ACE Ram replacement

[mattg]

HI Crew.

I have replacement ACE rams to be fitted. thanks Gaz.

Is there any tricks to fitting these without letting much air in and once fitted how can I bleed them without a Nanno?

I have done a search but don't get much of a response as I need more then three letters.

cheers

Matt

[mattg]

Anyone?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

All I can offer is it should bleed itself--


what was wrong with the ram?

[mattg]

Bad leaks from the seal and the ende bushes are flogged out. Turns out they are supposed to have some movement as in swivel as they have a ball in the centre of the bush.

A note though is that the boots on the bushes can be removed to press the new bush in without damaging the new bushes

Insane tight bolt holding the whole thing together.

[antond]

I am about to replace my front ram but there are a couple of tricks. Firstly you will need the removal tool or construct one as the rod end will spin when you try to remove the nut without some way to secure it. The second issue is air in the system.

[antond]

I have read people bleeding without nanocom (bumpy roads, cross-axling, etc) but if you study how the system works these will never remove all trapped the air and will only reduce the effectiveness of the ace system. Machine bleed is really the only way to go. There are many in the LR community who I'm sure will lend a nanocom for you (inc me if you are local).

[mattg]

I have the mounting arm still attached so fitting should be easy. Antond where about are you I am in port Macquarie. Cheers Matt

[antond]

Brisbane but I think there is a register on this forum of nanocom owners. See if there is one close to you.

[antond]

Btw I also was advised when I sourced he replacement parts the banjo bolt washers should also be replaced otherwise they leak.

[mattg]

On the washers a cool trick my mechanic told me was to put the washer on a BBQ plate and heat then up with a blow torch until they glow then let them cool down in their own time. They return to shape and seal again. Will try this trick on these washers and let you know

[clubagreenie]

Dude, the washer will (or should) be cents each. Just source from a hydraulics supplier.

[OffTrack]

How hard is it to get the removal tool? European SPX won't ship to Australia, and the response from SPX Australia was - "we only sell to Landrover Dealers - you'll have to see if your dealer will sell you one".

[clubagreenie]

Contact Tadkturk on here. He just replaced his and I bled it for him. He didn't use a special tool. I've pulled mine as well and didn't use anything special.

[OffTrack]

Contact Tadkturk on here. He just replaced his and I bled it for him. He didn't use a special tool. I've pulled mine as well and didn't use anything special.

Did you have any issues with the central rod spinning when you pulled yours? I'm a bit cautious about tackling as I just need to replace the boot rather than the entire actuator, and don't want to be in a situation where I need to use vice grips to hold the central rod.

It's probably a good thing that the official tool is hard to source as I expect it will be expensive. The pricing in EU was 44euro which is manageable, but US SPX had it listed for $177US, so you'd imagine the Australian pricing would be high $200's. :angel:

I have a fairly good idea of what is required to fab a suitable tool just need to pay a visit to my brother in Yarra Junction to use his lathe and mill.

cheers
Paul

[clubagreenie]

Unfortunately mines still at the panel beaters so I can't just have a look but looking at rave it's just like a shock except that you don't have access to the shaft end.

I just undid it, must have bee stuck enough. You could make it easy enough. Just a socket with lever welded on, drilled out to take tool for shaft end.

[OffTrack]

Unfortunately mines still at the panel beaters so I can't just have a look but looking at rave it's just like a shock except that you don't have access to the shaft end.

I just undid it, must have bee stuck enough. You could make it easy enough. Just a socket with lever welded on, drilled out to take tool for shaft end.

Sounds much like what I was going to do. Being a flat dweller I don't have any tool at home so I have to travel to do stuff like this.

The tool is basically a short lever with a cutout for a 3/8 or 1/2" square drive at one end and a socket at the other. I was going to get a reasonable quality socket and cut the 1/2" drive section off and weld it into a bit of flat steel with a suitable squarish cut out for a torque wrench. The other part is just a bit of rod with a slot machined into one end and flats on the other.

cheers
Paul

[clubagreenie]

measure the flats of the end of the shaft, it may be the same as a std socket drive end size, 1/4 most likely then cut the socket across the square end.