Mega newb question about anderson plugs

[JamesH]

Hi All

At some stage before my next long trip in July I'm going to want a dual battery kit in my D4. I'll be getting GOE to look after the install and it will be a Traxide, with some decent gauge cable specified, I know that much but that's all I know.

What is this anderson plug thingy? I won't be towing I just want to run my Engel and my Versa light. Ive had some experience of my Engel unplugging itself over corrugations in my Defender with the standrd plug but I can't say I'm super worried. Should I specify an Anderson plug? Is it more efficient in that power loss in less? It would need a new Engel cable as I don't want to chop the existing one.

Am I over engineering and for an engel and camp light the existing plugs be fine?

Am I even asking sane questions or am I totally off on the wrong track?

[scanfor]

The Anderson plugs come in a few different sizes, from small enough to hook up your fridge to large enough to jumpstart a diesel engine.
The main advantage in them is that they are very robust, and they do offer a degree of compatability/standardisation between different bits of equipment. Also by way of clever design, they can't be connected up with the wrong polarity.

To answer one of your questions, no they offer no better electrical efficiency than any other plug that makes good contact with the base/socket.

Mine are all of the 50 Amps variety, and I have used them to hook up the rooftop solar panel to the secondary battery (so the panel can be removed from the vehicle if required), as well as to jumper between the Defender and the camper trailer so it will charge the camper trailer battery as we're travelling.

I wouldn't go changing the fridge plug you have - the Engel plugs are pretty reliable (better than cig lighter plugs anyway). My fridge is plugged into a Merit socket, and it hasn't come loose yet. The anderson would probably be overkill for the fridge.

If you do decide to use them, you'll need either a good crimping tool/swager or be able to solder the conductors into them.

[Sheppie]

I wouldnt solder the lugs - crimp them only, If you dont have a good clean solder job and or the anderson plugs contacts corrode a bit over time, you will get heat from the poor contact. This will melt your solder out and then you will be stuck somewhere with a repair job that you didnt really need to do.
Quite often you can hire, beg, borrow or steal (well maybe not steal) a crimper from an electrical wholesalers or a sparkie to crimp the lugs properly.

I had a rally car at one stage where some goose (prior me owning it) had soldered the starter cable lugs going onto the starter motor. Of course they melted off, just before an event '****'- I know this is like 600 amps not the 40 or so you will probably be set up for - but the principles are the same.

[incisor]

i use anderson plugs on everything so it is standardised thru all my vehicles.

compressors, fridges, lights, and 12v tools

makes life much less complicated when your under the pump.

[MuckUte]

I wouldn't go changing the fridge plug you have - the Engel plugs are pretty reliable (better than cig lighter plugs anyway). My fridge is plugged into a Merit socket, and it hasn't come loose yet. The anderson would probably be overkill for the fridge.


I agree, I have not had the screw lock on the engel plugs come loose. In the back of my wagon I have an engel socket, a normal cig lighter and an anderson.

[JamesH]

Crikey now I'm getting more confused. An Engel socket? I hadnt noticed the difference between and Engel plug and a normal one. They seem to plug into the standard D4 socket.

I'm not sure I understand the difference between a standard plug and a merit plug either.

Perhaps I better go somewhere and see these things in person and compare.

[THE BOOGER]

Confused about sockets and plugs click on the plugs page here:D

The 12 Volt Shop (http://www.12volt.com.au/)

dont know how far they are from you but you may be able to see them in person at their shop

[towe0609]

I'm not suggesting that crimping anderson plugs isn't the way to go, but I've always soldered them, and have nevery had a problem. A $10 butane pencil torch is all I've ever used, and I've found it great to have all my 12v connections standardised to Andersons.

If it were me I'd cut the fridge cable, solder an anderson plug on, and relax knowing that the fridge will never come undone again. While your at it, cut off all your ciggy plugs or clamps off any 12v thingy and replace with andersons - buy in bulk and save!

[101 Ron]

The true advantage of Anderson plugs is the fact the contacts are self cleaning.

[Sharkee]

Hi James
The pic with the lead is a normal 12v cig plug
The pic without the lead is a merit, the merit kind of has a knob on the end which locks into clips at the bottom of the socket to provent it loosing contact. Obviously the normal one is very susceptible to either loosing contact or getting a bad contact on rough roads and therefore creating a lot of heat at the connection which is not a good thing'
There is another one, 3rd pic, which I've always called an engel plug(not sure on exact name) which has 2 x pins that push into a socket that has ""obviously"" 2 x holes and then screws up to provent it loosing contact. I found these good also because to come undone it has to unscrew and pull out which normally speaking is not likely. Probably hard/expensive to convert all your 12v gear to this setup though.
Oh yeah I'm a big fan of ando plugs too.

Cheers Steve

[drivesafe]

The true advantage of Anderson plugs is the fact the contacts are self cleaning.

And sprung loaded so they maintain a constant contact presser over their life span.

James have a look at Anderson Power Poles. They come in different sizes from 30 amp upwards.

The 30 amp Power Poles are pretty small but leave everything else for dead.

I use them for all sorts of connecting jobs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/680.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/346.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/681.jpg

[JamesH]

Thanks everyone.

Converting is not a big deal. I'm talking two items, my Versalite and my Engel. All I'd want is a conversion lead or two back to some kind of standard fitting in case I ever wanted to use the two items in another vehicle which only had standard 12v plugs.

If it's a good idea, I'll do it. I can have two Andersons put into the back of the D4 when I get moving on this and get the leads changed on the two items.

[Tombie]

And sprung loaded so they maintain a constant contact presser over their life span.

James have a look at Anderson Power Poles. They come in different sizes from 30 amp upwards.

The 30 amp Power Poles are pretty small but leave everything else for dead.

I use them for all sorts of connecting jobs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/680.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/346.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/681.jpg

I love Power Poles :D

Got LOTS in my vehicles :)

[Bush65]

Anderson are the Rolls Royce option and far better than the rest.

Another option I've used are the Clipsal 32 volt plugs and sockets Clipsal 493/32 and 438/32
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/630.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/631.jpg
These are available from any place that sell electrical stuff. Not as good as Anderson plugs but much better than cigar lighter and a lot of other stuff.

[JamesH]

Thanks, John. That's what I used on the Defender, though with the new Engel I had a conversion plug back to a lighter socket which defeated the purpose in the end.

[numpty]

Anderson are the Rolls Royce option and far better than the rest.

Another option I've used are the Clipsal 32 volt plugs and sockets Clipsal 493/32 and 438/32
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/630.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/631.jpg
These are available from any place that sell electrical stuff. Not as good as Anderson plugs but much better than cigar lighter and a lot of other stuff.

These are what I use on all my smaller accessories (fridge, light, shower, spotlight etc) and have done for 25 years. Never had a problem with them.

Solar panels and inverters on the other hand are where the Anderson plugs come in ;)

[landoman]

I'm not suggesting that crimping anderson plugs isn't the way to go, but I've always soldered them, and have nevery had a problem. A $10 butane pencil torch is all I've ever used, and I've found it great to have all my 12v connections standardised to Andersons.

If it were me I'd cut the fridge cable, solder an anderson plug on, and relax knowing that the fridge will never come undone again. While your at it, cut off all your ciggy plugs or clamps off any 12v thingy and replace with andersons - buy in bulk and save!

I am in the process of fitting an Anderson plug to wire up my fridge in the back
I have put a plug on the wiring I fed into the back of my truck and it has red for positive and black for negative so nomprobs ........but the power cable for my Waco fridge ( the one with the pin plug on one end and the cig lighter connection
On the other ) is a twin cable with both parts black .......how do I wire to an Anderson plug when I don't know which is positive and which is negative ?

[drivesafe]

Hi Landoman, have you got a photo?

If you can still power the lead up, use a digital multi meter and measure the voltage.

If the leads are the correct way round, you will have a standard reading on the meter, EG 12.0. Your red test probe is on the positive wire.

If your leads are on the opposite wires, you will have a negative reading with the numbers starting with the minus symbol EG -12.0. Your red test probe is on the negative wire.

[landoman]

Hi Landoman, have you got a photo?

If you can still power the lead up, use a digital multi meter and measure the voltage.

If the leads are the correct way round, you will have a standard reading on the meter, EG 12.0. Your red test probe is on the positive wire.

If your leads are on the opposite wires, you will have a negative reading with the numbers starting with the minus symbol EG -12.0. Your red test probe is on the negative wire.

Unfortunately I had a rush of blood and cut off the cig lighter connector before I realised what I was doing

So now I have 2 parts .....if I wire it up wrong to test if it's reading + or- will I short things if I get it wrong .......pic attached

Ps I'm using a traxide kit to get the power to the back l...it has 30 amp inline fuse

[drivesafe]

Landoman, correct me here if I have this wrong, but does that plug go into a socket and if it is plugged in one way, the unit cools the contents, and if plugged the other way, does it warm the contents?

Or is the plug shaped such that it can only be plugged in one way?

[landoman]

It's the standard Waco fridge plug .....i think it only plugs in one way

[weeds]

Are you sure there are no marking on either of the wires on the lead.......most lead have some sort of marking on one of the insulation around one of the wires.....

The one marked is generally the positive.

[Bushie]

Run you hand along the lead - the negative has a ridge running along the other (+ve) will be smooth.

From memory the fridge is polarity protected, if you connect the wrong way it won't run, but won't do any damage.

Martyn

[landoman]

Are you sure there are no marking on either of the wires on the lead.......most lead have some sort of marking on one of the insulation around one of the wires.....

The one marked is generally the positive.

Thanks .....no clear positive or negative markings
But one of the cables does have continuous small writing marking ...300 volts
15 AWG .........the other has no markings .....so I'll wire the writing one to the positive on the Anderson ..........if I was wrong would I damage the fridge or just blow a fuse

[landoman]

Run you hand along the lead - the negative has a ridge running along the other (+ve) will be smooth.

From memory the fridge is polarity protected, if you connect the wrong way it won't run, but won't do any damage.

Martyn

Yes ......one with a ridge ....one smooth ....the smooth one has the marking
(Very small embossing 300 v 15 AWG ...........so looks like we have it ....great !
......whocouldaknowdit!! ...........and good to know no prob if I had wired it wrong ......but better to safe than I blow up my expensive Waco

Much appreciated

[Blknight.aus]

Unfortunately I had a rush of blood and cut off the cig lighter connector before I realised what I was doing

So now I have 2 parts .....if I wire it up wrong to test if it's reading + or- will I short things if I get it wrong .......pic attached

Ps I'm using a traxide kit to get the power to the back l...it has 30 amp inline fuse

did you cut the wire dead square, if you havent messed with it too much on fig 8 wire its not too hard to work out which wire connected to which one.

if you need an example of what you're looking at mark one of the wires with a paint pen or marking pen about 3 inches from where you've split them and then cut through the mark place the wires next to each other and you will see that one side will have a "pinch" mark on it look for the same marking on the existing cut, mark the wires and then pick your polarity by going from the edge connector on the cig/merit socket you have to either of the wires from its end. the one that make your meter beep or swing to 0 ohm (near enough) on resistance is the negative wire.

first checks first.

if its not an all plastic fridge, connect your multimeter on its connectivity setting to the metal and then to one then the other of the sockets pins.

the one that beeps is negative.

IF you have a waco that is all plastic but has both 240 and 12/24v sockets on it put your meter onto the earth pin and then pick one of the 2 12/24v pins, the one that beeps on continutity is your negative wire.



if your waco is one that has both heating and cooling its not a compressor driven unit and is a peltier cooler device. the polarity wont matter for it plug it in and if when you put it onto cooling mode the exchanger plate gets hot in the inside then you have the polarity backwards.

according to the manual for the following waco models CF- 18, 25, 35, 40, 50, 80, 110 its polarity protected so....

put a 5 amp fuse inline (for the 18) or a 7.5 amp fuse for the rest of them and hook it up. if it pops the fuse reverse the polarity, put in a new fuse and you should be good to go.

The waco connector appears to be proprietry and doesnt appear on any of my connector charts.

[PhilipA]

I think it is worth saying again that IMHO ,Anderson plugs are not the best solution for a connection to a camper trailer as they do not have a positive lock like a trailer plug.
I met a bloke camped next to me at Mornington Wildlife sanctuary on the GRR who had no fridge as his grey Anderson had pulled out after hitting something maybe grass on the track in and the loose one had then self destructed.

Supercheap sell a 50 amp two pin with a positive flap lock like a trailer plug.

Luckily I had a spare grey Anderson and was able to get him going again and got a nice bottle of wine for my trouble.

I use grey Andersons for my inverter and compressor and Merits for all > 20 amp applications. I also have a 175Amp Anderson on the back bumper connected to a 0 gauge (Warn supplied) to the battery to run my Warn 6000Lb portable winch from the back.
For low amp applications including the fridge I find Merits are great as the socket is panel mounted or can be surface mounted with a little adaptor. This alleviates the problem with Andersons where you have loose wires trailing around.
Regards Philip A

[Tins]

I think it is worth saying again that IMHO ,Anderson plugs are not the best solution for a connection to a camper trailer as they do not have a positive lock like a trailer plug.
A

I trust you're talking about flat trailer plugs, and not the round 5 or 7 pin ones. The round ones are the bane of my existence. They are used to connect the prime mover to the A trailer, and to then connect the A to the B. They are the most poorly designed plug there is. I often find I'm running with one dark trailer, and in my game I can tell you that can attract attention of the kind I don't want. The things should be banned.

As for Andersons coming unplugged, zip ties are cheap.