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happydad59
18th January 2013, 09:52 AM
We went for the first real test drive today, thanks to all who have answered all of my naive questions over the last 6 months.


Unfortunately, after having driven about 20 km in the city and the heat two things were really obvious, an obvious rattle from the gear box area over about 25 mph - irrespective of gear, it was there in second, third and fourth, but only above 25, if i dropped below 25 in any gear it went away.
Secondly, the handbrake had ceased to work. Looking under I saw a fair bit of gearbox oil around the place and streams of oil coming out of the drain holes in the front of the handbrake drum. Presumably this is from some seal at the rear of the box - is this a difficult repair, or, with the rattle from above, does it indicate a more serious rebuild is warranted?

Dinty
19th January 2013, 06:55 AM
I can't help you with your ? Gearbox noise issue, because I'm not there to hear/feel it but the handbrake is an easy fix.
To replace the oil seal at the rear of the T/case, chock the vehicle and make it safe before getting under it, you will first need to drain the oil from the T/case, while that is draining loosen the 4 nuts that hold the prop shaft to the output flange in the middle of the handbrake assembly, then undo the 4 bolts at the differential, remove prop shaft.
Now remove the split pin in the castellated nut, undo the nut, slide the handbrake drum and output flange off the splined shaft.
Next remove the split pin and undo/remove the pin attached to the bell crank off
the chassis, this has then effectively disconnected the handbrake.
Next step is to undo the 4 nuts that hold the handbrake assembly to the T/case, for this you will need either 5/16"whit worth socket/ring spanner, undo and remove this housing, the seal is in that housing from memory, seals are the same for S2/2A &S3, while you have the output flange out,check the running surface for a wear mark, if you can see a line in the steel, or feel it with your finger nail, you will either have to replace that part or buy a speedi-sleeve otherwise your new seal will leak, refit is the reverse, and don't forget to refill with oil, hope that's of some help to you, not a big job at all, cheers Dennis
Ps from your image it would appear your 88" could be a late model S2AGS (ex.mil) it appears to have the raised chassis??.
pps here is image of the housing where the seal is, this is a very s/hand spare, occassionaly when you undo the nuts that hold the h/brake assembly the studs screw out as you can see in this image, and it is upside down on a shelf,,.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_1066.jpg

happydad59
19th January 2013, 07:31 AM
Dennis, thanks for all the detail, will get onto it today. How would I be able to confirm that the landie is ex-military? I'm new to series ladies but have always thought that this one appears to be a lot taller than most - on 235 x 85 tyres the bottom of the doors are 630 mm off the ground and at the front the body panels are 75 mm higher than the bumper. The manufacturers plate inside just identifies it as a Series 2a 88“ - but there is a second plate from the Pressed Metal Corporation Sydney with a second serial number and Body Number LRS 9161. The wheel arches are also squared off rather than curved.

happydad59
19th January 2013, 07:38 AM
Here is a photo of the two plates.

incisor
19th January 2013, 07:55 AM
whats the vehicle number on the plate?

and is it the same as the number that should be on the back rear spring shackle support on the passenger side facing outwards so you can see it thru the wheel well?

Dinty
19th January 2013, 08:15 AM
If your chassis is an ex-mil chassis it should look like this at the front, the image you supplied looks from the angle to have the extensions, but I could be wrong??
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/113-372OperationRubicscube29112002.jpg
it will also have raised extensions for the rear as well.
In the dash lhs if ex-mil it should have a Nomenclature plate held in place by 4 2BA screws, if is has a cover plate for lhs steering it will be held in place by 4 rivets.
The chassis number is the best way of identifying the vehicle, cheers Dennis

happydad59
19th January 2013, 04:14 PM
Vehicle number is 24307125B and Serial Number on extra plate is 889161. There is a LHSteering hole blocked by small plate with 4 rivets, but no Nomenculature plate unless it is the cover for the spiral drive wiper motor on the far left - that has 4 bolts. Can't read the number on the spring hanger, going to need a bit of work to remove the paint and rust prevention stuff.

Not sure what the extensions that you talk about are, but have included a couple of photos of front and back. She has a Holden engine, so radiator and grill etc have been moved forward.

Got the rear drive flange out OK, had some deep score marks so am having it sleeved early next week.

Dinty
20th January 2013, 08:01 AM
Well your vehicle is a civvie Land Rover, nothing wrong with that either, it must have been the angle of the image that it looked like it had a mil chassis.
Did the previous owner buy this vehicle off eBay???? As it looks similar to one which was sold from Bellbird nr Cessnock about 15 months ago??.
Speedi sleeves are very easy to fit no special tooling needed, anyway mate cheers for now Dennis

happydad59
20th January 2013, 09:59 AM
Dennis, last on the expired rego papers was Bell bird - well picked, anything I should know?