painting steel wheels

[harro]

I am picking up 4 D1 steel rims for my Defender and they have a bit of surface rust.
Quote for sandblasting was $30 per wheel
and I think I will paint them myself.

Any tips on how to?
And is there any special paint for rims?
Also I just want to do it with pressure packs is that OK?



Cheers,
Paul.

[steveG]

I just used spray cans of Kill-Rust hammertone on mine and they seem to be holding up pretty well.

Steve

[Landover]

I used a wire brush wheel in a drill to clean up the rust and also slightly ruffs up the surface for paint. Washed down with a solvent to remove oily residue. Then I just used those cheap export spray packs to paint. It has come up really good and lasted well on my off roading rims. If you need a better lasting finish you could use a better quality paint.

[clive22]

Hi


The film can end up being thin on those hand held spray packs so allow for a quite a few coats. Ask the blasters to keep the profile modest say average 40 microns or so.

Strip coat the edges of the steel first as the paint will naturally wick away from these.

Try to work it so you get the first coat on within a few hours, to stop flash rusting, which will occur quickly in FNQ. Why not ask the abrasive blasters to apply the first coat - usually they paint as well.

Clive

[87County]

Yep, wire brush and then use rust converter - it acts as a primer as well and gets into any crevices you can't reach with the brush...

I'd avoid the sandblasting if possible.

Cheap spraycans from the likes of Supercheap have provided a long lasting durable finish for me.

[Jojo]

When I did mine, a set of five Wolf-rims, I shot blastered them, sprayed on some etch primer and coated them with two layers of grounding (brushed on), finished with a cover coat of protective paint in matte-black. The stuff is bomb-proof (well, almost), after 5 years of abuse, only slight chipping on the edge of two rims (I think I hit a rock or similar with them).
Wire brushing will work fine and is a less messy affair. You will have to go through quite a few spray cans if you want to get the job done properly.
Cheers

[Epic_Dragon]

make sure what ever you put on you wipe rim with a degreaser first, wipe off with a dry clean cloth. An etch primer is good to use as adheres to metal well,is what it is designed for. and is a very good base for what ever paint you wish to use on the rims. From pressure packs, engine enamel is pretty good on rims, good film build and very hard wearing :)

[slug_burner]

When I did mine, a set of five Wolf-rims, I shot blastered them, sprayed on some etch primer and coated them with two layers of grounding (brushed on), finished with a cover coat of protective paint in matte-black. The stuff is bomb-proof (well, almost), after 5 years of abuse, only slight chipping on the edge of two rims (I think I hit a rock or similar with them).
Wire brushing will work fine and is a less messy affair. You will have to go through quite a few spray cans if you want to get the job done properly.
Cheers

OK, I'll bite! What is grounding?

[Jojo]

OK, I'll bite! What is grounding?

A filler-type layer of paint, not necessarily in the final colour.

[Xtreme]

I've found that the 'Primer Finisher' available in a spray can from Auto One (& probably other similar outlets) is excellent for removing any minor blemishes before final colour coats. Sometimes a few coats of the primer are required, with sanding & feathering, to fill deep scratches.

[Gumnut]

Hi,

For a really good looking, hard wearing and smart finish, I have had old wheels sand blasted and powder coated.

If the sandblaster knows they will be powder coated, he puts the first coat of chromate on.

The cost depends a bit on quantity, more for less, but it works out at about $40/wheel for blasting and chromate, and $30-40/wheel for powdercoating, with a minimum charge of about $80. I have never asked for any colour other than "sunraysia white" which seems to always be offered, but probably no reason a whole range of colours aren't available. Just ask!!

The only slight possible problem is bubbling on the older rivetted wheels in way of the lap joint, but a sharrp blade solves that possibility if required.

Of course, the tyres have to come off for this process, and that can cost a few sheckels.

Cheers,

Gumnut