Need tips on bobtailing the back of 110

[nick b]

Ok..... Picked a project to do with the teenage son.

1995 Defer 110 cab chassis. Has usual rust in rear cross member and rear of chassis and I want to reduce the departer angle. I would like to see some pics of what others have done and what they have done with:
Tank placement
Spare tyre placement (35"+)
How the chassis was finished off.
I also wantto included the towbar back into it even though it will be some what higher.

Thanks in advance.

[g2landyman]

Hi there is a DVD available called A 4X4 is Born it good the guy does similar, I got mine on EBAY:p regards G2

[nick b]

I have that dvd and watched it so may times its worn out.... woops

I have some pics and Ideas that i have kept of the years just want to see and hear a fresh look and wide variety. Not wanting to shorten the wheel base.

[g2landyman]

Cool have been thinking about doing it to my 87 110 county after I put a 130 chassis under it.:D

[nick b]

almost did that to my last 130.... now I can't help myself and have to ;)

[isuzurover]

IME the best option for departure angle is to cut off the overhang and make a new slimline rear crossmember from a piece of 75x50x4 RHS. You can incorporate a hayman reece-type receiver hitch in this (and taper the corners if you wish).

The tank will need to move to between the chassis and tray. The same with the spare (or on the tray).

[nick b]

Thanks Ben.

Was wondering how thick a RHS people had used.

[uninformed]

what about extending the wheelbase ;)

[Reads90]

When I was in the Uk last Simon Buck of Devon 4x4 lent me his winch challange 110. This has a great try back on and would be ideal thing. Something I have always wanted to do.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1217.jpg

you might notice the AULRO stubby holder on the front wing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1218.jpg

Yeah that's my ugly mug grinning from ear to ear :-)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1219.jpg

[nick b]

Yeah managed to save a few of those pics to. Couldnt find and closeup shot of the way he finished off the rear of the chassis.

Dont want the wheelbase any longer. Would like it to have a great approach and departure angles but be a stealth comp spec. Dont want it to obvious. So people take a quick look and go just a Defer. Then second look and hang on those shocks are really long etc.

[Reads90]

Yeah managed to save a few of those pics to. Couldnt find and closeup shot of the way he finished off the rear of the chassis.





Go here to Devon 4x4 web site and this has all the pictures of the build and full details of the build

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=itemlist&task=category&id=13:110-trayback&Itemid=46

Ali

[Bush65]

The minimalist methods cut the chassis to leave just the cross member in front of the 110 fuel tank then tube the tray.

For a bit more chassis, cut as above and splice in a pair of straight box section of required length to replace the section of the stock chassis rail that dips down - see pics below.

[nick b]

This has helped great guys. I know I could just chop the back and then make the tray and be done with it but plenty have gone before me and It pays to learn from their mistakes and successes. good to read the builds and see build shots.

[Sitec]

Don't chop it... Just lift it by 40mm at the rear, 75mm at the front and sit it on 285's.... Worked with my 130. No longer looks long and bulky, and making it sit higher and level disguises the larger boots! See attached pic...

[Ausfender]

I have just done this with my 93 110. Th fuel tank i completely removed and i have a 140lt tank out of a john deere header of all things mounted behind the cab . i designed my tray based on the devon4x4 tray.
As for the bobtail i have 5mm plate laser cut into shape about 300mm from the cross member. tow bar was incorperated into this as well as a winch mounted into the 300mm section for the rear. I will try to get some pictures for you of what I did as I photographed the whole process when I made it.
If you are running the standard fuel tank it would need to be moved under the tray towards the cab. good for weight distribution anyway :), I do have a spare john deere tank if you PM me

[Sitec]

Pictures please Ausfender! Always keen to see others handy work!

[nick b]

Ok bobtailing has been done...

we are about to start welding the rear tray, front shock mounts, sliders and basic but snug fitting cage.

Does anyone know what spring rate the Devon 4x4 110 was running in the back?

Am considering using County lifted springs not defender ones so that is softer in the back as it doesnt have a tank etc sitting way behind the rear diff.

Tank know sits above the rear diff and slightly forward, spare will be in same location as the Devon truck.

[nick b]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66397&stc=1&d=1380513068

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66398&stc=1&d=1380513068

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66399&stc=1&d=1380513068

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66400&stc=1&d=1380513068

the project so far..

[nick b]

We have now swapped the replacement front axle assembly in and fitted soft lifted front King Coils but we can't start making the front bar/tray and other goodies until we can borrow someones MIG welder. The young teenagers seem to like learning how to weld and welding more than getting covered in grease and oil swapping axles :angel:

[lokka]

Don't chop it... Just lift it by 40mm at the rear, 75mm at the front and sit it on 285's.... Worked with my 130. No longer looks long and bulky, and making it sit higher and level disguises the larger boots! See attached pic...


Well done looks very practical :D

[MacFamily]

Looks good Nick.

I'm still in the process of refurbishing those rear doors I bought off you months ago, have them deskinned and replaced most of the rust. I have a habit of starting a new project before finishing another :D

It's hard to believe that this was once outlaws old 110 doublecab, the defender has taken on many modifications.

[nick b]

Yeah its good to see the truck brought back from the dead. It was originally bought to do with our son but he had some issues and lived away for 7 months so it became a project to teach teenagers and teenagers at heart skills and the every old truck and everybody deserves a second chance. It has been nicked name the Project Redemption Land Rover. And everyone from 12 year old teenagers to Adult Apprentices needing or wanting to add new skills have worked on it. The rear diff assembly was saved then stuffed and then saved again due to one thinking a 1/2" extension drive could be used to knock out jammed snapped half shaft.

Half the chassis has been repaired, replaced or strengthened to engineers recommendations. But all the parts from the old EVL44 and 1 Ton/SAS Spec defender parts have been donated/swapped/bought at little or no cost. We will have to use the standard Defender front diff assembly until we get a complete Salisbury front axle, BUT she will be Brought back to the land of the living.

If enough people are interested I can post more of the build in progress.

[nick b]

money from the doors paid for the front shocks BTW Aaron. We appreciate you buying them to help the project.

[lndrvrboy]

awesome build im keen to see the bar work and tray. thinking about making a new front bar for my 110

[flagg]

Hi Nick,

Looks great. You should put a thread in the projects subforum!

[noogie]

When I was in the Uk last Simon Buck of Devon 4x4 lent me his winch challange 110. This has a great try back on and would be ideal thing. Something I have always wanted to do.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1217.jpg

you might notice the AULRO stubby holder on the front wing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1218.jpg

Yeah that's my ugly mug grinning from ear to ear :-)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1219.jpg

I want one of those for Xmas please santa.

[nick b]

A couple of before and during shots...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66507&stc=1&d=1380778119

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66508&stc=1&d=1380778119

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66509&stc=1&d=1380778119

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66510&stc=1&d=1380778119

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66511&stc=1&d=1380778119

[nick b]

During rear bobtailing and reconstruction and rust removal

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66512&stc=1&d=1380778454

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66513&stc=1&d=1380778454

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66514&stc=1&d=1380778454

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66515&stc=1&d=1380778454

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66516&stc=1&d=1380778454

[nick b]

Finishing up rear..
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66517&stc=1&d=1380778740

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66518&stc=1&d=1380778740

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66519&stc=1&d=1380778740

[nick b]

<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=340985496019785" width="568" height="320" frameborder="0"></iframe>

time lapse of rear chassis chop (hope it works).

[nick b]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=526930744091925&set=gm.727334817286719&type=1https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=530876130364053&set=gm.731099676910233&type=1
Test

[flagg]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1614535_530876130364053_250404088_o.jpg

fixed :)

[nick b]

Testing brakes on The Redemption Land Rover Build - YouTube

Reversing in after brake test Redemption Land Rover Build - YouTube

Got the ignition working (just replaced it with a new key and ignition panel assembly) and Fitted Superflex Arms and Rear heavy duty test arms. Will fit front Double Cardan Prop Shaft once Ben from APT Fab comes up with a solution for adapter.

Break test was Just before the Arms where fitted.

[uninformed]

You can just fit a Disco 2 output flange on the Tcase, then a D2 front propshaft bolts straight in.

Or, Tom Woods makes very good bolt in DC front propshafts (much better than the LR units)

[nick b]

The Double Cardan Kit APT does normally fit straight in using the supplied adapter but the holes in the one I received are not seeming to be the correct size. Ben will take some pics and measurements tonight of his setup to check against. It may just be the wrong Drill bit was used on this adapter.