View Full Version : Floor Insulation
numpty
15th January 2013, 05:54 PM
I have a complaint from my passenger that her feet get hot from the floor in my Defender (Td5) I assume it's from the exhaust as well as the usual transmission heat buid up.
 
Does anyone have a fix for this and if so what have you done?
chook73
15th January 2013, 06:11 PM
I suggest a search there are a few threads on this.
MLD
15th January 2013, 06:50 PM
i posted a project on this about 6 months ago under projects/tutorials.  what i didn't do and regret is focus on the aperture where the gear stick passes through into the cabin.  it's a source of noise and heat.
while i had great results on the noise front, by and large the heat persists.  The best way to address the heat is an external heat shield barrier but that comes with its own problems ie trapping dirt and moisture and access to the fire wall and transmission tunnel.
cheers MLD
pop058
15th January 2013, 07:12 PM
This was on the floor of a Defer I looked at a while ago.
Don 130
15th January 2013, 07:46 PM
I made a fairly crude but effective heat shield out of some zincalume flashing material. it's got two layers held together by long pop rivets that also pass through spacers about 6mm long and cut from 1/4" copper tubing. It's screwed to the body above the exhaust. I don't have any pictures at present and it's dark outside, so I'll take some tomorrow if you want. There's also a layer of 10mm, self adhesive, foil backed, aircon ducting foam stuck to the whole of the underside of the body. Excess heat is effectively banished.
Don.
FANTOM P38
15th January 2013, 08:35 PM
I have a mate who runs a business that specialises in heat/noise suppression
materials for industry & I know he has had to solve this problem before.
pm me & I will pass on his details.
numpty
16th January 2013, 11:38 AM
I made a fairly crude but effective heat shield out of some zincalume flashing material. it's got two layers held together by long pop rivets that also pass through spacers about 6mm long and cut from 1/4" copper tubing. It's screwed to the body above the exhaust. I don't have any pictures at present and it's dark outside, so I'll take some tomorrow if you want. There's also a layer of 10mm, self adhesive, foil backed, aircon ducting foam stuck to the whole of the underside of the body. Excess heat is effectively banished.
Don.
 
Cheers Don
 
Photos would be helpful when you get a chance.
 
Perry
flagg
16th January 2013, 04:50 PM
i posted a project on this about 6 months ago under projects/tutorials.  what i didn't do and regret is focus on the aperture where the gear stick passes through into the cabin.  it's a source of noise and heat.
while i had great results on the noise front, by and large the heat persists.  The best way to address the heat is an external heat shield barrier but that comes with its own problems ie trapping dirt and moisture and access to the fire wall and transmission tunnel.
cheers MLD
How would you do it? Sounds like a good idea.
numpty
17th January 2013, 09:56 AM
Thanks all, I have a few things to chase up now.
wilga
17th January 2013, 07:03 PM
Just finished installing fat mat in my 130 , I did the rear seat box and cab wall behind the rear seats last week , it has made quite a difference to being able to hear passengers in the back , today i did the roof front seat box ,firewall  and transmission tunnel , big difference at idle was noticed straight away , alot quieter on road as well , I took MLD,s advice and double layered the tunnel as well as sealing as close to the gear leavers as possible making a boot out of the fat mat , heat should be well down along with the road noise
Cracka
17th January 2013, 07:21 PM
G'day Guys,
You guys that have fitted the fat mat (Wilga) or similar insulation.  Specifically the front seat box, how do you go with clearance issues with the front outer corner hitting your door panels when you have the insulation and then standard black rubber mat over it.  I only have the standard black mat and this already creates a pressure spot on the panel when the doors are closed?
Mick
wilga
17th January 2013, 08:06 PM
I put  on the inside of the seat boxes and under the seat box lids , i used more material probably by doing it that way but as you say there is no clearance on the doors , dont seal the  bottom of the battery box it needs to breathe
Cracka
17th January 2013, 08:50 PM
Ahaaaa, a light bulb moment...:)...thanks mate.
If you don't mind, when you get some idea as to whether it helps with interior heat, through the floor/seat box, can you post up and let us know?
Thanks
Mick
wilga
18th January 2013, 06:01 AM
sure , I will conduct a therrmo testing program over the weekend,using two sensors in the drivers side . One bare left foot and one bare right foot should be able to pick up any improvement.
rick130
18th January 2013, 09:16 AM
This is a Tdi, but you get the idea ;)
Effective for heat and a little noise, it goes all the way to the back of the t/case.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=55711&stc=1&d=1358464507
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/444/img0350ea.jpg
Don 130
18th January 2013, 05:52 PM
Numpty, Here's some photos of what I've done.
Don.
MLD
19th January 2013, 07:08 PM
How would you do it? Sounds like a good idea.
Hi Flagg,  I covered about 3 items of discussion.  Which were you referring to?
If you meant the aperture I'd probably use a combination of EVA closed cell foam, the JayCar insulation product I used and securing the rubber boot better to the tunnel.  I've noticed that noise and heat increase significantly when the rubber boot rides up off the lip and exposes the aperture.  I haven't looked at it close enough to figure out a workable solution bar to say I know it's a source of a noise and heat.
If you meant the external heat shield, I can only defer to others on the forum that have installed it.  I haven't had cause to remove my TC and gearbox so I haven't taken the heat shield idea beyond just that an idea.  The principle of blocking heat from the outside is sound, it's the installation with everything in place that is the tricky bit.
cheers MLD
spudfan
24th January 2013, 08:40 AM
You could get a roll mat that you sleep on in your sleeping bag and put that under your floortrim and transmission tunnel trim. You can also line the  inside of the seat boxes with it. Seen it done on a tdi. It is a cheap and easy way to help with noise suppression too.
vnx205
24th January 2013, 08:46 AM
If all else fails, your passenger could try the method my wife used to keep her feet cool in the Series III from Roper Bar to Borroloola.
She sat with her feet in a bucket of water. :D
wilga
24th January 2013, 02:39 PM
test results are in has made quite a difference to heat doing a double layer left side is still warmer than the right so I shall follow the stop it getting in route rather than  continuing to try and resolve it from the inside , has made a difference to the quality of sound from the cd player to
wilga
10th February 2013, 03:46 PM
I removed my wind deflectors yesterdayd the difference to air circulation and cabin temp is huge , even when you jump in and tne cars been sitting in the sun its cooler obviously better air flow but im also thinking the deflectors where magnifying the heat going through them
patclan
10th February 2013, 06:03 PM
I unscrewed the floor panels, passenger and driver as well as the middle row one, I then painted the underside with sound deadening paint, the black tar stuff from bunnings, once it dried I stuck the 10mm adhesive backed aluminum faced closed cell sound/heat proofing stuff from Clark rubber on to it (around $30 a sqm), this is all on the underside, I also put it under the cubby box, and if I remember correctly I put it on the underside of the seat boxes.
The biggest culprit for heat in my Puma is the Cat, I removed it and put in a decat, and all was cool, but when I had my end of warranty check done I put the cat pipe back in and it is still there, ( have not got round to swapping it back) but the difference in heat is huge.  I have my decat pipe wrapped and will put it back in soon, but if you can get shot of that I would, or wrap it as others have suggested that may help.
I also put a layer of that 10m stuff on the inside of the floor panels and around the seat boxes and also on the underside of the seat box lids and on the top.  And to top it off there is a double layer of the stuff in the foot wells.
I did the back also but as this is on heat I wont go into any deatail as that was mainly for sound.
Cheers 
Pat
Dougal
10th February 2013, 06:47 PM
Dynamat, fatmat etc is only for deadening panels.  It doesn't do much to stop heat or noise by itself.
You need an insulating layer between the now deadened panels and your internal carpet/vinyl.  EVA foam (same stuff as camping rolls) is excellent for this.
Cracka
20th March 2013, 08:15 PM
I've been adding some sound/heat insulation, and it DOES make a difference in both aspects.  I used Roadkill Stinger Extreme.  It took 1 box of 9 sheets and 1 other sheet to do this so far.  Just have the back door to go and then I'll start the front.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/417.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/418.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/419.jpg
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