Attention Diesel Discovery Owners

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I was going to post this message in the Discovery section however it was split into three different Series which did not really suit my question.

I would like to replace my daily driver later in the year. I would like to get a diesel discovery however since my Land Rover knowledge is limited to my hobby of Series 3 Land Rovers as in ones bult in the 1970s to 1980s I do not know much about Discos.

So of the different series of the diesel Discoveries what has been the most reliable and has good parts availability?

What are things I should look out for when buying a Discovery?

What are the little or large traps for new players which divides out the different between a decent or a dodgy Disco?

My budget would be around the $10K mark.

My timeframe is not until the start of the next financial year so I have some time to learn more about Discovery related things.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[isuzurover]

$10k would mean either a 300Tdi D1 (a very good one with lots of money left over) or a TD5 D2.

I have a 1997 D1 300 Tdi manual. It has generally been reliable, and is certainly convenient, however if I were you I would go for a TD5 D2, however not the first couple of years of production.

D1 300tdi - things to watch for:
Rust around alpine windows
Head gaskets all fail at ~250k km
Check the ABS and SRS lights light up, many owners remove the globes rather than fix problems
The temp guage is binary - it instantly goes between OK and Buggered engine, with no warning. Install a VDO or similar.
The rear power windows have a fault in the circuit board which often stops them working (or makes them work intermittently).

[robbotd5]

You wont be disappointed with a 03, 04 D2a TD5 with the lowest K's and a good service history and preferably, bog stock. A great vehicle. Most issues can be resolved easily and on the whole cheaply. Plenty of advice and support here!. Love mine.
Regards
Robbo

[Lionelgee]

However if I were you I would go for a TD5 D2, however not the first couple of years of production.

G'day IsuzuRover,

Since I am starting my Disco research today ... which years of manufacture should I avoid?

So the binary temp gauge is like a temperature warning light - once it comes on it's too late!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

You wont be disappointed with a 03, 04 D2a TD5 with the lowest K's and a good service history and preferably, bog stock. A great vehicle. Most issues can be resolved easily and on the whole cheaply. Plenty of advice and support here!. Love mine.
Regards
Robbo


G'day Robbo,

Sorry to confirm something probably very basic :angel: - the 03 and 04 refers to 2003 and 2004 as in year of manufacture? Just remember I am very new to Discos so I am still learning about model codes :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[robbotd5]

G'day Robbo,

Sorry to confirm something probably very basic :angel: - the 03 and 04 refers to 2003 and 2004 as in year of manufacture? Just remember I am very new to Discos so I am still learning about model codes :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

Yes mate, spot on;);)
Regards
Robbo

[Tote]

If you are looking at a disco 2 be aware that there was a period where Land Rover decided it was unnecessary to fit a centre diff lock. Early models had it, then they deleted the engagement but left the mechanism in the TC then they deleted it all together. The last series had it refitted.
Disco 2 gives you about six inches more interior room over a Disco 1. Disco 1 had 2 engines fitted, 200TDI and 300TDI. 300 is the preferable unit .


Regards,
Tote

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I decided to go to the first fount of all knowledge - (Wikipedia.com) and they wrote that the Series 1 Discovery years of production 1989–1998; and the Discovery Series II was in production between 1998–2004.

I should have gone there first once I started think about looking into Discos to at least get a bit of rudimentary knowledge about them. Thank you all for your patience :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[loanrangie]

You'll get a very good TDI for less than 10k but i wouldnt buy a TD5 for 10k, i would look at 12-15k.

[pop058]

Lionel,

manual or auto ??

[Lionelgee]

You'll get a very good TDI for less than 10k but i wouldnt buy a TD5 for 10k, i would look at 12-15k.


Thanks Loanrangie - I thought that might be the case for the newer model. I figured 10K would be a reasonable starting place :)

I have been checking eBay for a while just getting use to the idea of a Land Rover not looking like a Series 3 or a Defender in shape. I have even started to play "spot the Disco"

With out the risk of raining retribution down on myself I would like a bit more of comfort and space for a daily driver than what one of my Series 3 LWB's can provide :wasntme:.

I will keep my Series 3s as my hobby. Discos are just that little different than a Defender so my hobby stays fresh.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,

manual or auto ??

What Paul? You mean there is a choice!!! :eek:

Wow Discos are more advanced than ex-Army Series 3 Land Rovers :o

I think I am on the very steep end of a learning curve here :)

Just as well I have 7 months or so to decide :D

Kind Regards
Lionel

[isuzurover]

...

So the binary temp gauge is like a temperature warning light - once it comes on it's too late!



It has a normal looking temp guage, however the sensitivity has not been well designed. It will sit on normal until seconds before the coolant boils - at which point it will jump straight to the top of the red.

[OffTrack]

At the $10K price point you'd really need to be patient to find a D2 td5 that was worth buying. You certainly won't find a 2003 or 2004 with low km for much less than $15K.

I don't really think the early D2's are particularly bad, after all at the time the UK motoring press thought they were a vast improvement over the D1. ;)

( See file attached to this post:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/166108-original-disco-2-sales-brochures-2000-a.html#post1827663 for a road test of the 1998 D2 Td5)

I put together a introduction to D2 model years and key changes which can be found as a sticky in the D2 sub-forum: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/155178-model-years-build-dates-vins.html

Up to about april 2001 the transfer case had the diff lock internals fitted but no lever. There are various aftermarket levers available but you'd have to factor $4-600 to retrofit.

There was a period of about 16 months (last few months of 2001MY and all of 2002MY) where the d2 didn't have the diff lock internals fitted to the transfer case. If you were planning on doing off road work and wanted to retro fit the most cost effective solution would be a diff lock kit at around $600 plus lever as above. For off-roading the late 2001MY are probably best avoided. 2002MY Td5 were fitted with the revised EU3 motor which gave 40nm more torque and came with a reprogramable ECU and larger intercooler which make it a good proposition despite the missing CDL.

cheers
Paul

[pop058]

What Paul? You mean there is a choice!!! :eek:

Wow Discos are more advanced than ex-Army Series 3 Land Rovers :o

I think I am on the very steep end of a learning curve here :)

Just as well I have 7 months or so to decide :D

Kind Regards
Lionel

I could drop around and give you a steer of the wife's 96 D1. It is a stock V8 auto on LPG, so not really a fair horsepower fight against a TDi :D

BUT, the noise MMMMM :)

[Lionelgee]

At the $10K price point you'd really need to be patient to find a D2 td5 that was worth buying. You certainly won't find a 2003 or 2004 with low km for much less than $15K.

I don't really think the early D2's are particularly bad, after all at the time the UK motoring press thought they were a vast improvement over the D1. ;)

( See file attached to this post:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/166108-original-disco-2-sales-brochures-2000-a.html#post1827663 for a road test of the 1998 D2 Td5)

I put together a introduction to D2 model years and key changes which can be found as a sticky in the D2 sub-forum: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/155178-model-years-build-dates-vins.html

Up to about april 2001 the transfer case had the diff lock internals fitted but no lever. There are various aftermarket levers available but you'd have to factor $4-600 to retrofit.

There was a period of about 16 months (last few months of 2001MY and all of 2002MY) where the d2 didn't have the diff lock internals fitted to the transfer case. If you were planning on doing off road work and wanted to retro fit the most cost effective solution would be a diff lock kit at around $600 plus lever as above. For off-roading the late 2001MY are probably best avoided. 2002MY Td5 were fitted with the revised EU3 motor which gave 40nm more torque and came with a reprogramable ECU and larger intercooler which make it a good proposition despite the missing CDL.

cheers
Paul


Hello Paul,

Thank you for the links and for the information too - it is much appreciated.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

I could drop around and give you a steer of the wife's 96 D1. It is a stock V8 auto on LPG, so not really a fair horsepower fight against a TDi :D

BUT, the noise MMMMM :)

G'day Paul,

Yes I do like the noise of a V8 but I don't like the money you have to pay the Department of Transport each year to pay for the privilege of having one.

There is a Disco in the yard near the Kennedy Bridge that I spotted. The yard was still closed up for the holidays when I last looked. Not sure what engine type it is or now you mentioned type of gearbox. Or what Series either as I saw it as I drove past. I might pop in there and ask for a test drive!

Could be fun :twisted:

Kind Regards
Lionel

[pop058]

G'day Paul,

Yes I do like the noise of a V8 but I don't like the money you have to pay the Department of Transport each year to pay for the privilege of having one.

There is a Disco in the yard near the Kennedy Bridge that I spotted. The yard was still closed up for the holidays when I last looked. Not sure what engine type it is or now you mentioned type of gearbox. Or what Series either as I saw it as I drove past. I might pop in there and ask for a test drive!

Could be fun :twisted:

Kind Regards
Lionel

2001 D2. 4.0lt V8 auto in Bonatti Grey (i think). So called top of the range 7 seater, but no leather. My daughter took it for a test drive and it goes well. Was in the dealers office with the deposit in her pocket for it, but a few little issues (some warning lights on and lack of service history, etc.) turned the deal into "thanks, but no thanks". Bought the 96 instead.

[Blknight.aus]

if you're out the switch way I'm happy to let you have a look over a good $5k d1 and a dodgieish $2k unit.

[Datt]

I love my 03 td5 D2, but will hopefully be upgrading to a Discovery 4 in the near future.

Going by red book prices you would have to extend your budget a bit for an 03/04, which may or may not be an option.

2003 Land Rover Discovery S Td5 03MY

Private Prices
$15,900 - $18,600
Trade In Prices
$11,900 - $14,600
Average Km
150,000 - 250,000

Hope that helps in some way.

Matt.

[isuzurover]

There are a few around fairly cheap that may be a reasonable buy...
e.g.
Land Rover Discovery TD5 TURBO DIESEL | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Gosford Area - Gosford (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gosford/cars-vans-utes/land-rover-discovery-td5-turbo-diesel/1011510181)

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/maroochydore/cars-vans-utes/2000-land-rover-discovery-wagon-td5/1011550309

I suspect that prices on the D2a's will fall a fair bit over the next 7 months.

[Tote]

If you have time to wait consider buying over winter as sales drop and private seller 4wds are particularly difficult to move. When I sold my D2 I listed it in March and didn't sell it till September when I had an avalanche of callers. It went for $12,500. 180,000 KM TD5 manual with ACE, one owner and service history.
By the way, ACE is active cornering enhancement, a hydraulically activated sway bar that dramatically reduces body roll.

Regards,
Tote

[Sleepy]

G'day LG

I'll sell you my petrol V8 for $4K ....think of all the petrol you could buy with 6 grand.....:p

Seriously though, go and drive a D1 Tdi and then a D2 Td5.....I find the Td5 a fair way ahead of the Tdi in terms of refinement and grunt.

Having said that many are "scared" off by the foilbles found in the td5...much of this depends on how much "spanner work" you intend to do yourself.

Don't forget to leave a few grand in your budget. No matter what you buy, something will be due for repair....this is not something to be scared off but should be factored into the deal....it may give you some leverage on the price.

If you go for a tdi make sure there are records of a timing belt change.....if it hasn't been done, get it done straight away. Budget for this too.

Get someone who knows land rovers to inspect whatever you choose.....the money spent here may save you thousands.

Some of the oldest Tdi's are now over 20 yo. Get familiar with the two types of Disco 1's .....you can tell by the older interior. The later ones started appearing in 1994.

Many prefer the earlier diesel (200Tdi...pre 1994/5) but parts may start to become an issue in future.

[pop058]

G'day LG

I'll sell you my petrol V8 for $4K ....think of all the petrol you could buy with 6 grand.....:p

Seriously though, go and drive a D1 Tdi and then a D2 Td5.....I find the Td5 a fair way ahead of the Tdi in terms of refinement and grunt.

Having said that many are "scared" off by the foilbles found in the td5...much of this depends on how much "spanner work" you intend to do yourself.

Don't forget to leave a few grand in your budget. No matter what you buy, something will be due for repair....this is not something to be scared off but should be factored into the deal....it may give you some leverage on the price.

If you go for a tdi make sure there are records of a timing belt change.....if it hasn't been done, get it done straight away. Budget for this too.

Get someone who knows land rovers to inspect whatever you choose.....the money spent here may save you thousands.

Some of the oldest Tdi's are now over 20 yo. Get familiar with the two types of Disco 1's .....you can tell by the older interior. The later ones started appearing in 1994.

Many prefer the earlier diesel (200Tdi...pre 1994/5) but parts may start to become an issue in future.

good call on the V8. lots of them around to choose from. and the cost of rego is only one consideration.

As far as TDi 200 parts are concerned, try finding a head for one :(. I have not towed anything in a TDi200, but would hazzard a guess that it would not be a neck snapping experience :D.

MMMM did I mention the V8 noise :p MMMM

[isuzurover]

...

I'll sell you my petrol V8 for $4K ....think of all the petrol you could buy with 6 grand.....:p

....

Is that a V8 D2??? You can easily get a late model Tdi D1 for $4k.
Btw - in QLD, the rego costs will rapidly eat up any saving of buying a petrol...

[Sleepy]

Is that a V8 D2??? You can easily get a late model Tdi D1 for $4k.


Yeah, I know the drill!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I've got some Jousting sticks to sweeten the deal????

[Lionelgee]

Is that a V8 D2??? You can easily get a late model Tdi D1 for $4k.
Btw - in QLD, the rego costs will rapidly eat up any saving of buying a petrol...


Isuzurover,

You are right - the current cost of rego for a V8 in Queensland is close to one thousand dollars a year. $800+ per year for a 6 cylinder!

For an 8 cylinder
Registration fee 620.95
Traffic improvement fee 48.85
CTP insurance premium 328.80
Total fee ($) 998.60


For a 6 Cylinder
Registration fee 443.45
Traffic improvement fee 48.85
CTP insurance premium 328.80

Total fee ($) 821.10


Kind Regards
Lionel

[isuzurover]

Isuzurover,

You are right - the current cost of rego for a V8 in Queensland is close to one thousand dollars a year. $800+ per year for a 6 cylinder!

For an 8 cylinder
Registration fee 620.95
Traffic improvement fee 48.85
CTP insurance premium 328.80
Total fee ($) 998.60


For a 6 Cylinder
Registration fee 443.45
Traffic improvement fee 48.85
CTP insurance premium 328.80

Total fee ($) 821.10


Kind Regards
Lionel

Yes - I am glad I moved to WA where they have a more sensible system based on GVM.

A consideration for you is that you will pay 4cyl rego for a Tdi but 6cyl rego for a TD5. Plus Tdis are slightly more economical. I get just over 8L/100 km in mine.
Conversely, a Td5 will probably last longer before a rebuild, as it is a stronger engine with better oil filtration.

[Blknight.aus]

Yeah, I know the drill!

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vb-vk-holden-commodore-1978-1985/127062d1318239844-nice-original-vk-tell-him-hes-dreamin.jpg

I've got some Jousting sticks to sweeten the deal????

I dissagree, I've bought 2 disco1 tdis for under $4k and arranged the purchase of one or 2 more for that mark.

[bigcarle]

i only have had a '95 300TDi manual (my first land rover)
if you get ANY of the diesels fit an engine monitor IMMEDIATELY and WITHOUT DELAY.
why do emphasize this, look up all the threads on here that have over heating issues and with an engine monitor how many of them could have saved the owners $1000's of dollars and heartache.
next for the 300TDi at least, timing belt, when was it last changed if unknown change it NOW.
in a Disco 1 update (late 1994- 1998) look for the clear overflow bottle for the radiator, brass plugs in the top of the radiator and the thermostat housing. If these are not installed, install ASAP as these tend to fail and drop the water instantly and before you know it you are out of water and have cooked the head in less time than it takes to tell it (unless you have installed the engine monitor which beeps at a certain temperature to warn you)
also the 300TDi at 250k NEEDS a head gasket change at least.
300k there is some suggestion that the big end bearings MAY go

apart from that they return good fuel consumption 9.8l/100 (30mpg) around town and 8.6l/100 (32mpg) on the highway.
plenty of comfort and gadgets in side as well
i have had plenty of help and advice from this forum which is really great and a moral booster when you are working on the car
that's all i can think of for now, they are otherwise a great reliable vehicle

[Disco44]

$10k would mean either a 300Tdi D1 (a very good one with lots of money left over) or a TD5 D2.

I have a 1997 D1 300 Tdi manual. It has generally been reliable, and is certainly convenient, however if I were you I would go for a TD5 D2, however not the first couple of years of production.

D1 300tdi - things to watch for:
Rust around alpine windows
Head gaskets all fail at ~250k km
Check the ABS and SRS lights light up, many owners remove the globes rather than fix problems
The temp guage is binary - it instantly goes between OK and Buggered engine, with no warning. Install a VDO or similar.
The rear power windows have a fault in the circuit board which often stops them working (or makes them work intermittently).

Once the bugs are ironed out in the 300TDI they are a good economical all rounder.I have a 96 but if you can get a good 98 it has a few much needed improvements.The thing to worry about is the vehicle service record, good maintenance is a must plus a change to the better head gasket which is much more reliable.
John.

[bigcarle]

i forgot to mention in my previous post that the ABS can be a pain and expensive sometimes to fix as well as the security system (spyder) can cause problems.
but whatever problems come up they come up in most of them and hints and ideas to fix them are here on the forum :D

[Lionelgee]

i only have had a '95 300TDi manual (my first land rover)
if you get ANY of the diesels fit an engine monitor IMMEDIATELY and WITHOUT DELAY.
why do emphasize this, look up all the threads on here that have over heating issues and with an engine monitor how many of them could have saved the owners $1000's of dollars and heartache.
next for the 300TDi at least, timing belt, when was it last changed if unknown change it NOW.
in a Disco 1 update (late 1994- 1998) look for the clear overflow bottle for the radiator, brass plugs in the top of the radiator and the thermostat housing. If these are not installed, install ASAP as these tend to fail and drop the water instantly and before you know it you are out of water and have cooked the head in less time than it takes to tell it (unless you have installed the engine monitor which beeps at a certain temperature to warn you)
also the 300TDi at 250k NEEDS a head gasket change at least.
300k there is some suggestion that the big end bearings MAY go

apart from that they return good fuel consumption 9.8l/100 (30mpg) around town and 8.6l/100 (32mpg) on the highway.
plenty of comfort and gadgets in side as well
i have had plenty of help and advice from this forum which is really great and a moral booster when you are working on the car
that's all i can think of for now, they are otherwise a great reliable vehicle


G'day Bigcarle,

Thank you for all the insider tips about the 300 TDi I will bear this in mind once I start looking more seriously closer to September.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Yes - I am glad I moved to WA where they have a more sensible system based on GVM.

A consideration for you is that you will pay 4cyl rego for a Tdi but 6cyl rego for a TD5. Plus Tdis are slightly more economical. I get just over 8L/100 km in mine.
Conversely, a Td5 will probably last longer before a rebuild, as it is a stronger engine with better oil filtration.


G'day Isuzurover,

I would not mind paying that much rego for a V8 if I lived in Brisbane or Metro South East Queensland because the roads are in relatively good condition. However, because I live in Bundaberg I travel mostly in regional/rural Queensland and once anyone passes to the north of Cooroy the road turns into a mostly single two-way road which is jokingly named a National Highway.


Kind Regards
Lionel