Servicing Requirements new D4

[JayBee75]

Hi All,

Happy new year!And all the best for 2013 with your LR's.:)

Just wanted to ask is there meant to be a 1500km, or 2k first service? Or is it 10k as per the service booklet?I cannot find anything in the service schedule and ULR never went through the servicing requirements with me. The D4 has done 2200ks and I want to make sure it's serviced in line with recommendations.

MLR will be doing the servicing and it's on corperate servicing.

Thanks
JB

[rufusking]

There's just the 6 month / 10k health check. No fluid changes just plug it in and make sure everything is running as it should.

[JamesH]

Keep an eye on the oil level. Mine has used a notch or two in the first 3000.

[sniegy]

Hey JB,

No 1600/2000K service as older vehicles required

Just check your oil level as on the fuel lid suggests as running in can use some oil.

Servicing is (if 12MY) 13K or 6 Months (whichever occurs first) then 26K or 12 Months etc etc..
If it is a 13MY then yearly servicing only. 26K or 12 Months whichever occurs first.

Cheers & enjoy the new vehicle.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Family Traveller]

Is there any requirement to run the engines in prior to towing?

Cheers Scott

[Celtoid]

Is there any requirement to run the engines in prior to towing?

Cheers Scott

I don't know if it would badly affect the car not to but I can recall my D4 took 10K+ to start driving it's best.....

Everything ran smoother and quieter and brakes seemed more effective. So it would possibly give you a greater level of comfort on the braking front and definately better fuel economy.

Cheers,

Kev.

[trebor]

Hi JB

I'm one from the old school. Can't come to terms with a first oil change at 12,000ks. Had mine and filter changed in the D4 at 4,000ks. Clean oil is good insurance in my book.

Nick

D4 MY12 TDV6 2.7
2001 4.0 P38. (2009-2012)
2000 4.6 HSE P38. (2002-2006)

[Family Traveller]

I'm the same, I'll probably get it changed after the first few thousand and take it steady for the first 1,000 ks.
When I got the bike new I dropped the oil and filter at the 1,000 ks (It's in Honda servicing to do so anyway) and did a long trip up and down some hilly country in low revs at different speeds.
Apparently the rings are already beaded in, is this true?

[TerryO]

Seriously to me anyway, only being required to change oil every 26,000 kilometres is just plain wrong and bad for your vehicles engine no matter what environmental requirements are in Europe for new cars and or LR say on this point. To me it's just a sales gimmick of the worst kind.

Where is the written guaranteed proof that modern oils last this long without causing extra wear and tear on the engines, especially in the long run once the warranty has run out and the car has some decent kilometres up on it?

And when the same oils are sold in 5 litre containers at Repco or where ever if these oils last so long why isn't there big brand based advertising signs saying 'buy engine oil brand xxx it will only need changing in your vehicle every 26,000 kilometres or one year'.

I reckon car company's now work on the basis that nearly all new car 's sold will be traded in or on sold around the end of the warranty period so they will on very few occasions ever have to deal with engine life issues caused by old engine oil.

I'd be very happy if someone can prove me wrong.

cheers,
Terry

[JayBee75]

Thanks Guys, yes I also struggle with that fact of longer service intervals. My Ktm I use premium synthetic oils and change every 500k's, yes it works hard, but the oil is also shot by then, same with my GS 800 regular oil changes.

mine is a HSE MY 12, so Pete will be coming over to you at MLR for servicing, dont trust your sister company.
BTW what's just an oil change cost say if I came in at 5k?

I have seen a snapshot of the screen showing the oil level inside the car how do I get this up on the screen? Also what is the best oil to use for the 3.0L? Apparently there is no dipstick? (I have not looked yet only just ready the post) so obviously want to check with the driving I have been doing.

Car is running beatifully, however fuel consumption is a bit high, however I have no doubt this will come down as the k's increase. Have run the car in carefully so far no over revving etc, and a large variance of driving. Did my first Tow on the weekend with a Tonne of firewood out of Tanjil Bren and I would not have known I was towing, incredible. Funny thing was on the hwy back, I got the same fuel consumption with a full trailer (1 tonne) as I did on the way up with an empty one.....;)

JB

[Family Traveller]

Hi all

What diesel are you running Jaybee?
I've been running Vortex Diesel in my wife's A4 but after reading a test conducted by 4wd Action I'm not sure I want to :

More Bang for Your Buck | Australian 4WD Action (http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/more-bang-your-buck?page=2)

I now have an EGR light on the dash of the A4.
I pulled the EGR off and cleaned it out as it was pretty dirty but the light is still on. Mind you it was off after I cleaned it but came back on after a long drive. (Pucka to Mt Hotham)

I wanted to run Vortex in the new D4 but I don't want EGR or DPF problems down the track. Not knowing if the EGR was just faulty or if the higher temps created by the Vortex contributed to it's failure.

What are people's thoughts on this.


Cheers Scott

[JayBee75]

Hi all

What diesel are you running Jaybee?
I've been running Vortex Diesel in my wife's A4 but after reading a test conducted by 4wd Action I'm not sure I want to :

More Bang for Your Buck | Australian 4WD Action (http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/more-bang-your-buck?page=2)

I now have an EGR light on the dash of the A4.
I pulled the EGR off and cleaned it out as it was pretty dirty but the light is still on. Mind you it was off after I cleaned it but came back on after a long drive. (Pucka to Mt Hotham)

I wanted to run Vortex in the new D4 but I don't want EGR or DPF problems down the track. Not knowing if the EGR was just faulty or if the higher temps created by the Vortex contributed to it's failure.

What are people's thoughts on this.


Cheers Scott


Hi Scott,
Only run BP diesel, or Shell if I have to. Don't fill up anyware else as I have heard horror stories. Always fill up in the city before a long trip.

Are any D4 MY 11/12 owners having EGR issues?

Cheers
JB

[JamesH]

I read on here that Caltex Vortex is really good. There is a local Caltex I was planning on using based on that advice.

It was interesting to read above that brakes improve with age. At 3000k my brakes are okay but I was expecting to be more impressed. With 19" wheels needed for the big calipers it had me wondering what the brakes are like on the 2.7 models.

[Tombie]

Don't baby the engine... Work it...

The harder its worked the better it will become...

You will often find demo vehicles are bedded in better than most...

[Family Traveller]

Sounds like some hills are in order, Mt Hotham here I come.

[Celtoid]

I read on here that Caltex Vortex is really good. There is a local Caltex I was planning on using based on that advice.

It was interesting to read above that brakes improve with age. At 3000k my brakes are okay but I was expecting to be more impressed. With 19" wheels needed for the big calipers it had me wondering what the brakes are like on the 2.7 models.

I guess it's all relative to what you are used to I suppose....

When I first bought my SE D4 I had a 307 PUG and a newish Berlina.....I was amazed how well the D4 pulled up.

Just about everything I've read review wise on the 3.0l, comments on how good the brakes are....even from the LR haters :wasntme:

If your concerned, LR can do a brake efficiency test....better safe than sorry.

Cheers,

Kev.

[Ferret]

At 3000k my brakes are okay but I was expecting to be more impressed.

I gather you have never driven / used the brakes on a D2 then. :p

I have to say after going from a D2 to a D4 (3.0l) I have been greatly impressed, brake wise.

[Plane Fixer]

For me coming from a GUII 3.0l Patrol on which I replaced the brakes with slotted rotors which gave a 50% improvement, to the D4 3.0l it is night and day. The D4 brakes are very powerful and stop the 2.7 ton car exceptionally well.

[mowog]

Is there any requirement to run the engines in prior to towing?

Cheers Scott

There is a section in the owners manual on this. I believe you shouldn't tow in the first 3000klm.

[JayBee75]

mine is a HSE MY 12, so Pete will be coming over to you at MLR for servicing, dont trust your sister company.
BTW what's just an oil change cost say if I came in at 5k?

I have seen a snapshot of the screen showing the oil level inside the car how do I get this up on the screen? Also what is the best oil to use for the 3.0L? Apparently there is no dipstick? (I have not looked yet only just ready the post) so obviously want to check with the driving I have been doing.

JB

Sorry guys just to ask the question again on the above, thanks.

[JamesH]

Sorry guys just to ask the question again on the above, thanks.
Hi Jaybee. Arc up the ignition without turning over the engine (ie hit start with foot off the brake pedal). The message centre spends some time telling you that it won't start unless you put your foot on the brake. You tell it that you know that but you just want to check some stuff. Then you hit any button menu control doovey on the RHS of the steering wheel. Then scroll down to Service Menu and select it by hitting OK button. You will then see another shorter menu at the bottom of which is check oil level. Scroll down and hit OK. The Oil Level gauge will pop up.

You cannot do this within ten minutes of swtiching off but never mind you don't do it unless the car has been off for hours to give the oil a chance to drip down (ie before you start first thing in the morning).

If you are like me you will see it is two notches down from full and you will wonder if it was two notches down from the start or whether it was full and is using oil at a rapid rate. We'll never know but the second time I checked mine after about another 1000k I was concerned to see it 3 notches down from full. Good news is that a further 1000k has seen no real decline, still three notches, but I'm going to check this regularly - it could be a top up is required before the 13000k health check. For this reason I too am interested in the answers to your other questions. On the other hand I am not sure I have the guts to add oil in case I over fill it. Ive read 100ml a notch but I've also read more. I think 100ml is the lowest figure. I'm going to wait until it is at least a notch below the halfway point and then, if I find the courage, I'll add an insufficient amount to take it to full.

[sniegy]

Hi JB,

Sorry mate on Holidays & don't have full coverage/time to answer. ;-)
The cost is approx....
1 hr labour approx. $170
Oil 8 Litres (7.8). $200
Oil Filter. $40 from memory
Total. Approx. $410.00
I have rounded things up as the labour rate is under that & so is the oil per litre & cant remember the exact price of a filter.
But gives an idea of what you asked for.

Cheers mate.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[roamer]

Hi Jaybee. Arc up the ignition without turning over the engine (ie hit start with foot off the brake pedal). The message centre spends some time telling you that it won't start unless you put your foot on the brake. You tell it that you know that but you just want to check some stuff. Then you hit any button menu control doovey on the RHS of the steering wheel. Then scroll down to Service Menu and select it by hitting OK button. You will then see another shorter menu at the bottom of which is check oil level. Scroll down and hit OK. The Oil Level gauge will pop up.

You cannot do this within ten minutes of swtiching off but never mind you don't do it unless the car has been off for hours to give the oil a chance to drip down (ie before you start first thing in the morning).

If you are like me you will see it is two notches down from full and you will wonder if it was two notches down from the start or whether it was full and is using oil at a rapid rate. We'll never know but the second time I checked mine after about another 1000k I was concerned to see it 3 notches down from full. Good news is that a further 1000k has seen no real decline, still three notches, but I'm going to check this regularly - it could be a top up is required before the 13000k health check. For this reason I too am interested in the answers to your other questions. On the other hand I am not sure I have the guts to add oil in case I over fill it. Ive read 100ml a notch but I've also read more. I think 100ml is the lowest figure. I'm going to wait until it is at least a notch below the halfway point and then, if I find the courage, I'll add an insufficient amount to take it to full.



James I think I remember manual saying some where that if/when it needs oil the screen will tell you how much to put in , fill with ignition ON,


Cheers Ken

[JamesH]

Thanks Ken.

That is re-assuring if I was in the metro area but if the message came up a long way from a service centre (eg on a remote or rural trip) then I would need to be holding a litre or two of oil. Also if you are about to head off on a long run away from service centres and you can see the level is a bit off full, you might wish to do a pre-emptive top up. From what I can gather it is not readily available in "domestic" quantities, but I may be wrong about that.

[Goaroving]

If you take your own container to the dealer they will sell you the oil you need. That's what I did on my recent trip to Central Oz. Didn't need to use it though.

[Family Traveller]

I think I would prefer to have it full all the time.
The less oil you have the more work the oil that's inside the engine has to work.
I know 100 or so mls wont make a great deal of difference but anything over half a litre I would top up.
I'm glad I service my wife's A4, under $100 for oil and filter and it's done.
Looking at purchasing VCDS and I can read all the faults and service everything else.

[JayBee75]

If you take your own container to the dealer they will sell you the oil you need. That's what I did on my recent trip to Central Oz. Didn't need to use it though.



So what is the brand of oil that we need to use? Can it be bought at retail? Alos does anyone know the part number for the filter? Is it a mongrel to get to I suppose is the big question!

I would prefer to use the oil my dealer does.

Pete thanks for the heads up, But I think that it will be cheaper for me to get off my backside and do it my self at 5k. See you for first scheduled service!

[Family Traveller]

Does it void the warranty if you do your own services between scheduled services?

Cheers Scott

[BMKal]

Mine's a 2.7 V6 but I carry a 5 litre and a 1 litre bottle of oil in the back at all times (probably 80% of my travelling is outside of metro areas).

So far, I've only needed to "top up" about a litre once. Not long after it was new, I opened the bonnet to discover that I'd sprung an oil leak - from the spray pattern on the front of the engine and under the bonnet - I suspect the front seal "weeping". I topped up the oil level and de-greased the engine bay, and have never lost a drop since. Also got the dealer to check it out when it went in for it's 10K health check, and they could find nothing wrong.

Must admit - I'm a lot happier having a dip-stick in mine.

I used to run the Td5 D2 20,000km between oil and filter changes. Always replaced the spin filter element at 10,000 k's, but the main cartridge and oil at 20,000 using only the recommended Mobil synthetic oil (purchased in 20 litre drum from Westrac in Kalgoorlie - much cheaper than Repco or dealers and Cat uses the same oil). Never had an issue with that and it's still going strong (young bloke now has it). I always did my own servicing on the D2 - will probably get the dealers to do the D4 though.

As for fuel - always BP or Shell for me. Caltex only occasionally if I can't find a BP or Shell when I need fuel There's a Caltex close to me in East Perth and I might occasionally fuel up there in the evening if I want to make an early start in the morning and not have to stop for fuel. The other brands - never go near them. About to have a rear wheel carrier and long range tank fitted by Lifestyle 4WD in Perth, so the use of anything other than BP or Shell will become a non-issue for me shortly.

[Scouse]

Does it void the warranty if you do your own services between scheduled services?

Cheers ScottNo, you can even do your own servicing if you wish.

[Graeme]

I thought to not void warranty the work had to be done by a licenced mechanic.

[JayBee75]

Hi Jaybee. Arc up the ignition without turning over the engine (ie hit start with foot off the brake pedal). The message centre spends some time telling you that it won't start unless you put your foot on the brake. You tell it that you know that but you just want to check some stuff. Then you hit any button menu control doovey on the RHS of the steering wheel. Then scroll down to Service Menu and select it by hitting OK button. You will then see another shorter menu at the bottom of which is check oil level. Scroll down and hit OK. The Oil Level gauge will pop up.

You cannot do this within ten minutes of swtiching off but never mind you don't do it unless the car has been off for hours to give the oil a chance to drip down (ie before you start first thing in the morning).

If you are like me you will see it is two notches down from full and you will wonder if it was two notches down from the start or whether it was full and is using oil at a rapid rate. We'll never know but the second time I checked mine after about another 1000k I was concerned to see it 3 notches down from full. Good news is that a further 1000k has seen no real decline, still three notches, but I'm going to check this regularly - it could be a top up is required before the 13000k health check. For this reason I too am interested in the answers to your other questions. On the other hand I am not sure I have the guts to add oil in case I over fill it. Ive read 100ml a notch but I've also read more. I think 100ml is the lowest figure. I'm going to wait until it is at least a notch below the halfway point and then, if I find the courage, I'll add an insufficient amount to take it to full.


Thanks James, checked tonight and she's full. Interesting to note it won't register just after you turn the car off, you have to wait until the car has been sat for some time. When i first tried it showed the gauge however said "Not available"

Cheers

[JayBee75]

So what is the brand of oil that we need to use? Can it be bought at retail? Alos does anyone know the part number for the filter? Is it a mongrel to get to I suppose is the big question!



Can someone confirm this is the oil?

3.0 Litre Diesel 2009/12 Castrol Magnatec Professional C1 5-30

Thanks

[Family Traveller]

I can't confirm the Castrol but I've been a Penrite guy for the past 12 years and I'll be running Penrite Enviro C-4 in the D4 after the warranty expires (and before if I'm able.)
I run the Penrite Enviro (not C-4) in the wife's A4. It is a low ash oil suited to diesels with DPF and EGR.
I've ran Penrite's HPR type oil in all my Petrol cars, like I said for the past 12 years and I rate it highly.

[Goaroving]

Can someone confirm this is the oil?

3.0 Litre Diesel 2009/12 Castrol Magnatec Professional C1 5-30

Thanks

Just spoke with Ritters in Melbourne. They use Castrol but tell me that Castrol have just changed the classifications again. The oil they use for the D4 is now EDGE PRO PFC1 which looks similar to the one you quote. They also said that it meets all the Land Rover specifications but not all dealers use the same brand of oil and that it was best to stick with the brand used since new. Their words not mine so I guess I'll be contacting the original dealer mine came from to see what brand they use.

Hope this helps.

[Ruby2]

I don't go to the local dealer...mainly from bad experiences...only reason my D4 goes there is if it needs something fixed under warranty. Had to have the motor for the rear wiper replaced as it was sticking...
Mine was a demo.....didn't run it in...in fact bought it with 1200kms on the clock, drove it straight back to SA....
Towed when it had done about 3,500kms...now it's done 11,500 since May.

Husband is a mechanic and he services the car for me...thankfully. I know he will check everything and replace anything needed. If he can build a racing Mustang from the ground up he can manage a D4 I think ;-)
As far as warranty goes it's my understanding that as long as the right oil and parts are used then the warranty is not voided. It's surprising the margin that dealers put on their services....sorry to those who work in a dealer...but come on the price I was quoted was ludicrous when I asked them to break it all down.
My car gets serviced more regularly when I tow and because we think that keeping the oil cleaner for a turbo engine is just sensible.
So it got the initial service when we got back from Melbourne...car also got wheel alignment as that was out from delivery :-( Then it's had another 10,000km later. I am happy to keep going to my mechanic.....

[JayBee75]

Hi Guys,

D4 is booked in at MLR for it's 10k service however they advise they are not chaging the oil. I know the oil needs topping up does anyone know if they will at least do this for the service?

Also thinking to drop the oil myself, still struggling to confirm what oil I should be using. Any help as I want to use the oil the dealer would use/recommend.

3.0l HSE

Thanks
JB

[tup39]

Hi Guys,

D4 is booked in at MLR for it's 10k service however they advise they are not chaging the oil. I know the oil needs topping up does anyone know if they will at least do this for the service?

Also thinking to drop the oil myself, still struggling to confirm what oil I should be using. Any help as I want to use the oil the dealer would use/recommend.

3.0l HSE

Thanks
JB
Just had my D4 first service done 12000km and they changed the oil said I had choice to do it or not so i chose to do it.

[Plane Fixer]

Simply ask for the oil to be changed.
I did that for mine as I was happier for the first oil change on a new car to be done early. The next ones after that I am more relaxed about the mileage as I normally do long runs.

[discotwinturbo]

Definitely drop the oil. I had mine dropped at 5000.

If you examined it I would suggest there would be little bits of metal in the oil, from the bedding in of the engine parts.

I know they probably have magnetic sump plugs....but if you are keeping her long term it's best to be sure.

Brett.....

[JayBee75]

Definitely drop the oil. I had mine dropped at 5000.

If you examined it I would suggest there would be little bits of metal in the oil, from the bedding in of the engine parts.

I know they probably have magnetic sump plugs....but if you are keeping her long term it's best to be sure.

Brett.....

Thanks guys, my thoughts exactly. I am however thinking of doing it myself as I have been told an oil change will be $400? Car is on corperate servicing so I am sure that and oil change outside of schedule is not covered?

BTW the oil required is Castrol SLX Professional C1 5W-30

Cheers

[discotwinturbo]

Thanks guys, my thoughts exactly. I am however thinking of doing it myself as I have been told an oil change will be $400? Car is on corperate servicing so I am sure that and oil change outside of schedule is not covered?

BTW the oil required is Castrol SLX Professional C1 5W-30

Cheers

I think they use a vacuum to remove the oil ? My previous service guy does not have the equipment to change the oil, so I only go to LR or an Indy LR guy.

Brett....

[JayBee75]

I think they use a vacuum to remove the oil ? My previous service guy does not have the equipment to change the oil, so I only go to LR or an Indy LR guy.

Brett....


I have had a look on the web for a D4 workshop manual to no avail, surely a standard oil change is possible?

can anyone give me some pricing they have paid to have to oil changed by LR? $400 seems very steep.

[SBD4]

I have had a look on the web for a D4 workshop manual to no avail, surely a standard oil change is possible?

can anyone give me some pricing they have paid to have to oil changed by LR? $400 seems very steep.

My 13.5k km service was $231.00 including $195 labour. I opted to have the oil changed. This was done about Apr 2011 so prices may have increased.

There is some discussion on servicing costs here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1603204-post33.html

Also, I bought this. Cheap so I wasn't too bothered if it wasn't up to scratch - not too bad for the price:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-4-IV-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-2009-2012-/160988489154'ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160

[SBD4]

I think they use a vacuum to remove the oil ? My previous service guy does not have the equipment to change the oil, so I only go to LR or an Indy LR guy.

Brett....

Hey Brett, you can drain the oil.

[101RRS]

Thanks guys, my thoughts exactly. I am however thinking of doing it myself as I have been told an oil change will be $400?
Cheers

That is ridiculous - oil is about $130 and half an hour labour - say $75 so the cost should be just over $200 if done by the dealer when also doing other work.

Garry

[scarry]

Cost me around $360 for the stealers to change oil and filter on mine.Only got them to do it as it was there for some other work.

First full service including oil and filter at MR auto (LR indy) was $380.

[JayBee75]

Is this correct? Have not had a chance to get under the car to look..

"For example, the LR4 doesn't utilize a classic oil plug in the bottom of the oil pan as do most every car and truck. The only way to change the oil in an LR4 is to have a Land Rover Dealership use a special device to "vacuum" the oil out of the engine. This means that if you follow the 3k-5k mileage timeline for oil changes, and plan on driving the car to 100k miles, plan on a minimum of 20 visits to the dealer, not including additional maintianence necessary".

Can a "Normal" oil drop be completed? I am hearing mixed feedback.

Still waiting for dealer to come back with price on oil change when my car is in for 10k service on the 2nd Aug.

[SBD4]

Is this correct? Have not had a chance to get under the car to look..

"For example, the LR4 doesn't utilize a classic oil plug in the bottom of the oil pan as do most every car and truck. The only way to change the oil in an LR4 is to have a Land Rover Dealership use a special device to "vacuum" the oil out of the engine. This means that if you follow the 3k-5k mileage timeline for oil changes, and plan on driving the car to 100k miles, plan on a minimum of 20 visits to the dealer, not including additional maintianence necessary".

Can a "Normal" oil drop be completed? I am hearing mixed feedback.

Still waiting for dealer to come back with price on oil change when my car is in for 10k service on the 2nd Aug.

Hopefully this will help to clarify things:

[Ferret]

From dealers invoice last service about 3 weeks ago, oil change costs

Plug - oil drain $11.26
Filter - oil $34.83
Oil - Mag Prof (C3) 5W/40 $82.15
Enviro Levy - $9.5

Total parts ~$138. The labour component of the oil change itself unknown but assume 30 mins @ $120 / hour gives total ~$200.

I'm being charged for a sump plug so I assume they are dropping the oil in a conventional manner. If not then I'd be interested why a charge is incurred for a plug.

[SBD4]

OK, so a bit more reading reveals that there are two procedures, the traditional method and the vacuum method. I have attached both procedures in full:

Brett, you were right although you can still do it the traditional way.

[JayBee75]

Hopefully this will help to clarify things:

Thanks Sean,

Interesting on the sump plug, does it have to be changed? From the pics I am trying to ascertain what side of the car/engine the plug is, seems LHSopposite the wheel?

Cheers

[Graeme]

The drain plug is low in the right side, accessed by removing the sump guard.

Edit: Thanks SBD4 for the pdf links because I now know how to read the oil level at any time, not just when temperature and time since running conditions are satisfied.

Edit2: It doesn't work on mine!

[JayBee75]

So can the plug be reused or a new one has to be supplied? Surely if it's made from steel its ok to reuse......

If I go ahead with the oil change in the next couple of weeks, I'll let yhou know the conditiona and outcome of the oil at 10,000k's on the 3.0L

Cheers

[SBD4]

So can the plug be reused or a new one has to be supplied? Surely if it's made from steel its ok to reuse......

If I go ahead with the oil change in the next couple of weeks, I'll let yhou know the conditiona and outcome of the oil at 10,000k's on the 3.0L

Cheers

Mate, they say discard the old and install a new one (torque to 23Nm). It has an embedded rubber seal. I guess if it is reused it may not reseal properly or fail later. For the sake of a few bucks I would be doing it as recommended.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/662.jpg

[discotwinturbo]

From dealers invoice last service about 3 weeks ago, oil change costs

Plug - oil drain $11.26
Filter - oil $34.83
Oil - Mag Prof (C3) 5W/40 $82.15
Enviro Levy - $9.5

Total parts ~$138. The labour component of the oil change itself unknown but assume 30 mins @ $120 / hour gives total ~$200.

I'm being charged for a sump plug so I assume they are dropping the oil in a conventional manner. If not then I'd be interested why a charge is incurred for a plug.

Peter.....was that meant to say 5W/30 ?

Brett.....

[Graeme]

I re-used the drain plug because there was plenty of spring left in the O-ring and it doesn't have to hold much pressure. I should have measured the O-ring so I could get and fit a new one next time.

[Ferret]

Peter.....was that meant to say 5W/30 ?

The invoice says 5W/40. Why do you ask?

[discotwinturbo]

The invoice says 5W/40. Why do you ask?

My last invoice shows 5W/30.....I actually thought it was supposed to be 5W/30. I thought 40 was a little thick for modern engines.

My VW is 5W/30 too.

Others may know ?

Brett....

[jonesy63]

Seriously guys, have you ever opened the bonnet - and looked at the filler cap?

[SBD4]

My last invoice shows 5W/30.....I actually thought it was supposed to be 5W/30. I thought 40 was a little thick for modern engines.

My VW is 5W/30 too.

Others may know ?

Brett....

You are right Brett.

[Ferret]

My last invoice shows 5W/30.....I actually thought it was supposed to be 5W/30. I thought 40 was a little thick for modern engines.

Hmmmm. A visit to the dealer might be on the cards.

[discotwinturbo]

Hmmmm. A visit to the dealer might be on the cards.

They may just say it was a typo....but best they prove that by showing you the drum that they get their oil from.

Brett....

[discotwinturbo]

Seriously guys, have you ever opened the bonnet - and looked at the filler cap?

I can't find the lever to open the bonnet ;-)

Brett.....

[JayBee75]

Thought I would drop this comment in from another topic, as its more relevant here.

"Interesting to note my 3.0L D4 is in for it's 10k service this Friday, however they have told me they do not change the oil until 26k for the first time

I was looking at either doing the oil change myself or paying them to do it, however I log onto topix and it tell's me Outstanding campaigns
-F206 - 13k oil service
- F158 - renew brake fluid

So where do I go from here, dealer tells me I have to pay if I want the oil changed before 26k (corperate servicing) yet Topix telss me 13k oil change and 26k service......
Spoke to LR and they said they cannot provide technical recommendations, and to talk to the dealer. They did um and ahh when i posed the F206 13k oil service. Also noted that when I told them it was corperate servicing they said 26k, maybe a cost saving initiative rather than anything........

[Disco4_tech]

You can definatly drop the oil from the sump, however it's much cleaner and easier to do it via vacuum from the sucker pipe in the engine bay.

The sump plug is precisely fitted that if you drop it then the oil will hit part of the sub frame and go everywhere.

[JayBee75]

Update, got the 10k service done with the guys at MLR, all good.

Ended up changing the oil and filter $200, thought that was more than reasonable as the oil's approx $100. The oil level is sitting at 3/4 fill with one more notch to go, do i top it up?

New brake switch, turbo oil hose and clamp which was leaking, greased the sqeeky gear lever, wheel alignment.

Interesting to note though I had 3 left over screws when I initially took delivery of the car which I found under the bonnet laying around, no one knows where they go.....

Overall still wrapped with the car, love it!

[JayBee75]

Hi guys,
Have been trying to buy over the counter Castrol SLX Professional C1 5W-30 for the D4 for top up, however no one seems to have the right castrol.nguys at autobahn were helpful and looked on the castrol system, listed for the D4 it had refer to dealer? They are saying they do not have he right oil. There is two 5w 30 's in the magnatec and the edge however apparently they are not suitable for the 3.0l d4.

Anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

[Graeme]

I bought a 20L drum of SLX Professional C1 5W30 (Castrol product code 3375617) a while ago. Next time I will get Magnatec Professional A5(/B5) 5W30 because mine doesn't have a DPF so doesn't need C1 and B5 is supposed to have better lubrication properties than the C1. LR states that B1 is OK for non-DPF 3.0s and B5 is B1 but better.

[JayBee75]

Graeme,

neither of the oils inparticular state that they are for deisel engines? Information only refers to petrol...... The magnatec also talks about fuel saving. Just don't want to get this one wrong!

Cheers

[Tombie]

Interesting timing! Just got off the phone to Castrol Tech.

2.7L - Castrol Magnetec Professional A5 5W-30 part#3369740 -20l drum

3.0L - With DPF - Castrol Edge Professional C1 5W-30 part#3375617 -20l drum


Now the interesting bit: (Direct from Tech Guy) If you only need a bit of oil...

Ford Genuine Oil - Suit Ford TDV6 Territory - WSS-M2C-913B is available from Ford in 5l and 1l bottles suitable for TDV6 (2.7L)

Mazda Genuine Oil - In C1 spec - Is from Mazda spare parts in 5l and 1l bottles suitable for 3.0L with DPF

Both these oils are rebranded Castrol...

[JayBee75]

Interesting timing! Just got off the phone to Castrol Tech.

2.7L - Castrol Magnetec Professional A5 5W-30 part#3369740 -20l drum

3.0L - With DPF - Castrol Edge Professional C1 5W-30 part#3375617 -20l drum


Now the interesting bit: (Direct from Tech Guy) If you only need a bit of oil...

Ford Genuine Oil - Suit Ford TDV6 Territory - WSS-M2C-913B is available from Ford in 5l and 1l bottles suitable for TDV6 (2.7L)

Mazda Genuine Oil - In C1 spec - Is from Mazda spare parts in 5l and 1l bottles suitable for 3.0L with DPF

Both these oils are rebranded Castrol...



Thanks Tombie, Obvious question how do I tell if my 2012 D4 3.0L has a DPF?

[Tombie]

Topix or Ask dealer and quote VIN

[JayBee75]

Cannot see it listed on Topix, closest thing is EURO STAGE 4 EMISSIONS.

I think I may not have one beinga late 2012 car? Sept build, nov delivery.

[Graeme]

LR also list the Ford spec WSS-M2C-913B as suitable for non-DPF 3.0. The Magnatec A5 is the improved WSS-M2C-913C spec that Ford recommend be used where WSS-M2C-913B was previously recommended.

Edit: The Castrol technical data sheet shows Magnatec A5 as A5/B5 (A is for petrol engines and B is for diesel engines) and A5/B5 supercedes A1/B1 and LR state the oil must be B1 spec. Note that B2, B3 and B4 are not necessarily improvements on B1, rather they are a different set of attributes.

[JayBee75]

LR also list the Ford spec WSS-M2C-913B as suitable for non-DPF 3.0. The Magnatec A5 is the improved WSS-M2C-913C spec that Ford recommend be used where WSS-M2C-913B was previously recommended.

Edit: The Castrol technical data sheet shows Magnatec A5 as A5/B5 (A is for petrol engines and B is for diesel engines) and A5/B5 supercedes A1/B1 and LR state the oil must be B1 spec. Note that B2, B3 and B4 are not necessarily improvements on B1, rather they are a different set of attributes.


Thanks Graeme, I think I'm even more confused.:angel: Confusing part is all the 5W 30 oils are listed as petrol and do not reference diesels and all diesel oils are listed as 5W 40.

So the oil i need is Castrol magnatec 5W 30 A5/B5 which the spec is WSS-M2C-913B.

Question is where can i buy it as the standard retail guys do not stock?.........

Thanks

[Tombie]

You need a BP distributor.

List price: $245.84 (inc GST)

[Graeme]

Here's the Magnatec A5 5W30 technical data sheet, noting that it both refers to diesel engines and the B5 spec which is a diesel spec. Its also -913C, superceding -913B.70906

[phl]

Thanks Tombie, Obvious question how do I tell if my 2012 D4 3.0L has a DPF?

AFAIK, all D4 in Australia do not have DPF.

It's the letters in your VIN that tells you if you have a DPF and even the MY13 doesn't.

[SBD4]

AFAIK, all D4 in Australia do not have DPF.

It's the letters in your VIN that tells you if you have a DPF and even the MY13 doesn't.

Pete explains how to identify by VIN here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/150379-dpf.html#post1681008

[Graeme]

The first batch of 3.0 D4s to arrive late 2009 were fitted with a DPF. The DPF is located between the catalytic converter and the first muffler and has small hoses from the pipe before and after the DPF that go upwards to pressure sensors. The catalytic converter is very close to the engine and is obscured by the gearbox guard but the DPF when fitted is visible immediately below the front passenger floor, where normally there is just a pipe section and no hose connections.