Max Amps through 12S socket

[phl]

I'm looking a making up a 12S socket charging lead for my Ctek charger, as I gather battery drain in the D4 can be more than what normal short drives will replenish.

Does anyone know the max amps that can be fed through the 12S socket using the trailer power pins? I'm also thinking of changing my camping 120W solar setup to charge the batteries through that, which in an ideal world, will produce 10A current.

[~Rich~]

Some guys in the Uk are already doing this with no problems, do a search on the Disco3.uk.com site.

[jonesy63]

What model CTEK have you got?

[phl]

I have the MXS 5.0; I know that will work through the 12S, and in fact there is a Ctek to 12S adapter on DISCO4 site. The potential 10A from solar is the concern.

Will check DISCO4 for what others have done.

[~Rich~]

Here is a Wiki article on what to do:
Charging through towing socket - DISCO3.CO.UK Knowledge Base (http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/Charging_through_towing_socket)

[phl]

Also discovered, after wading through several treads, that the 12V live is fused at 15A, running 2.5mm wiring, so 10A is fine.

Intend to install the Traxide system, so should work well as as 10A should be able to replenish both batteries, whereas drawing on the aux for the fridge and lights.

[drivesafe]

Hi phl and if you’re fitting one of my DBS kit ( Traxide ) that has the Anderson plug at the rear, you could charge both your auxiliary and cranking battery through that.

[phl]

Drivesafe,

I wasn't looking at adding the Anderson plug, as I don't have a caravan. Wouldn't charging through the 12S also activate charging of the aux battery as it would mimic at alternator?

[drivesafe]

The Anderson plug set up would be simpler but not if you don't have one. :D

The S12 connection will be fine.

[phl]

Well, in anticipation of the new car (which should be off the production line in hopefully just over a week), I decided to make up a Ctek to 12S connector. Yes, I know I can buy one off DISCO4, but I also needed the make Ctek connector for another project, so decided to make my own.

Total cost was $30 including postage of parts from UK, but if you halved the cost for the extension cable, cost would be $20.

I was slow, took about 20 minutes, as I kept searching for and referring to wiring diagrams to make sure I don't wire things up incorrectly (and if anyone spots an error, please let me know). So in pictures...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/205.jpg
The bits required, although the sealed connectors are for my solar charger project

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/206.jpg
Wiring up the 12S plug; Ctek red lead (assumed it's +ve) to pin 4, Ctek black (assumed it's -ve) to pin 3. For this plug, the pins were labelled on screw post side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/207.jpg
Putting things back together. The white plate is keyed, so you can't get it the wrong way around. Had to use some cable sheathing to ensure the cable holder held the cable firmly, as the cable is thinner than normal round cable.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/208.jpg
Done!

[trevorj]

Looks good. I did similar, but customised a 12N plug (I think it was just knock out the centre pin) because couldnt easily find a 12S in Perth. I used this wiring diagram. Electronics 2000 | Pin-outs | 12N / 12S Connectors (http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/pin-out/trailer.php)
Seems to work very nicely with a small 7W foldup panel - I use for keeping my 2-batt setup topped up when the D4 doesnt get a run for a few weeks (has so far avoided all low-batt warnings which I used to get occasionally).

[clubagreenie]

Where did you find the sealed connectors? Been looking for them at a reasonable price forever.

[phl]

The sealed connectors I got from AutoStar (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170708481287'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) off eBay; be aware that there are different colours for different diameter cables, so make sure you get the correct one.

A bit more fiddly to put together properly (just converted the other portion of the Ctek extension cable), and am waiting for some sun (it's been coming down the whole day in Sydney) to test the solar panel (100W) before I cut that cable.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and you don’t need a sealed type connector as water does not conduct, not even salt water and/or mud.

To conduct, water has to have some sort of conducting contaminate mixed with it before you can get a bridge between terminals.

Now to a suggestion to simplify both the battery charger and solar panel connection.

Try Anderson 30 amp Power Poles and below are some examples of what can be done with these great little connectors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/680.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/346.jpg

[phl]

Drivesafe,

Thanks for the heads-up; the reason I went for the sealed connection was more the chance of mud etc getting into the connectors, and preventing proper contact, rather than water conduction at 12-16V.

[AnD3rew]

Hi phl and if you’re fitting one of my DBS kit ( Traxide ) that has the Anderson plug at the rear, you could charge both your auxiliary and cranking battery through that.

I also don't yet have a trailer, but I put the plug in in anticipation of one, but I am already finding having the plug there very useful, I have put an Anderson plug on my ARB compressor and instead of popping the hood and putting alligator clips on the battery I just plug into the rear Anderson plug, can also use it for attaching solar panels to charge up in camp. I also attached an Anderson plug to the pair of alligator clips I took off the compressor and can now use it for all kinds of things such as an inverter. Am also going to put a plug onto a work/camp light for it.

[clubagreenie]

Same here for the sealed connectors. Most of the ones I've found have very small (1-1.5mm) pins and just as small apertures for wires. Are they available larger for stuff like driving lights etc where the connector is exposed and also where you don't need a $500- crimper.

[djambalawa]

The Anderson plug set up would be simpler but not if you don't have one. :D

The S12 connection will be fine.

Hiya drivesafe - I'm just wondering whether I should just wire up a 12s > anderson adaptor to charge my camper trailer whilst I'm driving or whether I should use a traxide system.

I'm not too worried about stuff like main battery charge protection etc as I'd only use it when driving...

What would I be missing out on without the traxide? It seems the LR plug is designed to charge caravan batteries etc anyway?

[Nate]

Yeah, I have the same dilemma. I'm awaiting delivery of a jayco outback with a battery, 120W solar panel and a fridge. I too am not sure whether I need to modify the existing connections on my 2013 D4. I have a CTEK DBS currently to run an ARB fridge in the boot and an air compressor in the bonnet. All done by my local land rover mechanic who'll more than likely guide me through this new decision as well but always good to her other options and experiences.

[Tombie]

That Ctek will limit charging to 20amp - it will take a lot of driving to recharge low house batteries...

Something to keep in mind

[Nate]

Thanks Tombie, this is all really new to me so I'm all ears. I did a bit if research and now only have more questions. I take your point about the CTEK, it seems most ppl on the forum have the traxide system which I asked my mechanic to fit but he put in a CTEK D250S. He explained to me at the time why he thought it was better for my purposes but it was all too confusing, he may as well have been speaking swahili. When I read the forum I really wish I had the traxide as everyone speaks their wonders but I'm stuck with the CTEK and after a bit of reading about these on the interweb they sound pretty good.

The CTEK D250S is DC-DC charger and has the ability to take both a solar and an alternator input but is limited to 20 amp current for charging. How long will that take to charge a 100 amp hour caravan battery, plus the crank battery and a D34 yellow top? Obviously it depends on how much they've been depleted but I ask because CTEK has another component called a smart pass which can up the charge current to 80 amps. Is it worth getting? Do I need it?

The new Jayco (I'll get in july) has a 100amp hour deep cycle battery, 120w solar panel and a setek battery management system. I'm wondering whether I'll be able to charge the caravan battery effectively via the CTEK at 20amps? Also it seems I should be able to connect all 3 batteries to the car alternator via the CTEK but can I connect the 120W solar panel on the caravan to all three batteries and what connection to the van would be the best to make this possible.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

N

BTW I've got a MY13 D4 SDV6 SE

[discotwinturbo]

Hi Nate,

I chose not to go the tarxide way even though everyone is wrapped with them, and they are designed and built for the Disco.

I have a redarc 20amp charging my second battery a 110 amp agm. Factory battery is charged by the car.

In my camper I have a 25 amp ctek charging two 105 amp hour agm batteries. These are also charged by solar and 240 volt.

I chose to move away from bulk chargers about 8 years ago due to too many battery failures. The yellow tops handle big amps but I prefer the regular agms as they hold on much longer in my power needs.

This combo is perfect for my needs.

Brett....