Cooling system service - What is it?

[Trippy]

I have read several times (over and over) on this forum that it is important to make sure the cooling system is looked after, especially on the V8s. I have been searching but cannot work out exactly what this entails and when (or how often) this should be done.

I have a 1999 D2 V8 that has done almost 160,000 km now. What should I worry about?

[Road Stone]

Hi, I'll give you my experience but there are more experienced people here:BigThumb:

The big thing to reolise is your temp gauge is not to be trusted too much. On a V8 if it climbs into the red, to which you may not notice, it's probobly too late to negate serious damage.

Your temps if all is well should be between 87-88C to possibly 102C on a hot day in traffic, I get mine from Hawkeye. I think 110C is getting too hot. My max temp in traffic is 94C.

You should ensure your fans (Viscous/Condenser) are healthy and if you are unsure when it was last done flush out the cooling system and replace the 50-50 OAT anti freeze coolant.

Radiators have a track record of leaking as does the Throttle Body gasket so if you are using any coolant, check there first. Also regularly check the condition of your hoses. One oF these goes, your wallet will know about it!

The V8 cooling system is good, as long as it is healthy. Mine operates everyday in high humidity and 34C day in day out with the A/C on all the time. No issues, but I keep a very close eye on my cooling system.

Hope this helps, Jerry

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If your V8 is running at 88 then you are better off than the rest of us,, 96 is normal,,
and way too high.
The rest is spot on,,
I am going to try the grey thermostat:eek:.


what should you worry about?
all your cooling stuff is now 14 years old!
D2 rads are fairly cheap nowadays,, even from LR--;)

[Road Stone]

Hi,

Yes, according to my Hawkeye these are the temps at a steady speed above 70 kph, but rises quite quickly when slowing down but never over 94C.

I have recently put on a new condeser fan and flushed the system. Am also slowly (1 a month) changing the hoses. I would also recommend hose changes to Trippy as well, if they are looking a bit old.

Cheers, Jerry

[Trippy]

Well, I have no idea when and if things were replaced. I checked the hoses today and they seem fine to me. The return to expansion box hose has the number 2007 on it. Not sure if this is the manufacture date.

1. Is it ok to buy aftermarket hoses or should I get genuine? They are only hoses after all right?

2. And is there a way to identify how old the radiator is? Do they have manufacture dates printed on them? That way I could work out if it still has the original one or not.

3. I just topped up the coolant today and it needed about 600ml after 3 months of summer heat. Is that bad?

[alpick]

I reckon you have a small leak somewhere. Mine uses no coolant at all unless there is small leak.

Small leaks!

I had one from the hose where it joins the bottom of the expansion tank. So slight that it would evaporate due engine heat, only found by removing the tank and inspecting the area under the tank, found green stains! (Fixed by wrapping some rescue tape around the tank spout and fitting hose over the tape with new clamp.)

Also had a pin hole leak in radiator, picked up during major service at LR specialist.(new radiator)

Check other culprit areas, weep hole in water pump (check for stains) , the small hose tucked behind the turbo,

[Blknight.aus]

what gets done in a cooling system service depends on how honest your greaser is and how much your paying but from memory everything up to and including

cooling system drain, treatment with flushing agent drain flush and refil
replace thermostat
replace all the hoses + transfer pipes
remove, rod, replace/ replace the radiator
replace the expansion tank
replace the pressure cap
replace the welch plugs and core plugs
remove rod replace / replace the heater matrix
replace the radiator mounting rubbers
replace the VC
replace the fan
replace the serp belt
replace the fan bearing
remove inspect repair/replace the water pump
Clean the condenser
repair/replace the shroud
repair/replace the belt idlers and tensioners
remove/test/replace the coolant sensor(s)
replace cooling system component gaskets (but not a vally cover or head gasket)
replace cooling system threaded barbs/press barbs

[winaje]

Wow Blknight.aus... That sounds like a couple of $K to me!

[Ollie]

If you remove the the plastic cover over the radiator the bleed spigot and hose from the reservoir is revealed, on the passenger side.
It is possible to snap the plastic spigot on rads over 5 years old mine was 11yrs old when I leant on it while fitting a low coolant alarm in the top hose
Ollie

[Road Stone]

Well, I have no idea when and if things were replaced. I checked the hoses today and they seem fine to me. The return to expansion box hose has the number 2007 on it. Not sure if this is the manufacture date.

1. Is it ok to buy aftermarket hoses or should I get genuine? They are only hoses after all right?

2. And is there a way to identify how old the radiator is? Do they have manufacture dates printed on them? That way I could work out if it still has the original one or not.

3. I just topped up the coolant today and it needed about 600ml after 3 months of summer heat. Is that bad?

Hi Trippy,

I have used after market and genuine where they only exist. 600ml over 3 months does not sound too bad BUT it does suggest a leak, which will only get worse and were you are based hot temps are an issue.

Start looking for tell tale signs, coolant colour dried up around the areas already mentioned and look at the Rad, if it,s got a leak you'll see it.

Don't leave it too long!

Cheers Jerry

[Trippy]

Wow Blknight! Thanks for that extensive list. To have that done by someone else would probably be at least $3,000 right? But the list is excellent since it gives me an idea of might go wrong. I will crawl underneath the car again on the weekend and have a good look for pink stains.

[disco2_dan]

Wow Blknight! Thanks for that extensive list. To have that done by someone else would probably be at least $3,000 right? But the list is excellent since it gives me an idea of might go wrong. I will crawl underneath the car again on the weekend and have a good look for pink stains.

Nah I don't think 3000, Mabey 1000 if you can do basic stuff yourself

[Blknight.aus]

Wow Blknight! Thanks for that extensive list. To have that done by someone else would probably be at least $3,000 right? But the list is excellent since it gives me an idea of might go wrong. I will crawl underneath the car again on the weekend and have a good look for pink stains.

Last time I did one that exhaustive it was on a D1, I billed $1kish but the owner had done the hard yards of getting the dash down and out so the evaporator could be replaced. I was called in as a "while its down this far what else" kind of deal. In the bill I provided the all the parts bar the radiator and the heater matrix (we reused the matrix, it was ok and he already had a radiator)he also elected to opt in a head gasket and timing belt kit

on todays prices... I'd be budgeting about $1k in parts alone if it all needed replacing, and would expect no change from $5k if you rolled it into a good workshop and said do all that.

for a D1 you'd be looking at 2.5 days worth of work to do it all single handed if you had all the tools, a copy of the rave and the desire to get it right (none of it is all that hard)

Most places would probably only do the chemical flush, reverse flush remove inspect and rod/replace the radiator(if you're lucky) replace the hoses and still bill you $1k.

[Robgw]

I just been through this and glad I did. (2000 V8)

The Thor V8 is designed to run as hot as possible without overheating, thats where this engine is most efficient (urban myth that it's in connection with law on emissions ..apparently). So Pedro is right they run around 96 not 88. This is fine as long as the system is working well. You will notice on the temp gauge you should be up to running temp in a couple of K's due to the harder spring in the Thermostat.

The dury is out on trying lower temp stats, but i know a few mechanics who advised me not to deviate from the LR spec of for the Bosch Engine Management System. I'll go with their advice personally.

Cooling system failure leads to blow/leaking Head Gaskets and possible slipped liner. Both of these are not a design fault or weakness of the V8 design but effects of overheating a Alu Engine.

So consider :-

- Replace the thermostat
- Check all hoses and replace any which seem over hard or swollen like bike inner tubes when hot.
- Flush cooling system of course
- Check the water pump gasket and seal for leaks
- Test the viscous fan coupling (plenty of threads on this)
- Radiator flush (2 ways)

1) Take it out for a Service,( which i did.) After 13 years the report said it was 1/4 sludged up. So it was rodded out and the side tank flushed.

2) Top and bottom hose off and run water through from the top and the bottom. Wrap the hosepipe in a wet cloth to create the seal. Google "Scotty Kilmer .com" A US mechanic who will show how to do it.

Bit piece of mind once you do it as the cost of overheating can be 10x more!

[Road Stone]

I just been through this and glad I did. (2000 V8)

The Thor V8 is designed to run as hot as possible without overheating, thats where this engine is most efficient (urban myth that it's in connection with law on emissions ..apparently). So Pedro is right they run around 96 not 88. This is fine as long as the system is working well. You will notice on the temp gauge you should be up to running temp in a couple of K's due to the harder spring in the Thermostat.

The dury is out on trying lower temp stats, but i know a few mechanics who advised me not to deviate from the LR spec of for the Bosch Engine Management System. I'll go with their advice personally.

Cooling system failure leads to blow/leaking Head Gaskets and possible slipped liner. Both of these are not a design fault or weakness of the V8 design but effects of overheating a Alu Engine.

So consider :-

- Replace the thermostat
- Check all hoses and replace any which seem over hard or swollen like bike inner tubes when hot.
- Flush cooling system of course
- Check the water pump gasket and seal for leaks
- Test the viscous fan coupling (plenty of threads on this)
- Radiator flush (2 ways)

1) Take it out for a Service,( which i did.) After 13 years the report said it was 1/4 sludged up. So it was rodded out and the side tank flushed.

2) Top and bottom hose off and run water through from the top and the bottom. Wrap the hosepipe in a wet cloth to create the seal. Google "Scotty Kilmer .com" A US mechanic who will show how to do it.

Bit piece of mind once you do it as the cost of overheating can be 10x more!

IF you read my post correctly I stated it can run up to 102C.

Maybe I'm not so incorrect after all :p