Lucky 8's Project P38

[FiveSPDDisco]

I may have lost my mind but....... L8s new full on project truck will be a 2000 P38.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/190.jpg

The P38 is one of my favorite looking Rover products. I love the classic folds in the hood, low roofline, proper tailgate and 4dot6 motor.
Unfortunately this is where the good ends and all that can be evil about a Rover begins. These 3 letter strike fear into any P38 owner " BCM "and if that was not scary enough we have "EAS" to keep them company.

The goal for this project is to have it ready to handle the Easter Trip with out failure. See video below.

Lucky 8 Easter Expedition 2011 Trailer - YouTube

Here is a quick run down of the things I have in store for this endeavor.
3-5 in lift
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires
Front and rear bumpers
Sliders
Front and rear lockers
Ok That was the easy stuff. This is were things will get interesting
HD drag link and track rod
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how.
HD rear shaft
HD CV and shafts " this maybe a pipe dream"
Water proof the BCM
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run"

Any suggestions from you guys with more seat time in these trucks? What would you like to see made available for P38?

[Keithy P38]

I'll watch this thread with interest! Sounds like a good project to me, and something that will challenge you greatly!

Things that will be very helpful if made available to us within a reasonable price range would be the becm disconnection and waterproofing of the ecu's.

If anyone was to make a cheap kit up I think they'd sell.

Good luck mate!

[benji]

I'll be keeping a close eye on this one too.

With the failsafe electronic disconnect, it wouldn't be hard to install a boat type master switch in the main feed that goes to the fuse box.

A few years ago, a team for a French ralle moved the BECM into box in the rear of the roof.

The ABS and EAS computers are waterproof allready, though water may be able to creep up the loom and ecter through the pin connectors.

Have you any ideas about locking the transercase?

[FANTOM P38]

All sounds great, will watch with interest!
How about a underdrive for transfer case? I know Ashcroft do them for other Land Rover Transfers but nut not the P38 that would be real value.
Good luck with your project P38 please keep us up to date with progress.
To achieve 5" lift is easy using Arnotts Gen III bags and 2" lift kit available from Hard Range in Australia There are a few of here running this setup & it works well plus will allow 33" tires with no problem

[PaulP38a]

Hard Range is discontinuing the 2" spacer lift for the P38 so it would be great to see Lucky 8 offer it with the addition of modified/new front radius arms and rear trailing arms that compensate for diff rotation.

How about a snorkel/raised air intake? The Hard Range Snorkel/RAI is too big to ship overseas unless it is cut/sleeved. This will probably be discontinued in the near future also, so an opportunity for Lucky 8 to supply all those folks in the US and Europe that I have had to decline.

Wiring harness(es) to relocate the BeCM to a higher location would be great.

The electrical kill-switch on the dash is another must-have for water ingress.

Diff/transmission/fog lamp breather kit.

I will think of more unfinished/unfulfilled projects later and post.

Best wishes guys, it will be great to see more of your gear available for the P38... particularly if you can ship to Australia at a reasonable rate.

Cheers, Paul.

[mtb_gary]

Ditto to the updates along the way (with pictures of course). It sounds like an interesting project. Do you have a budget for the project?
Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

Thank you everybody for the words of encouragement. I heard that the OZ market was way ahead of the world with the P38 and by the reply have received I believe it.

[FiveSPDDisco]

The ABS and EAS computers are waterproof allready,

I did not know that. Thank you.




Have you any ideas about locking the transercase?

We have a few plans for this. One is cheap the other is very expensive.

[FiveSPDDisco]

How about a underdrive for transfer case? I know Ashcroft do them for other Land Rover \

That would be nice but I do not see the market for. As it stands I cannot get people to pay less money for an electronic locking transfer case.

[FiveSPDDisco]

How about a snorkel/raised air intake? The Hard Range Snorkel/RAI is too big to ship overseas

Can you post a picture of this ?

I was on your site some time ago but could not fid a picture.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Do you have a budget for the project?


I am trying to keep it like a normal build. Suspension armor and lockers.

[benji]

We have a few plans for this. One is cheap the other is very expensive.
I assume the cheap one is an LT230Q rotated 90 degrees? And the expensive one may be desgning a locker to go in the BW?

[benji]

I tried PMing this to you; just food for thought.

[PaulP38a]

Can you post a picture of this ?

I was on your site some time ago but could not fid a picture.

as requested
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
and
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

If you try to fit it inside the guard, you won't get enough air flow.

more pics at http://paulp38a.com/gallery/v/99RR/2012_pics/

[Keithy P38]

Paul - you washed the Rangie!

[FiveSPDDisco]

I assume the cheap one is an LT230Q rotated 90 degrees? And the expensive one may be desgning a locker to go in the BW?


You would have to clock the LT230 180 deg this would put all of the shift linkage on the bottom and exposed to damage.

[FiveSPDDisco]

I tried PMing this to you; just food for thought.

?????? I did not get anything

[FiveSPDDisco]

as requested
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/6287-1/Queanbeyan-20120129-00602.jpg
and
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/6338-1/IMG_0112.JPG

If you try to fit it inside the guard, you won't get enough air flow.

more pics at 2012 Pics (http://paulp38a.com/gallery/v/99RR/2012_pics/)

Thank you sir. And by the guard do you mean Wing? Or as we say in the US fender?

[FiveSPDDisco]

P38 project update.
We may have bitten off more than we can chew.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/665.jpg

The 305/70/16 tires appear to be slightly larger than what the stock wheel wells will allow for. Either way we are going to give it our best effort.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/68.jpg

Terrafirma has sent over a few suspension kits and the first set of prototype shock should be with us on Monday.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/69.jpg

The next thing to do is the install and see where she sits.

Poser shot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/70.jpg

[PaulP38a]

Paul - you washed the Rangie!
maybe, or it could just be an illusion of the light :p


Thank you sir. And by the guard do you mean Wing? Or as we say in the US fender?

front left guard/wing/fender/quarter panel... yep.

[PaulP38a]

P38 project update.
We may have bitten off more than we can chew.

The 305/70/16 tires appear to be slightly larger than what the stock wheel wells will allow for. Either way we are going to give it our best effort.



all doable - see the pic below where my mate has cut his guard/fender and rear door to accommodate bigger rubber.

I think you will need to do a lot of chopping to stop the 305's from scrubbing on articulation. One of the many things I like about the 255/85R16 BFG KM2's on mine is that they tuck up nicely on articulation at standard EAS height (with 2" lift).

http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/6376-2/IMG_0136.JPG

[mtb_gary]

Paul, sorry to digress from the post, but is that a custom ladder on the back of your car or an "off the shelf unit? What I'm thinking is using it for easier access to put the spare wheel on/off the roof.
Gary

[jbell110]

what size treads on the silver one with flares ??

Jeff

[PaulP38a]

Paul, sorry to digress from the post, but is that a custom ladder on the back of your car or an "off the shelf unit? What I'm thinking is using it for easier access to put the spare wheel on/off the roof.
Gary

Contact Scotty at socalusedroverparts.com in California. It is based on the Safety Devices ladder. Works very well.

Jbell110 - I am pretty sure Pete is running 35" tyres on his castrated P38. Will ask when I speak with him next, or he can comment if he is lurking.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Thank you Paul

[FiveSPDDisco]

Contact Scotty at socalusedroverparts.com in California. It is based on the Safety Devices ladder. Works very well.


Paul
Thank you for the lead.
I spoke with Scott today. He was super nice and a extremely knowledgeable. Even better news he's agreed to help us try and divorce the BECM from the ECU

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update

It was a fun weekend at the shop test fitting multiple combinations of springs to achieve a lift large enough lift to fit the new tires.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1439.jpg

The end result was a 5-inch lift over standard ride height.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1440.jpg

Believe it or not the tires only measure out to 32.5s on the truck at 30 psi.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1441.jpg

To fit the 33's we will have to trim but for now I'm going to live with it and see what real-world ill side effects occur.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1442.jpg

We took it through this tiny little mud puddle and as you can see the truck behaves fine and even shows promise of a little bit of flex.

p38 test 1 - YouTube

You'll notice on this little dirt hill the front comes down and absorbs the bump without any issues but the rear looks like it wants to bounce I think that the rear shocks need to be valved better to handle the extra height and soon weight.

p38 test 2 - YouTube

Tires rub a little ;)

and the Poser shot with the new lift and tires.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1443.jpg

[Keithy P38]

Coming along quite nicely there! Looks good with the big tyres!

[rovercare]

Labtronx Home (http://www.labtronx.com.au/)

This guy Lee, was going to sort out my stuff when I was going to build an LS engined P38, knows his stuff

He has a Box for BCM on Gems, that sorts the rolling code, can do anything, he used to do all the P38 conversions that went to the UAE

Lee is fantastic, I think he is originally a seppo aswell

Shame I never went ahead, but Duramax had more appeal

[PaulP38a]

The P38 is looking good, love those rims. Shame about the coil conversion castration though.

With the 33" tyres, you get a 2" lift over standard, so I am guessing the extra 3" is due to the coils?

How is the angle on the rear prop shaft? I'd be thinking about a double cardan joint to reduce some of the strain on the UJ's.

[billy bob]

What sort of flares were used on the silver one in post 21 after the guards were cut?

[PaulP38a]

What sort of flares were used on the silver one in post 21 after the guards were cut?

RRC I think he said.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Coming along quite nicely there! Looks good with the big tyres!

Thank you

[FiveSPDDisco]

Labtronx Home (http://www.labtronx.com.au/)

This guy Lee, was going to sort out my stuff when I was going to build an LS engined P38, knows his stuff

He has a Box for BCM on Gems, that sorts the rolling code, can do anything, he used to do all the P38 conversions that went to the UAE

Lee is fantastic, I think he is originally a seppo aswell

Shame I never went ahead, but Duramax had more appeal

Sent them an Email and ill let you know what they say.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Shame about the coil conversion castration though.



I'm very happy to be rid of that suspension. I prefer the reliability factor of the coils over the adjustability of the air



With the 33" tyres, you get a 2" lift over standard, so I am guessing the extra 3" is due to the coils?


It is a 5 inch suspension lift over standard height plus the tires. She is getting tall

[FiveSPDDisco]

What sort of flares were used on the silver one in post 21 after the guards were cut?

I don't know about the flares he used, but disco 2 flares have the same cut for the body as the P38

[p38oncoils]

I'm very happy to be rid of that suspension. I prefer the reliability factor of the coils over the adjustability of the air



It is a 5 inch suspension lift over standard height plus the tires. She is getting tall

My P38 has a bit over 3 inch lift and is on 32.8 inch tyres (285 75 16 which has the same diameter as your 305 70 16 tyres) giving it a bit over 5 inch total lift. Comparing the pictures of your vehicle to mine, your's seems to have about the same amount of lift so the I think that PaulP38A is pretty much on the ball with the total amount of lift that he suggests on your car. With a 5 inch suspension lift you will have to go to a double cardan driveshaft joint or the vehicle will be undrivable due to vibration. You may prove me wrong but I suspect the double cardan joint would have difficulty with a 5 inch suspension lift.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Labtronx Home (http://www.labtronx.com.au/)

This guy Lee, was going to sort out my stuff when I was going to build an LS engined P38, knows his stuff



They got back to me and said they can only do GEMS computers. Looks like we still need so IT help.

[FiveSPDDisco]

My P38 has a bit over 3 inch lift and is on 32.8 inch tyres (285 75 16 which has the same diameter as your 305 70 16 tyres) giving it a bit over 5 inch total lift. Comparing the pictures of your vehicle to mine, your's seems to have about the same amount of lift so the I think that PaulP38A is pretty much on the ball with the total amount of lift that he suggests on your car. With a 5 inch suspension lift you will have to go to a double cardan driveshaft joint or the vehicle will be undrivable due to vibration. You may prove me wrong but I suspect the double cardan joint would have difficulty with a 5 inch suspension lift.


We just went off of a P38 that was sitting on stock air suspension for our standard height mark. Does anybody know what the correct measurement is from Land Rover?
Just for giggles let's do a comparison between our two trucks. From the center of the rim to the bottom of the fender in the front and in the rear what are you getting?

Now take a level across the top of your tire to the ground what measurement do you get?

Ill do the same

[PaulP38a]

We just went off of a P38 that was sitting on stock air suspension for our standard height mark. Does anybody know what the correct measurement is from Land Rover?
Just for giggles let's do a comparison between our two trucks. From the center of the rim to the bottom of the fender in the front and in the rear what are you getting?

Now take a level across the top of your tire to the ground what measurement do you get?

Ill do the same

EAS Standard Mode height for a stock P38 is approx 470mm from centre of wheel cap to underside of the guard/fender, measured at a front corner. Rears should be 10-20mm higher.

Mine is approx 520mm on EAS Standard Mode, or 940mm from the ground to underside of the guard. EAS High Mode is approx 570mm.

Unlike your castrated P38's, I can drop mine down to 410mm to allow access in to car parks and garages (as long as I don't want to steer in any direction other than straight) :p

Cheers, Paul.

[p38oncoils]

We just went off of a P38 that was sitting on stock air suspension for our standard height mark. Does anybody know what the correct measurement is from Land Rover?
Just for giggles let's do a comparison between our two trucks. From the center of the rim to the bottom of the fender in the front and in the rear what are you getting?

Now take a level across the top of your tire to the ground what measurement do you get?

Ill do the same

I measured as you requested from the centre of the rim up to the liner at the top of the wheel well on the front axle and the measurement there is 21.85” (555mm). I then measured from the centre of the rim up to the liner at the top of the wheel well on the rear axle and the measurement there is 22.36” (568mm). Finally I measured with a level from the top of the tyre to the ground with 36psi pressure in the tyres and a full tank of fuel and the measurement there is 31.89” (810mm).

I haven't found a measurement from Land Rover but on Alan Bates' website (tech articles (http://www.rockrover.com/techarticles.htm)) he states that “According to Atlantic British, the height of a P38 in standard ride height with stock tires measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well is 31-3/4” in the front, and 32” in the rear.”

If I measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well as Alan Bates suggests then the measurements from the ground to the top of the wheel well are 37.2” (945mm) on the front axle and 37.8” (960mm) on the rear axle. If we then subtract the measurement of a standard ride height with stock tyres then we get a total lift of 5.4” (138mm) on the front of my vehicle and 5.8' (147mm) on the rear. Subtracting the radius of the 255 65 16 tyre which is 14.5” (369mm) from the 285 75 16 tyre which is 16.4” (417mm) giving us a tyre lift on the vehicle of 1.89” (48mm) which gives us a measurement of 3.54' (90mm) spring lift on the front axle and a 3.9” (99mm) spring lift on the rear axle.

For those of you that read the post about the initial lift of the vehicle, I have since given the vehicle a bit more lift. :angel:

Below is a picture of the "castrated" beast (according to PaulP38a :wasntme:) for reference and comparison.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1247.jpg

[Keithy P38]

When I get home ill measure mine in high. Probably wont come close to those numbers but will give me an idea of how much lift my tyres and programming have netted me!

[FiveSPDDisco]

EAS Standard Mode height for a stock P38 is approx 470mm from centre of wheel cap to underside of the guard/fender, measured at a front corner. Rears should be 10-20mm higher.

Cheers, Paul.

Thank you for posting. HHmmmm very interesting. I'll post my results up in a second

[FiveSPDDisco]

I measured as you requested from the centre of the rim up to the liner at the top of the wheel well on the front axle and the measurement there is 21.85” (555mm). I then measured from the centre of the rim up to the liner at the top of the wheel well on the rear axle and the measurement there is 22.36” (568mm). Finally I measured with a level from the top of the tyre to the ground with 36psi pressure in the tyres and a full tank of fuel and the measurement there is 31.89” (810mm).


Thank you very much for doing this. Take a look at my results

[FiveSPDDisco]

Below is a picture of the "castrated" beast (according to PaulP38a :wasntme:) for reference and comparison.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/p38oncoils-albums-p38oncoils-picture4041-levuka.jpg

We put some 32s on the L8 P38 and these trucks look very similar. I'll post those pictures up soon

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project help please

If anybody has access to a P38 with stock suspension could you take some measurements for us?
I would love to know the measurements in standard mode from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender front and rear please.

This is what we currently have on our project.
The front
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1244.jpg
21.5 inches

The rear
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1245.jpg
22 inches.

Just for reference the 305/70/16 tires on the truck
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1246.jpg
32 3/4 inches

Thank you for your help

[p38oncoils]

Project help please

If anybody has access to a P38 with stock suspension could you take some measurements for us?
I would love to know the measurements in standard mode from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender front and rear please.



I took the liberty of converting the metric measurements that PaulP38a gave in his post to imperial measurements (in brackets). Regards, Omar

According to PaulP38a: "EAS Standard Mode height for a stock P38 is approx 470mm (18.5") from centre of wheel cap to underside of the guard/fender, measured at a front corner. Rears should be 10-20mm higher." (+10mm = 480mm is 18.9". +20mm = 490mm is 19.3")

"Mine is approx 520mm (20.47") on EAS Standard Mode, or 940mm (37") from the ground to underside of the guard. EAS High Mode is approx 570mm (22.44").

Unlike your castrated P38's, I can drop mine down to 410mm (16.14") to allow access in to car parks and garages (as long as I don't want to steer in any direction other than straight)

Cheers, Paul."

[PaulP38a]

I haven't found a measurement from Land Rover but on Alan Bates' website (tech articles (http://www.rockrover.com/techarticles.htm)) he states that “According to Atlantic British, the height of a P38 in standard ride height with stock tires measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well is 31-3/4” in the front, and 32” in the rear.”


It's only been 43 years since Australia converted to the Metric system but we can do it that way for fun :D

Atlantic British either have been misinformed or NAS P38's have smaller OD tyres than Australian... but I don't think so.
29" (737mm) tyres were standard on Australian P38's, so on EAS Standard Mode the distance from ground to bottom of wheel arch/fender is 33" (838mm).

To recap what has been covered may times before, for a stock P38:
EAS Standard Mode is 18.5" (470mm) from centre of wheel cap to underside of front wheel arch/fender, therefore 33" ground to underside of wheel arch;
EAS Access Mode is 2.56" (65mm) below Standard;
EAS Low/Highway Mode is 1" (25mm) below Standard;
EAS High/Wading Mode is 1.57" (40mm) above Standard.

So, in response to FiveSPDisco's request, the measurements you want are:
At EAS Standard Height, distance between centre of wheel cap and underside of wheel arch - 18.5" front, 18.8" rear
Tyre diameter - 29"

I also have a stock P38, and these dimensions were correct last time I checked (after fitting Gen III's). Can't check it at the moment due to lack of flat ground and a broken Toyota Soarer (Lexus SC400 in American speak) and bits of its engine taking up most my garage.

Cheers, Paul.

[FiveSPDDisco]

It's only been 43 years since Australia converted to the Metric system but we can do it that way for fun :D
.

I dont know how to translate but consider..

My Balls busted :bangin:

[FiveSPDDisco]

To recap what has been covered may times before, for a stock P38:
EAS Standard Mode is 18.5" (470mm) from centre of wheel cap to underside of front wheel arch/fender, therefore 33" ground to underside of wheel arch;
EAS Access Mode is 2.56" (65mm) below Standard;
EAS Low/Highway Mode is 1" (25mm) below Standard;
EAS High/Wading Mode is 1.57" (40mm) above Standard.



Were did you find this? I dont see it in RAVE.

[PaulP38a]

I dont know how to translate but consider..

My Balls busted :bangin:

ha, nice admit! :D 25.4mm to an inch


Were did you find this? I dont see it in RAVE.

Section 3 of Owners Manual, also on RAVE, has the EAS height mode differentials.
EAS Standard Mode height of 470mm is quoted all over the web and is in one of the tech references I have here somewhere... will search.
Basically, it is 100mm (approx 4") from top of standard 29" tyre to underside of wheel arch/fender.

[p38oncoils]

It's only been 43 years since Australia converted to the Metric system but we can do it that way for fun :D

Atlantic British either have been misinformed or NAS P38's have smaller OD tyres than Australian... but I don't think so.
29" (737mm) tyres were standard on Australian P38's, so on EAS Standard Mode the distance from ground to bottom of wheel arch/fender is 33" (838mm).


Tyre diameter - 29"


Cheers, Paul.

Hi Paul,

Remember that when the vehicle is standing on the tyres they compress and thus limit the actual tyre lift - they become flat on the bottom. :p
On my vehicle with 285 75 16 tyres with 36 psi pressure that tyre compression is just under an inch, so that also needs to be taken into account when calculating the distance from ground to the top of the wheel arch. This can account for the discrepancy with the measurement that Atlantic British is providing. If you're working from setting the airbag height with adjustment blocks and then adding the radius of the 29" tyres you will get a measurement that is greater than the actual distance from ground due to the compression of the tyres.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Section 3 of Owners Manual, also on RAVE, has the EAS height mode differentials.
EAS Standard Mode height of 470mm is quoted all over the web and is in one of the tech references I have here somewhere... will search.

Paul I cannot find this anywhere in Rave or the manuals. Let me know what you come up with. I have also asked on a multitude of forms and nobody else's has been able to come up with the correct answer. I'm starting to think that the US market had a truck set lower than the OZ market

[RoverHse]

I might have posted these before, but probably represent what most of us would like our P38's to look like:

P38 on 33" muddies, 15" rims, G3 Airbags, Peddars Shocks (I think), front steel bumper with original Range Rover top bar, rear steel bumper and wheel carrier.

Compliments LR Service Centre, Cape Town

[FiveSPDDisco]

I might have posted these before, but probably represent what most of us would like our P38's to look like:

P38 on 33" muddies, 15" rims, G3 Airbags, Peddars Shocks (I think), front steel bumper with original Range Rover top bar, rear steel bumper and wheel carrier.

Compliments LR Service Centre, Cape Town

That front bumper looks really good do you have a better picture?

[Hoges]

Paul I cannot find this anywhere in Rave or the manuals. Let me know what you come up with. I have also asked on a multitude of forms and nobody else's has been able to come up with the correct answer. I'm starting to think that the US market had a truck set lower than the OZ market

The LR systems information document detailing the EAS specifies that Standard Height is defined as a set distance between the bottom of the bump stop stub and the axle plate. That set distance is 105mm+/- 4mm rear, and 100mm+/- 4mm front.

Remove the rubber bump stops and place a block of (hard) wood of the correct dimensions between each stub and plate to give you an exact datum line to work from....

See also http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/78026-eas-height-settings.html ref Post #10

good luck with it!

[FiveSPDDisco]

The LR systems information document detailing the EAS specifies that Standard Height is defined as a set distance between the bottom of the bump stop stub and the axle plate. That set distance is 105mm+/- 4mm rear, and 100mm+/- 4mm front.

good luck with it!

Thank you sir. This is also what I have found.

[RoverHse]

That front bumper looks really good do you have a better picture?


I only have this one more.

The bumper was made by Burnco www.burnco.co.za (http://www.burnco.co.za)

[PaulP38a]

See also http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/78026-eas-height-settings.html ref Post #10

good luck with it!

Thanks Hoges, I remember that thread now... seems so long ago when I was trying to figure out what was not quite right with my lift kit, and those measurements were done with 265/60R18 (30.5") Cooper HT Plus road tyres, not the 33" muddies it normally wears.

[FiveSPDDisco]

This update will be short.

The picture

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/953.jpg

and video says it all.

hot P38 - YouTube

[PeterAllen]

Horror Movie right there on the Dashboard

[tasi devil]

oooh buuugga! that ain't good
my condolences

...............tasi

[mtb_gary]

This update will be short.

The picture

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/953.jpg

and video says it all.

hot P38 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFYgHHN0kIY&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=1&feature=plcp)

Hopefully not too far from home when it happened, and not too much damage :o. Good luck
Gary

Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

Horror Movie right there on the Dashboard


That is Funny !! LOL

[PeterAllen]

In times of greif like this laughter is the best medicine. Hope the damage is only minor. Havent seen some of those lights on my dash yet...blown bulbs I bet.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project alternative

We had a D2 in the shop with a set of 32s on it and took this opportunity to see what the new Terrafirma lift would look like with a more realistic tire choice.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/581.jpg

The truck look balanced on the 32s and this will probably be the best size after we add all the armor

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/582.jpg

Stuffing the front with the 32s does not remove sheet metal

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/583.jpg

Poser shot

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/584.jpg

[Hoges]

Presuming the D2 customer was happy ...?:eek::angel:

[FiveSPDDisco]

Presuming the D2 customer was happy ...?:eek::angel:

Yes
He let us use them for the pictures.

[Rabzy]

Hay don't mean to hijack but I have been looking for roof racks and yours looks like something I want, any info would be great

[33chinacars]

Think it could be one of these. But will stand corrected
Land Rover Discovery Series I Roof Racks (http://www.voyagerracks.com/P38VR.htm)
Copy of original factory Expedition rack ??

Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

Hay don't mean to hijack but I have been looking for roof racks and yours looks like something I want, any info would be great

The rack on the truck is a safety devices rack. They were sold at the Land Rover dealership an extremely rare.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Think it could be one of these. But will stand corrected
Land Rover Discovery Series I Roof Racks (http://www.voyagerracks.com/P38VR.htm)
Copy of original factory Expedition rack ??

Gary

I would be very cautious when ordering a voyager/ rover racks/ Northwest parts
Rack

Do a little research on all three of those names to find out the reputation

[33chinacars]

Stand corrected !!!!

[FiveSPDDisco]

Just a quick update on the P38 project

I think we have the suspension dialed in. The last set of test shocks from Terrafirma really suit the truck in my opinion. They feel more appropriately valved retain good road manners and handle off road duties.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/976.jpg

Sorry for this short video but it will let you see that the back of the truck is no longer bouncing with the current version of shocks.

P38 - YouTube

Now all we have to do is finish the head gasket job with the new Lucky8 ARP stud kit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/977.jpg

Some good news, we should have our hands on the new Ashcroft heavy duty rear shafts any day now.

[Hoges]

The new 10 studs/head kit is excellent...BUT: don't use the ARP 90 ftlbs recommendation for tightening the heads:eek: 65 ft lbs is ample, else you may risk ripping the studs out of the block...

[clubagreenie]

I've always helicoiled every alloy block I've studded. Insert to the bottom and if it's deeper insert the next one upside down so the ends meet. Cut back and file flush.

[FiveSPDDisco]

The new 10 studs/head kit is excellent...BUT: don't use the ARP 90 ftlbs recommendation for tightening the heads:eek: 65 ft lbs is ample, else you may risk ripping the studs out of the block...

We always use 80 ftlbs

20, 40, then 80,

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update
Last weekend we had a chance to test out the suspension and tires. In short I was very happy with the way the P38 performed on the trails. Whether the truck was off camber or on hills it remained stable and solid. When pushed over whoopie doos and hidden obstacles under the mud the truck didn't do anything out of the ordinary and the shocks absorb the rim smashing impacts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/625.jpg


Side note, a passenger that took a ride in the P38 said "its unbelievably comfortable for this big of a lift"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/626.jpg

This weekend at Howard's Guyfulks event the extra wheelbase came in very handy with all the elevation changes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/627.jpg

One thing that I noticed With the P38 compared to the other Land Rover products of the same Era was the Transfer case. In order to get it to engage you really have to stand on the pedal. This is a huge disadvantage when you're trying to gently crawl over an obstacle. In short this means you have to go faster and risk breaking more things to do what a D2 or Defender with a locking T Case could do with ease. We really need to double our efforts in finding an economical way to get a lockable Tcase.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/628.jpg


On a good note I was impressed with the way the traction control was able to help get the P38 through the sticky ducks snot mud.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/629.jpg

More updates Soon

[Keithy P38]

Looks like you've had some fun! Good to see!

I've never had a problem with the transfer case not sending equal drive at low speeds. And I'm captain slow, just ask my mates! I crawl up everything, rear locker engaged or not.

Anyone else found this issue?

On another note, I noticed your P38 in a Terrafirma ad in LR Monthly magazine recently!

Cheers
Keithy

[Hoges]

Project update
One thing that I noticed With the P38 compared to the other Land Rover products of the same Era was the Transfer case. In order to get it to engage you really have to stand on the pedal. This is a huge disadvantage when you're trying to gently crawl over an obstacle. In short this means you have to go faster and risk breaking more things to do what a D2 or Defender with a locking T Case could do with ease. We really need to double our efforts in finding an economical way to get a lockable Tcase.

have you tried careful left foot braking while simultaneously using the accelerator? Can climb over all sorts of obstacles at 1500 -1800 rpm in low range with the VC operating most efficiently using this technique!:D

[DT-P38]

have you tried careful left foot braking while simultaneously using the accelerator? Can climb over all sorts of obstacles at 1500 -1800 rpm in low range with the VC operating most efficiently using this technique!:D

Yep have had success with this "style" before too.

[FiveSPDDisco]

On another note, I noticed your P38 in a Terrafirma ad in LR Monthly magazine recently!

Cheers
Keithy


I did not see that. Can you post a pic?

[FiveSPDDisco]

have you tried careful left foot braking while simultaneously using the accelerator? Can climb over all sorts of obstacles at 1500 -1800 rpm in low range with the VC operating most efficiently using this technique!:D

Im referring to very low traction conditions. Most of the power goes to the rear wheels. You have to spin the viscous up in order to get it to transfer power to the front.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/259.jpg

The P38 was challenged for the first time last week at Rovers on the Rocks. We showed up to the event with just a lift and tires. No armor, no traction aids and headed out with the big boys to see if we could keep up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/277.jpg

The Terrafirma lift did quite well over all the train that Roush creek had to offer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/278.jpg

We were running a little bit late for the rock competition so I had to hotfoot it back. Showing no mercy to the suspension tires or rims. The big girl bounded over rocks and crevices while we hit speeds of 20 miles an hour. To make things more interesting there was 3 adults in the truck. The suspension absorbed the torture with out showing any sign of wanting to quit. I don't know how they would've handled flying overwash board roads in 110 deg Arizona heat but for this little test they did more than expected for a direct bolt in shock.

Take a look at this video of the P38 balancing on two wheels. You can see the brake being spiked trying to get the truck to pitch and roll but the shocks are keeping it under control.

P38 - YouTube

An interesting P38 thing happen when we were on the trail.
The new HD bumpers were not here in time so we were stuck with stock. Attached to the stock rear bumper was the trailer wiring harness. This will be relevant soon.
The trails of Rockcreek quickly eliminated the wiring harness. The remaining wiring shorted out and blew the brake light fuse. On most trucks this would not be a big deal but the P38 is not most trucks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/279.jpg

Unfortunately this fuse was also linked to the ABS

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/280.jpg

And without ABS you don't have any of this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/281.jpg

The P38 was in a deep gully with rocks on either side. This made the doors impossible to open and prevented anybody from reaching the fuse that was so inconveniently located under the passenger seat. We decided to winch it out and when i jumped back in the truck to put it in drive it was stuck in park.

So quick recap of fuse number 17
Can't take the truck out of park
No ABS
No traction control
Oh yeah and no brake lights

Aside from the above issue of fuse number 17 I was extremely happy with the truck. The brakes are fantastic when compared to a Disco or Defender of the same generation

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/282.jpg

The pictures never look as steep as it really is

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/283.jpg


We use the P38 to set up the rock competition course

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/284.jpg

Bill AKA ArmyRover was able to jump in and run the course without doing any damage and give us is wonderful wheel stand picture.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/843.jpg

Coming next will be rock sliders. We should have them in hand on Wednesday but I think we're going to have to do some work on the fenders.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/285.jpg

The true 33 is a bit tight for the wheel well. I'm going to try some of Terrafirma's new fender flares. They were designed for the D2 and do not require you to cut the fender but extends the arches. We will have to see how they fit.

[mtb_gary]

So aside from the blown number 17 fuse and it's ramifications it sounds like the old girl went better than expected! Did you end up with any damage to the non armoured vehicle?
Gary

[clubagreenie]

Love the wheels. You don't want to know what the T/F dist wants for them here but lets say the first of 4 numbers is a 2.

Project Update.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/259.jpg

Installed Worklight?

[Keithy P38]

Wow that looks like some great 4wding! Makes my beach trip this weekend seem lame in comparison! Nice air time too! I love seeing pics of these great 4wds doing what they are really born to do! I have an air locker versus traction control video on YouTube, the hill that I tackle in that clip doesn't look steep, but you cannot walk up it un-aided - I fully understand about photos not looking like they really are! Well done!

Ill post the photo up for you tomorrow Auzzie time, I use my iPhone to view the forum so can't upload pics. Will get on the PC for ya!

[Keithy P38]

Ok so I jumped on the PC... Here 'tis. From the December 2012 issue on Page 18.

Cheers
Keithy

[FiveSPDDisco]

Ok so I jumped on the PC... Here 'tis. From the December 2012 issue on Page 18.

Cheers
Keithy

THANK YOU!!!!

[FiveSPDDisco]

So aside from the blown number 17 fuse and it's ramifications it sounds like the old girl went better than expected! Did you end up with any damage to the non armoured vehicle?
Gary

She do better then I thought. The bumpers took a bit of a beating but for the most part she did good.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Love the wheels. You don't want to know what the T/F dist wants for them here but lets say the first of 4 numbers is a 2.

Project Update.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/259.jpg

Installed Worklight?

Scary Price.

They are $250 USD but shipping is about $800 - $1000

[clubagreenie]

So a set of 6 with allowing $1000- shipping is the same price as a wheel here.

What model of the T/F shocks are you using? I've read some mixed reviews of them but I'm considering the +3" Pro Sports (TF133/134 for D2). Opinions?

[Keithy P38]

Not sure if you've removed the lip spoiler from your front bumper, that'll give you another inch without making plastic change shape!!

[FiveSPDDisco]

So a set of 6 with allowing $1000- shipping is the same price as a wheel here.

What model of the T/F shocks are you using? I've read some mixed reviews of them but I'm considering the +3" Pro Sports (TF133/134 for D2). Opinions?

We are using the TF pro sports Plus 2 for the P38. We have had good success with the D2 plus 3 pro sports. You will need extended bake lines and cones to run them

[clubagreenie]

What about that work light in the pic. Where do I get one of those puppies?

[FiveSPDDisco]

Here's a quick update with good news. We received the sliders and like a kid on Christmas I couldn't wait to rip open the box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/54.jpg

So far Im very happy with the build construction, powder coating and the way they mount directly to the frame. As you can see in this picture they fit the truck nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/55.jpg

We installed the passenger side and everything went quite well. We are saving the drivers side for the install video.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/56.jpg

Things are moving forward with the locking Tcase too. Hopefully I'll have an update on that soon.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/57.jpg

[Keithy P38]

Watching eagerly!

[mtb_gary]

Looking good!

[DT-P38]

Coming along nicely there.

Now all you need is a non castrated P38 with a Hard Range lift kit! Imagine that... Cruise a bit more economically (and a lot more safely) down the highway on lowered suspension then jump off road push the button and gain the biggest part of your (overall 5 inches) lift in less than 30 seconds.

Hell there's a thought... why don't you guys just make the boys an offer on the Hard Range business? Hard & Lucky would sound good together on some sexy marketing gear! LOL!!!

[FANTOM P38]

Tell us more about locking transfer kit!!!!!
Sliders are looking good - maybe you need to appoint Australian Distributor for your range of bits & pieces

[FiveSPDDisco]

Hard & Lucky would sound good together on some sexy marketing gear!

funny

[FiveSPDDisco]

Tell us more about locking transfer kit!!!!!


Soon my friend soon.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update
With the sliders installed we played around with them a bit. Heres a quick review.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1108.jpg

For the most part the install went quite well for these 3 bolts
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1109.jpg

But this one below was a little bit of a challenge. You needed to be spot on when drilling the hole.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1110.jpg

As you can see in this picture the top of the slider fits snugly against the sill. You get to mount directly to the frame and still use the sill for support.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1111.jpg

Over all We think they fit the truck nicely.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1112.jpg

Playing on a gravel pile
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1113.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1114.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1115.jpg

coming down the pipe soon will be diff guards. As you can see from this picture we are on thin ice.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1116.jpg

And finally here's a quick video of us testing the sliders.

p38 slider - YouTube (http://youtu.be/A-DekoZ2QUw)

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update

The new Terrafirma Disco2 fender flares came in and we did a quick mockup to see if they're going to work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/662.jpg

You can see from this picture we are getting a serious amount of rub.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/663.jpg

Once the flares are installed I think we'll have plenty of room.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/664.jpg

Unfortunately we're going to have to remove the sliders and trim them a bit, but I feel the benefits of having a 33 inch tire out ways this little bit of extra effort.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/665.jpg

The back doesn't appear to be having as much interference as the front and will not require much trimming at all.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/666.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/667.jpg

Next up flare install

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update

We got a tremendous amount of things accomplished this week. A fender flare was installed, the stock exhaust has been reworked to be more off-road friendly and the transfer case has been locked. Yes you read correctly Locked with a capital L!

The front fender on the driver side was getting the most abuse from the 33in tires so we started there. The grinder made quick work of the little trimming needed on the aluminum fender.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1127.jpg

With a little bit of adjustment to the cutouts around the body lines the flares fit the P38 fairly easy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1128.jpg

The D2 flares were not quite big enough to house the Nittos. We needed to stretch them another inch or so at the bottom. To do this we took a heat gun and massaged the lower corner a little bit to extend the flare out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1129.jpg

We are all happy with the end results even know these flares were not intended for the P38. They gave us the added room we needed to fit the larger tires and now all we have to do is trim back the sliders.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1130.jpg

I know what you're saying all this could be avoided if we just would've stuck with 32in tires but it would not be a true Lucky8 truck unless it was on at least 33's

Exhaust and Tcase updates to follow

[Keithy P38]

Coming along nicely there! I saw the YouTube vid of your P38, that transfer case install will be something a fair few people would be interested in! Can't wait to see/read about it!

No point running 32's on it with the amount of effort you've put in this far! Good to see you have stuck with the 33's!

[FiveSPDDisco]

Coming along nicely there! I saw the YouTube vid of your P38, that transfer case install will be something a fair few people would be interested in! Can't wait to see/read about it!

No point running 32's on it with the amount of effort you've put in this far! Good to see you have stuck with the 33's!

Thank you for the kind words.

[FiveSPDDisco]

project update

The exhaust was the next thing we had to address. Everything from the cats back was removed by rocks at our last event.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1010.jpg

For some reason this part of the Y pipe drops lower than anything else on the truck. It had been crushed and bent from an obstacle we went over. I really think we are going to have to make some sort of skid plate to protected in the future.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1011.jpg

And the last thing to repair was this mid muffler section. You can see another off-road faux pas with Land Rovers design right here. This muffler use to hang lower than the frame.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1012.jpg

With it out of the way we put in a straight pipe that sits much higher than the frame. This should help us avoid any future damage

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1013.jpg

[mtb_gary]

Looking good would be an understatement! Looking brilliant! Out of curiosity how are you comparing off road to the other competitors highly modified rigs?
Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

project update

We have been racking our brains on how to lock the viscous coupling. There are a few ideas out there on how to make this possible but the expense is making it cost prohibitive. To make matters worse I don't know if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle being fully locked. But as the old saying goes when the going gets tough the tough get going. So we built a jig, welded the viscous coupling in the correct locked position and installed it in the transfer case.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/378.jpg

By doing this we will be able to find out if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle the load put on it when the transfercase is locked. If it doesn't explode we will continue to look for viable options to lock the T case. The best way to show that the transfer case is locked on a Borg-Warner box is to pull the front driveshaft and see if the truck will still move, and thats exactly what we did in this video.

P38 locked center diff test - YouTube

Your first take on the video maybe just a yahoo having fun in the snow, but when you really look at it our P38 is spinning the rear tires while the front tires remain stationary. This means the transfercase is locked and all the power is going to the rear output shaft without causing an explosion. I'm pretty confident that the rear will hold up okay. We have been driving the truck around as a rearwheel drive unit for about a week without any side effects.

[Keithy P38]

That's the ticket!

What are your plans for bitumen driving when the front driveshaft is re-installed?

[FiveSPDDisco]

That's the ticket!

What are your plans for bitumen driving when the front driveshaft is re-installed?

Im sorry I dont understand.

" bitumen "

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update
The fender flares are finished and for the most part they fit the P38 well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/974.jpg
The fronts fit just about perfect
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/999.jpg
The rear sections provided the much needed room for the tires
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1000.jpg
All that's left is to make the final trim on the rear section, once we have the new bumpers
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1001.jpg

[PaulP38a]

Very nice job.
How did you ensure that the rear doors seal properly after chopping them?

[Keithy P38]

I may have read your post wrong, but you did say you welded the VC in the locked position (ie. equal drive front to rear)?

If this is the case, how will you drive on a sealed (tar) road with front and rear driveshafts connected and avoid damage to the transmission or diffs?

Cheers
Keithy

[FiveSPDDisco]

Very nice job.
How did you ensure that the rear doors seal properly after chopping them?

Paul
The inner seals we not harmed.

[FiveSPDDisco]

I may have read your post wrong, but you did say you welded the VC in the locked position (ie. equal drive front to rear)?




That is correct



If this is the case, how will you drive on a sealed (tar) road with front and rear driveshafts connected and avoid damage to the transmission or diffs?

Cheers
Keithy

We are looking for a way to do this with out being to expensive

[p38arover]

I just started looking at this thread.


These 3 letter strike fear into any P38 owner " BCM "and if that was not scary enough we have "EAS" to keep them company.


You forgot "HSE" for Highly Suspect Engine!

[benji]

Racking my brain for a cheaper idea than a custom air/electronic locker. Racking not working.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Racking my brain for a cheaper idea than a custom air/electronic locker. Racking not working.

YEP..

[TD50WA]

Love what you are doing. Watching with interest. Great job sofar. Have you seen this p38. There is plenty of YouTube stuff on it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/640.jpg

[FiveSPDDisco]

Love what you are doing. Watching with interest. Great job sofar. Have you seen this p38. There is plenty of YouTube stuff on it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/640.jpg

Thank you for the kind words. I have seen that truck it is a nice one.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update

The sliders have been trimmed to fit with the fender flares. Hooray we can now turn with out rubbing! When the snow clears out I'll take some good pictures but for now I have some trail shots.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/636.jpg

The tree bars were true to their name and I needed to use them often in the tight wooded area.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/637.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/638.jpg

As you can see in this picture the tree bar portion on the slider sticks out just far enough to keep the door skins safe from damage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/639.jpg

[benji]

Have just watched your water proofing stuff heres the link for anyone who hasnt http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/47338-01-p38-trail-preparation-3.html

Re. the centre locker, are you able to spline shafts?
Was thinking of some thick tube thats turned on the outside to press into the front and rear bearings the vc sits in, weld the nose of a vc onto the end of the tube so it fits the front output shaft yoke, spline the inside on the tube to engage the front output from the diff. Inside the tube is a sliding cog that is spined on the outside to engage with the now front output tube, and splines on the inside so when its pushed back via arb style air it engages the front of the rear output shaft.

Its the cheapest I can think of 4 cuts, 3 splines, one mill and a weld. Still a few thousand worth of investment though.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Have just watched your water proofing stuff heres the link for anyone who hasnt 01 P38 Trail preparation. - Page 3 (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/47338-01-p38-trail-preparation-3.html)

Re. the centre locker, are you able to spline shafts?
Was thinking of some thick tube thats turned on the outside to press into the front and rear bearings the vc sits in, weld the nose of a vc onto the end of the tube so it fits the front output shaft yoke, spline the inside on the tube to engage the front output from the diff. Inside the tube is a sliding cog that is spined on the outside to engage with the now front output tube, and splines on the inside so when its pushed back via arb style air it engages the front of the rear output shaft.

Its the cheapest I can think of 4 cuts, 3 splines, one mill and a weld. Still a few thousand worth of investment though.

Thank you for the Idea and we could make the shaft but I dont think most customer could weld it up correctly .

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : MUD in all the wrong places

Prepping for the next event we went through the truck a little bit and upon opening the air box we found this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/385.jpg

The airbox draws air from inside the front fender. But obviously that is not enough to protect it from the goop we are sticking the truck in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/386.jpg

We took the snorkel type section off the air box that connected it to the fender. The Air intake will now draw fresh air from inside the engine bay. To help protect the air box from dirt we covered the hole in the fender with this extra piece of plastic we found laying around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/387.jpg

[mtb_gary]

Did you still have the plastic guards on the inside of the wheel arches fitted? That seems like a lot of mud to collect!

Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

Did you still have the plastic guards on the inside of the wheel arches fitted? That seems like a lot of mud to collect!

Gary

No we do not. With the 33s we needed to rework the fender and the guard was removed.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Snow problem

The conditions at Winter Romp were crazy slippery, even for Maine. I tried airing down to 15psi to get more traction. The snow and ice just laughed, so I let the pressure down to 8psi and that was the magic number for the Nittos. This turned into a good test for the new Terrafirma rims. Whether it be on the trail or street the bead never came off the wheels.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/145.jpg

The P38 is the first Land Rover I was afraid to play in the water with. Every crossing was done only after I knew how deep the water was. Next week I am going to focus on doing something with the BECM and ECU.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/146.jpg

Unfortunately the Winter Romp was not kind to the P38s Fender flares. The tight trails and low hanging tree branches were like driving through the living forest of Middle Earth and someone told the trees that each flare was a Ring of Power.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/147.jpg

We will have to get the heat gun out and bend the flare back into shape but with out them we could not stuff the 33s like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/148.jpg

Winter Romp poser shot

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/149.jpg

[Keithy P38]

You are definitely giving the mighty P38 a good workout! It's good to see for every issue that arises there is always a solution that you are working on to make them disappear!

[FiveSPDDisco]

You are definitely giving the mighty P38 a good workout! It's good to see for every issue that arises there is always a solution that you are working on to make them disappear!

That was extremely kind. Thank you very much.

[FiveSPDDisco]

mini Project update : Make it stop

With all the work we are doing to the P38 the constant beeping forced Mike to the verge of a mental break down. Armed with a screwdriver and a 10 lb sledgehammer Mike had a life or death match with the instrument cluster. I'm happy to say the cluster is fine and no longer beeps, Mike on the other hand is in therapy 3 times a week.

To see how to De-Beep your P38 watch this video

P38 beep delete - YouTube

[intheozone]

Great news,

I look forward to hearing more about this as the project goes on. Great news

[Keithy P38]

That's a good little tip! Thanks for that!

[davidsonsm]

Been meaning to do that little project as I have LED bulbs that make the becm think they've blown. The faster indicator blink on the binnacle will be no more also. Yeehah. Happy days.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Thank you for the kind words

[FANTOM P38]

G'day mate was wondering how your Centre Diff Lock has been performing,
is it looking like a feesable option or is it still too early to say?
Martin

[FiveSPDDisco]

G'day mate was wondering how your Centre Diff Lock has been performing,
is it looking like a feesable option or is it still too early to say?
Martin

Thanks for asking Sir. Our temporary job is holding up quite well, But that said we do not drive it much on the street because now it is fully locked.

We have tried a few different options but we keep coming up plums.

I have to transfer case sitting on the table just outside of my office and walk by every day. I look at it and try to think of what I can stick in there to make it lock and unlock. Our last idea was to stick a small Dana 30 Locker in there. Unfortunately the locker is to big.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Lights, Damper, Cut

Lights
Almost every time we use the P38 a front side marker light goes missing. I don't know if the mounting tabs have gone bad on the truck or that we sometimes use trees and rocks as a brake supplement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1208.jpg

We filled the mounting holes on the lights with RTV in hopes of keeping them in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1209.jpg

They did not fall out on this little rock pile, I hope it is a good omen.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1210.jpg

Damper
The Terrafirma steering damper came in for testing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1211.jpg

I took the P38 down a 55mph ruff country road and the damper kept the 33in Nitto's under control and tracking straight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1212.jpg

As expected the damper did great off road as well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1213.jpg

Cut
After seeing the prototype for the rear bumper we could make the final adjustments needed to the fender flares.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1214.jpg

With the way the flares line up on the P38 it is hard to tell we cut them or that they were originally for a Disco 2.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1215.jpg

Mike the fender slayer on the stone pile showing off the lights and flares.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1216.jpg

[mtb_gary]

It's supposed to be summer time for you guys the snow on the rock piles must mean it is still VERY cold!

Gary

[FANTOM P38]

In regards to lights coming adrift, I experienced similar thing after rubbing up against embankment.
My solution is simple one that has worked excellently.
Remove assembly and drill small hole in centre of locking tab at point where
it protudes behind mount location then simply srew in a self tapping screw to prevent it from falling forward. ( also stops anyone they may decide they like your clear lamps from extracting from front without opening bonnet )

[rc42]

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm doing a lot of modification to my own P38 and I noticed on the later pictures that the front anti-roll bar has been removed but I didn't see any reference to it in the text.

Is this for off-road purposes only or are you using it on the roads too? I was wondering how much it improves axle articulation and what impact it has on the on-road behavior.

[FiveSPDDisco]

In regards to lights coming adrift, I experienced similar thing after rubbing up against embankment.
My solution is simple one that has worked excellently.
Remove assembly and drill small hole in centre of locking tab at point where
it protudes behind mount location then simply srew in a self tapping screw to prevent it from falling forward. ( also stops anyone they may decide they like your clear lamps from extracting from front without opening bonnet )

That is a fantastic idea. I wish I would've done that.

[FiveSPDDisco]

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm doing a lot of modification to my own P38 and I noticed on the later pictures that the front anti-roll bar has been removed but I didn't see any reference to it in the text.

Is this for off-road purposes only or are you using it on the roads too? I was wondering how much it improves axle articulation and what impact it has on the on-road behavior.

For off-road use removing the front sway bars is must.

As a shop we would never recommend removing the swaybar to a vehicle that is being used on the road. That said I know a lot of land rovers that do not have sway bars.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project Update : Recap with a Splash

When we started out with this truck we made a list of things to accomplish. Let's revisit it and see how we are doing.


3-5 in lift / 4 inch lift installed
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires / 33in Nittos installed
Front and rear bumpers / In production, just waiting on the first run.
Sliders / Installed
Front and rear lockers / They need to be installed
HD drag link and track rod / In production
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass / Nothing yet
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how. / Locked and working on a selectable option
HD rear shaft / Produced and waiting to be installed
HD CV and shafts / Out for pricing and possible production
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run" / I had a confirmation that this can be done just waiting on software to do it.

There was one more thing on the list and will get to that in a minute. Out of the 11 things listed above.
6 are complete
2 are in production
2 have a promising future
and one we did not even look at yet.
I feel like we're doing a pretty good job thus far.

Now that brings us to the last thing on the list waterproof the BECM.

I think we may have come up with something that could change the way we all think about our automotive computers and water. Here is a sneak peek at our new water guard system.

Water guard - YouTube

The water guard system is a chemically bonded bit of magic to the outside of the board that prevents water molecules from penetrating. The advantage is air can flow naturally over the board and it will not cause overheating issues.

What do you guys think?

[TD50WA]

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm doing a lot of modification to my own P38 and I noticed on the later pictures that the front anti-roll bar has been removed but I didn't see any reference to it in the text.

Is this for off-road purposes only or are you using it on the roads too? I was wondering how much it improves axle articulation and what impact it has on the on-road behavior.

Hi rc42
Use sway bar disconnects, don't remove the sway bar because it's illegal to run on the road without one....and besides, the rr rolls around enough with them on, nevermind without:D

That waterproof stuff will certainly be a big seller! What's its durability, does it deteriorate? How often does it have to be reapplied, is it a once off treatment? C'mon stop teasing....more details please:D

Cheers
Kev

[rc42]

The spray water repellant is a great idea, would like to see the board fully coated and dropped into the bowl of salt water as that's the sort of protection it would need to provide if a water crossing went bad.

I'm guessing that the boards have to be removed to ensure a good protective coating, not sure how difficult that is but should be OK if there are good instructions.

Very interested in the HD front shafts and CVs too, I'm planning to upgrade to Ashcroft ATB diffs front and rear at some point in the future and I've only ever seen rear HD shafts commercially available.


keep up the good work

[mtb_gary]

Is this the same HZO water guard that was demonstrated on iPhones and Galaxys at a trade show? I was not aware it was commercially available yet?

Gary


Project Update : Recap with a Splash

When we started out with this truck we made a list of things to accomplish. Let's revisit it and see how we are doing.


3-5 in lift / 4 inch lift installed
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires / 33in Nittos installed
Front and rear bumpers / In production, just waiting on the first run.
Sliders / Installed
Front and rear lockers / They need to be installed
HD drag link and track rod / In production
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass / Nothing yet
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how. / Locked and working on a selectable option
HD rear shaft / Produced and waiting to be installed
HD CV and shafts / Out for pricing and possible production
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run" / I had a confirmation that this can be done just waiting on software to do it.

There was one more thing on the list and will get to that in a minute. Out of the 11 things listed above.
6 are complete
2 are in production
2 have a promising future
and one we did not even look at yet.
I feel like we're doing a pretty good job thus far.

Now that brings us to the last thing on the list waterproof the BECM.

I think we may have come up with something that could change the way we all think about our automotive computers and water. Here is a sneak peek at our new water guard system.

Water guard - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ8TZdeFFNQ&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=2)

The water guard system is a chemically bonded bit of magic to the outside of the board that prevents water molecules from penetrating. The advantage is air can flow naturally over the board and it will not cause overheating issues.

What do you guys think?

[clubagreenie]

Water Guard: What do I think?

How much and how soon?

[benji]

Water Guard: What do I think?

How much and how soon?

Ditto that, seems like the duck's guts. The only problem would be the double layer fuse box, but may be able to be sprayed in from the sides.

[FiveSPDDisco]

That waterproof stuff will certainly be a big seller! What's its durability, does it deteriorate? How often does it have to be reapplied, is it a once off treatment? C'mon stop teasing....more details please:D

Cheers
Kev

It is a 1 time treatment but it in not water proof. The design is to protect the board and components if they get wet

[FiveSPDDisco]

Is this the same HZO water guard that was demonstrated on iPhones and Galaxys at a trade show? I was not aware it was commercially available yet?

Gary


I dont know HZO but I'm guessing it is very similar process.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Ditto that, seems like the duck's guts. The only problem would be the double layer fuse box, but may be able to be sprayed in from the sides.

It is not sprayed on. It is chemically bonded to the board

[FiveSPDDisco]

Water Guard: What do I think?

How much and how soon?

We are doing beta testing now. The price will be in the $200 range

[clubagreenie]

I think Australian Delta testing is required.

Ship to...

[Keithy P38]

Actually, I'm headed up to the Cape in August, that would be a perfect proving ground!

[FiveSPDDisco]

What would you guys want to have done the ECU?

[Keithy P38]

Any ECU's that can get wet if the vehicle stops mid-creek would be how I'd do it.

[clubagreenie]

Agreed, Auto, SLABS, Engine ECU, anything else elec that could be effected by water.

Would it be any use on elec connections that are effected by water contact such as earlier points ignition parts?

[benji]

Ditto that, BECM, eat/transfer ecu, dseries absecu, underbonnet fusebox and engine ecu, and if one was remotely sadistic the srs ecu - though that may be going a tad to far.

[wanglemoose]

What would you guys want to have done the ECU?


i believe everything electrical below the outer paint surface of the roof would cover it.:D

[FiveSPDDisco]

We have done the ECU and BECM. The issue is you would need to post yours to us and them we would send them back to you.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project Update : Top to Bottom

New Rack

As much as we love the P38 SD rack, they are not very practical when compared to the modern racks on the market. So we stripped off the SD and slapped on a Front Runner unit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/431.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1-8_zpsb6f9e79a.jpg.html)

We went with the Front Runner rack for a few reasons, but the main one was it can be swapped over to the the L322 Project truck or the LR3 for that matter. All you need to do is change the mounting feet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/432.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2-7_zps543f9259.jpg.html)

The second factor is you can add almost anything to a front runner rack without drillling any holes. For example this double Jerry can holder. To mount it all you need to do is simply drop in the hardware to the pre existing locations and tighten down. It is that easy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/433.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5-5_zps5c4a28b8.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/434.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4-5_zpsfcea7bb3.jpg.html)

The shovel/ax holder is brilliant.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/435.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3-9_zps62e6863f.jpg.html)

Moving down

The head liner in the P38 was coming apart from every corner. We pulled the liner out and and ripped off the fabric. This is what we were left with.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/436.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6-6_zps844567ec.jpg.html)

The fiberglass liner was still in good shape but it was covered in the remains of the fabric liner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/437.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zps1afda65b.jpg.html)

To remove the old liner film and glue from the fiberglass all you have to do is wipe it off, but we used a power washer and made quick work of the debris


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/438.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-8-5_zps1d700d72.jpg.html)

With all the foam and glue removed it was time for the new liner. We stole this idea from Aarongregor on landroverforums. He did his headliner with a plastic / rubber paint and we thought it would be the best option.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/439.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-9-4_zps8bd1e02a.jpg.html)

After 3 cans we got this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/440.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-10-3_zpsa0d9472c.jpg.html)

And in the truck

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/441.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1-8_zps1058b9b0.jpg.html)

The P38 is being build for a hard life. A water and mud resistant headliner seemed like a better choice over fabric.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/442.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2-7_zps981ecc62.jpg.html)

A little lower

With the truck on the lift we took this oppertunity to change the front drive shaft over to an L8 edition Tom Woods

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/443.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6-6_zps69cfbf73.jpg.html)

Tom always makes our shafts with the super extended splines. This is extremely important when you have a truck with flex. It allows the driveshaft to extend during full articulation and still give enough room for complete compression

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/444.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5-5_zps50c1b589.jpg.html)

On the truck pic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/445.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zps2ec9bde5.jpg.html)


How low can you go

Low tire pressure can be an asset on the trails. Unfortunately with low pressure you run the risk of popping the tire off the bead. To help prevent this ill side effect we install the Terrafirma bead lock rings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/446.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3-9_zps233fdc24.jpg.html)

After carefully torquing down all the rings for what seemed like an eternity we arrived at pure beauty


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/447.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-26_zps92248b4b.jpg.html)

[stickso]

Looking seriously tough - nice rack too.

[mtb_gary]

Looking good guys!

Gary

[PaulP38a]

I want the rack, the flares, the bead lockers and the double cardan.
Damn, you Yanks get all the good stuff :)

[davidsonsm]

When are you guys touring? Need you to do a gig in Melbourne. I'll buy a ticket.

[clubagreenie]

I really love those wheels. Pity they run almost $1000- each here, plus lock rings.

[FANTOM P38]

Must be someone here that can do those double cardan shafts need to investigate that!

[clubagreenie]

Jeep Konnection in Vic will bring them in for around $600- or so.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Jeep Konnection in Vic will bring them in for around $600- or so.


Im betting we can get them there for less then $600 i guessing $550

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Springs and things

It is a little known fact that the shocks in the front of a P38 are generally 2 inches longer than the shocks in the rear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/248.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-8-5_zpsdc06d4a0.jpg.html)

We decided to take advantage of this by swapping in a set of front shocks to the rear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/249.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-26_zpsbdd09826.jpg.html)

On the upside we would gain more down travel from the shocks and this would allow the rear axel to flex like the Hulk on steroids. Okay, the Hulk thing may be a little much but you get the idea. The downside is the spring would definitely fall off the lower perch or come out of the upper bucket. To remedy this issue we reached deep into our bag of tricks and pulled out a set of X springs from our friends at X Eng.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/250.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/110Kit_zpsb430d05e.jpg.html)

The X spring will not only act like a cone, it will also provide downforce to help keep the axle on the ground. With both wheels on the ground longer you maintain traction and stability. Above and beyond the intended use of the X spring it was extremely advantageous given the limited space and lack of cones for the P38.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/251.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2-7_zps8a55e5cd.jpg.html)

The X springs axel mounting configuration offered us another advantage over traditional cones.
As you lift the truck the axel tends to wrap or point the diff up. This will cause the spring perches to sit at an angle. With the Spring perches at an angle it makes it extremely difficult to keep the spring on the perch. Most people will strap the springs to the perch. This will cause the spring to sit constantly in the shape of the letter C. With the X spring in place this was no longer an issue. As you can see the Lower spring and bucket allow the spring perch to twist without fear of becoming disconnected.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/252.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-24-1_zps5bb5a7e4.jpg.html)

Here is a few forklift flex pictures and the articulation is quite good.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/253.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5-5_zpsc1cf7599.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/254.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6-6_zps06d8f55f.jpg.html)

Front fender flares earning their keep

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/255.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zpsbb4b2e39.jpg.html)

With the truck in the air we decided it was a good time to put on a set of Terrafirma drilled and slotted rotors. I cannot say enough good things about these rotors. We have used them on every project truck thus far and they have preformed above our expectations.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/256.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3-9_zps484743cf.jpg.html)

Here is a video of the X spring working

X spring - YouTube

And the poser pic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/257.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-9-4_zps9d586ea9.jpg.html)

[mtb_gary]

Great articulation! Steering could be a challenge at full flex though. It looks pretty snug inside the front guard even pointing straight ahead!

Gary

[Keithy P38]

You read my mind! I'm running TF144's at all 4 corners of my P38 which is lifted (on bags) for that exact reason. I don't have the option of a dislocation cone with bags and spacers, but I have a dislocation pin (more on that when my kit is finished).

Your other option was to remove the lower coil mount and place a large bump stop (80 series land cruiser ones are sufficient, or a truck one), however your setup looks great and works well!

Good work!

[mtb_gary]

Keith

You've got me intrigued with the dislocation pin! :twisted:

Gary


You read my mind! I'm running TF144's at all 4 corners of my P38 which is lifted (on bags) for that exact reason. I don't have the option of a dislocation cone with bags and spacers, but I have a dislocation pin (more on that when my kit is finished).

Your other option was to remove the lower coil mount and place a large bump stop (80 series land cruiser ones are sufficient, or a truck one), however your setup looks great and works well!

Good work!

[FANTOM P38]

Just thought I'd throw this out there has anyone spoken to Koni re P38 Shocks +2" ??
If so what was their response? I have been going to get in touch with them but thought just in case someones already asked the question.

This pin is sounding interesting Keithy, Pics?

[wanglemoose]

Must be someone here that can do those double cardan shafts need to investigate that!

do the disco 2 ones fit??????

[FANTOM P38]

I wouldn't think so surely they would be shorter and dont know if they are same spline. Maybe someone could confirm this.

[clubagreenie]

Spline won't make a difference as you wouldn't change half a shaft. Drive flanges would be the only issue after length.

[FiveSPDDisco]

You read my mind! I'm running TF144's at all 4 corners of my P38

Good man!

[FiveSPDDisco]

do the disco 2 ones fit??????

Sorry it is to short and has a different bolt pattern

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project Update : Nice Rack

Everybody loves a sexy rack and L8 is no exception. In it's standard form the front runner rack looked kind of plain, But as we started to add accessories the rack took on a whole new look.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/10.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-13-1_zps81c2bff5.jpg.html)

The first thing we wanted to do was lower the front of the rack down so it looked level across the truck. Front Runner keeps the front a little bit higher then the rear so you can open the sunroof. Knowing full well that the sunroof will not be used anymore we decided to bring the front of the rack down. One of the greatest things about the Front Runner rack is it's modular construction. To lower the front all we had to do was swap out this bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/11.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1-8_zpsd6753ca8.jpg.html)

A few bolts later and boom the new foot is installed. We did not even have to take the rack off the roof.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/12.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-26_zpsb520af59.jpg.html)

Next on the list was to put some lights on the front. Ironman 4 x 4 has released their own brand of LED light bars and we thought this was a perfect place for one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/13.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3-9_zps417506db.jpg.html)

Again to stress how convenient this rack is we used the spare foot as a light mount bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/14.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4-5_zps7f3998a2.jpg.html)

All we had to do was drop a bolt into the track and tighten the bracket down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/15.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5-5_zps7294472a.jpg.html)

The Ironman LED uses a convenient multiple angle mount. All you have to do is adjust it to your liking and tighten it down with the provided Allen wrench.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/16.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6-6_zps4bee4874.jpg.html)

The lightbar tucked up perfectly against the rack, hopefully keeping it out of harms way.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/17.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-15-1_zpsc22e1f56.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/18.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-20-1_zps87f82d81.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/19.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-19-1_zps85aa68f0.jpg.html)

With the LEDs done it was time to move out back. I must admit I was as excited as a little kid on Christmas for this upgrade. It's one of those stupid things that you say why hasn't anybody thought of it before. If another rack manufacturer has done this I have never seen it. Front Runner designed a table holder that bolted to the bottom of the rack. It allows you to adjust for width to fit a multitude of tables. This was extremely useful because the P38 has less cargo room then any of the project vehicles we have used.
This is one of the track legs that need to be mounted to the bottom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/20.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zps8169edc3.jpg.html)

Simply slide the bolts into the lower track.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/21.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-8-5_zps92760869.jpg.html)

Adjust to size and tighten down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/22.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-9-4_zps52244b72.jpg.html)

Top view of the tracks installed waiting for the table.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/23.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-10-3_zpsb17aaa05.jpg.html)

I know what you guys are thinking because I thought the same thing. What holds the table in place? The table mounting kit comes with a securing latch. First you bolt this ring to your table.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/24.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-13-1_zpsbdecb081.jpg.html)

Then mount the locking pin bracket to the rack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/25.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-12-2_zps33e45fb1.jpg.html)

Drop the pin in place to secure the table from moving.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/26.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-11-3_zps31e1e86d.jpg.html)

Here is a top view of the table in place. It is securely stored and out-of-the-way until needed. Keep in mind we mounted all of these accessories without drilling a single hole.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/27.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-14-1_zps6c228d16.jpg.html)

With all this cool stuff on the rack we needed a way to get there. Scott from BECM Doctor WWW.BECMDOCTOR.COM (http://www.becmdoctor.com) had a few of his SD style ladders left and sent us one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/28.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-16-1_zps65efbda4.jpg.html)

Not only is Scott extremely knowledgeable about the inner workings of the BECM he's a cool guy to work with. I highly recommend him if you need a spare BECM or yours repaired. He also offered to do another run of ladders if we can get eight people interested. The price for the ladder is $200. And one more thing before we get back to the ladder. Scott is also trying to find a way to divorce the BECM from the ECU. With him on the case we have a good chance of success.
Mounting the latter was extremely easy. All we needed to do was drill some holes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/29.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-17-1_zpsafc1edb0.jpg.html)

Install some Riv Nuts and tighten down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/30.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-21-1_zps0303cb7d.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/31.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-18-1_zps779641a3.jpg.html)

Poser shot

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/32.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-22-1_zpsaa8460a9.jpg.html)

[Scouse]

Nice work :).


Front Runner designed a table holder that bolted to the bottom of the rack. It allows you to adjust for width to fit a multitude of tables. This was extremely useful because the P38 has less cargo room then any of the project vehicles we have used.
This is one of the track legs that need to be mounted to the bottom.You could have used the Land Rover kit to make a genuine table:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/82763-p38a-picnic-table.html

[/URL]




[URL="http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-16-1_zps65efbda4.jpg.html"] (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zps8169edc3.jpg.html)

[FiveSPDDisco]

Nice work :).

You could have used the Land Rover kit to make a genuine table:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/82763-p38a-picnic-table.html

[/URL]




[URL="http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-16-1_zps65efbda4.jpg.html"] (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7-6_zps8169edc3.jpg.html)


I did see that before but for $150 i passed

[benji]

SPOTTO!

Has anyone got a copy of rangerover world? There's a familiar looking p38 with Terra firma shocks and bead locks.

Love the table under the rack.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project Update : Squishy stuff

This update all started with Jason "P38Rhino" giving me an idea. He said somewhere on the inter-web he read about using a spacer to push the front radius arm forward. The goal was to help keep it off of the body work. A couple measurements later and a phone call to our spacer manufacture and we had these.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1407.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2-7_zpse3c6f904.jpg.html)

In order to put the spacers on we had to take the front radius arms out. If we were going to take the front radius arms out we might as well install set of Pollybushings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1408.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/0-2_zps1498d309.jpeg.html)

It was a good thing we went for the Pollybushings because the stock ones were reduced to complete garbage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1409.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-26_zpsa7b3815c.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1410.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1-8_zps8dbe20a0.jpg.html)

With the axle portion of the radius arm bushings taken care of it was time to try out our spacer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1411.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3-9_zpsf39800a6.jpg.html)

The spacer fit perfectly. Leaving just a little bit of thread showing. This took advantage of all the extra space that Land Rover provided us.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1412.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5-5_zpsf46fb3bd.jpg.html)

Poser Polly Shot

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1413.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6-6_zps609d7ad0.jpg.html)

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : The scorpion and the frog

Last weekend the P38 went to one of the best family Land Rover events in America, the Wilds.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/791.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/1005040_10151979318253906_1182448277_n_zps5738e79d .jpg.html)

Over the last few years we have been asking the Wilds for more trails with greater difficulty. Each year the trail network gets larger and larger and the difficulty goes up and up. This years addition to the trail network was a water crossing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/792.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/19901_10151979414488906_1504160132_n_zps7f6def62.j pg.html)

After a full day of trail rides we returned to the water crossing as the last obstacle for the night.

Rip P38 - YouTube


As you can see from the video that would be the P38's last obstacle of the event.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/793.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/Screenshot2013-06-19at84821AM_zps744416c2.jpg.html)

Once we had the truck back at the shop the first thing to do was drain the oil.

Water - YouTube

When the oil comes out that clean you know there's an issue. From what we can see underneath rods eight and seven are bent and the pistons have been destroyed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/794.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7_zpse910a0e0.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/795.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-8_zps9df5f618.jpg.html)


Sadly there will be no poser pic but I will leave you with this tale and photo.

One day, a scorpion looked around at the mountain where he lived and decided that he wanted a change. So he set out on a journey through the forests and hills. He climbed over rocks and under vines and kept going until he reached a river.
The river was wide and swift, and the scorpion stopped to reconsider the situation. He couldn't see any way across. So he ran upriver and then checked downriver, all the while thinking that he might have to turn back.
Suddenly, he saw a frog sitting in the rushes by the bank of the stream on the other side of the river. He decided to ask the frog for help getting across the stream.
"Hellooo Mr. Frog!" called the scorpion across the water, "Would you be so kind as to give me a ride on your back across the river?"
"Well now, Mr. Scorpion! How do I know that if I try to help you, you wont try to kill me?" asked the frog hesitantly.
"Because," the scorpion replied, "If I try to kill you, then I would die too, for you see I cannot swim!"
Now this seemed to make sense to the frog. But he asked. "What about when I get close to the bank? You could still try to kill me and get back to the shore!"
"This is true," agreed the scorpion, "But then I wouldn't be able to get to the other side of the river!"
"Alright then...how do I know you wont just wait till we get to the other side and THEN kill me?" said the frog.
"Ahh...," crooned the scorpion, "Because you see, once you've taken me to the other side of this river, I will be so grateful for your help, that it would hardly be fair to reward you with death, now would it?!"
So the frog agreed to take the scorpion across the river. He swam over to the bank and settled himself near the mud to pick up his passenger. The scorpion crawled onto the frog's back, his sharp claws prickling into the frog's soft hide, and the frog slid into the river. The muddy water swirled around them, but the frog stayed near the surface so the scorpion would not drown. He kicked strongly through the first half of the stream, his flippers paddling wildly against the current.
Halfway across the river, the frog suddenly felt a sharp sting in his back and, out of the corner of his eye, saw the scorpion remove his stinger from the frog's back. A deadening numbness began to creep into his limbs.
"You fool!" croaked the frog, "Now we shall both die! Why on earth did you do that?"
The scorpion shrugged, and did a little jig on the drownings frog's back.
"I could not help myself. It is my nature."

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/796.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_2863_zpse3867b69.jpg.html)

[Keithy P38]

As they usually say about Toyota's - "Bugger"!

Plans from here??

[intheozone]

Oh No!!

I know the feeling having sunk my own P38 just a few weeks ago. For me it was a call to my insurance company and a week later I had a new p38 :-)

Will you be doing an engine overhaul? Or is that the end of the project 38

[davidsonsm]

Bugger. What a shame after all the work. A lesson for us all. Will you be breaking and selling bits!!!???

[stickso]

Looking at that first photo I was thinking that's game with no snorkel... shame it didn't end well :(

Makes me even more keen to sort out a snorkel before getting too adventurous with mine.

[Keithy P38]

I know of 4 people who've drowned a P38 on aulro (myself included).

Snorkel should have been a factory option but Land Rover obviously assumed they'd never be used off road!

[FiveSPDDisco]

Have no Fear the P38 will Re-appear

[Pete38]

Have no Fear the P38 will Re-appear

So how'd she go before she went swimming?

[rc42]

I hope you get the P38 nursed back to life soon, I've been following this thread with great interest and will be looking for Ashcroft ATB diffs, HD drive shafts and double cardan propshafts in the near future.

For now though I'm off to read some of the P38 snorkel threads, it suddenly feels like a higher priority.

[FiveSPDDisco]

So how'd she go before she went swimming?

Very well for a truck that has open diffs. I love the P38

[FiveSPDDisco]

I've been following this thread with great interest and will be looking for Ashcroft ATB diffs, HD drive shafts and double cardan propshafts in the near future.


I think ABTs are in the P38s future :)

[DT-P38]

Did the pistons breaking get caused by water entering the engine?

Just wondering... Why doesn't anyone bother to use a Fording Blanket these days? Tarp across the nose could improve the under bonnet (clamshell assisted) pocket of air trapped...

[clubagreenie]

I can envisage a hand prepped 4.6, capable of a few more revs & many more HP filled with fewer rover bits.

[FANTOM P38]

Looks like I was fortunate!
Now I know why Landrover places BECM under driver seat, it is sacrificial!!!
It knocks out the engine before it gets a chance to take a drink:confused:

Thats unless you go at it like a bull out of a gate of course.

I'm sure this will just ensure the Project will come back better & stronger.
Keep us up to date with progress it may take your mind off the cost at least.
regards, Martin

[FiveSPDDisco]

......
,,,

[FiveSPDDisco]

For VOT we needed a winch but the Terrafirma bumper was not ready yet. As the old saying goes necessity is the mother of all invention. A look around the shop for options landed us a Terrafirma discrete winch mount for a Disco 2. After a quick mockup of the side plates we knew we had our answer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1353.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zpsb7265b70.jpg.html)

The side brackets almost fit, but one of the frame mounting holes needed to be slightly extended.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1354.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7_zps906faf7e.jpg.html)

The next issue we ran into was the bumper was in the way of the winch. In order to make room we simply cut out the section giving us a problem.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1355.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zpse989b2b9.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1356.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zpsd8d0bf7f.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1357.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3_zps3baa88d2.jpg.html)

All together we had this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1358.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4_zps4b03db5b.jpg.html)

And with the winch installed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1359.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5_zpsb2d533f5.jpg.html)

An unseen advantage to this installation was the winch tray acts as a lower radiator guard.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1360.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6_zps224b29aa.jpg.html)

And the poser pic.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1361.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps9379e401.jpg.html)

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Resurrection

We all have that special edition P38 we like. For me it is the Rhino. I just love the ostrich seats and the mystic green wood trim. As luck would have it there was one on craigslist that needed some TLC and more importantly it was in my price range. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what happened.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/197.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps9d6a4115.jpg.html)

The downside to this choice was we needed to move every one of those accessories and modifications over to the Rhino. In retrospect putting in another motor would've been far easier and faster.

Without further ado here is the new L8 P38

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1338.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-16_zps5f4bba96.jpg.html)


OK that pic sucks..

Hows this one ?


?



?




?


?


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1339.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_4169-1_zps33e6e877.jpg.html)


I'm sure a few of you with a keen eye have already noticed some differences beyond the color of the truck. The rest of you must still be looking at our new shop girl Amy

The first thing we wanted to do was lift the truck a bit more. Changing the springs was an option but we were very happy with the current ride quality. To keep everything the same but get more lift we added 1 inch spacers. On any other classic generation Land Rover adding springs spacers is a no-brainer, but the P 38 is not just any Land Rover. The issue is the air to coil conversion plates. The studs on the conversion plates are only long enough to accommodate the spring seat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1340.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps0215bee1.jpg.html)

The first thought was to get longer studs but we decided that drilling two holes in the axle mounting bracket would be the best solution. The easiest way to accomplish this was to use the air to coil conversion plate with the studs knocked out of it as a template.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1341.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zpsdff4eb19.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1342.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps21807c91.jpg.html)

Another way to do it his use a 1 1/2 spacer and remove the air to coil conversion plate but in the interest of science we went with this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1343.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps0298ff2a.jpg.html)

The front was a completely different challenge. You cannot drill all the way through because the axle housing is in the way.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1344.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps2f9ca4d0.jpg.html)

We needed to get a little bit creative with this one. The solution that came to mind was drilling and tapping the air to coil conversion plate

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1345.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps2ae87984.jpg.html)

In the front we were not getting any dislocation and I was not afraid of the stress put on the air to coil conversion retaining pin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1346.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zpsb988b5ee.jpg.html)

Here is a side view with the new lift.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1347.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps48d55874.jpg.html)

With the extra lift the axles were way off making new panhard bars a must. A quick phone call to Rovertym and we had 2 new ones on our tailgate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1348.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zps7c8e7e66.jpg.html)

Did I mention they were fully adjustable ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1349.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps29a35f17.jpg.html)

With the suspension squared away it was time to try out the new prototype bumper from Terrafirma. The initial test fitting went well, the only possible downside for some is you need to remove the trailer hitch . Personally I didn't want the trailer hitch on the truck so this is a non-issue. Do you guys care if you need to remove your trailer hitch in order to fit the bumper?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1350.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps11d59761.jpg.html)

With VOT" Vermont expedition trophy " right around the corner there was no time to send the bumper out for powder coating. So we rattle canned it black and threw it on the truck.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1351.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps1e55b974.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1352.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zps5f3964e4.jpg.html)
.............

[PaulP38a]

Really liking the new Rhino and accessories.
Only downside I see to removing the trailer hitch, other than no longer having an option to tow stuff in the conventional manner, is that it is a great recovery point with the correct block and pin.
Your bar solves that problem with a couple of shackles and an equalising strap though.
Keep the updates coming, with more Amy to complete the poser shots :)

[benji]

If that bar was in oz 12 months ago I would have looked at it, it looks really nice. But, we do tow a fair bit.

Id say most owners wouldn't want to give up their towbar even if they don't tow; it's there if they need it. As that's one of the great things about the rangies is their ability to tow almost anything.

[stickso]

Looking pretty awesome. How's the castor angle with that much lift? Does it wander on the highway much?

Regarding the trailer hitch I wouldn't want to give mine up but that is a nice looking rear bar.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Amy to complete the poser shots :)

Next post will have one for you sir

[FiveSPDDisco]

If that bar was in oz 12 months ago I would have looked at it, it looks really nice. But, we do tow a fair bit.

Id say most owners wouldn't want to give up their towbar even if they don't tow; it's there if they need it. As that's one of the great things about the rangies is their ability to tow almost anything.

Terrafirma has been made aware of everybody's opinion about removing the trailer hitch

[FiveSPDDisco]

Looking pretty awesome. How's the castor angle with that much lift? Does it wander on the highway much?


This truck does not see to much highway use. That said with the panhard bars install the truck tracks fairly straight.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Disclaimer: I don't know if the Crocodile Dundee comment will translate from US to Australian. If it does not please forgive me it was not meant to be disrespectful.


Project update : Super lock no more

I bet if we took a poll for the worst thing about the P38, super lock would be the uncontested winner. I have had my fair share of P38's and never had an issue with super lock until three days before the VOT.
Let me paint the picture for you. To prep for VOT I had the truck fully loaded with everything, roof rack, tent, jerrycans, sand ladders, the whole nine and I was driving it around town looking like a complete tool. All I needed was a Crocodile Dundee hat to complete the ultimate poser look
In my defense I was trying to work out any bugs with the new truck, suspension and extra weight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/193.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_4196_zpscae9a5e2.jpg.html)

So Top Chef Dave calls me up and says he's making chicken fajitas for VOT and asked if I would pick up some Corona beer to go with the dinner. I said yes having no idea I was about to enter the…………………………….
SUPER ……………. LOCK…………………… ZONE! " cue twilight zone music "

With all the stuff in the truck I decided to lock the door before I went into the store.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/194.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_5495_zps8777c936.jpg.html)

Back with the beer I manually unlocked the truck to my surprise it locked all the doors again but the driver. So I turned the key in the opposite direction and it relocked. With a puzzled look on my face I turn the key yet again. It locked all the doors but the driver. Happy to have access to the truck I opened the door only to be greeted by the horn. The buttons on the key fob were useless so I put the key in the ignition and turned it.
..
..
..
..
..
Yep you guessed it, Nothing except for the kindly little reminder on the display saying I was screwed. Or is Land Rover puts it in a much more polite way engine immobilized.
The silver lining in all of this is I had access to the drivers door. So in the parking lot I put in my spare BECM and ECU. It is a real pain in the ass when you cannot opened the passenger door.
I can only imagine how many Toyotas I sold that day as people watched me practically lying upside down with my feet out the door to take out the passenger seat. On second thought I wish I had that Crocodile Dundee hat to hide my face.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/195.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zpsa8152b62.jpg.html)

The positive side is the BECM swap is relatively fast and painless. Plus I'm really glad that did not happen during VOT.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/198.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/_DSC8311_zpsb9ad3393.jpg.html)

After a little research the culprit was the drivers door lock actuator. Never wanting to be locked out of the truck again I decided to disconnect the power plugs going to the two front door actuators.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/196.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps5bb4a86d.jpg.html)

I have now moved back in time and my doors were working on 1950 technology. To lock the door, push down to unlock, pull up. Perfect!! Basking in my own brilliance I went to the back of the truck to load the fridge with Corona and pushed this button.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/197.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps9d6a4115.jpg.html)

Humbled once again. The rear hatch receives its ground through the plug in the passenger side door lock actuator. I had outsmarted myself. I could open any door except for the hatch. Off-again came the door card and I plugged in the passenger side door actuator. This granted me access to the hatch. Stripping down the hatch you'll see that Land Rover conveniently labeled all the wires the same color white.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/198.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3_zps573ac21b.jpg.html)

You need to trace the ground side of the hatch actuator

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/199.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4_zps8e6bafaf.jpg.html)

all the way back to the cubby.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/200.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps343a326b.jpg.html)

You can ground the white wire into the 12v convenience outlet like I did. With that done your hatch will always work. I have a relay idea that will allow the hatch to work only when the key is in the on position for people that need to keep the vehicle secured.

Next up will be traction action until then I leave you with this poser picture from VOT.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/201.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/_DSC8366_zps26d73bd8.jpg.html)

[Disco Muppet]

I'm sure a few of you with a keen eye have already noticed some differences beyond the color of the truck. The rest of you must still be looking at our new shop girl Amy
.............

There's a P38 in that photo? :confused: :D

I'll admit, I've never been a huge fan of the P38 but your Rhino looks fantastic. :cool:
Nicely done.
Cheers
Muppet

[FiveSPDDisco]

There's a P38 in that photo? :confused: :D

I'll admit, I've never been a huge fan of the P38 but your Rhino looks fantastic. :cool:
Nicely done.
Cheers
Muppet

Thank you for the kind words

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Traction action

The " VOT " Vermont Overland Trophy really prompted us to add a traction aid. We could've went with a bunch of options but we decided to go with the new Ashcroft ABT. The ABT is a limited slip diff using six helical gears to distribute power. When compared to a true track the Ashcroft unit is far superior in power distribution and build quality.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1123.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/d1076_zpsbd704170.jpg.html)

I can hear some of you complaining already. Yes we could've easily dropped in a locker but that would not have given us any real world experience with the ABT. I really wanted to see how the ABT did with the P38 second-generation traction control throughout the VOT

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/831.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130811_110538_zps0211cc05.jpg.html)

With the rear differential out of the truck we took it to the secret layer of lucky8's diff Jedi. It is rumored that he repaired an LT230 by only using his feet. I don't know if it's true but when I showed up he was wearing his shoes on his hands. Here's a look at the Black arts involve in upgrading the carrier.

Checking the backlash on the ringing pinion before dismantle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1306.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zpsac852092.jpg.html)

Out with the carrier

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1307.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-12_zps643b9dc8.jpg.html)

The ABT unit ready to take the place of the week factory carrier.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1308.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-11_zps132f9d80.jpg.html)

If you ever give this a go on your own I cannot convey enough how important it is to use Loctite on the ring bolts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1309.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-9_zps2bda2bcc.jpg.html)

It is so important it deserves a second picture

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1310.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-10_zps195308db.jpg.html)

An interesting bit about the P38 diff. You can use the same carriers from a D1 But you need a spacer ring to compensate for the difference in thickness.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1311.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-8_zps1e4d0a7c.jpg.html)

Just a few more finishing touches left.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/188.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-7_zps9f9d3a61.jpg.html)

With all the extra weight we planned on carrying it was not worth betting on stock axles to get the job done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1312.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3_zps273087e7.jpg.html)

It was time for a set of Ashcroft heavy duties!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1313.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zps292bf01d.jpg.html)

And yes they are ABS compatible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1314.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo_zps6b6728cd.jpg.html)

The ABT did fantastic for us at VOT. Aside from a little noise during low traction situations you would not know it was in the truck.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1315.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130809_121326_zps93b80018.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1316.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/_DSC8306_zpsfe69c5c9.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1317.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/_DSC8312_zps3b66b293.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1318.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130809_115432_zps93d68e71.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1319.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130809_115022_zpsabf95428.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1320.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130809_104756_1_zpsd2957efe.jpg.html)

L8 VOT Team

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1321.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/_DSC8373_zpsc14c317b.jpg.html)


The take away from this adventure is the ABT provides an incredible amount of traction when combined with the ABS system.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1322.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/20130809_115528_zpsa1bf25a0.jpg.html)


Poser pic courtesy of Amy


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1124.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_4289E_zps6333631a.jpg.html)



OOOh

I


almost


forgot

.




.







.





Snorkel V2.1



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1175.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zpsa30b0de2.jpg.html)

[davidsonsm]

Are the HD axles of the shelf?

Looking forward to seeing the next installment. Particularly on the snorkel.

[mtb_gary]

Love the roof rack accessory :cool:

Gary

[33chinacars]

And more of Amy :angel::angel:

[clubagreenie]

Is there an Amy compatible rack available for a D2? I'd bend over backwards for one.

[FANTOM P38]

Nice Rack!!! :wasntme:

[intheozone]

OOOh

I


almost


forgot

.




.







.





Snorkel V2.1



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1175.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zpsa30b0de2.jpg.html)

SNORKEL!!!
Will you be making it commercially available

[FiveSPDDisco]

Are the HD axles of the shelf?



We have stock on the axels

Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled... (http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=7365#prettyPhoto)

[FiveSPDDisco]

SNORKEL!!!
Will you be making it commercially available

Yes :)

[Keithy P38]

You lads are going to start to own the P38 aftermarket industry soon enough :-)

Are you planning on making your snorkel a stainless item or just using the stainless as a template for something else?

[DT-P38]

Yes :)

FWIW, when you do can I have one with out a big ugly lump in it?

Everyone who makes one seems to have to add a nasty bulge to allow clearance for the "clamshell" bonnet going up and down. I would rather lose a bit of paint from the bonnet scraping or have a bit of teflon or something between the two suyrfaces to allow them to slide along each other, or even have the snorkel take a slightly wider line from bottom to top. IMHO there is absolutely no point having an ugly piece of lumpy, curvy, bendy kit on such a tightly styled, relatively straight lined, mostly curveless, vehicle.

In saying that, no RAI at all would be better... how about loooking at a switchable system that retains the standard intake but has a switchable T valve to allow temporary air intake from the cabin for water crossings?

[mtb_gary]

FWIW, when you do can I have one with out a big ugly lump in it?


In saying that, no RAI at all would be better... how about loooking at a switchable system that retains the standard intake but has a switchable T valve to allow temporary air intake from the cabin for water crossings?

I like your thinking...just open the sun roof during the crossing then switch back to normal intake once you are no longer under water ;)

Gary

[benji]

I think the only exception to that would be that the guard is quite a dusty place to draw air from, and a snorkel may allow you to run a pre-filter.
Though having the air filters that don't fit properly and travelling in convoy probably negates all that. And there's nothing wrong with cleaning out the filter every couple of days either.

Id rather the cabin option too; but either way some sort or rai is necessary.

[Keithy P38]

The lump isn't that "hideous" in person! Mine doesn't physically bulge out, it's perfectly level until the bend where it heads up the windscreen profile.

Cheers
Keithy

[Pete38]

I think the only exception to that would be that the guard is quite a dusty place to draw air from, and a snorkel may allow you to run a pre-filter.
Though having the air filters that don't fit properly and travelling in convoy probably negates all that. And there's nothing wrong with cleaning out the filter every couple of days either.

Id rather the cabin option too; but either way some sort or rai is necessary.

I had thought about installing a flexible pipe in the engine bay that drew the air from just under the bonnet. The flexible pipe would connect to where the MAF is instead of the airbox for short crossings... Yeh yeh it's hot and might be dirty air but would that matter for a short crossing?


No drilling of guards, no modifying the airbox and completely normal running conditions when the flexi hose isn't connected.

Haven't looked in great depth into this so it might not even be possible. Like how much the connection from the MAF to the air intake/airbox connection can flex to allow the connection.

[FiveSPDDisco]

You lads are going to start to own the P38 aftermarket industry soon enough :-)

Are you planning on making your snorkel a stainless item or just using the stainless as a template for something else?

It will be stainless coated in black.

[FiveSPDDisco]

FWIW, when you do can I have one with out a big ugly lump in it?

Everyone who makes one seems to have to add a nasty bulge

What are you saying?
We do not have a lump.

[TheTree]

HI

I am still toying with the idea of fitting a Disco style air intake on the outside of the guard.

The idea is to be able to remove the Intake grill and attach a temporary RAI when needed.

However should a good snorkel appear on the market, i would be very tempted !

Of course I have a list of other things as long as my arm that I plan to do as well :p

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Project update : Traction action

The " VOT " Vermont Overland Trophy really prompted us to add a traction aid. We could've went with a bunch of options but we decided to go with the new Ashcroft ABT. The ABT is a limited slip diff using six helical gears to distribute power. When compared to a true track the Ashcroft unit is far superior in power distribution and build quality.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1123.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/d1076_zpsbd704170.jpg.html)


Poser pic courtesy of Amy


[URL=http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/IMG_4289E_zps6333631a.jpg.html]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1124.jpg

Are you planning on putting the ABT in the front diff in addition to the rear?

Gary

[FiveSPDDisco]

Are you planning on putting the ABT in the front diff in addition to the rear?

Gary



I dont know yet. Im thinking of putting a Locker in the Rear and then moving the ATB To the front.

[mtb_gary]

I dont know yet. Im thinking of putting a Locker in the Rear and then moving the ATB To the front.

ATB's are on my wish list for front & rear. I like the idea of not havng to stop to engage a diff lock, or lose power when the traction control kicks in. esp around my area which is primarily soft sand dunes.

Gary

[Keithy P38]

Who said you need to stop to engage a locker!

[Pete38]

Who said you need to stop to engage a locker!

Good point Keith. Yeh no need to stop to put a locker on. I've enabled mine heaps of time without stopping. Only thing you shouldn't do is enable it when one wheel is going a lot faster than the other side I'd say.... Then you probably aren't moving anyway if that is happening so there's no problem backing the throttle off to enable the locker.

So the ABT would be better for steering in the front over a locker but it doesn't lock as well when a wheel is lifted huh? So its a good sacrifice to still have decent steering in the front. Might look into these over a locker if I go down locking the front... to compliment the rear locker.

[clubagreenie]

In something with TC the ABT is seemless you generally won't need to think about engaging it. If you stop then you probably need more than the diff for the sake of the axles

[benji]

Or dont unlock a locker whilst its under torque, it goes TING!

As I understand the angle of the helical gears are quite steep so it'll 'ramp up'quite strongly in response to the tc. Im guessing 85-90 percent locked?

[Pete38]

Or dont unlock a locker whilst its under torque, it goes TING!

As I understand the angle of the helical gears are quite steep so it'll 'ramp up'quite strongly in response to the tc. Im guessing 85-90 percent locked?

Thanks. I'll be keeping that in mind then Benji. Is this with an Ashcroft or another brand like ARB? I'm listening to your advice, just surprised it would disengage under torque. Maybe other brands have stronger springs to disengage them?

I've found my ashcroft locker seems to stay locked with the air turned off even under the slightest load so surprised to hear it ting when disabling under load. I haven't tried when under high load and likely won't either now.

The first test run I did was on grass. Turn it on then did a tight turn to see it churned the grass up on the inside wheel which proved it was active. Turned the air off and it still churned the inside tyre until I put the car in neutral or went into reverse to take all load off it. Even driving in a straight line seemed to keep it locked. Maybe turning the other direction would have disengaged it though. Well mine did anyway.

Not disengaging even under the small load is actually one thing that concerns me and always do some tight turns to make sure it's turned off before hitting the bitumen again. Just sitting there with the brakes on and in drive seems to keep it locked so can't see it disengaging when under much load.

But you guys have got me tempted to get one of these ATB for the front now though because I never fancied a locker in the front unless driving in a straight line. Just not sure if that thousand odd bucks delivered to Oz will be too noticeable with a rear locker and traction control on the front already. Happy to be convinced though :p

[Pete38]

Are these things only 295 pounds plus the p38 spacer and postage? So only 434 pounds delivered to Sydney. Hmm that's getting more tempting now.

So they don't encourage understeer on the road at all?

Are they as strong as the front 4 pin diffs?

Any comparison to the other brand ATB diffs ashcroft sell that are more expensive?

[clubagreenie]

No understeer at al. And I shouod know as mine was fitted with 3" lift and no correction. Mine was 440 landed door to door. As for strength and comparisons, they seem to take onboard whats out there, then re engineer it tobebetter and at a nicer price point. Just look at thefull locker compared to an arb

[benji]

I was driving a defender up Licola way and dissengaged the rear arb locker to late, thought I'd broken something.

A torsen type diff will only ever want to equalise the torque between the two wheels, not the rotational speed. They do however need torque applied to both axle sides, and the more torque differentiation that occurs the more they lock which is why they amplify the effectiveness of traction control. However, if a wheel is in the air no torque can be transfered on that side, but again, the traction control transfers that torque.


There's a few good articles on wikipedia.

[Keithy P38]

Peter,

I've noticed that when cold (and I'm talking 'just started up for the day and there's a nice washed out hill I need to climb' cold) that it'll give a little click upon disengaging, but provided you are not under a good load it'll disengage no worries with no noises, and is never noisy when the diff is warm.

[RR P38]

What is the installation process with the ATB.
Do you need to do any mods on the diff?
Reset the backlash etc?

[ozscott]

What a great write up!

5SPDDisco I assume you have used a full locker before in your travels. Can you give us some more info on how the Ashcroft ATB performs in concerto with Electronic Traction Control, in comparison to a fully locked differential, especially at the extremes of wheel articulation.

Many thanks.

Cheers

[FiveSPDDisco]

What is the installation process with the ATB.
Do you need to do any mods on the diff?
Reset the backlash etc?

Just the spacer ring and a normal carrier instal that involves the backlash reset.

[FiveSPDDisco]

What a great write up!



Thank you for the kind words.


What a great write up!

5SPDDisco I assume you have used a full locker before in your travels. Can you give us some more info on how the Ashcroft ATB performs in concerto with Electronic Traction Control, in comparison to a fully locked differential, especially at the extremes of wheel articulation.

Many thanks.

There is no substitute for a true locker. That being said the Ashcroft ATB is pretty close when combined with the second-generation P38 traction control.

[FiveSPDDisco]

Project update : Snorkel V2.2

I think we are getting very close to a final product. I'm sure your opinions do not need any solicitation so let me have them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/223.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4_zps3c3da7db.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/816.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-5_zps4063ec24.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/817.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-3_zps8a632d05.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/202.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-1_zps02438fc4.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/818.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-2_zps41627493.jpg.html)

I want to lower the intake head so it is flush with the roof line.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/819.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-6_zps49a57400.jpg.html)


With the top lowered I think it will blend into the truck nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/223.jpg (http://s542.photobucket.com/user/Lucky8Rental/media/L8%20shop/photo-4_zps3c3da7db.jpg.html)

[benji]

That looks awesome. Apologies to the others who have snorkels, but that is the best one I've seen.

Can you see it from your passenger seat?

How is it routed internally, ie, could it work with the eas still there?

Thanks for all the work you have put in.

[FiveSPDDisco]

That looks awesome. Apologies to the others who have snorkels, but that is the best one I've seen.


That is unbelievably kind of you. Thank you very much






Can you see it from your passenger seat?
.

I don't think so. But I'll look tomorrow. Why?





How is it routed internally, ie, could it work with the eas still there?

Thanks for all the work you have put in.

It is design to work with EAS. I needed to get the pipe finished before we did the stuff on the inside.

[Pete38]

That looks awesome. Apologies to the others who have snorkels, but that is the best one I've seen.

Can you see it from your passenger seat?

How is it routed internally, ie, could it work with the eas still there?

Thanks for all the work you have put in.

I second that. Looks great. Funny part was a guy on the weekend was saying to route it very similar to that... But thought it wasn't gonna be easy. But gee that's much tidier than I envisioned.

Thanks for the initiative and doing the hard work. Would be very keen to buy a snorkel along with your great ideas from you guys once done.. Assuming shipping ain't a problem.