Steering Drop Arm Fail

[manic]

Alright so I failed to get the steering drop arm off.

I've put this job off for months because I' knew it would be a pain to get off. I used a puller and whacked down on the lugs with an extension and hammer, used leverage, a smidge of heat - every thing I could think of given the tools at my disposal...

I measured the gap between the arm and the steering box before I started so I know that after all my efforts it hasn't budged a mm!

My puller is a piece of ebay crap, it kept slipping off the lugs - waste of money! :mad:

I don't want to cut it because I can see myself damaging the shaft with only a dremel to work with. Looks like I will have to go to a proper mechanic and ask them to put my new drop arm on .... oh the shame. :spudnikbeanie:

That is unless any one around Melbourne has a proven puller for the drop arm I can borrow?

[460cixy]

A better puller may help but there well known to be very tight yet others I have come across the nuts been loose and the arm was about to fall off of its own accord :eek:

[nedflanders]

They are a nightmare, if the steering box is off it makes it easier but I have cut the things off before, use an angle grinder and very carefully cut but make sure you don't cut all the way through,a good smack with a hammer and chisel should then split it where you've cut and loosen it off. Good luck :(

[camel_landy]

I feel your pain...

I tried to do mine last year but even the hydraulic one I borrowed from work wouldn't shift it!!! In the end, we ended up grinding out the cup for the ball joint in situ.

M

[manic]

OK thanks, so considering


this is clearly a job to loath
failure is likely even with a good puller
I can feel all the muscles in my back from trying to get that blasted thing off

I'm gonna call it quits, do the nut back up and get on with something else.

Next proper drive will be up to Melrose end of March so at some point before then I'll book it in for the drop arm and ask them to give the rover a good look over. This is one job I won't mind paying for.

[grover69]

Don't see the problem I do them almost everyday and without a puller ,try a little heat and a small hammer it should just fall off

[eddy]

If you are only taking the drop arm off to replace the ball joint ,it can be rebuilt in situ Drop arm ball joint renewal - Land Rover Zone (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html) or this one http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint/draglinkbj/index.htm

[uninformed]

when I did my steering box the new one came with arm.....so I didnt need my old one, but figured id have a go for practice....seems when the old box literally fell out of the truck onto the concrete driveway it was enough that when I undid the nut i could lift the drop arm off with one hand


bloody murphy :mad:

[FFR]

Hi,

I tried mine with an hydraulic puller... with no success.

I ended grinding the arm with a great care. A bit of grinding, then tried pulling. It finally came off with a loud bang. The arm, the puller... everything flew over the workbench.

Do not recommend hammering unless you are going to change the steering box sleeve bearings and seal.

I think I have a couple of photos of the cut. It was not a complete cut because the arm gave up thanks to the puller. Maybe the heat generated by the cutting disc helped a bit.

[DT-P38]

Alright so I failed to get the steering drop arm off.

I've put this job off for months because I' knew it would be a pain to get off. I used a puller and whacked down on the lugs with an extension and hammer, used leverage, a smidge of heat - every thing I could think of given the tools at my disposal...

I measured the gap between the arm and the steering box before I started so I know that after all my efforts it hasn't budged a mm!

My puller is a piece of ebay crap, it kept slipping off the lugs - waste of money! :mad:

I don't want to cut it because I can see myself damaging the shaft with only a dremel to work with. Looks like I will have to go to a proper mechanic and ask them to put my new drop arm on .... oh the shame. :spudnikbeanie:

That is unless any one around Melbourne has a proven puller for the drop arm I can borrow?

I bought and used a Stanley brand pitman arm puller on my V8 County 110 steering drop arm late last year. From memory it was stubborn and needed encouragement but did eventually pop (err bang) off. You are welcome to a loan of the puller. PM me if you like.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

they are very tight......we used to use a 10 tonne hydraulic puller wound up as hard as possible......then had to give it a bit of persuasion with a big hammer....

used to pop off like a gunshot when it finally let go.....!


the puller im talking about was very similar to this.......... http://techno.com.my/online/index.php'main_page=product_info&cPath=48&products_id=930

[BilboBoggles]

I seem to recall that when I had to do this someone recommended a two sledge hammer approach. Rest one on the opposite side - preferably a bigger one. and then give it a belt with the lighter one on the other side. The large one on the other side is to absorb some of the impact and avoids damaging the sector shaft. You are trying to get the drop arm mounting hole to deflect slightly which will cause it to move down the taper. I had a puller mounted and tightened as far as it would go then a couple of rather gentle smacks and it exploded off. Not sure how trustworthy that advice is though.

[landcol]

just a quick question, is the worn drop arm making horrible squeeking noises when turning the wheel, parking etc? As im about to do this job because of suspected drop arm being the cause. Want to make sure its definitely the cause!

[manic]

just a quick question, is the worn drop arm making horrible squeeking noises when turning the wheel, parking etc? As im about to do this job because of suspected drop arm being the cause. Want to make sure its definitely the cause!

No squeeking. I'm replacing it because it was flagged on a roadworthy. The only noticeable issue I have is vague steering, but play is probably in the joint and not in the splines of the arm - otherwise it wouldn't be so damn hard to get off! I have a new arm complete with the joint so I may as well change the whole thing - if possible!

[manic]

Ok yesterday I went to put all the steering linkages back on and had one last go with some heat and whacking. Sometimes leaving these things overnight brings success the next day... but no it didn't budge so its all back together now and I have moved onto other jobs.

I wont need the rover until April so I'm getting a few jobs done, taking off the wings, dropping the fuel tank and fixing the things I break along the way. When all done I may take up DT-P38's offer and borrow a puller and have another go or just book it in if reasonable price.

Thanks

[rick130]

As mentioned, you can replace the ball joint in situ.

[manic]

As mentioned, you can replace the ball joint in situ.

Yeah i know, I should have just got a joint replacement kit but I thought the arm was worn because there is play between top of steering box and movement of the arm. It now looks like the play is in the box because the blasted arm is clearly fused solid. Anyway I have a new arm with joint so ideally I would like to put it on - but yes just moving the joint over is an option.

Anyone else not receiving their reply notification via email? Mine stopped a few days ago. Nothing in my spam folders. All my subscriptions are still active.

[rick130]

Anyone else not receiving their reply notification via email? Mine stopped a few days ago. Nothing in my spam folders. All my subscriptions are still active.


Same here, and bummer re the arm.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

you can adjust up the free play if you know what you are doing.....there is an adjusting screw on top of the steering box......

but its not gonna help a worn ball joint.....

[DEFENDERZOOK]

I seem to recall that when I had to do this someone recommended a two sledge hammer approach. Rest one on the opposite side - preferably a bigger one. and then give it a belt with the lighter one on the other side. The large one on the other side is to absorb some of the impact and avoids damaging the sector shaft. You are trying to get the drop arm mounting hole to deflect slightly which will cause it to move down the taper. I had a puller mounted and tightened as far as it would go then a couple of rather gentle smacks and it exploded off. Not sure how trustworthy that advice is though.


thats exactly how we used to do it.......with two hammers......

but never remove the nut till the arm is loose......just back it right off till the end of the threads.....this is for safety......so the arm cant fall on you.....
and also to prevent damage to the threads when.....err...if you miss with the hammer......