98 110 Brake Calipers

[uninformed]

hey all, I have some brake calipers in my parts bin that I want to confirm are the correct type for my vehicle. This way I can rebuild them and do a change over rather than having the ones off my car and rebuilding refitting all in one day.

Vehicle is 1998 300tdi 110 C/Chassis (vented front rotor, solid rear)

Front:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/56525d1360395096-98-110-brake-calipers-caliper-001.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56526&d=1360395122

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/56527d1360395148-98-110-brake-calipers-caliper-002.jpg

[uninformed]

Rear:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56528&d=1360395436

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56529&d=1360395463

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=56530&d=1360395493

[justinc]

Serge, pics for the rear didn't turn out, but yes those are front Dfender calipers, the Disco ones aren't vented, and the vented RRC ones have twin brake hoses entering the caliper body on an angle.

JC

[Marshall]

Yep, defender.

[uninformed]

Thanks JC,

rear pics should be there now.

I did some googling because I figured that there could be some similar but different LR calipers (eg 110 Front, solid disc not vented etc) and since I got these sent to me ages ago from a wreckers I wanted to be sure. I had only the ones on my truck to go off and unless they are in my hand I wasnt sure of any subtle differences.

Googleing casting number 3247-683C gave me this page:

Landrover Defender 1983 - Today 4 Cyl Petrol - 110 W/Base Front Brake Parts (http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d7648.html)

seems as that casting number was used for different 110 calipers on the same side (R or L). But as you scroll down you can see the differences, ie the pin/hole dia, the space for the pads. I threw my verniers on them and the seem good (7mm pin hole dia and 63mm pad gap) The other thing that confirms is the other casting number, LB 10 TY 016 AC, which on that link says its after 1993 + vented and thats the OEM number.

So should be good to go right?

If I have the correct calipers front and rear, is it true that the pistons and seals are the same? so in essence, I only need 3 kits, 1 each front and 1 for both rears?

[uninformed]

Just to be clear guys, and for others reading, the 110s/Defenders from 1986-1993 had a different caliper to suit solid (non-vented) rotor. Correct?

[justinc]

Just to be clear guys, and for others reading, the 110s/Defenders from 1986-1993 had a different caliper to suit solid (non-vented) rotor. Correct?

yes, different pistons and pads also.
they look to be the correct rears, too.
jc

[uninformed]

Just to add to this, I have been quoted the following prices etc

Protex front stock rotor $65ea
Bendex brake pads front full set L+R $90

And this is the cailper rebuild kit im looking at:

Shop 4 Auto Parts | C/PISTON REPAIR KIT STAINLESS 46MM 4 POT CALIPER SET (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/stc1280st-c-piston-repair-kit-stainless.html)

Looks like it is made by EAC in the UK??

Any thoughts on those prices or quality of brands?
Any reason not to use stainless pistons?

Are there any special tools required to rebuild the calipers?

[justinc]

main thing is don't split the calipers, use gentle compressed air to push pistons nearly all the way out, then grab with pliers and remove. Thorough cleaning with brake clean and compressed air, use either rubber grease (my usual way) or brake fluid to reassemble the inner seals and outer dust seal. Pistons should push in by hand, if not you have done something wrong:D

They are easy peasy except for fitting the outer dust boot retaining ring, which can be a fiddle:)

Those prices are cheap, there is no way for retail or wholesale stores with a shopfront than can compete with that. I can't even buy them from my suppliers for that, so trying to make a profit from the parts component of a job now is becoming harder and harder...:(

JC

[uninformed]

thanks JC,

the rotor and pads are quoted from my local, around the corner, brake guy. The caliper kit is obviously from the UK and that is pounds, so have the conversion + shipping...

I just quickly read RAVE, not that im going to, but what is the concern with splitting the calipers apart. (would have been the first place I started)

Do bores get damaged? If I want to reduce the amount of brake clean I use when giving the whole thing its intial clean, is petrol ok? Im assuming after a good clean and then brake clean it be ok? Or would I be better using hot soapy water in a big tub.

Im a bit anal when it comes to cleaning things. I figure you clean the whole thing rather than just the moving parts, otherwise you touch the dirty parts when assembling...

[justinc]

splitting the caliper body is unnecessary unless the seals are leaking, which they might after a petrol cleaning...:o, I would use a scotch brite and a strong detergent (Truckwash?) in hot soapy water and/ or brake cleaner.

The only issue you will have is obtaining the correct gallery seals, there are a few different types.

The bores of the caliper body aren't really critical, the piston should freely float on the seals and not be scraping the bore anyway.

As long as there aren't any flaky rusty bits in there (I'd be very worried if there WAS) then just give them a good clean.

Brake cleaner and compressed air are your best friends, along with a clean environment and rags.

JC

[uninformed]

what are the gallery seals? where do they go?

[rick130]

Ditto everything JC said (as if I'd contradict him :D) and if the bores do need a lick up, again truckwash rather than brake fluid for the honing fluid.

Gallery seals I'm guessing are the divider plate O rings which I've heard are near unobtanium hence why the halves shouldn't be split ?

You'd think there's be a Viton O ring available somewhere the right size ?



Talking O rings and getting miles OT, A######s charged me $190+ trade for an automotive a/c master O ring kit on Thursday :o
1l of syn compressor oil, $69+ :o

My fault for just saying "I need xyz, please send"

I hate auto a/c, maybe it's a sign :D

The JAS rep came through on Friday and sold me the same physical size kit with at least 3X the O rings including the GM ones I wanted for $69 incl.
Actrol sent me a 1l bottle of the same syn oil, $39.

Needless to say the other parcel has been sent back for a credit.

[justinc]

Hey! I make mistakes too you know Rick:o:D

The gallery seals are the O rings between the spacer plates and caliper halves. They are a square section rubber ring, and there are a few different sizes etc. Best to not go there...


JC

[LowRanger]

Serg.
The only problems with a lot of the caliper kits that are sold,is that some of the seals are slightly different,and whenyou try and fit thing together,that is where the fun can begin:D A lot of the dust boots and retaining rings,don't seem to fit properly also.I tend to try and use Lockheed or Genuine kits only these days,as I know they will work first time and save a lot of inconvenience have to go back out and source replacement parts for seals that "don't quite fit";)

[uninformed]

Is it just the seals etc or is it the pistons also? The place im getting the parts quoted, I think its about 12 quid per piston??? and that doesnt include seals..or 36 for a full stainless kit 4 pistons and seals.

Im thinking ill take the punt being that the stuff is made in the UK. Alternativly, do you have a good sorce for the genuine stuff?

[LowRanger]

Serg
The pistons are usually ok,I don't think that stainless pistons warrant the extra cost.
Genuine kits from Land Rover are not that expensive,and you know that they will fit.
Or you can try some of the brake places for Lockheed kits.
When you see a quality kit and the seals in them and see one of the other kits and the seals in them,you see why they don't work.

[LowRanger]

Serg

I have a few EAC kits and pistons here as well as a Lockheed kit,and looking at and feeling the seals,you can feel the difference in the quality of the seals.
Having said that,I know the local LR guy uses the EAC kits and he says he has no problems with them.

You can buy the EAC kits here in Aust. from British Motor Imports British Motor Imports Pty Ltd - HOME (http://www.lrparts.com.au/)

[LowRanger]

Just to add to this, I have been quoted the following prices etc

Protex front stock rotor $65ea
Bendex brake pads front full set L+R $90

And this is the cailper rebuild kit im looking at:

Shop 4 Auto Parts | C/PISTON REPAIR KIT STAINLESS 46MM 4 POT CALIPER SET (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/stc1280st-c-piston-repair-kit-stainless.html)

Looks like it is made by EAC in the UK??

Any thoughts on those prices or quality of brands?
Any reason not to use stainless pistons?

Are there any special tools required to rebuild the calipers?

Just another small thing,the boxes have stickers on them saying that the EAC kits are made in the E.U. and not the U.K. so could be made in a number of places.But the boxes have "England" written all over them.

[uninformed]

thanks for the good info Wayne.

Problem I usually have when trying to impliment this info into reality is you go or call a retailer, and they say we only carry brand x and brand y....and very little of that is genuine or even OEM.

Of coarse there is the local dealer....and I know I should find out a price, but they are usaully good for making feel the pauper.

Where do you usually by your genuine stuff, and do you have the lockheed part #s for what I need? You can PM me if you dont want to post here.

EDIT: ah yes, I see it is EAC England, not EAC made in England ;)

[LowRanger]

Serg.

PM sent

[LowRanger]

Serg.

Here is a link you may find interesting:-

Can you spot the genuine caliper seals? - Defender Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=71627)

[uninformed]

Looks like the EAC kit seals were ok and better than the non-genuine no name stuff that got sent as a mix up. Its almost worth buying the EAC kit just for the pistons and sourcing the seal kits.

Re the Lockheed comment of their seals etc being the same as LR genuine......umm I would have thought that be obvious since Lockheed make the bloody brakes :angel:

Can anyone confirm or deny if the my front pistons and seals are EXACTLY the same as the rear, all be it twice as many???

Oh and Wayne, the chances of any of the brake places on the GC having some old dusty kits sitting on the shelf is FA....not LR country here mate except for all the new Tdics getting around.

[LowRanger]

Serg

rears are the same just 2 less pistons and seals required

[uninformed]

Got my calipers stripped and soaking. Good old compressed air made "popping" the pistons out fun.....gees they make a good little "bang" I didnt think they would pop like that, so after the first piston came out, I took of one of my pluggers (thong) and placed it inbetween the pistons...a little bit of rubber dampening :D

Rears were easy. Fronts only one piston came out of each caliper. The others had to be pulled out using channel lock multi grips around the outside of the piston. Just some twisting back and forth to break seal and then work out. I was not keeping/reusing the pistons as they were flaking so damaging them wasnt an issue.

[rick130]

Excellent, so you got them all out :)

[uninformed]

yep, just took it easy as first time doing this and didnt want to fubar them. I will have a better idea after the calipers are cleaned. I have the new stainless pistons and genuine LR seals hear ready to go....

I guess I need to know what brake fluid to use? So I use the same on assembly

[rick130]

DOT4 of whatever you can get readily.

I like to use Castrol Response Super DOT4 as it has a higher wet and dry BP than standard DOT4 fluids but I'm not that fussed if I can't get it.
I've always had a bias to Castrol with brake fluids just from when I was racing as their stuff was the standard.

In big heavy sedans including touring cars everyone used Castrol SRF, regardless of who sponsored them and I used Response in all the Formula Fords (a light car doesn't generate the brake temps of a taxi cab) and never had a fluid related problem. BTW, our callipers were AP-Lockheed too, and we always used genuine AP seal kits.
Having said that we always used Girling MC's too without issue and they're crap on a Land Rover :D

[LowRanger]

yep, just took it easy as first time doing this and didnt want to fubar them. I will have a better idea after the calipers are cleaned. I have the new stainless pistons and genuine LR seals hear ready to go....

I guess I need to know what brake fluid to use? So I use the same on assembly

Ahhhh so you bit the bullet and bought genuine seals.In my opinion a good move and the EAC pistons will be fine.Another job for me to do here as well.Will add it to the list,if it ever stops raining:mad:

[BilboBoggles]

main thing is don't split the calipers, use gentle compressed air to push pistons nearly all the way out, then grab with pliers and remove. Thorough cleaning with brake clean and compressed air, use either rubber grease (my usual way) or brake fluid to reassemble the inner seals and outer dust seal. Pistons should push in by hand, if not you have done something wrong:D

They are easy peasy except for fitting the outer dust boot retaining ring, which can be a fiddle:)

Those prices are cheap, there is no way for retail or wholesale stores with a shopfront than can compete with that. I can't even buy them from my suppliers for that, so trying to make a profit from the parts component of a job now is becoming harder and harder...:(

JC


Just one caution, they may be cheap - but are they crap. Especially on disc brakes, if you lose a seal you'll lose much of your brakes instantly. Iv'e bought some cheap kits from a parts shop here in Melbourne, a really cheap shop. I knew they were cheap, but I did not fit them, as around the same time I had a seal on a brake piston fail on one of my range rovers. I compared the cheap kit to a genuine kit, there were some differences in the quality of the shape of the seal, but more importantly the material felt different. The caliper that failed had been rebuilt by the previous owner with unknown parts.


I'd buy and use cheap parts for everything else, just not the brakes.

[uninformed]

Yes Wayne, I try and apply good advice when I can #1, afford it and #2 understand it :D

The EAC piston kit (one for the whole truck) came with seals, but even adding the Genuine LR seal kits was still cheaper than buying here in Oz, plus I got some OEM(non genuine) swivel balls to get slotted. Pin kits for the pads and a few odds and ends.

@Billo, there is cheap and there is cheap and nasty....Those EAC seals seem to have a pretty good reputation, granted not as good as genuine, but better than alot of others.

[uninformed]

Castrol Response Super DOT4 now know as Castrol React Performance DOT4

[460cixy]

I'm amazed the kits you blokes are getting don't have the Channel seals in them that's pretty poor With the calliper halves before we do anything there washed in hot water dried and sand blasted inside and out washed again dried and painted then assembled . Ibs or mcx kits should have everything you need in the kits and there good it's all we use

[uninformed]

I'm amazed the kits you blokes are getting don't have the Channel seals in them that's pretty poor With the calliper halves before we do anything there washed in hot water dried and sand blasted inside and out washed again dried and painted then assembled . Ibs or mcx kits should have everything you need in the kits and there good it's all we use

These IBS or MCX kits, are they available for LR calipers?

[460cixy]

Yeah any good brake shop should have access to them front p/n k2082s about 21.18bucks trade. Rear is p/n k453s piston dia 42.1 these are expensive for some reasion as 46.85 trade ibs and mcx part numbers are the same mcx should be cheaper we have nil stock of either p/n

[uninformed]

Well, being that its unlike me to follow the curve :D, I went ahead and seperated the cailpers. Main reason being that they have been in my parts bin for over 2 years. Periodically I remove the lid and spray the contents with inox or lanox (there are diff centers, cvs, etc in it). So there is a large chance of oil contamination. This could also explain why some of the pistons were not budging under air pressure.

My brake place is chasing part numbers and im going to take the calipers and seals into them tomorrow.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57246&d=1362055042


@460cixy, my guy was saying those IBS stuff a bit average quality wise, and the rear pistons are 46mm, not 42.1

[yt110]

The small square section seals should be 17H8764L,outside diam.approx. 12.5mm X 3mm, if the O.D. is 15mm the seal is RTC1137

The large one 3851-739 O.D.12.6mm height 13.4mm

These are the only numbers I can find,hope they help

Jim

[460cixy]

Are those pistons Bakelite or steel with a non stick type coating?

I had a feeling there were different piston sizes but I could only find a listing for the smaller piston size I don't do spares so I'm a bit rusty when it come to tracking down some parts we have no books on it it's all on the pc and some of it can be vague. I should of called the supplier but just did not have the time.

as for the ibs kits I haven't had any dramas with them or the mcx kits but we use mcx mostly on price there cheaper. Maybe your bloke had a bad run with them who knows all I can say is what I have experienced


And a note for everyone using brake kleen don't put it anywhere near brake rubbers it will swell them up believe it or not

[uninformed]

Ok, having some trouble with front gallery seals. Brake guy says most kits come with them for the solid rotors which don't have the spacer and mine require a much longer seal with tube insert.

Any idea on part#???

[460cixy]

Got a pic of the seals?

[uninformed]

Got a pic of the seals?

Post #36......that would be 4 posts above yours. The 2 small ones are the rears (1 each caliper) the 4 cylinder type are the fronts (2 each caliper) The fronts have a small metal/copper??? tube inside them.

[uninformed]

Found some info on the interweb. Funnily enough from the guys I have just recieved some parts from..DOH :D

after very-nearing my used seals, im coming up with:

Rears: RTC1137

Shop 4 Auto Parts | CALIPER GALLERY SEAL 15*3 RTC1137 (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Discovery-1/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/CALIPER_GALLERY_SEAL_15*3_.html)

Fronts: 3851-739

Shop 4 Auto Parts | CALIPER GALLERY SEAL 12,6*13,4 3851-739 (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/CALIPER_GALLERY_SEAL_12,6*13,4.html)

Now if you look at my pic, the front seals have a little tube (metal/copper?) inside them. The pic from the link shows just the outer rubber. Does anyone know if Im ment to reuse the hard tube inner?

I have shot them an email. I will report what I find.

[uninformed]

Local Land Rover dealer has no listing of the above part numbers. He could only find part# 17H8764L (after pulling up the piston seal kits and me having to say "no they are piston seal kits....yes im 100% sure, I have both genuine LR kits in my hand right now") . I told him that 17H8764L was indeed a gallery seal, but not the correct one. His response was there was no way to know without the Vin. I questioned how that is possible if thy only have one listed yet there are 3 different types......"looks like we cant help you then"

:D

[460cixy]

Well I better open my eyes better next time I thought they were pistons some have a black coating and i never took a whole lot of notice my mistake so its got normal seals plus these Shop 4 Auto Parts | CALIPER GALLERY SEAL 12,6*13,4 3851-739 (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Brakes/Discs,Calipers-&-Drums/CALIPER_GALLERY_SEAL_12,6*13,4.html) I have not seen these before but if there's a copper tube inside I would guess you re use this . I take it there calipers for a solid disc with a spacer to suit vented discs . There are ppl offering these conversions they may be able to help with these seals

[uninformed]

I think the spacer is original fittment. I got an answer on another forum to pop out and reuse the tube inside the gallery seal. I will have a closer look at the calipers mounted to my truck in the morning. They are definitely original fittment. I will be placeing an order for the seals tomorrow. Ill probably buy a few sets to have some spares. I hate having to chase up simple stuff like this. The reason the above shop doesnt supply them with a piston/caliper kit is because there are so many combinations due to LR changes. So you could have same pistons/different gallery seals etc.

[460cixy]

What a pain in the arse. Any chance of some pics of the caliper halves and said spacer

[uninformed]

hey I thought you were the brake pro :D

Looked under my LR today. Original fittment calipers, original fittment vented rotors. Calipers definitely have the spacer in them.

Caliper halves plus spacer. Spacer is same profile etc both sides:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57322&d=1362206459

Caliper loosly bolted together, showing spacers inbetween:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57323&d=1362206534

Gallery seal with inner tube removed:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57324&d=1362206636

[460cixy]

Well I can say I have seen nothing like that arrangement before normally if there's spacers like that the calliper halves will just have the recesses for the seals and the spacer sandwiched in the middle have not come across that tube&seal thing before. Only land Rover and Lockheed could come up with something like that. At least the rears are simple

[uninformed]

One half of the caliper has the recess. My guess is they (lockheed) just used the existing casting, added the spacer and designed the seal to suit. Economy of reusing existing tooling.

[460cixy]

On other calipers with spacers the holes much smaller in the spacer negating the need for that extra funny seal go well we live and learn. I'm going to make a wild assumption and guess the calipers for the solid disc has no spacers

[uninformed]

Can anyone tell me, or hazard a guess to the Torque value I should be doing the caliper bolts up to? These are the bolts that join the 2 caliper halves. They are 7/16 UNF thread. The caliper body being some sort of cast steel? I will also be using some form of loctite.

[460cixy]

Can't help with the torque I just do them up with a decent spanner or socket on a ratchet tight but not overboard I don't use loctite and haven't pulled any Down that's had it but really it couldn't hurt

[rick130]

The heat generated will probably kill Loctite, but if you are going to use it, use 272 as it has the highest temp rating of the 'undoable' ones (+200*C)

BTW, there are charts listing the appropriate bolt tension for various HT bolts in each thread/pitch.

[uninformed]

Ok, so is loctite good practice in this situation? I thought I could see some residue on the bolts?? They are grade 5 if that helps.

[rick130]

I'd use it.

Hang on, I remember now that I always did on the race cars, and they were steel bodied Lockheed's too (but twin piston)

[uninformed]

Well I finally got them back together.....All went pretty straight forward. I tried the intsall method in the seal kit instructions, that is:

install seal
install piston
install wiper seal in wiper seal ring
install wiper seal and ring to caliper

I had trouble doing this, so on the advice of a memeber here, I went:

install seal
install wiper seal in wiper seal ring
install wiper seal and ring to caliper
install piston

I used plenty of brake fluid on everything as the lube. It was very easy for me to do the ring and pistons as the calipers where halved when I did so, so access was good.

Wrong or right I tightend the grade 5, 7/16 UNF bolts to 50 ft/lb, using loctite 272.

I really hope I havent cross contaminated anything as the only way im going to know is when they are fitted up to the 110.

Some part#s that may or may not help others:

Bendix pads: DB1305/4WD (front) DB1306/4WD (rear)
gallery seals: 3851-739 (front) RTC1137 (rear)
pin/spring kits for pads: STC8575 (front) PFK1601 (rear)
Bleed screw: RTC1526

Fronts:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=65126&d=1378291327

Rears:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=65128&d=1378291421

[justinc]

good job serge:D


jc

[460cixy]

I allways fit the piston first then the dust seal but if its worked for you that's great. Biggest issue is getting the tin ring that the dust seal sits in to go in square with out bending it looks like you did fine to me

[uninformed]

I allways fit the piston first then the dust seal but if its worked for you that's great. Biggest issue is getting the tin ring that the dust seal sits in to go in square with out bending it looks like you did fine to me

I tried it your way first, as per the instructions. First go resulted in a bent ring......

[460cixy]

As I allways say there's more then one way to skin a cat . One shop I worked at for a few years used to make all the apprentices spend 6 months with each tradesman just to show them there's more than one way to get a job done right and I think it made them better tradesmen by the end of it.

[uninformed]

does anyone know if the front disc rotor from non vented fronts is the same as the disc rotor for 1998 110 tdi rear (ie all 300 tdi 110/130 rears)

Reason I ask is I found out the rotors I was supplied are wrong :mad: (mid operation) The brake shop got the book out and it only lists 99 onwards for rears. These are only 59mm tall, mine are 70mm or so.... on paper it looks like the front disc for non vented is the same????

[460cixy]

90to93 solid front rotor is the same as 94to98 rear rotor same part number in my catalogue both are rda87

[TonyC]

does anyone know if the front disc rotor from non vented fronts is the same as the disc rotor for 1998 110 tdi rear (ie all 300 tdi 110/130 rears)

Reason I ask is I found out the rotors I was supplied are wrong :mad: (mid operation) The brake shop got the book out and it only lists 99 onwards for rears. These are only 59mm tall, mine are 70mm or so.... on paper it looks like the front disc for non vented is the same????

Hi Serge,
I had this issue last week, yes it's the non vented fronts that you need for the rear. At least it was on my 95 130.

Tony

[rick130]

Serg, JC listed a few cock ups in various catalogues too, particularly the DBA one but Matt and Tony have helped you out.
Sorry, been a bit, err, fraught here, will try and ring today sometime, probably after 11:30.
Supposedly doing the windscreen first thing and then teaching.

[uninformed]

yep guys, thanks.

When I took them back the book only had the one listing, we took the punt on the older solid fronts going by the measurements. When I went back later in the day to pick them up, the guy grabs another book from his pile on the counter and low and behold they have the correct listings in it (WTF, why didnt you extend your arm earlier :mad: )

Rotors are Protex DR087 for rear. Protex DR086 for ventilated front.

I finally got the rear end done. That is all new wheel bearings, rebuilt calipers installed, new rotors, diff oil changed. So far so good, I even took it for a run last night and didnt die in a fire ball of death

[uninformed]

My brakes are squealing...BAD! :mad:

Any ideas why? Rotors are Protex, pads are Bendix. Light braking doesnt do it, but semi medium and medium (i.e. 80% of braking up to lights etc) make it happen. I even think it is happening somewhat when driving off from the lights. Hard to tell though and its no way as noticable as under braking.

[rick130]

Did you install the anti-squeal shims ?

They provide a small amount of toe in to the pad, otherwise, brake harder ! :D
How many km so far ?
They might still be bedding in if under 4-500km, and not have full pad face contact yet?

My Ferodo's do it when dusty, always have, but never when clean.

[uninformed]

AFAIK these pads come with them attached on the back of the metal plate, thin and slightly rubberised.

Yes still under 400km. When I took it for its first test drive, I did 6-10 of up to 40km/h then medium to heavy braking to try and bed them in. I have never, ever had brakes squeal on this truck in over 13 years.....then again I have never done the brakes myself before either :angel:

[rick130]

OK, thats just a rubberised backing material that's there to supposedly attenuate any high frequency vibration that creates the squeal, but the genuine shim is a thin, metal shim that has half a hole cut where the piston/s sit so that the pad sits slightly crooked (only a couple of thou) as the pad hits the disc.
This also helps stop the vibration that creates the squeal and is usually much more effective than the rubberised backing material.

Bendix 4WD pads usually have the least problems with noise, at least with the other 4WD's.
I have some TRW pads here that solve the squeals on 110/130's, just haven't bothered fitting them yet.

[460cixy]

I was going to chime in but ricks all over it like a fat kid on a muffin :p

[rick130]

I was going to chime in but ricks all over it like a fat kid on a muffin :p


Or Matt on a free beer! :lol2:

[460cixy]

Love a cold stub

[uninformed]

It was almost enough for me to get out at the lights and walk off. I got home and dug out the callipers I just removed. The brake pads had a little metal plate on the back of them. These had TRW on them and Im guessing came with the last pads that my mechanic installed. They are not like what Rick described. They would be approx 0.5mm thick, and imagine the brake pad cut in half. These had no cut out for the piston. I fitted them and no squeal. I will know 100% on monday when I have the trailer on.

Is there any reason these should not be used? Are these shims brand specific?

[rick130]

Mate, I'd just keep using them, all they do is apply toe in to the pad, that's all you need.

[460cixy]

If its shut it up keep useing it