Today 2 Series 1 questions...

[Brad110]

What later Chrome balls are compatible with my '55 S1 86"?

All Series? any later?

What Starter motors will suit the 2 Litre petrol?

Thanks in anticipation

Brad

[Landy Smurf]

AFAIK the later s1 is the same or similar enough with 2.2a.3

[Brad110]

Will a later starter fit a 2litre?

Series 2 or 3?

Defender/ Disco RR ?

[Timj]

Chrome balls are compatible all the way through. 80" were slightly different but from 86" on they all were the size to fit the universal joint inside. They are available as a whole kit in the UK (DLS landrover on ebay have them) that includes the conversion to railko bush on the top rather than the brass cone bush or just the ball itself.

Starter motors you would have to be careful of the fact that the 2 litre motor probably does not have the same starter as the 2.25 (bellhousing is different I believe). Also the 2 litre would originally have been positive earth.

Cheers,

TimJ.

[JDNSW]

........ Also the 2 litre would originally have been positive earth.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Polarity is irrelevant for starter motors. For example, changing from positive to negative earth on Series Landrovers requires only changing the battery connections, repolarising the generator, and, pre-1967, reversing ammeter connections. No action required for starters.

But I don't know whether the Series 1 motor starter is interchangeable with Series 2/3.

John

[Landy Smurf]

yes the bellhousing is different from s1-s2/2a/3. the bellhousing on the later series has a bigger space for the starter motor so that does make me think they are probably different

[Lost Landy]

I know that the starter motor from a series 2A with a 2.6 petrol fits the later series 1 full flow 2 litre motor :D

[Drew Parker]

Tim - if switching an 80" over to newer swivels with raiko bushing - is there any implication with the outer housing or is that interchangable?
Thanks drew

[Timj]

Hi Drew,

Series 1 and half way through Series 2 had the steering arm on the top of the housing so the pin for the bush is pressed into the arm. You have to replace the pin with the one in the kit which means you probably need a press. I don't think it would be possible with a hammer but might just be with a big vice used as a press. The earlier pin was splined to hold the brass bush at the right orientation. It's much easier to put bottom bearings and the bush housing in with a press anyway.

Cheers,

TimJ

[Timj]

Also there are differences with the size of the threaded studs between early housings and later but I think that may have been when the arm was moved to the bottom of the housing. It's critical to make sure they are the right ones or the arm can move or come loose enough to break the studs.

TimJ.

[Drew Parker]

Thanks Tim.
As I have a set of the brass bushes in stock I'll probably go that way, but just wanted to be sure that the S1 swivels available on the market will fit.
In the past I have used both gear oil and liquid grease in the swivels of the various LRs in my life, but see that the kits from UK have grease packs. Any guidance?
Cheers
Drew

[Timj]

Hi Drew,

Wether it is a Railko bush or the brass bush it has to be lubricated, this is done by the universal joint throwing oil up on to the bush when you are driving along. So personally I would always use oil, solid grease is a definite no, the fluid grease that comes in the pouches is a maybe, it is used on later vehicles without apparent problems and there are many who use it. This is also why you should not leave free wheeling hubs unlocked all the time, if the axles are not spinning then no oil get's thrown up.

Cheers,

TimJ.