 2 screws holding the lock/latch mechanism in place and pull it out the front of the panel. No need to take the barrel out of the lock. On the back of the lock is the mechanism for adjusting the length of the latch cable.

Now for the tricky part: If you can't get the latch to lock it may be that the white section which catches the V section in the latch rod has been put back in front of the V (towards the engine), so it's not catching it. Alternatively, the cable is not allowed sufficient slack to enable the catch to close over fully.

I extended the effective length of the inner cable by adjusting the screw mechanism at the rear of the lock. This allowed the white section to protrude further down its black plastic shroud... until I heard a solid click when I shut the box and was able to free the lid from the box when I depressed the button.

I adjusted the cable length in conjunction with the two deeply recessed (phillips head) adjustment screws in the front of the glove box which determine the gap between the burl panel and the lid so that there's now a gap, the width of just a credit card (well, maybe two credit cards!) instead of the width of a finger!! Once I had it all working I just screwed the lock and glovebox assemblies respectively back into place and replaced the burl panel. Yolu may need to carefully manoevre the lock to centralise it when aligning the opening in the burl panel over it.

Hope this helps

[DaveKelly]

If someone has picking this up and is struggling - Do as Hoges recommends above.
Remove the burl trim strip from the dashboard . There are four long screw threads which need to be levered out. There are plastic "doovers" which will come out as well. These need to be removed from the threaded rod and put back first into the holes before the burl panel can be replaced.

Have a look at Rave, undo the 2 screws holding the lock/latch mechanism in place and pull it out the front of the panel. No need to take the barrel out of the lock. On the back of the lock is the mechanism for adjusting the length of the latch cable.

I put my glove box in and out three times before I gave up, came inside and read his notes! :twisted: Getting the burl strip off can be a bit of a mission - I used my plastic body trim removal tools to prise it off.

Took me no more that 5 minutes to do it 'properly'. Thanks Hoges :)

SLOW LEARNER SOMETIMES! :p