P38A newbie

[IamKONG]

Hi all how are we,
Im looking at purchasing a P38A round the 2000-2002 mark
i have previously owned a 99 TD5 and i really enjoyed it
I am pretty novice to the Rangies how ever and while i am doing own reserch thought id ask the Pro's
Just curious on thoughts on the engine and what mods should i do straight up
Thanx for any input much appreciated :)

[PeterAllen]

Welcome Iamkong, I am sure you will get numerous ideas on your question.
Obviously go for a well serviced low km car as you can afford and there are many that have not been off the tarmac. I would go the 4.6 versus the 4 litre.
Things to do once you buy are a basic service and change out the oils and coolant. Important to know the cooling system is operating well.
If you intend to take it bush get some decent tyres and if you have the cash I would look at the rear diff air locker from Ashcroft. If the air suspension is a problem replace the standard bags for the Gen III and get some extended height on your suspension over stock. Paul from Hard Range should be able to give you all the knowledge about that and a lift kit if you want to go the whole hog.
IMO the cars are very capable stock standard and just depends on what you are after and how deep your pockets are.
Best of luck when you get your new ride. You will love it.

[IamKONG]

Thanx heaps for that!
Yeah the service history I know is a must these cars have to be takin care of
I have also have been leaning to getting the 4.6ltr which I think is a very decent engine from research I have been doing not saying the 4ltr is bad or anything but think prefer newer engine model
As for suspension I'm not there yet lol so thank you heaps for the heads up

[wayneg]

Are you going to be servicing and maintaining the car yourself, are you used to wielding a spanner. These cars are not hard to work on but if you need to pay someone else you will need deep pockets and be able to loose the car to a mechanic.
My no 1 tip is to make sure the cooling system is in top shape and then fit a low coolant alarm. This can be done for a few dollars and a couple of hours of your time.
2nd, get a Thor engine car, mid 1999 0n.

Where in Perth are you?

[Keithy P38]

Welcome mate!

To add to what's already been said, I would be making sure the EAS (air suspension) is in top order. If the bags are perished I'd be knocking $1000 off the price to get them replaced with Arnotts Gen III bags which are quite a lot thicker and stronger, with the added benefit of additional length so you get extra wheel travel as a bonus!

Paul's hard range P38 is up for sale at the moment. If I didn't have one already I'd be buying it!

[IamKONG]

Thanx for the tips wayneg n keithy will definitely take note
I'm out mandurah way wayneg
I will be trying to do a lot of the stuff myself but anything major I will leave to the pro's
I have read bit about the rear suspension so will definitely be looking into them more and what to look for when inspecting them
Thanx once again

[PeterH]

Welcome aboard!
I have a 2001 HSE 4.6 Rangie, and I love it to bits! It is the updated Thor version, which is highly regarded.
I would lean towards the 4.6, they are supposed to be the smoothest engine land rover have made, I'd have to agree.
Mine is pretty much stock and I have found it more than capable on and off road for what I do. If you don't mind keeping the maintenance up to it yourself, you can have a luxury ride for bargain dollars!
If you have not already had a look, go to rangerovers.net/ common issues and repairs, there is a wealth of information on there to help you out should you need advice on many repair details.
I would consider getting a faultmate code reader, I have the MSV-2 extreme version and have found it invluable when it comes to many problems that may arise.
Some info here if you are interested: Blackbox Solutions Ltd. -- Products Page (http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/products.html)
As others have already said, I would change all the fluids straight away, that way you know exactly where everything is at.
Have a look at the LCD display under the radio, if a little book symbol is there, (known as the cheque book symbol), that will indicate a blend motor or other heating/cooling issue. Those problems are fixable yourself, very well documented here, also a good bargaining point to save you something off the purchase price.
Also a rave CD workshop manual is a must, have a look on ebay.
Hope that helps!

[PeterAllen]

The other things you should look at getting is a EAS bypass kit and a EAS cable if you wish to play around with the EAS. ( available from Hardrange)and if you haven't already, start building your tool box inventory. Best tool I ever got was a long breaker bar for my socket set. Only $60 at Bursons. and worth every cent.

[mtb_gary]

IamKONG, I've got a 1996 model HSE (GEMS 4.6). Without trying to jinx myself, I've never had any problem at all with the motor. I do all the sevicing myself (I am not a mechanic) but the on line resources in conjunction with the RAVE manual and some decent tools, anything is possible. I do not use the Rangie as a daily drive, although various family members and friends have used it on a regular basis whilst their cars have been off the road being repaired or just visiting from interstate.
They are an amazing vehicle off road as well as on road. I use mine primarily for towing a couple of tonnes of boat as well as some fun off road. I think it would be fair to say that the first time you plan to head off road with some mates with the Toyotas and Nissans you will cop some flack for driving a "Toorak Tractor" or "soft roader". By the end of the trip after you have snatched them out of areas you have just driven through without a problem and not had your fillings get shaken out of your teeth, their comments change somewhat. Any ensuing trips and there will be a very different attitude. :D
I also support what has been mentioned earlier about the Gen111's as well as change the fluids as well as a Faultmate (or equivalent) to help with the diagnostics and clear any errors.
Good luck with the searching.
Gary

[redandy3575]

If you all don't mind me adding my bit in regards to servicing.:p

I too do my own repairs and service if I need too, but still insist on taking my vehicle to a Land Rover specialist for it's 10,000km service. The reason I do this is that a specialist mechanic can run a second eye over your vehicle and find any problems that you may not pick up yourself. I.e I had no idea that 1 of the 2 engine mounts were broken, now i would have never of pick that up, but pointed it out while the car was up on the hoist and sure enough, it was knackered.

Most independent specialist don't charge you too much, not like the dealers do. And you get a more personalised service.

[PaulP38a]

Good point RedAndy3575. I also do most servicing on my two P38's myself, but still get a workshop to look over them at least once a year to see what I have missed.

I had a 1995 4.6 HSE (GEMS) and I maintain that my 1999 4.0 (Thor/Motronic) has as much grunt. My/wifey's 2000 4.6 HSE (Thor/Motronic) is better again, although it is highway-biased and mine is bush-biased.

For diagnostics, I have both a FaultMate MSV-2 and a Nanocom Evo 2. If I was starting again, I would just get the Nanocom. Will cost you around $500 from blackbox-solutions.com

For the air springs, it is a personal choice but I like the Arnott Gen III air springs. Will cost you around $1000 for a set of four from arnottindustries.com

Other EAS stuff has been covered. No harm in doing the o-rings in the valve block and piston seal on the compressor every year or two... they are just another maintenance item.

Cheers, Paul.