Injecting Cavity Wax

[scanfor]

I've tried to use a schutz gun with a long hose on it to poke up into the A pillar from the bottom, but all I ended up achieveing was popping the bottle off the gun and sparying cavity wax all over the driver's door.
I'm just wondering what gun people have successfully used to get the wax atomised up inside the cavities?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Scott

[newhue]

schutz gun should work, no blockages anywhere.

[bcj]

would taking door off and entering through hinge holes work? You may be able to access top of bulkhead corner (rust prone)from top hinge as well

Brett

110 300tdi

[scanfor]

That might work too, but I've found a hole in the base of the A-pillar through which I can get a small diameter pipe right up to that top corner.
When I tried to undo the door hinge bolts I must have snapped a captive nut inside the pillar and the bolt is just spinning in the hole.:mad:

[BilboBoggles]

I've tried to use a schutz gun with a long hose on it to poke up into the A pillar from the bottom, but all I ended up achieveing was popping the bottle off the gun and sparying cavity wax all over the driver's door.
I'm just wondering what gun people have successfully used to get the wax atomised up inside the cavities?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Scott


Ah - Timely post - I've just been rust treating my new Fender. I tried using that Valvoline cavity wax on my last Fender - with the Schultz gun. I could nto get it to work either - and it did the same to me. I ended up using a Kerosene Wash Gun, it's used for degreasing parts with air/kero. Worked really quite well. But I really think the problem was the cavity wax was too thick to spray well.

So this time - on my new one - I used some POR Rust preventative oil - it's basically non smelly fish oil. I used this with the Kero gun again , I could not find a spare connector for the Schultz gun, and again it worked really quite well. The oil is as thin as diesel, and spreads really well, it does not clump like that cavity waz did. The air pressure is enough to force the oil quite a distance.

I've also used the Valvoline Tectyl in a spray can and that worked well too. I've just not had much luck with spraying the heavy cavity wax.

[clubagreenie]

I've done exactly what you've described. As long as the gun has the plastic nozzle still on it, extend with some of the clear plastic tube a bit smaller, heat in some water and stretch on. Once cooled it should stay on. Then if you need a smaller tube, make a reducer from some copper tube fitted in the same way.

Keep the cans as you can refill from bulk containers or use for other stuff like fish oil etc.

[newhue]

you can go in via a rubber plug near the windscreen wipers to try and access the far corners of the windscreen. Passengers is easier the drivers to access.
I also took a bolt out of the windscreen joiner cover plate (fake hinge). It's an interesting exercise on just how little holds these things together.

If the cavity wax seems to thick, you could cut it with some kero or diesel but then you will have a smell for a while. GP thinners will also work or what ever it's clean up product is advised. You could also warm it slightly on a stove or gas cooker to thin it. It won't take much and be careful. I have no idea a of the flash point. But Auto sprayers once did this instead of thinners, as thinners took the shine out of the paint.