Modified Voyager Rover Rack Setup - lights, jack, jerry can, awning, tent and Maxitra

[twr7cx]

I have finally finished my roof rack setup.

It started life as a Voyager Rover Rack Standard ( Land Rover Discovery Series II Roof Racks (http://www.voyagerracks.com/DIIVR.htm) ) that I purchased from Peninsula Range (I think - https://www.google.com.au/webhp'sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&ie=UTF-8#hl=en&tbo=d&sclient=psy-ab&q=peninsula+rangie&oq=peninsula+rangie&gs_l=hp.3..0l4.3122463.3136409.0.3136498.39.22.1.7 .8.4.1061.7423.4-3j6j2j1.12.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.9vAh1GvDQgQ&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41524429,d.dGY&fp=e9fe9caeb27ca466&ion=1&biw=1314&bih=1258 ).

Next came the modifications:

First up two sets of Narva Extreme lights along the two. Two broad beams angled on each side and two pencil beams in the centre. 100w Narva globes for a total of 400w. I'm probably going to have to do something about this though as at present the voltage drops to 11.6v at idle if they are turned on along with the standard headlights, bright beams and driving lights mounted on the ARB Sahara bar. Voltage is fine when the vehicle is driving though. I'm wondering if a third battery in the system might help...
Originally I ordered a Baja rack, but they after two months figured out they actually didn't have any stock, then went through a long refund process. By this stage I had already ordered the gear to suit the Baja rack and when I measured the Narva Extreme's, they were too large to fit underneath the light bar on the Voyager Rover Rack Challenge Edition.

On the back I mounted a Narva work lamp ( Products (http://narva.com.au/products/detail/84/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=emergency-lighting-popup-layout) ) it has a protective grill on the face and a rocker switch built into the back. It is connected to the second battery (deep cycle) and is perfectly positioned for the annex of the roof top tent.
I cut and moved the rear light mount on the back from the side above the lader to the centre.

The wiring for the lights runs up the side of the Safari snorkel.

Along the drivers side I welded on brackets for the Maxitrac and brackets for the 60" Ironman high lift jack - you can see it has a bit of overhang, but the towbar still protrudes out further...
On the passenger side I welded on brackets for the Tigerz11 2.4 x 2.0m awning.

On the top, we cut off the back of the basket and moved it forward half way. This made the rear flat for the roof top tent to mount. In front of that inside the basket is a dual jerry can holder from Opposite Lock and a gas bottle holder from eBay.

On the rear spare wheel is a axe and shovel carrier from Opposite Lock.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/191.jpg
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/189.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/193.jpg

[BMKal]

That looks brilliant mate. Definitely worth the wait to get it all as you wanted.

Will keep my eye out for it next time we're over that way.

[SiddersC]

Looks good!

Quite a bit of weight up top though, when fully loaded.

[Jeff]

Does it feel top heavy?

Jeff

:rocket:

[twr7cx]

Quite a bit of weight up top though, when fully loaded.

Yeah there is, but there's not many ways around that besides a trailer. Obviously I don't leave all the gear on there all the time, so for generally daily use it's not too bad. The tent and awning live attached because they're a pain to remove and refit (and a pain to store in the house/garage) and I reckon if they weren't always on there, they'd be a lot of opportunities missed to use them...


Does it feel top heavy?

Yes, but not dangerously so - I'm conscious that the weight is up there and I drive accordingly - I have a V8 Falcon ute as a play car so don't feel the need to try to race a diesel 4WD! When it's loaded with weight inside the vehicle too it feels a bit better balanced. It's got a 4" suspension lift and 3" increase in tyre diamater.
Justin Cooper drove it the other day and was impressed with how well it still handles (credit goes to the stiff King Springs, Bilstain shock absorbers and the ACE).

[bob10]

How much weight do you have on the rack, please, if you don't mind me asking, and which King springs do you have? I'm considering my options, now I have arranged purchase of roof racks myself, Bob

[mistajoel]

I'm looking at getting an awning from tigerz11 just like yours, would you recommend them, quality wise?

I camp in a few windy spots, do you think they hold up to the wind ok?

Thanks :D

[juddy]

I think you have done a fantastic job...:)

[Alex 110]

quote: 100w Narva globes for a total of 400w. I'm probably going to have to do something about this though as at present the voltage drops to 11.6v at idle if they are turned on along with the standard headlights, bright beams and driving lights

You only get about 10% more light from 100w globes compared to 55w (this used to be the case, maybe new globes are brighter), reflector size is more important than watts for light output, and with your lighting setup you probably could get away with lower wattage globes.
Or even LED conversion!

Other than that, great setup - thats what I want:D:D

[Sharkee]

I think you have done a fantastic job...:)

X2:)

[twr7cx]

How much weight do you have on the rack, please, if you don't mind me asking, and which King springs do you have? I'm considering my options, now I have arranged purchase of roof racks myself, Bob

I run the King Springs EHD (Extra Heavy Duty). They're a 40mm lift and handle the weight of the bullbar, winch, snorkel, dual battery, etc. I like the current King Springs designs....

The rack fully loaded is probably around 100kg including the weight of the rack. I only load it to the point in the photographs above.

[twr7cx]

I'm looking at getting an awning from tigerz11 just like yours, would you recommend them, quality wise?

I camp in a few windy spots, do you think they hold up to the wind ok?

The maiden voyage was to The Falls Festival in Marion Bay, Tasmania. We set it up in drunkenness and forgot to peg it down. About an hour later it got picked up and moved - minor damage. Pegged it down and despite the big winds all weekend it held strong.

Quality - for the price I paid I am very happy with the quality. I have not looked at any other awnings so I can't compare it.

[twr7cx]

quote: 100w Narva globes for a total of 400w. I'm probably going to have to do something about this though as at present the voltage drops to 11.6v at idle if they are turned on along with the standard headlights, bright beams and driving lights

You only get about 10% more light from 100w globes compared to 55w (this used to be the case, maybe new globes are brighter), reflector size is more important than watts for light output, and with your lighting setup you probably could get away with lower wattage globes.
Or even LED conversion!

I don't think I want to go LED, as I believe it's not good to mix different light types - halogen, LED and HID, as the frequency and colours are different. I've been in a vehicle driving along on HID driving lights and when they've been turned off back to normal halogen driving lights, it was so hard to see as the eyes had adjusted.

What I think I will do is replace the globes in the driving lights with something like Narva Plus 120's ( http://narva.com.au/products/browse/performance-globes#anchor5 ). These are just 55w globes, but are significantly more expensive and meant to put out a lot more light (120% more). The lower w as you have pointed out should resolve the battery voltage issue.

[gavinwibrow]

twr7cx (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/twr7cx.html) quote - What I think I will do is replace the globes in the driving lights with something like Narva Plus 120's ( http://narva.com.au/products/browse/...globes#anchor5 (http://narva.com.au/products/browse/performance-globes#anchor5) ). These are just 55w globes, but are significantly more expensive and meant to put out a lot more light (120% more).

If I remember correctly, it is you that has already done the headlight relay update for D2a lights? I've put in 4 x +100% headlight upgrades as some on the site said the +120% tend to blow out fairly regularly. BUT I'VE STILL TO DO THE SWITCH/RELAY UPGRADE!!!

[malleefowl]

Would love to see some close up pics of the set up for the maxtrax please

[twr7cx]

Would love to see some close up pics of the set up for the maxtrax please

I bought the mount points from ARB. They are proper Maxitrac ones (you can find them listed on their website). Cut and welded some strips to mount them on - I think the pins can hold up to 4 Maxitracs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/999.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1000.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1001.jpg
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[Tombie]

You only get about 10% more light from 100w globes compared to 55w (this used to be the case, maybe new globes are brighter), reflector size is more important than watts for light output, and with your lighting setup you probably could get away with lower wattage globes.

On this bit... Watts mean nothing but power consumption figures and really shouldnt be used for measuring light output..

Lumen/Watt is a far better calculation... (Example only - not real figures)

If say, you have a far better Xenon bulb pulling 55w @ 30 lumen/watt you get 1650 lumen of light output

If you have a 100w bulb @ 22 lumen/watt you get 2200 lumen of light output.

Or... 33% more light for 80% more power consumption


How that light is then utilised is up to reflector / lens design

[twr7cx]

On this bit... Watts mean nothing but power consumption figures and really shouldnt be used for measuring light output..

Lumen/Watt is a far better calculation... (Example only - not real figures)

I appreciate what you are saying there, but how do you tell what the lumen/watt rating of a globe is? Narva don't list it for their sites - Performance Globes - Products - Narva (http://narva.com.au/products/browse/performance-globes#anchor5)