mea culpa Philip A has bought a DIESEL

[PhilipA]

Ok , I can hear the derision already. The V8 lover has bought a D2 TD5.
Today I bought a 2002 TD5 auto with 135KK on the clock from Gumtree Central Coast.
2002 Land Rover Discovery | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Gosford Area - Erina (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/erina/cars-vans-utes/2002-land-rover-discovery/1013997769)

It is STOCK AS A ROCK, with nothing ever replaced eg original springs shocks etc. It has a service record about every 5KK or so!
It is not pretty.
It has a graze on one rear quarter and a dent in the RH rear corner and the bonnet has several spots form flying fox droppings..

However it goes really well, and I tried out the hill descent with accompanying clackity clacks so the ABS works.
It is a 2002 so no CDL and it has 18 in wheels with brand new crap Chinese tyres.
The flares are whitish but no big deal.
I don't know which model so anyone know?
The side steps have to go , but look factory with one mount looking like a replacement bolt to the body mount. There doesn't seem to be any rust around the skylights and the roof lining has arab tent syndrome.

There is a number of oil leaks ( surprise!) with one looking to come from a right angle union high on the timing case. Also drips on the LT230
No oily smell to water , no diesel smell on dipstick and doesn't seem to be making oil. No warped manifold and seeing no misses etc no oil in loom.( for now)
Aircon works and displays show 16 C but not very cold so needs regas.

One funny thing the remote lock unlock does not work, although the light goes on. One button is missing. The seller reckons it has been this way since his parents bought it 7 years ago before passing it on to him. What is it likely to be ? any ideas.? my uneducated thought is that the immobiliser has been disarmed in the BECM. 2 keys.
Anyone know what model it is? I thought I saw LT mentioned somewhere in the certificate from revs, but now cannot find it.
Ah well , all comments welcome and any ideas .

Regards Philip A

[Pierre]

Philip, at last I may be able to pass something on to you...

D2 diesel is a very nice vehicle and it will be much less of a handful than RRC. Oil leak from oil feed to vacuum pump. Probably replace 20c 'o' ring will solve the leak - or just nip it up. Get a Nanocom or something similar for easy diagnostics and fault clearing.

Get RAVE2 and have a read... hours of fun!

Pete

[mattadelaide1975]

Welcome to the Club Philip.

My TD5 D2 which I purchased on Saturday is the same year as yours. havent taken it out bush as yet, but will be this weekend.

My V8 now sits lonely in the front yard waiting for someone to show her some love .

Cheers

Matt

[Rok_Dr]

Welcome from the other side:):)

Side steps look to be genuine factory of aftermarket copy there of.

I'm think the 18 inch wheels are not original but fitted later. The pattern looks like those from the 03/04 update. Being a 5 seater and 02 I would say it is one level above standard. There was a stripper version that year with steel wheels, no wheel flares and steering wheel audio etc, if I recall correctly. Higher spec versions had 7 seats and ALS rear suspension. I'm not sure when they went from the S/ES terminology to the later S/SE/HSE Model rankings that the update model used.

I can't immediately explain the key. Unlike the late classic range rovers and disco 1 there separate buttons for lock (small) and unlock (large). Still confuses me coming from a single button remote. The problem could be something as simple as a poor electrical connection.

Get a nanocom and see if there is a signal being received by the BCU from the key and go from there.

Cheers

Steve

[CountP]

Welcome to the D2 td5 brotherhood......my condolences.
You will be spending more time on here.

[Blknight.aus]

remember you no longer need to worry about how close the next servo is when your driving out of the one you just filled up in.

welcome to a whole new world of landrovering.

[neonisneon]

get a new remote u will be ok

[OffTrack]

Hi Philip,

Sounds like you've scored a pretty decent buy.

If you can PM me the VIN I'll have a look on Microcat and see what build information there is.

The wheels appear be the "Hurricane" 18 x 8" rims that were available as an option on the 2002MY.

cheers
Paul

[Pedro_The_Swift]

you bought a WHAT?????:o:o:o

[PhilipA]

No not a Cheep, though I was really very impressed with a JK4Dr Wrangler 2013 Rubicon that a young guy bought to show me the other day.

I don't have a cool 50K to spend and my wife has forbidden anything with little windows and a high dash. She didn't like D3 D4 to sit in as she reckons its too low. The D2 is really like a modern RRC but has a Glovebox!

I have to say I am looking forward to prepping the D2, although $200 plus for a battery cradle is a lot. Snorkel, 16 inch wheels, CDL, will keep me occupied for awhile.
There seem to be a lot on ebay but most in Mexico City.
Regards Philip A

[OffTrack]

Philip,

Check out the ARB battery tray, it's a much more reasonably priced option ≈$75.00

cheers
Paul

[Pierre]

And easy on us Mexicans, too

Pete

[Mundy]

[QUOTE=PhilipA;1857877] One funny thing the remote lock unlock does not work, although the light goes on. ...... 2 keys.
/[QUOTE]

If you have 2 keys and neither fob works despite red light illuminating, it may be the aerial/sensor which is in the middle of the rear cargo bay above the roof lining. This happened to me but I was lucky enough to be able to have it fixed under warranty.

[OffTrack]

Philip,

Having had a look at microcat you've got yourself a late March 2002 vehicle - built about a month before the change to 2003MY.

It will have the updated steering knuckles with revised caster angle that came in the last few months of the 2002MY production, and also the updated rear diff breathers which were relocated to behind the passenger tail light.

The other nice thing is the EU3 engine, so you have the reflashable ECU and larger "d2a intercooler" which is more accurately a EU3 Intercooler.

The wheels are actually Proline 18" and were factory fitted.

If you get around to taking a decent pic we are looking for a local d2 in Oslo Blue for the colour reference.

cheers
Paul

[Eevo]

remember you no longer need to worry about how close the next servo is when your driving out of the one you just filled up in.


but do remember to pull over to let the traffic pass you :wasntme:

[OffTrack]

The wheels are actually Proline 18" and were factory fitted.


right first time - its got Hurricanes on it now.

[Andrew D]

but do remember to pull over to let the traffic pass you :wasntme:

I noticed the chap was selling due to loss of licence. Obviously for running red lights and not stopping at stops sign. Wanted to maintain momentum considering he's driving a diesel.:D

Regards
Andrew

[Sharkee]

Philip,

Check out the ARB battery tray, it's a much more reasonably priced option ≈$75.00

cheers
Paul

I've just bought one (ARB battery tray) for I think it was $68 new from arb. Stupid thing is someone just bought the same one on ebay for 170 odd bucks:o:eek:. Obviously the buyers didn't do their homework!!!. If they go for that much on ebay Hmmmmm a money making venture ahead :D.
Better tray imo they have the turbo heat guard included

[PhilipA]

I've just bought one (ARB battery tray) for I think it was $68 new from
arb.

Yes I saw that sell price and wondered when I saw the earlier post and am planning to go to my closest ARB store to check.
You don't seem to be able to order ARB stuff on line from a dealer . Is that correct?
Regards Philip A

[PhilipA]

The D2 and I have NOT got off to a good start.

Picked it up this afternoon and drove home, well almost home.
About a Km from home the 3 amigos light up. Oh sugar!

Then the rest of the dash lights up and the engine stops. Double sugar.

So try a restart. Clickity click.

I had noticed that the PO had warmed it up before my arrival and I asked him directly whether it was because of a flat battery. Oh no.

I had noticed that the negative terminal had acid all over it, so I rang my wife to come and pick me up , went home and collected the RRC and tools.

I couldn't get the neg terminal off!!!! and it became obvious that it wasn't going to come off. Jump started it after twisting the terminal and drove home, took the next 2 hours to work out it wasn't for moving and ended up cutting it off.
What genius invented the battery connections?

I found a suitable terminal and cut the old terminal off and fitted a new one.
So no 3 amigos after restart now and I have the battery on a 20 amp smart charger, but its probably stuffed from sulphation.

The radio doesnt work either . Dead as a dodo so probably a fuse but none of the fuses underbonnet were labelled radio.
Oh the joy of buying second hand cars.

Regards Philip A

[Blknight.aus]

but do remember to pull over to let the traffic pass you :wasntme:

mate I'd've put my td5 up against anything you v8 mob had to offer. (then i had to sell it to support he missus ability to offload fluid assests)

I'd still be game to put my tdi200 up against a v8 of the same group

[gavinwibrow]

The D2 and I have NOT got off to a good start.

The radio doesnt work either . Dead as a dodo so probably a fuse but none of the fuses underbonnet were labelled radio.
Oh the joy of buying second hand cars.

Regards Philip A
If its the same as mine under the dash, radio (and clock) is listed as fuse number 16 [15A], plus check fuse number 33 [10A] which can affect radio and starting as I found out via dswatts the other day

[OffTrack]

Philip,

Sounds like a bit of neglect coupled with age.

I recently replaced the earth lead on mine due to the clamp freezing but it was getting badly frayed near the point it mounts to body.

You'll find that the ecu's will throw faults when the voltage drops below a certain point. The auto shows m & s fault when the battery drops below 11.5v for example.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the 3amigos as it will most likely be voltage related.

Its worth having a read through the owners manual at least once. It will save a lot of frustration in the short term, and you'll get a better idea of the bells and whistles.

Cheers
Paul

[OffTrack]

If its the same as mine under the dash, radio (and clock) is listed as fuse number 16 [15A], plus check fuse number 33 [10A] which can affect radio and starting as I found out via dswatts the other day

They are all the essentially the same, so fuse locations etc are valid across all the MY's.

[Blknight.aus]

if you suspect ages of neglect...

service the cooling system NOW... especially the secret heater hose everyone forgets about.

oh and you'll probably find that the alternators not up to snuff if it died while the engine was making good RPMS.

[OffTrack]

if you suspect ages of neglect...

service the cooling system NOW... especially the secret heater hose everyone forgets about.

oh and you'll probably find that the alternators not up to snuff if it died while the engine was making good RPMS.

Or Philip could do the sensible thing and spend a little time with the vehicle and identify issues that actually need attention.

[PhilipA]

Once I made up a new earth lead and gave the battery a 20amp smart charge all night, she is going like a train. I have fitted a Megapulse I had lying around.

I don't know how old the battery is so I will check voltage this Afternoon, but it took charge for several hours before float so it maybe is not too sulphated. Its an N70Z with 650CCA so a bit smaller than recommended , and the battery tray is ENORMOUS, at 340Mm long. No battery hold down. how slack is that?
I hope the battery lasts until I get my ARB battery tray as I want to see whether I can fit a starting battery big enough in the ARB tray, and fit a BIG AGM in the original tray as an AGM would hate to be next to the turbo. Anyone done that?

The radio works today after I input the security code. LOL. The PO must not have input the code after a previous low battery. The AM performance is quite a bit better than the Pioneer in my RRC. Good old Eurovox. They made quality gear and that is why I fitted them as OEM in BMWs back in the 80s.

The amigos and all warnings go out in a couple of seconds after switch on.

I must say I am impressed with the get up and go. A liitle turbo lag but it goes fine and probably better than my Thor manifold v8 at lower revs, even not in "s". Much better than expected. maybe its the extra 40nm in the EU3 auto.

Doesn't sound all that good compared to a V8, and filling it up was a trial today with diesel dribbling on the car and wrestling with the stiff hose.

Turning circle with the 18s is pathetic and worse than my RRC but 16s should fix that.
Overall so far I am a happy camper with my decision.
Regards Philip A

[OffTrack]

I don't know how old the battery is so I will check voltage this Afternoon, but it took charge for several hours before float so it maybe is not too sulphated. Its an N70Z with 650CCA so a bit smaller than recommended , and the battery tray is ENORMOUS, at 340Mm long. No battery hold down. how slack is that?
I hope the battery lasts until I get my ARB battery tray as I want to see whether I can fit a starting battery big enough in the ARB tray, and fit a BIG AGM in the original tray as an AGM would hate to be next to the turbo. Anyone done that?

I'm running one of these Enex D31MF starter/deepcycle batteries in the main tray: Battery: E-NEX DC31MF, E-ENEX Dual Purpose Batteries, DC31MF (http://www.everybattery.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=DC31MF)

I have a supercharge MSV48 60ah battery in the ARB tray. I've got the stock track, but it really needs extra heat shielding when you are working the motor hard.

This kind of setup runs really well with one of Drivesafe's USI-160 or SC-80 controllers which run both batteries down until 12V when it switches out the starter.

cheers
Paul

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Phillip the turning circle for 18's is an easy fix,,
but if you are going to fit 16's hang off,,

[Sharkee]

Yes I saw that sell price and wondered when I saw the earlier post and am planning to go to my closest ARB store to check.
You don't seem to be able to order ARB stuff on line from a dealer . Is that correct?
Regards Philip A
They'll generally try and sell you the piranha one which is I think around $180. You have to say to them No I want the ARB branded one which some ARB staff don't even relise they sell. IMO a better product that comes with a heat shield of sorts. Good luck with it mate.

Steve

[PhilipA]

I have ordered and paid for one from my nearest ARB dealer (which is a workshop in the next building LOL) for $68.
it was in stock Melbourne so not here yet.
I have been preoccupied anyway with my failed Alternator, see technical Chatter.
Regards Philip A