Help Need information regurding 110 10MY

[phs]

Hi to all my name is phil.
i am new to the defender scene thow not to 4 wheel driving

i have sold up my beloved BJ70 and want to upgrade i have been in deep thought about what to buy HDJ79R or GU 4.2Ti.

after long long discussions, about what is suited for me i thought defender ( good ground clearance, solid unit does'nt need illegal lift and tyres to get around in the bush with out damage, and the headache of legal legality that goes with big lift and tyres ).

so i stumbled across a 2010 Defender 110 10MY, 2 door tray back
2.4 lt. intercooled diesel low KM's 6spd.man.

BUT,

i have no idea about these 4x4s ?

i have a few questions if any of you guy's would be kind enough to answer

is this specific model prone to any common problems ?

does it handle river crossings well (ie water in cabin ?)

solid diffs, gearbox and motor ?

motor longevity and fuel per 100kms ?

i love the defenders shape i know they have a good approach angle.
i like that the wheel base is closer than the other utes i looked at
i already priced a 2inch lift (totally legal) and rear and front lockers
hoping to fit 33x10.5 ?

not looking to go extream just a tough tourer that doesn't get damaged if it stumbles into trouble

and yeah hoping people have good things to say and ill soon be one proud owner !!!!:):):):):):)

thanks in advance
phil

[Chops]

G'day Phil,
If you trawl through here you'll find plenty of info concerning the "Puma" and it's possible shortfalls.
I have had mine just over a year now, and other than a problem with the ECU (fixed under warranty) I have had no real issues at all.
They are quite capable straight out of the box, I do run a second set of rims/tyres, but only because I had them, and they are only 31's :D
I'm sure others will give you some better or more info, so, welcome to the club, and don't take too long before you come out with the group (We need more Defenders on our trips :D). :wasntme:

Cheers

[phs]

well that was quick i did read about the puma a second ago but they were referring to a 2.2 lt ?
what were your cars symptoms ?
the one im looking at still has new car warranty but im looking to set this up and keep it long term

thanks for the reply
ill start a few searches about pump 2.4 thanks

[redrovertdi]

Have you sat in a 2 door cab chassis? im 182cms high and the seating was to cramped for me, i have a 110 wagon and the seats go a lot further back.
Richard

[Loubrey]

Phil,

I drive a 2010 90 which is identical to the 110 PU you are enquiring about right up to the rear propshaft and then the bits beyond.

Defenders are unique vehicles in every sense and everyone is slightly different from the next.

My vehicle has been to the dealer for it's 6 normal services relating to its age and kilometers without as much as a hint of trouble or additional warranty work. A 2.5 to three year old vehicle would have most niggles sorted if any and should be a sound investment.

To be honest, some guys don't rate the rear diff (different from the 90) but there are lots and lots out there with no issues whatsoever. You sound like the type of bloke that might look at a rear locker in any case which would put any such concerns to rest.

In terms of wading (with an appropriate RAI or snorkel) they remain in a class of their own. Water will get in, but it will get out as quickly due to the absence of a lip or sill and you can hose it out afterwards in any case. The only concern with wading would be the fly-by-wire throttle sensor at the top of the accelerator pedal, but there are already solutions posted here.

Fuel consumption will heavily depend on your driving style due to the absence of aerodynamics, but unloaded driving should return 10 to 12 litre per 100km.

If you have test driven it and you like the way it drives (seating position, gearing etc) you will not find a better off road vehicle (well, maybe a 90:D)

Cheers,

Lou

[phs]

i am 5,11 so i dont think it would be a huge drama.

Thow im searching puma's and still have nt finished reading how bad the diffs are and its been 30mins. .....

[phs]

thanks lou.
id be definitely looking at a locker, but guys on here say its a waste of money for that diff as it is just too weak fullstop

im in a situation where i have coin to set it up as soon as i get it, but don't want to keep forking out cash getting it repaired or worse yet stranded in the bush

[Chenz]

Don't know about the Puma but my old 200 Tdi has no problems with the water. I think it is part duck. Sure some H2O gets in but with Land Rover door seals it gets back out quicker:o

Get a Fender, you won't look back

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/344.jpg

[blue_mini]

The money you save by not getting a 2 inch lift and bigger tyres you can get a disc brake Salisbury rear diff and never have a problem.

[Chops]

Phil, I tend to agree with Richard as to seating position, you may find it cramped, you may not. Take it for a decent test drive, then check out a Station Wagon, and you should be able to work it out.
I've had more water in my car from wet roads than from wading, and I've been half way+ up the doors.
My ECU problem was not long after I got it (new). It just sounded like it ran rough at idle, but I didn't feel anything. So at 1st service I mentioned this, it was suggested it could be doing some kind of engine clean (???). On investigation they swapped out the unit, and also the injectors, as for some reason they couldn't match the olds ones to the new unit.

The car itself,, I love it :wub:. Starting to set it up for touring, although I don't mind playing every now and then.

Cheers, and hope to see you out there soon.

[goingbush]

Phil,

Ive had Landrovers for 30 years but went to the Dark Side and had three Toyotas, BJ40, HDJ80R & HZJ105R, so I know where your coming from. (I was tempted by the VDJ76R)
Back in a Defender (MY05) now & can report that I know the truck will go where I want to go, instead of wondering if it will when I was in Tojo. Just feels so much sure footed and enjoyable to drive in any situation, ... its just the vibe.

Re a 2" Lift, I would not go there in any 07 onward (Ford engine) Defender. Plenty on here about it, you have to do a lot to make it work, they are more than capable enough with standard height springs.

(Re the rear diff, mate they are abysmal, I'd be putting a Salisbury in it, no questions)

and then there is this (author unknown - anyone here ?? )



Overall: This car is cool....very cool. Cool people step out of defenders; farmers, soldiers, firefighters, aid workers, explorers, royalty, mountain rescuers, special forces. It's not a car for men who are so highly preened and plucked they look like women. It's not a car for men who have a need to be looked at or feel the need to have a highly tuned 'chick magnet' with a 'woofer' box the size of a small country in the boot to prove they are a man. Metro sexual males will wince at the thought of climbing into a Defender in case they dirty their Armani jeans.
The man who drives a Defender is a down to earth, practical, modest all round bloody good egg that has a million cool stories about his life. He has no need for a 'big fast red' accessory to feel like he's made it in the world. When Landcruiser drivers criticise Defenders, Defender drivers just smile wryly. If someone criticises a Toyota you can bet you will receive an hour long lecture on why Toyotas are so good. Good maybe....but definitely not cool. One could say almost like any type of whitegoods....useful, practical but definitely not cool.
So there you go, if you are considering buying a Defender you will be part of a unique group of individuals, how many times have you driven a Toyota and had other Toyota drivers give you a wave when passing? Drive a Defender and you automatically enter into a unique band of people.



let us know if you make the right decision and become Lucky Phil

[phs]

what roughly im i looking at to get diffs upgraded and locked to a STD im not scared to take it out bush cause it might need towing back ?

ill be honest, im happy iv been searching as it seems there are a fair few dramas
with these models and not the odd one but 8/10 people have replaced a diff or 2 or 3 times
ok so if i decide its still good ill get diffs sorted asap .

but then a few people are saying gearboxs are also getting replaced
amongst alot of little things in between.

i dunno i really hate cars that fail, i think i could get a case of hate if things kept braking, not to say that it would but there are so many that have, don't want to rabbit on but i just sold a 4x4 that went every were slow but steady, most importantly never left me stranded or really had any issues at all, hmm maybe 1 rear pinion seal in 140,000kms and it was a 35y/o car. just needed more space ie. ute tray.

been able to truly rely on my next 4x4 is a must.

i really want to love this 4x4 its has so much to offer for a fair price but i dunno if ill take such a risk with the issues.

if i could just run 35's legal, the HDJ79R hands down, if the 4.2ti gu was nt such a pig of a motor its a look in. if the 110 10MY was as reliable as the other 2 id buy it 9am tomorrow.

looks like ill just have to keep researching and weigh up my options...

thanks for the reply goingbush

regarding the 2ich lift . (40mm as listed my the suspension guys)
they put me on to bilsten shocks (expensive) and offered 2 sets of raised springs HD and STD, HDs being for the isusu motor ? but they said it will work fine if the 4x4 is set up with some weight, and camping ill have 500kgs on at least.

[goingbush]

Phil, if you don't love your Defender you will hate it. Eventho they are more than capable enough out of the box they do have quirks, (as any handbuilt car would) if you have deep pockets or can do all the work yourself you will end up with a great truck. If you hate being on the end of a spanner a 79 will be the ticket.

The yobbos next door to me often do rollbacks in their Nissan patrol & axle hop up the street, if you did that in a Landy there would be a bucket of bits on the ground, its about finesse.

EDIT

Mate, if its a Ute your after, can you hang out till 2015
this looks the goods

http://www.caradvice.com.au/185784/jeep-wrangler-ute-chance-2015/

[phs]

I must admit I got over consistently playing with cars (ie fixing them myself) my life is some what to busy to make time.
Can't wait the BJ is already gone ,I have no car.
The one I'm looking at is a 110 10my 2 door . 20,000 kms old 2010 model seems priced well.

Like I said before if there was nt so many issues I'd buy it in a heart beat .
ill call a few diff places and see what that would set me back first . then assess the reminding issues.

And as far a treating the car with respect . I treat all my stuff very very well.

[Chops]

If you want a tourer, I don't believe you'll go past a Land Rover.
I have Toyo's as well, and I know where I'd sooner be.
I'm not sure I understand how so many people supposedly break so much stuff. Every car has flaws when it built, it's nothing to see a showroom car need fixing for RW. Suppliers of car parts to a manufacturer can provide crap parts, all in an effort to save money, both for profit, and to ensure continued work by supplier.
My belief is, if your making a tourer, your not going to "bush bash" it, and of course as we get older, we become better drivers, taking a little more time and effort/care to get over obstacles.
I've only ever broken a front diff and an axle, and both of these were due to my being stupid and not thinking about what I "should" have done. Id like to think that most breakages are similar, but I know there have been several dud components get out there, which is not good for the brand, but does happen. I just hope mine holds together, but it certainly won't stop me doing anything I want to do.

[newhue]

Lifting an 07 onward Defender can have issues. The front prop shaft needs a double uni joint in it. It's a given it will need one for long term reliability. As a side not I met a guy in Birdsville who had a TD5 with a 2' lift put in just before the trip. He was ordering a double uni front shaft has his had failed on the run out there.

The p38 diff in 07 onwards is a bit like a patrol 3lt motor. It's anyone guess if it will go pop. The short pinion length moves on the crown wheel and causes eventual failure, However this is usually related to towing , or heavy laden vehicles. Unfortunately LR quality control has failed badly with replacement diffs, with many owners suffering failures again after replacement. Other have had good runs, mine is 70K old with no problems. However I have come across an opportunity to swap over so I am doing so.
So your options are put a locker in, not a bad fix but doesn't solve the short pinion. Replace the diff from a model with good track record, = Salisbury diff. Or Ashcroft ( a UK based trans and gbox shop) are working on an extended nose and pinion for the P38. Linked with a locker then it should all be back to the way it should be, strong and reliable.

Given it's coming up to 3 years old most if not all the silly warranty stuff should be sorted. But I can guarantee being a defender it will not give you years of trouble free motoring. It may not let you down in a show stoping sense, but they tend to require regular attention. Like 20K transfer case oil changes, and you cant not service it and flog it for 20K then change the oil like perhaps in a Toyo, it just wont cope. However for comfort and capability it will run rings around the opposition. And they are a modifiers dream when it come to touring set ups anyway.

[phs]

ok well i have spoken to 2 land rover specialists, they think, the diff's are not that bad, but said they do understand they can fail, and the axles are the weak point, any way they quoted me for diff rebuild, Upgraded axles and arb locks front and back. as a solution to improving reliability and said the next weak point would be the CV's but only when running fairly big tyres.
I am only looking and running 33's so i am thinking it should be ok.
Any ones thoughts ?

regarding the lift they did agree that 40mm lift can be an issue but said they do 30mm all the time no dramas at all
question is will i fit 33's under a 30mm lift ?

[goingbush]

ok well i have spoken to 2 land rover specialists, they think, the diff's are not that bad, but said they do understand they can fail, and the axles are the weak point, any way they quoted me for diff rebuild, Upgraded axles and arb locks front and back. as a solution to improving reliability and said the next weak point would be the CV's but only when running fairly big tyres. <snip>


Phil,

I think with Traction Control ARB front locker may not be the best choice

My Defender is set up for touring & towing, In fact we have the house on the market and are leaving next month to spend an indefinite time period on the road / & towing off road caravan. Have spent the last 12 months building up the 110 to be reliable.

I decided to leave the front axles and CV's original, but have installed a Teruetrac front diff, combined with Traction Control the Truetrac dramatically reduces shock loads and wear / tear on the cv's and axles,
if you Fit ARB locker upgrading Axles & CV's mandatory.

Same argument for rear, a ARB diff lock makes the Traction Control redundant, but if you use a Truetrac (or Ashcroft ATB ) it works very well with TC, Whatever rear diff you end up with I'd still go HD axles and drive flanges.

[LowRanger]

ok well i have spoken to 2 land rover specialists, they think, the diff's are not that bad, but said they do understand they can fail, and the axles are the weak point, any way they quoted me for diff rebuild, Upgraded axles and arb locks front and back. as a solution to improving reliability and said the next weak point would be the CV's but only when running fairly big tyres.
I am only looking and running 33's so i am thinking it should be ok.
Any ones thoughts ?

regarding the lift they did agree that 40mm lift can be an issue but said they do 30mm all the time no dramas at all
question is will i fit 33's under a 30mm lift ?

Phil

If you just want to drive and forget,just lock it front and rear,fit new axles and Ashcrofts CV's and flanges.
255/85/16 tyres 33.5" will fit without lift,and a small lift shouldn't hurt
Anything else is just a compromise;)
No need for any pfaffing around.

[phs]

Thanks guys .

so 30mm lift will fit 33's . Or with with out as stated above
Hd axels and Ashcroft cvs are a good idea .
now to the type of lockers ?

what's better ? ARB or tru track or any other brands.
Looking for what's better for both on and off road and bang for your buck no need to waste money on a name .

Thanks again Iv gained confidence in making this a reliable rig.
Looking forward to making the big desicion on Tuesday .

[goingbush]

your taliking about getting a 2010 110 right ?, they have traction control,
( traction control started about 2002 onward in Defenders) Torsen type diffs are the choice ( Truetrac , qualfe lsd or Ashcroft ATB ) , if you have no traction control go for full difflock, ARB et . Unless you go rockhopping or something , truetracs easier on axles / cv and your wallet, and its fit and forget.

if you fit difflocks you must also get HD axles CV's and flanges. but a shame to fit Difflocks over Traction Control,

[phs]

does the model I am looking at come std with traction control front And back ?
and is it as good ?

And should I still look at hd axels and cvs ?

[Chops]

Check to see if it Does have TC, our MY11 Duel Cab ute doesn't, nor does it have ABS, something to with being a commercial vehicle. Although I don't like ABS in the bush, I would like to have had it on the road, as I've had a couple of insidences at traffic lights.
I would have preferred having TC in the bush, but alas,, it's not to be in mine.
So you'll need to check what's on/in it so you can make a descision.

[newhue]

Land Rover invented traction control I think.

90 and 110 wagons have it. 130 twin cab and tray backs don't. They get around it under commercial vehicle code ..... Not sure about 110 utes.

It's becoming a popular choice to fit Eaton Tru Trac, or an Ashcroft ATB, soft lockers to vehicles with traction. Basically it's a limited slip in both ends aided with the ever improving traction control. Reports are it gets quite close or the same as lockers. The big plus is its softer on the drive line with no need for axel or CV upgrades.

Vehicles without traction, pre 02, and any 130 ever do not have traction control so lockers have been a better option. Unless your one of those magic drive and brake kind of dudes.

Some like ARB because they get warranty and are local. I say read your warranty card. It's useless unless you change the oil after every water crossing or after a small number of uses.

Ashcroft, UK based but does good work. I asked him about warranty and he said more than likely your crown and pinion will fail in a P38. But given his in the UK his hands are tied a bit, but certainly if the locker is to blame he will sort it. Initial fitting and repair work also had to be conducted by someone reputable.

E locker, Yukon, something else and Detroit auto locker are you other choices. Maxidrive are very nice, but very expansive. There is some waiting list going on there to I think.

[Scallops]

To be honest, phs, you are going to have more issues with a Defender than you will with a Toyota. That might not be a popular call, but it's true.

If you don't like vehicles that "fail", and that included as sorts of niggly little things with the occasional big thing, look elsewhere.

If you fall for the mystique, the shape, the vibe...then a Defender will likely be the most rewarding vehicle you may ever own.

Good luck with the choice.

[toad]

TC was introduced with the 1999 Defender Extreme model. Apart from soft drive flanges and a gearbox that is marginal, mine has returned reasonable service over 460 000 km. Once we sorted out early ecu problems and oil filled engine looms!

A 40 mm lift front and rear took care of the standard spring sag. I don't run oversized tyres, never found the need and have managed to drive all over Australia, Malasia and Cambodia without problems.

No sign of front cv or axel problems either? The TC works well but does require more throttle than that of a standard model. The wheels need to be spinning for TC to work. Maybe I drive a bit softer than others;)

As to long term reliability, the Defender has had its ups and downs, mainly related to what's not in the Landrover service schedule. I.e. wheel bearings do not appear, but should be checked every 60 000 km. Suspention bushes need to be kept on top of (always use std rubber bushes) as the vehicle can get loose from worn bushes. The good news is that compared to other brands, quality parts are cheaply available. Best of luck.

[LowRanger]

As your original post states that the vehicle you are looking at is a 110 TRAYback,it won't have traction control anyway,and the debate re lockers v's TC and soft locker (TruTrac,ATB )etc. is moot.
There are nay sayers of every brand of vehicle,that will always point out the perceived weaknesses of other vehicles.It is a fact,that there is no such thing as a vehicle that doesn't have faults and weaknesses.You just need to find a vehicle that feels right when you sit in it,and gain pleasure when you look at it.Then you try and eliminate the known weaknesses as best as possible,a lot of people always make the point of stating that it depends on your driving style and where you normally drive as to what you need to modify.I tend to think along different lines,and think outside the square as there will be times that I will drive different places,where it isn't always possible to avoid a particular obstacle,and I would rather have a vehicle that was able to do so safely and without breaking something.Call it over engineering or whatever you like,but I just never like the thought of being stuck in the middle of nowhere with something that is broken,and thinking that a little money spent earlier would have alleviated this problem.
Late model Toyotas,Nissans,Mitsibishis etc all have their inherent faults,so don't think that by buying one of them,over a Land Rover that you will automatically enjoy trouble free motoring,like you have with your older vehicle.The Forums for these other vehicles are full of major failures and let downs at the most inopportune times,and vehicle manufacturers are trying to push the limits with all their components which doesn't leave as much of a safety margin and things tend to fail.
So don't be put off a Defender,as with the "RIGHT" modifications,they will give you many years of enjoyment and service.A testament to this,is the amount of older models you see still running around,compared to older model Toyos and Nissans.
And if you fit into a Defender,you won't find another vehicle that will bring a smile to your face,every time you drive it,like a Defender will.

[phs]

I really appreciate every ones input to making this decision and I'm going to have to make my mind up . the part that I feel this 4x4 has over other cab chassis is its a mid wheel base and can run road legal tyre and suspension setup while still being very capable off road .
but as stated diffs and cvs can be a drama and for what I do mostly ( vic high country ) it will be an issue .
As for the calls of other types of newer makes having problems . can't really agree .
I am looking at patrol 4.2 Ti and hdj79r can't really say any parts are prone to failure , there just to big and heavy and would need 35's to get the ground clearance to aviod damage where I intend to take the 4x4, I'm not mud addict, but as IV Experianced over the years the high Country can get seriouse quickly and a lot of the time once in it there is no turning back . having a SWB 70 I never had and damage but that wheel base with 33's x12.5 s it have great ground clearance. Just that I need a ute and out grew the SWb for storage .
I am definetly one for bullet proofing the best I can to avoid damage or worse yet failure out in the bush .
I guess the part that would annoy me would be if I spent the money on doing the axels flanges cvs and locks then it fails .
I do service my cars every 5000- 6000kms which is only 2 times a year. So that may be an advantage.

[chuck]

PHS

You do not need a lift to run 33's!!

Defenders run a 32"tyre standard.

As per previous post you can run a 255 x 85 x 16 which is bigger than 33 with no lift.

Cheers