View Full Version : Looking at first Fourby
Nang
24th January 2013, 03:59 PM
Hi everyone,
I am new to the forum and just looking for some pitfalls to lookout for on inspecting a Disco 1; Looking at one that has been set up for touring, racks, snorkel, dual battery etc, not lifted, has done plenty of KM's >275K
what do i need to look at in terms or drivetrain, coolant system and suspension?
Cheers, Chris
Judo
24th January 2013, 04:21 PM
Assuming it's a 300TDI:
If you can, find out when the timing belt was last done. Needs to be done every ~80,000kms or risk big problems.
Not sure how to "check the cooling system", but it's definitely something that needs to be in good condition if you make the purchase. Recommend having the radiator rodded/cleaned. Check if the coolant is at least clean and debris free?
Check what colour the expansion tank is. White=good after market. Black=factory installed, needs replacing.
Top radiator plug & top thermostat housing plug. Plastic=bad, needs replacing. Brass=good.
The expansion tank and radiator plugs could be an indication of whether the cooling system has been looked after.
State of the suspension bushes can be checked, but are all consumable items, so you should budget to replace some as part of normal servicing.
Common spots for rust I know of are:
Alpine windows - looks for bulge/bubbles around the rubber seal.
Front footwells under carpet. Difficult to check, but worth a look.
manic
24th January 2013, 05:34 PM
If high mileage TDI engine then there are a few things to check. On start up a puff of smoke is normal but after that it should be pretty clear, constant white/grey/black smoke at idle and you have a problem. A bit of smoke under boost is normal but if its belching there could be a problem or the fuel pump has been turned up too high. On test run if smoke is a concern get the head pressure tested and the injectors tested.
Head gaskets tend to let go at 150k EDIT:whoops thats miles... around 250k in kilometers but should be changed well before that - so if no solid record of the HG having been done you SHOULD change it. V.Cheap if you do it yourself, could be around $500 for a mech.
Overheat is a quick killer so have the cooling system backflushed. New radiators are cheap, worth going new IMO if looks like engine has original rad. Do that and you should run cool even on a 40C+ day.
Timing belt a MUST do if no solid service record.
I'd say its requirement now to put on a better temp gauge (VDO) with matched sender and a low coolant alarm.
Judo
24th January 2013, 05:45 PM
Generally agree with manic, although I'm going to discuss. ;)
Head gaskets tend to let go at 150k but should be changed well before that - so if no solid record of the HG having been done you SHOULD change it. V.Cheap if you do it yourself, could be around $500 for a mech.
Personally I believe this is only true if the engine is overheated, thus the emphasis on the cooling system.
As I'm sure your point is - in relation to a vehicle with nearly 300k on the clock though, it's somewhere between possible and likely it's been overheated at least once, so if you are capable of doing a head gasket change yourself, it would be a peace of mind to know it's in good order.
Overheat is a quick killer so have the cooling system backflushed. New radiators are cheap, worth going new IMO if looks like engine has original rad. Do that and you should run cool even on a 40C+ day.
Completely agree.
Timing belt a MUST do if no solid service record.
Definitely. Very cheap if you can do it yourself.
I'd say its requirement now to put on a better temp gauge (VDO) with matched sender and a low coolant alarm.
Literally 5 minutes ago I opened a package with a new VDO mechanical temp gauge to install in my Disco.... :D
Judo
24th January 2013, 05:47 PM
^^ 250k is more reasonable. :D :D Perhaps I should have just said, "agree with all". :angel:
Nang
26th January 2013, 08:09 AM
Thanks Guys,
just missed out the Disco, but will keep looking, I am after a D1 300TDI, has to be manual for my kids as a learner(well actually for me, but don't tell the missus), can't stand "P" platers in hotted up Autos, seen too many wrapped around trees. thanks for the advice on what to look for,
Cheers,
Chris
Nang
14th February 2013, 12:35 PM
Just been to look at a 98 D1, 370k on the clock, engine well serviced, but has never had head gasket replaced, replaced fuel pump, and gearbox and clutch at 310k, only rust i could find under all the dirt was in below drivers side alpine. other problems rear passenger window actuator not working, gremlin in the speedo...ocasionally the speedo fails to register and drops back to zero when in motion, initially wanting $5k, but just replaced rear bearings and uni joints and looking for $6k. not using any oil or coolant between 5k services
question are:
do I avoid
if I proceed how much will an alpine rust repair job be (only 1 side)?
is head gasket a definite if still holding up well?
is it prudent to fit a new radiator if things have been ok up to now?
are the speedo gremlins easy to hunt down and exorcise?
cheers,
Chris
loanrangie
14th February 2013, 01:19 PM
Definitely avoid, too much for that mileage. Keep looking till you find one with less k's for less $$$.
Judo
14th February 2013, 04:01 PM
I'd have to agree for $6k you can get less kms. A lot less I would think...
Sussdisco
16th February 2013, 11:54 AM
just as a benchmark mate, i know its not a manual tdi but, i bought my 1996 auto v8 early jan this year with 185 000kms for 4.5k with 10 months rego, 1 owner with log books to 100k, Pirelli scorpions 245/70r16 with 90% tread, towbar front and rear, nudgebar with hella spotties, dual battery system with a deep cycle, 2inch lift (new shocks and springs), electric brake set up, clean paint and interior with a little wear on the drivers seat from getting in and out.
does have 2 door lock actuator issues which im going to attack shortly, but for the price, theres a lot of car me thinks
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