D2 key hard to get into ignition barrel (sometimes)

[Sharkee]

Now and then its very hard to insert the key into the ignition on my D2, I remember seeing a thread on this awhile ago and what to do to remedy it. I searched the AULRO search at the bottom and maybe I need glasses but couldn't find it. Has anyone got the link to it please as I need to ""lube"" it or whatever to free it up. It doesn't happen often but is very annoying when it does it.
Thanks
Steve

[DiscoKym]

As far as I know graphite powder is the only & best Lube for keys/locks.

A good place to start.

Sorry I can't help about the previous post.. :(

[justinc]

Definitely graphite powder, ONLY.

JC

[Sharkee]

I thought that might be stuff to use. So just squirt some in the lock?
Thanks to you both for replies
Cheers Steve

[alpick]

You most likely have the beginnings of the "sticky wafer" syndrome , search that and there is a bunch of stuff on it.

One day the barrel will let you down and seize up, as always in the most inconvenient place.

Replace you d2 barrel with a new D1 barrel, same fit much cheaper. There is a tute on here somewhere on how to do it.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/136200-discovery-_2-ignition-replacement.html

My pet locksmith uses "INOX" to lube ignition barrels.


Cheers

[DiscoDazza]

D2 ignition barrels......lovely things, your options are as said, replace with the earlier model one, std D2 type via online shopping around or if you have some time up your sleeve as I did, remove the unit, strip it down, give it a good clean out and remove the ball bearing that locks the key into position, I found it was causing mine to jam up, once removed the key had no problems with sticking again, now if you are wondering why its their in the first place.....its to apply holding pressure to the key so it wont fall out...I think!!, but what I found is that once the key is inserted and turned it doesnt fall out anyway, it's locked in until you turn the ignition off fully, just dont hang too many other keys or trinkets off the ignition key as its will prematurally wear the barrel out.:D

[Sharkee]

Thanks Al & Dazza I will try some powder first and if that doesn't work then look at the other option.
Thanks Steve

[s7000]

Funnily enough, graphite powder made it worse for me!

My barrel hates to turn sometimes, however with a few knocks to the key in the ignition it all falls into place.

If it gets too bad I'll replace what I need to. :)

[Gullible]

Now and then its very hard to insert the key into the ignition on my D2, I remember seeing a thread on this awhile ago and what to do to remedy it. I searched the AULRO search at the bottom and maybe I need glasses but couldn't find it. Has anyone got the link to it please as I need to ""lube"" it or whatever to free it up. It doesn't happen often but is very annoying when it does it.
Thanks
Steve

I have a similar issue.

My key is a pain to insert one way up and no problems the other way up.

I put a dot of whiteout on the fob to let me know which way worked the best.

End of problem.

[Tombie]

I second INOX

[worane]

Yes to Inox.
Locksmith told me that they ONLY use Inox these days.
My td5 1999 d2 was very difficult to get the key into when I bought it. One good squirt of Inox and the problem went away.

[Sharkee]

Inox? where would I get that and do I just ask for Inox lubricant?

Thanks Steve

[schuy1]

Hey Sharkee ,Inox is available at SuperCheap :) and most good hardware/ auto places . There are the 2 types standart grade , Food grade, if you feel like eating of the key :D and they do a lanotec protective spray which is Lanolin based . Good for the fishing and shooting gear. Just be warned , a little goes a looong way :D

Cheers Scott

[greg-g]

Mine was getting very sticky, I carefully pulled it apart freed up the sticky wafers, removed a problem one, lathed a new pin after drilling the original and its been fine since.
Its not difficult if done with care.

[DougLD]

Hi All
Had a similar problem a few years back I removed the barrel and sprayed it with CRC contact cleaner it has been ok ever since I really did flush it out used about half a can on it but it worked well. I think there may be other threads on the subject if you search for them
Regards
Doug

[Rick Fischer]

After playing the D1 and D2 ign key dance a few times, ended up taking out all the wafers the spring and ball and the steering lock. Lock has to come out because if key comes out, steering locks :) Never had any sort of key problem after that.

Key :) to preventing the problem all together is to only use the ign key from new and hang nothing off of it. As someone did say to me " its an ignition switch not a key hanger!"

Security is not a problem because of the smart key and ECU link.

Cheers

[bsperka]

Is this the product that you are all talking about? I use dry film lubricant (CRC) on all of the locks that cause problems around the home - this INOX product seems to be similar. Product use on their website seems to indicate it's what you guys are referring to.

I used to only use graphite dust and still have half a bottle somewhere, but its so messy compared to this product, and takes some work sometimes to get into place. Just make sure its a dry film lubricant, not a wet lubricant, like WD, silicon spray etc.

[Sharkee]

Thanks guys I haven't had a chance to get it yet but I will. Will let ya know!

[whitedisco]

Hi Sharkee and everyone else
I have been lurking for a while and this is the first time I have something new to add such is the level of expertise around here.
I had a D2 TD5 for about 5 years – now D3- love it and yes it is white also.
I used a different approach you may like to consider.
Soon after I got the D2 second hand I bought a new key fob and had the blank cut at a locksmith on Goodwood Rd (Adelaide). He knew the LR product and the D2s barrel problems. I was finding it difficult to insert the key. He suggested a plain key – no pod – cut the same as the other keys to be left in the barrel at all times so there is no wear due to the key going in and out. I put a little stick-on hook nearby to hang the real key after using it to open the door.
The only issue is that the immobiliser cuts in after about 30 seconds (I think) if you don’t start the engine. You then have to press the open button on the key fob to switch off the immobiliser. Normally the coil around the barrel causes the key to transmit and keep the immobiliser inactive. Once started it does not cut out.
Hope this helps and is not a duplication of the wisdom here.
Cheers

[Sharkee]

Thanks White Disco good info there. Well I didn't get a chance to get some inox but did find my little squirter of graphite powder and I gave it a good dose and :D working perfectly now. Thanks for all advice much appreciated

Steve

[Ollie]

I searched and found a tutorial when I replaced my steering lock for a D1 unit. The key would go in but not turn. As an emergency measure I removed the bolts & lock pushed the steering lock plunger in & put a Tie Wrap round to stop it engaging. Put the lock back in place with standard SHCS bolts M8 x 12 ? Removed the electrical switch, two screws. So putting the key in place registered on the electronic reader then I turned the, loose switch,to start with a stubbie screw driver. After changing the complete switch for new, via a locksmith to match the old key I found that it still was not perfect. Last weekend I stripped the lock and as per tutorial ground off any minor protrusions . Still not good, I increased the angle on the point of the keys, I then reduced the key thickness from 2.6mm to 2.1mm this solved the problem. I could not find the spring for the steel ball I was about to use the one from the original lock but this seemed to create more issues so I left it out. So all the wafers in cleaned & lubed with Vaseline. No steel ball, thinner key, solved the problem it works wonderfully.

[Steve Td5 130]

I have had the same problem in the past and used the inox to fix.

Spent sometime at a Adelaide Mechanics with other problems with my wifes car.

When he advised me to take other keys from my wifes key ring because the weight of the keys in the ignition would damage the barrel.

Took other 4 keys from the key ring ( No Problems since )

[4runnernomore]

Hi all,

I have the dreaded D2 ignition problem.

I cannot get the key to go in to the ignition barrel. Looking at the barrel there is a bit of metal hanging down (ball bearing /wafer?). I have tried pushing that out of the way but it keeps falling down and key still will not go in.

is is worth trying inox or am I up for a new barrel?

I am based in Darwin so finding someone with experience to assist could be an issue as it is Toyota town.
appreciate any advice.

cheers, Chris

[ScotsD2]

Hi there do what ollie did a couple of posts back remove lock
you will need a cold chisel to turn lock bolts and a cross head
screw driver.
Tape key fob to the ring that surrounds the key hole to make sure
immobiliser is off use a flat bladed screwdriver to turn ignition switch
and head to the local locksmith they should be able to sort lock issues
its easier for them to have just the mechanical part also gives you
wheels to drive arround in Toyota town.

Pete

Pete

[RoundaWhile]

I had the same problem a while ago.


Thanks to the guru's on this forum I will add once again that Inox is the easiest and quickest solution.


Works a treat.


Tony

[bob10]

A puff of graphite dust works for me, Bob

[ozscott]

I use graphite poweder too...a locksmith told me years ago when mine played up that if everyone put a puff of graphite powder in their locks he would go out of business. Cheers

[Disco58]

Another vote for INOX. Tiny squirt, no more problems.

[4runnernomore]

All fixed.


Had a bent wafer and the ball. Ball bearing had dropped because of no lube.

lock pulled apart and fully cleaned/rebuilt.

darwin lock and key did all the work for me as. Was laid up after an operation. Very happy with service and price!

best of all works like a new one, it has never been so smooth since I bought it.

interestingly they said not to use graphite as it clogs the locks up, could be the humidity.

cheers, Chris

[Robgw]

Graphite Power cured mine but try your spare first..

My main key was quite worn so it turned better with the spare before I added the powder. Also got a new key cut, all as new again.