Defender rust, a warning for those who don't have it yet

[newhue]

Now if you like me I’m a first time owner of a Defender, and I’d imagine a Tdci is no different from the models before. I have heard in a Tdci the doors frames are zinc coated with an alloy skin. I have also heard the doors are steel these days, full stop. Solihull have not confirmed this yet for me.

I just so happen to have a Tdi in the yard that has been killed by rust. And thought for all Defer owners, particularly the Tdci’s who don’t have rust yet, I’d post some pics. I for one will be pulling my door skins off and shooting plenty more cavity wax or similar around the place. And the other spots on the fire wall and around the place. I’d imagine the bottoms of the A and B pillar are also worth a look over.

I have also noticed, the rear cross members before the rear coils on these trucks, is a good place to collect mud, and not obvious to clean. Around the forward and rear gussets onto of top of the chassis. Mud deposits there, gets wet, and takes a long time to dry.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/998/78470256.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/826/78470256.jpg/)

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1884/87324126.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/688/87324126.jpg/)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8072/71400769.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/71400769.jpg/)

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6075/77770900.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/248/77770900.jpg/)

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4310/73108307.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/73108307.jpg/)

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1954/95187761.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/95187761.jpg/)

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2963/42793031.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/42793031.jpg/)

[rick130]

So far I've been very, very lucky as mine's lived all its life well away from any sea/salt/brine, but six months ago it spent five weeks camped at the beach......

[tonic]

Yep, took me 2 years to find one without rust or with litle rust. Still spent near 2k fixing rust after I bought the one I have. The one in the photo looks like one they tried to sell me for $15,000 because he said it was a 300tdi and they are the best. We argued about the rust and I offered him 2k in the end. Did it come from around ANZ stadium in behind the Aldi?

[ugu80]

I have also heard the doors are steel these days, full stop. Solihull have not confirmed this yet for me.

Easy. Will a magnet stick to the door skin?

[newhue]

Tonic, down northern NSW buy the sea side.
Of course lots of beach work will accelerate the cancer, but a dousing of prevention may keep it at bay for many many years I'm hoping.
It seems to be a common problem with older Landies. They get used a lot, live out doors a lot, poor things don't have much of a chance in many cases.

[newhue]

Easy. Will a magnet stick to the door skin?

oh deer, just used one of the kids woeful alphabet magnets on the doors, stuck all over the place :eek:

[landcol]

Very timely thread as I'm having this problem right now! Didn't actually realize defenders were do prone. Been a bit oblivious I guess

[tonic]

Tonic, down northern NSW buy the sea side.
Of course lots of beach work will accelerate the cancer, but a dousing of prevention may keep it at bay for many many years I'm hoping.



I'm hoping too, sprayed the whole inside of the doors with rust proventer, well the panel guys did when they did the doors. I intend to keep this one for some time so am even considering buying new doors 1 at a time over the next few years. The firewall and underneath are good and I keep them sprayed with sheep oil:D

[Reads90]

Not a new problem. Just Australia does not suffer rust as bad as the uk.

Manily because they put salt on the roads in the uk

But all Land Rover parts companies do replacement parts that are needed because of rust. Just some of them. Bulkhead repair kits ( replaces from top corner bit where the top door hinge is right down to the chassis ), foot wells , doors frames ( Pre Puma panel Ali but steel frames), rear cross members are few yearly replacement item on defenders in the Uk , chassis hangers both sides front and year and front legs on the chassis ( where the bumper bolts to). Just a few things that will get replaced on a defender in the uk. All the time.

The problem I have had in Australia with my imported defender is the window channel has rusted. ( normal thing in the uk so replacement part) this means the window when it goes down it falls out of the channel and won't come back up. Been to MR and other land rover companies in Qld and all have looked at me with a tilted head and say why would you need to replace that , and when I say it has rusted they say what nah never had that before. So I can't get one so working on getting one imported.

BUT this is not only defenders but also RRC and Discos. In the uk you will find it very very hard to find and Disco 1 or RRC that will pass a roadworthy due to rust. Mainly rear floors, doors , top and bottom tailgates on RRC ( in fact so bad in the uk top and bottom tailgates for RRC command serious money if you can even find one ) . Sills and inner wings.

RRC are getting very very hard to find in the uk because most have rusted away. Last year at billing a 2 door RRC with no engine and left hooker sold for £10,000 just because the body had little rust

[manic]

Funny the amount of times I have had people here in Aus comment on the galvanised bits on my landy. 'You don't need to do that over here in Australia' they say... ha!

For my doors I used Dinitrol which comes in spray cans and a long extension hose to feed into all the nooks and crannys - great stuff.

Also with the old style rear doors - perhaps new ones also - water gets in through the latch handle recess. The evidence was clear when looking at my old rotten rear door. Water gets into the recess and then down into the door along the inside of the frame - rusting it out. I'm considering a flap to cover the recess. Also good idea to add a silicone bead around the outside edge of the window (older rear door) - can be done to look neat with masking tape.

[camel_landy]

Not a new problem. Just Australia does not suffer rust as bad as the uk.

Manily because they put salt on the roads in the uk

But all Land Rover parts companies do replacement parts that are needed because of rust. Just some of them. Bulkhead repair kits ( replaces from top corner bit where the top door hinge is right down to the chassis ), foot wells , doors frames ( Pre Puma panel Ali but steel frames), rear cross members are few yearly replacement item on defenders in the Uk , chassis hangers both sides front and year and front legs on the chassis ( where the bumper bolts to). Just a few things that will get replaced on a defender in the uk. All the time.

The problem I have had in Australia with my imported defender is the window channel has rusted. ( normal thing in the uk so replacement part) this means the window when it goes down it falls out of the channel and won't come back up. Been to MR and other land rover companies in Qld and all have looked at me with a tilted head and say why would you need to replace that , and when I say it has rusted they say what nah never had that before. So I can't get one so working on getting one imported.

BUT this is not only defenders but also RRC and Discos. In the uk you will find it very very hard to find and Disco 1 or RRC that will pass a roadworthy due to rust. Mainly rear floors, doors , top and bottom tailgates on RRC ( in fact so bad in the uk top and bottom tailgates for RRC command serious money if you can even find one ) . Sills and inner wings.

RRC are getting very very hard to find in the uk because most have rusted away. Last year at billing a 2 door RRC with no engine and left hooker sold for £10,000 just because the body had little rust

Wot he said... ^^^^

The salty conditions just eat the cars from the inside out. Then if you don't clean your chassis, the mud that gathers just soaks up the salt into the water and eats it away even faster... Including the brake lines!!!

M

[newhue]

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.

[Chops]

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.

It's quite an easy task to have something Gal Coated prior to assembly, you'd think with the problems that have, it'd be a no brainer for them (LR). It may even help with alignment issues ;)

So is a good coating of something like Lanotec/Inox (?) the way to go? I'm certainly looking to keep mine for a very long time, and I'm hopeing I'll get my fair share of beach driving in :)

[rick130]

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.


It's quite an easy task to have something Gal Coated prior to assembly, you'd think with the problems that have, it'd be a no brainer for them (LR). It may even help with alignment issues ;)

So is a good coating of something like Lanotec/Inox (?) the way to go? I'm certainly looking to keep mine for a very long time, and I'm hopeing I'll get my fair share of beach driving in :)

According to my ex-LRA engineer mate, the wax injection inside the chassis was pretty damned good back in the nineties, but that doesn't help the electrolysis between steel and aluminium or the bulkhead itself.

The Dinitrol Manic mentioned looks interesting.
I think I'll be chasing it up.

[scarry]

Very timely thread as I'm having this problem right now! Didn't actually realize defenders were do prone. Been a bit oblivious I guess

And the Puma is also a shocker.The actual paint on the chassis is so thin it is unbelievable,and it appears to be just one coat.:(

[Babs]

Great, something else for me to start worrying about before it even happens. What is going go to be better this Dinitrol stuff or Lanotec spray?

There is bloody dust coming in from every panel joint inside, the panel under second row seat leaks dust and when I pressure washed the truck it blew all the mud inside, there is obviously dry muck in between the panels and it also seems to be coming in from the rear wheel arch down inside the inside of the truck. Pic attached


54835

What's the best way to clean this out and seal it up?
I was thinking of Sikaflexing the joints will this be a good option?

Also will this cause rust? The dust trapped between panels that is.

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[Marty110]

Had my 300Tdi for 13 years and 300k including beach driving. Had a electronic rust preventer and after every trip washed down everything - get to know where all the traps are for mud etc in and around the chasis and wash it out. As a soil surveyor (dig lots of holes) I had to pressure wash after every job so as not to transport soil. So good maintenance and maybe an electronic rust thingy??? Worked for me, mine had no rust anywhere when I sold it.

[manic]

I used Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can with an extension nozzle - great to work with!

I was in the UK at the time but there may be a product equally as good here in Aus, or can you get Dinitrol over here? You cant order pressurized cans from abroad :(

[scarry]

We use Tectyl,a Valvoline product,it seems to work well,is available at Autobarn,in 4litre tins.The spraycans are not very good,and expensive.

[Babs]

Ok I'm starting a thread on the electronic rust preventers.

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[Michael2]

Fibreglass Defender doors are now available from the UK, also available for Series Land Rovers.

I'd like to see someone take a sheet of 4mm aluminium and press a complete door, then use aluminium U channel to form the "frame" for everything to bolt onto. But the Fibreglass option looks pretty good.

Welcome - A. M. A. Services (http://www.amaservices.biz/#/shop/4566748776/Land-Rover-Defender-(Push-button-handle)-Full-sized-doors/2950797)

[mike_ie]

Fibreglass Defender doors are now available from the UK, also available for Series Land Rovers.

I'd like to see someone take a sheet of 4mm aluminium and press a complete door, then use aluminium U channel to form the "frame" for everything to bolt onto. But the Fibreglass option looks pretty good.

Welcome - A. M. A. Services (http://www.amaservices.biz/#/shop/4566748776/Land-Rover-Defender-(Push-button-handle)-Full-sized-doors/2950797)

£500 per door????!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

[Michael2]

£500 per door????!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

My insurance company replaced two of my doors after someone scraped past them. It cost over $1,000ea and that did not include the internals or glass. So the fibreglass doors are no more expensive, though I agree both are too expensive.

[cewilson]

That's not a bad idea. Might take my sliders off and wait for someone to run into my doors and claim them on insurance :)

[the_preacher1973]

£500 per door????!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

From the link above:



*Sold as Pair. Quality GRP doors, supplied as bare shells, in
White gel coat, ready for primer/ spraying.

[newhue]

Great, something else for me to start worrying about before it even happens. What is going go to be better this Dinitrol stuff or Lanotec spray?
SNIP


About 6 months ago I used Lanotec down the A and B pillars, in the bolt holes around the windscreen (fake) hinge, and in the rubber plugs near then wind screen wipers.
It was easy to work with however I have noticed from other areas I applied it, it can be washed off with pressured water or easily wiped off. Perhaps in a no access cavity it isn't a concern, but I'm guessing now I have used something that doesn't set/dry I will have to re coat it again in the same or similar product.

[ugu80]

It was easy to work with however I have noticed from other areas I applied it, it can be washed off with pressured water or easily wiped off. Perhaps in a no access cavity it isn't a concern, but I'm guessing now I have used something that doesn't set/dry I will have to re coat it again in the same or similar product.

Lanotec doesn't set, it just stays sticky and gradually fades away. You will have to reapply it, every 12 - 18 months. I don't use a lot of energy cleaning my Defender (1995 model). After every trip it gets every hole and crevice thoroughly hosed out until only clear water runs, a drive around the block to dry out and every 18 months or so I drown every hole, crevice, crack, joint, join and the whole firewall (inside and out) with up to 2 litres of lanotec. It lives outside and is allergic to soap and polish. There is not the slightest hint of rust anywhere on the vehicle.

[mike_ie]

From the link above:

Thats actually not bad then. as it turns out, I know (not very well) the guy who's making them. He's working on the moulds for the rear side doors, and the back door as we speak...

[460cixy]

Would the earlier style series doors with out the door tops fit a defender?

[mike_ie]

Would the earlier style series doors with out the door tops fit a defender?

AFAIK, the doors will bolt straight up - you may have to change the door strikers though.