And so the restoration begins...

[LoveB]

Long story short, saw this car advertised, wanted so bad but didnt have space for it. Aunt says I can park it over at her place so bought it the next day. Apparently calling minutes before someone else :eek:

So here we go,

All I really know at this stage is it is a 50's Series 1. Not sure of exact year at the moment. Not sure if matching numbers but I believe that would be the case.

Was owned by the first owner out in hunter valley. Who I guess was in the fire brigade. He had full rego on it etc and when the rego lapsed he used it as a farm ute for a while then parked it in the shed for 25 years. Guy I bought it from has had it for 2 years now. Only sold it as he's brought home another falcon to work on (and he has 2 older land rovers as well)

Now, I'm not very educated when it comes to series landy's so I'm gonna need all the help I can get with this. Gonna resto and have it as a weekender. My aunt wants it as a gift for her husband so I'll have someone to split the bill with. Anyway, some questions before I get the photos going.

1. Where do I find the all informative numbers? Chassis/engine/transmission?

2. Were these landys run with hydraulic brakes? I can see a cylinder under the gas tank but not sure where the fill cap is? (wanted to try and fill it or get the brakes going cause the drive way to my aunts is a downhill slope and it currently has no brakes. not even the hand brake)

3. how do I identify the engine? not sure which model it is.

4.Lastly, if any of you happen to have a diagram or what is what in the cabin like the light stalks and all that. please do post it up!

looks to be fairly complete and fairly intact. plans at the moment is to just get it mechanically sound and maybe run it with the body as is in all its glory. (apart from fixing and de rusting a few rusted bits that are attatched to the body)

now, enough talk. here goes the pics. Someone asked me earlier about the top and its a home made tin one.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/559902_612069412142564_1760444476_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/598583_612069288809243_872247939_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/521482_612069472142558_808817884_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/66950_612069502142555_100129391_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/68922_612069505475888_1456022861_n.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/32146_612069555475883_1511610078_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/64749_612069548809217_345456244_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536907_612069565475882_1111519210_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/48075_612069592142546_1036981023_n.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/66677_612069622142543_1449546602_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/32164_612069638809208_151723472_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/62906_612069658809206_1812598026_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16301_612069662142539_544514065_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188328_612069712142534_866102337_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/73461_612069735475865_331753159_n.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/488021_612069798809192_280676738_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/33947_612069872142518_283487891_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/45328_612069885475850_596614374_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/559839_612069918809180_1696354680_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/66947_612069965475842_518158667_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/17516_612069975475841_1692200880_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/485192_612069985475840_844300225_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/536930_612070005475838_1187191682_n.jpg

[LoveB]

oh btw I tried to turn the engine with the hand crank thing and it seems to turn okay. so i suppose that means the engine isnt seized.

is that the only way to start this>

[drifter]

oh btw I tried to turn the engine with the hand crank thing and it seems to turn okay. so i suppose that means the engine isnt seized.

is that the only way to start this>

No - you will need a key for that key switch in the centre of the dash - and you push the button under the dash - you can see it in the dash picture.

The hydraulic brake filler is that screw cap you can see inboard of your petrol tank in the tank pictures.

[LoveB]

Noted. Thank you. yes, I have the key with it. just didnt have it in the picture as it was in my pocket.

I suppose no harm in slapping a battery in trying to get it to turn over. Will see if getting fluid in the brakes will atleast let me get it down the driveway safely.

Seems to be missing 1 battery wire though. :(


also from what I've read, am I right in thinking the chassis or body number is the one thats bolted to the car under the instrument panel? where can I fidn the otehrs?

[drifter]

1. Where do I find the all informative numbers? Chassis/engine/transmission? That number you can see in the picture of the plate you showed should match the chassis number. I don't know where it is stamped on that vehicle but suspect it is on top of the chassis, passenger side, in the engine bay.

2. Were these landys run with hydraulic brakes? I can see a cylinder under the gas tank but not sure where the fill cap is? (wanted to try and fill it or get the brakes going cause the drive way to my aunts is a downhill slope and it currently has no brakes. not even the hand brake) It may need more than just filling.

3. how do I identify the engine? not sure which model it is. Someone else can answer that properly but it looks like the 2 litre engine to me.

4.Lastly, if any of you happen to have a diagram or what is what in the cabin like the light stalks and all that. please do post it up!

looks to be fairly complete and fairly intact. plans at the moment is to just get it mechanically sound and maybe run it with the body as is in all its glory. (apart from fixing and de rusting a few rusted bits that are attatched to the body)

now, enough talk. here goes the pics. Someone asked me earlier about the top and its a home made tin one.









Hopefully you will find this is your chassis number (unless the plate or firewall have been changed) and that is the starter button to the right of the plate.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/65993_612069525475886_1046837933_n.jpg







See the screw cap on the other side of the tank? Brake fluid goes in there.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/5497_612069612142544_254972784_n.jpg











Key switch for ignition. The outer control also controls the lights.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/64421_612069758809196_1365952157_n.jpg


Good luck finding a horn button - they are rare.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/179665_612069772142528_1165754556_n.jpg


The button under the dash (under the right empty screw hole in the dash) is your starter.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/574705_612069788809193_1379377995_n.jpg

















Good luck with the rebuild.

[101RRS]

Looks like an early 86" - 55 maybe. Post up the chassis number from the data plate and someone will be able to tell you or point you in the right direction.

Garry

[drifter]

Noted. Thank you. yes, I have the key with it. just didnt have it in the picture as it was in my pocket.

I suppose no harm in slapping a battery in trying to get it to turn over. Will see if getting fluid in the brakes will atleast let me get it down the driveway safely.

Seems to be missing 1 battery wire though. :(


also from what I've read, am I right in thinking the chassis or body number is the one thats bolted to the car under the instrument panel? where can I fidn the otehrs?


Before you go tossing a battery in there, you need to see if it is a positive earth or a negative earth vehicle.

I suspect it is a positive earth car. You will need to check that.

[LoveB]

from the plate above it seems its a 54,86' CKD export RHD unit? is that right?


also how do I go about finding out whether its a positive or negative earth? I'm gonna need to find anotehr cable anyway I think as I can only see one at this stage.


Planning on changing the oil and filter...


What oil do you suggest and whereabouts would I be able to get a filter for it?

[wrinklearthur]

from the plate above it seems its a 54,86' CKD export RHD unit? is that right? late 1954 :thumbsup:



also how do I go about finding out whether its a positive or negative earth? I'm gonna need to find another cable anyway I think as I can only see one at this stage.
Put a good battery in and hook it up with one lead, the one that goes direct to the back of the starter button, then couple a 12 volt light bulb between the earth lead and onto the other post and watch out for the following;
1. Lots of sparks and the light bulb glowing mean that something is drawing a strong current, keep finding and turning switches off until they cease drawing current.
2. When turning the key on watch out for, adding this, if the fuel pump starts pumping quickly, look at where the petrol is going the hose to the carby maybe perished and smoke, Lucas stuff runs on it, when it escapes, that's all folks.
3. When you have got to the stage that you need to know which polarity it is, turn the switch on for the headlights onto it's first position which is for the park lights, at the same time watch which way the Amp meter flicks and whether it moves slightly to the negative and if that is the way then all is well.


Planning on changing the oil and filter... Is the oil that's in it still fluid?
If not, drop the sump and make sure that the goo hasn't blocked the oil pump pick up.


What oil do you suggest and whereabouts would I be able to get a filter for it?
Old motor with a few years on it in a warm climate, I suggest you try a 20W-40 old car spec or mineral oil, don't use a oil for modern engines and definitely not use a oil for a diesel engine, they have too high a detergent level .
Which side of the engine is the oil filter on, if it has an original engine it should be on the side under the exhaust manifold and that being the case it would be a bypass oil filter that uses the oil that is bypassed from the relief valve.
Sick engines don't seem to need the bypass filter changing! ;)

.

[Landy Smurf]

It is really good and I think it will run.
It is very complete and has some really good parts on it.
As stated before the centre horn is a bugger to get but depends how original you want it, you could put a horn button on the side of the steering column.

[LoveB]

Thank you. I will give it a look over all day tomorrow and come back with more pics and such.

I'll throw the battery in tomorrow. It's only got one lead at the moment. unsure if the other one is stuck under somewhere or was taken off but I'll get to that.

Also at this stage I havent checked the oil but I'll get to it tomorrow as well. Gonna clean the engine bay etc.


Thanks for all the help and looking forward to getting into it!

[LoveB]

It is really good and I think it will run.
It is very complete and has some really good parts on it.
As stated before the centre horn is a bugger to get but depends how original you want it, you could put a horn button on the side of the steering column.

the button itself works. just no badge on it I guess. hoping I can get it fired up in the coming week. then time to check on brakes!


any of you canberrans wanna come by and have a squizz feel free. need all the help i get! lol

[klonk]

Nice original car, good find. Its pretty straight with just a few battle scars from its past life. Be carefull when repairing the horn button as drifter said they are rare to find but he left out the expensive part.(ebay and credit cards are a nessary evil) The center is attached to a tube and clamped at the bottom of the steering box inside the engine bay. Also look after the tail lights ,nice to have the originals, lens can be found.
We will all be watching to so how bad the landroveritis gets.

Cheers Steve

[LoveB]

Thank you. yes, was told they had original tail lights etc.


what does the little switch under the horn button do?

also, I may as well get new battery cables but where do I hook them up to?

[russellrovers]

Nice original car, good find. Its pretty straight with just a few battle scars from its past life. Be carefull when repairing the horn button as drifter said they are rare to find but he left out the expensive part.(ebay and credit cards are a nessary evil) The center is attached to a tube and clamped at the bottom of the steering box inside the engine bay. Also look after the tail lights ,nice to have the originals, lens can be found.
We will all be watching to so how bad the landroveritis gets.

Cheers Stevehi very nice the little switch is the high and low beam good find

[LoveB]

There we go. Another random switch whose purpose I didnt know ticked off the list!

[drifter]

Remember that starter switch under the dash?

Check it out in the engine bay side of things. It should have 2 big fat wires on it - one going to the starter motor and one going to the battery.

The other battery wire goes to a bolt on either the battery frame or the chassis which also has a cable that connects the earth to the engine.

[mfc]

you can find youre engine number on the block at the front running down alongside the exhaust manifold.
ill dig oot a link to parts and workshop pdfs in a bit
a bit older than mine ....{55}

must gets..........elastroplast , crc, whitworth spanners{check under the pasanger seat}..tetanus booster,more crc ,more elastroplast, zip lock bags and marker to name each bolt\bit removed
{if you have children you might need to pop into a sex shop and get a ball gag}
regards mark
Series I Manuals | Carolina Rover Owners Club (http://www.carolinarovers.info/?Itemid=210)

[LoveB]

Once again thank you! I'll have a look at the cable tomorrow.

and no, no children so I think I'm alright for now. hahaha. Will look for engine number tomorrow then post it up. still unsure whether 1600 or 2000

[mfc]

the other two controls are hand throttle{semi circular thingie}and choke {small near the starter}

[mfc]

the handbook link i put up isnt working but this is i checked it
Series I Manuals | Carolina Rover Owners Club (http://www.carolinarovers.info/?Itemid=210)

[LoveB]

Roger that. thank you and thank you for the link :)

[wrinklearthur]

The center is attached to a tube and clamped at the bottom of the steering box inside the engine bay.

You will find that the wires from the horn and the dipper switch travel down that tube then around into a circular junction box mounted on the engine side of the firewall.
Please, lots of CRC or similar, must be sprayed onto the grub screws a Lllloooonnnnnggggg --- long --- time ahead of trying to undo them .

.

[LoveB]

no plans of taking that out at the moment but I'll get some spray onto it tomorrow!


wanting to replace/bleed brake fluid tomorrow in hopes that fixes it. As well as align the shoes etc.


What brake fluid should i use? will any dot 3 work?

[andy_d110]

Looks like a great find. The front left wheel looks like a 48/49 rim, with the valve in line with the slot.

[LoveB]

Talk about knowledgable! never even crossed my mind. always thought they were all similar. lol

[mfc]

regards the horn, it'll most likley work by depresing the remaining bit of the button anyhow.

[LoveB]

Gonna get stuck into it today. First order is a really good clean so I know what I'm working with!

[Landy Smurf]

spray all bolts and nuts after you clean it so they are easier to take off later

[LoveB]

will do! expect more pics today. Gonna try and get the chassis and engine number as well.

[LoveB]

Just a small update, I'll have pictures up for later but for now I'll ask a question, 212192 is stamped near the spark plugs. Would I be correct in guessing that is the motor number? if so does it mean this is a 1.6 or 2.0? thank you.


the other good news is i found the other lead lodged underneath. Today I would like to see if it will crank with a fresh battery. Not fussed if it doesnt fire up yet. as it has no petrol right now anyway


double edit:

which is which on the leads? theres a green and blue wire.

[LoveB]

sorry yet anotehr post. got it to crank. its positive ground. Dash lights work. Park lights work. cranks strong. No fire. Not fussed. 1. no petrol 2.havent checked if fuse for fuel pump is blown.

Few more photos and some updates:

vehicle cranks so thats good.

Poured brake fluid into the reservoir but no brakes still. Dont see any visible leaks so I'm guessing the shoes are either stuck open or need to be adjusted? what should I look at?

also, when depressing the foot brake all the way, it pushes the clutch pedal down as well. Is that normal? having a look underneath there seems to be a little lock that pulls the clutch down when the brakes are pressed all the way.

Also, brakes wise, what should I attempt first? should I try adjusting the shoes? just need it to work a bit for now so I can drive it down into the driveway where I'm moving it. Will probably tear apart and order new shoes in the future.

There seems to be a leak under where the top rad hose attatches to. is that where the water pump is? it would seem as though its under where the thermostat would be just behind the pulley. Attatched a pic of where the water starts trickling from.

In one of the photos theres what seems to be a capacitor? anyway it has wires that come to where the steering wheel is but it isnt attatched to anything. Not sure what its for. It appears theres also a switch they attatched onto the rear of the ignition barrel..


now for a few more photos

should this be covered??
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/76065_612561805426658_48276144_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/480182_612561782093327_251602675_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/602224_612561848759987_1636798171_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/21750_612561922093313_1239045074_n.jpg


what this for?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/66720_612561988759973_239740829_n.jpg
it has wires going towards the steering column but it isnt attatched to anything?

doesnt look 'too muddy'
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/525017_612561975426641_622532141_n.jpg
gonna change the oil before I try to get it running.

and I've got a leak coming from here.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/488117_612562075426631_1678856280_n.jpg

What should I be looking at? its just above the pulley and under where the top radiator hose attaches onto. I believe its where the thermostat sits?

[wrinklearthur]

Just a small update, I'll have pictures up for later but for now I'll ask a question, 212192 is stamped near the spark plugs. Would I be correct in guessing that is the motor number? if so does it mean this is a 1.6 or 2.0?
There is a picture on another thread that shows the position of the engine number, the correct engine for your chassis number should be a 2 litre Siamese bore with a bypass oil filter, have a look at that other posting I did for you the bypass has two tubes going into the top of the filter can and to see it look down from the exhaust manifold .


i found the other lead lodged underneath. ---- which is which on the leads? theres a green and blue wire.

Don't worry too much about the colour of the leads, but very carefully look at the sizes of the battery posts and then look at the clamps sizes, all should be good if you get those sorted.
The original battery leads would have been a black plastic sheath with a cloth coating, I haven't seen those type of cables for years.

I might add that originally the battery would have been hooked up as a positive earth system, then when good generators became scarce people used to fit alternators and change the system over to negative earth.
Another reason to change them over was that a car radio could be fitted and also CB radios, which all require a negative earth system.

[LoveB]

Yep, its a positive ground. the positive ground lead has cracked so i may replace it but the car cranked strong as it was.

Should I bother trying to change it to a negative ground or leave it as it is? I have no plans of installing a radio or a cb.

[mfc]

if the numbers are on the head its not the engine number .....if there on the flat surface of the block for the exhaust manifold {just infront of it} there hard to see, use a wire brush and degreaser.
hmmm if the oil filter is on the drivers side it indicates a spread bore engine , if theres the canister on the exhaust side its a siamese bore {older than mine ,1955. but im unshure of the change date.}

[mfc]

clarification....

1/yea the ht lead should be covered, id use elec tape as at least ,just to try run it..
2/ the oil leak the circular peice is the thermostat housing {it sits under it as is the squarish block it bolts to } so id guess the oil is from the rocker gasket
3/unshure on the brake clutch depressing together ,but might just be the two leavers binding up{ill pop a pic of mine up}
im no expert but id try the park brake as its a seperate thing and is the round drum on the rear drive shaft behind the gearbox..
4/ flasher can??? pull it out of its holder and see if it looks like a relay {3 or 4 terminals}

[LoveB]

yes i think mine is siamese bore.

Has the filter on passenger side. put fluid in but brakes still no go. What should I be checking? try to adjust the shoes?

[mfc]

brake and clutch leaver pics

also if you turn the black nob 1 click and then the key with someone listening to the fule pump it will click a few times if its working

re oil leaks ...you wont find them till all the gunk is cleaned of
the parts and workshop manual {link in above post} will show you heaps and lists engine numbers etc
cheers mark

[mfc]

if its on the flat and you have labor about roll it a little and try the hand brake
the brakes arnt likley to be a quick solution even if its adjustment

the workshop and parts manual in one of my posts above will help with the clutch break issue

[LoveB]

Ok motor number is 47108910


EDIT:

sorry I shold have mentioned the leak I'm getting is of water. not oil. Suspect thers an oil leak somewhere but I'll have to remove all the gunk and find it first. Wanna get the car to fire if it can as is. Then might pull engine out to give it a good clean and service (if theres leaks)

I'll try the handbrake as that doesnt work too.


thought i attatched it earlier but here is the landy after trying to crank it for the first time.

1954 series 1 first crank - YouTube

[mfc]

1954 car with 1954 2 l engine
in regards to if its a siameese bore or spread bore i cant tell but someone here can{i just recall someone saying that the filter on the drivers side was spreadbore and the canister on exhaust side was siameese }
cheers mark
ps theres heaps of s 1 owners on here from the act

[LoveB]

indeed, gonna need to ask for help! gonna tow it out to sydney though. so need to find a trailer to rent too

[LoveB]

What does this attatch to?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

opened up filter canister today. Had oil in it. lightly black but clean smooth oil

[russellrovers]

What does this attatch to?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s480x480/65535_612643728751799_1902162373_n.jpg

opened up filter canister today. Had oil in it. lightly black but clean smooth oil
hi it looks as if they by passed the orignal fuel pump not uncommon put a touch of petrol down the carby to see if it fires also take the timing cover off to check if its not gunked up with 50 years of sludge

[LoveB]

yeah there seems to be another pump which is on the bottom as shown in the pic. I'll try and give it a go. Will probably wait till nextg week before I can get the cover off. thanks

[wrinklearthur]

Have you got spark?
.

[LoveB]

Have not checked yet.. How do you suggest I go about checking? suppose it would help if I chuck a bit of petrol into the motor too. lol

[wrinklearthur]

Key on, distributor cap off, points open and with a plastic handled screw driver short the points out momentarily, you should hear a sharp click from the coil each time the points are shorted then left open.
Don't hold the cap while doing this as you will gain instant brains, if you wasn't thinking before you will afterwards. :twisted:
.

[LoveB]

May try that tomorrow. will yank the battery out of the saab again. hahah

[dennisS1]

Just my opinion, but if it has not run for some time and you want to keep this S1, I would not try to start it.
Bearing surfaces that have stuck to the crank, stuck valves and rings plus other thing can do far more damage than desirable.
You really gain nothing from starting it.
Pull it out and down then rebuild and you know what you have.
I can show you main bearings that had almost no wear but the surface just came off if this engine had been started the crankshaft would have been damaged.
Dennis

[LoveB]

True. i suppose with it cranking i really have nothing to worry about.

How do guys suggest I go about getting the engine off? but that might have to wait till i get it to the warehouse as it'll be at my aunts for a bit. might try and get the brakes going there. or can I take the engine apart enough without having to physically take it out?

[Landy Smurf]

what are your intentions with the restoration?

[LoveB]

I'm not after showroom finish. i like the weathered look. I'll probably do the body another time.


I just want it to run and drive as it should for short trips in the area.

[Landy Smurf]

i guess you really need to know if the engine goes first before you can tackle the other parts. I am sure there is someone in the act who can give you a hand one day

[LoveB]

gonna be taking the car out to sydney on wednesday. will trailer it up. there I'll have the space I'd need to take it apart. hopefully all goes well

[mfc]

get the degreaser out, thats what id do first. at least you can see, makes it more plesant to work on.
id be taking the sump of and scrape out the sludge and clean the oil strainer and put in a cheep oil before trying to run it.
the fuel pumps are available and are serviceable.
Quite a bit can be done on the engine with it still in the car as well .

BTW soak every bolt in a penitrant well before you try and take it off ,there most likley witworth and not freely available.

[LoveB]

Yeah thats about right. I mean with the bonnet off I basically have access to the top of the engine. If I put it up on ramps I should have enough access for the sump. I'll try and adjust the service brake for now etc. Getting the car taken to Sydney tomorrow where I'll work on it further. Armed with degreaser and a screw driver I'm gonna try to get all the gunk off of it.

[Landy Smurf]

I have locked it in for looking at a few 86' ute cabs( land rover ones, not home made) if you want one for yours I am happy to get one and hold at my place.
But you will need to let me know by tonight.
so you live in ACT but the s1 will be at your aunty's in sydney?

[LoveB]

Yes. I'll be staying at my aunts for weeks at a time working on it. :) so will be good to have the space to work on it.


Yes, I would be keen on the cabs. as the one on it now is made with tin. just pm me whatever info I need to know. price etc and all that. Thank you! :)

[ellard]

Hi there

Just read your post and looking forwards to the progress. It is always great to get something which hasnt been ratted of parts - great find.

Wayne

[LoveB]

Thank you. looking forward to it as well.

Being a volunteer firefighter from overseas I love that it still has the fire brigades logo on the door!

[russellrovers]

True. i suppose with it cranking i really have nothing to worry about.

How do guys suggest I go about getting the engine off? but that might have to wait till i get it to the warehouse as it'll be at my aunts for a bit. might try and get the brakes going there. or can I take the engine apart enough without having to physically take it out?
hi take the plugs out and fill up with a mixture of kerosene and diesol that will help also go round and spray inox on aii the nuts on the backing plate also most important good luck

[LoveB]

Tried to adjust the brakes. nothing so far. the screw seems to just keep turning and turning and turning.


Adjusted hand brake and got it to lock but no feel on the handle. turns out the metal bit that pulls onto the string is cut hence why the hand brake lever does nothing.

can I get teh car down a slight down driveway if I left the transmission brake slightly on? i can still push it but it its way heavier now. Was thinking of having it in 1st gear also then just release the clutch to lock it up or slow it down once i got to ge end of the driveway. (only option cause the tow truck wont fit the driveway)


and just to be sure, the way to 'tighten' the shoes should be clockwise yes?

[101RRS]

Silly question :o - did you bleed the brakes when you put the fluid in?

[LoveB]

Well... no I should probably try to now. lol I dont have enough line to bleed it though. Might just get it to bleed straight out to a can or something. but I think I can manage. let me try it out quickly as the towie is coming tomorrow!

[LoveB]

Just tried to give that a shot. no avail. Fluid not even coming out of any wheel front or back. I would guess its dried up from before and blocked somewhere. Probably not worth even trying to flush it out. Might just have to order whole new rebuilt kit...

Is there any thing else I should try though? maybe disconnect the line from somewhere to see if its just like the end hoses or something thats cactus?


also question before i get it fired up, seeing as its an old car and parked up it probably wasnt changed to harder valves? should I buy the lead substitute when I put petrol in it later down the road?

[Landy Smurf]

some people do some dont the way i look at it, it cant hurt

[LoveB]

Might as well get one to be sure. Heading to sydney tomorrow

[russellrovers]

Might as well get one to be sure. Heading to sydney tomorrow
you may be have to get new brake hose they can pull in

[LoveB]

Yep. I've got a feeling. Gonna try and pull off the hoses tomorrow and open the brakes.

So yes, can i roll it down the drive way with the trans brake slightly engaged? and can I have it in 1st while in neutral then just get off the clutch when im at the end of the driveway? its not super steep. and the end bit is full of grass.

[Landy Smurf]

if you have a crank handle you can put it in gear and crank it. but if it is not a steep driveway i would clutch it and have a few bits of wood down the other end ready or you can just do a little at a time

[LoveB]

ha! I didnt think of that. I do have a crank handle. I'll see how that goes. I'll ask the tow truck driver to help me. I'm sure it shouldnt be that hard. otherwise I'm sure if I clutch down and let off at the end it should be fine.

[LoveB]

So ive tried to roll it down the driveway... It was all fine and the clutch was slowing it doen but close to thebottom its just released but lucky the car stopped when i turned it... But now the car doesnt lock when in gear? Have i destroyed something? No jarring or grinding noise. Just no bite. Too dark to checl now so what should i be looking at?

[mfc]

So ive tried to roll it down the driveway... It was all fine and the clutch was slowing it doen but close to thebottom its just released but lucky the car stopped when i turned it... But now the car doesnt lock when in gear? Have i destroyed something? No jarring or grinding noise. Just no bite. Too dark to checl now so what should i be looking at?

look at fixing the brakes lol
check the linkages , i wouldent recon it dramatic ,likley somthing youd have had to fix soon anyhow.
the experts will pipe up soon.

[LoveB]

Lesson learned, dont hit hi low shifter. It popped into neutral lol! All good now.

Ordering complete brake rebuild kit soon.

How do you suggest i go about with the engine? Get top and sump off first?

Also, neighbour here has a 49 willys jeep. Must not let rover down!! Lol

[mfc]

someone recently posted up about replacing brake lines....got them bent up very cheeply by a local brake joint..the cylinders can be sleaved and recod easily to...likley cheeper than buying a full kit...

[LoveB]

Will look it up. Uncle paying for the lot so dont mind spending on that atleast.

Is there a local supplier for the brake kits?

[101RRS]

Just buy four new wheel cylinders and the three rubber brake hoses. Send the master cylinder over to the brake re-sleeving place in Queanbeyan for resleeving and a new kit.

Measure the inside of the drums to ensure they are still in specs and have a look at the brake lining - if low Morwood Motors (in ABS Brakes) in Townsville St Fyshwich may very well have exchange or new shoes in stock.

The odds are that the metal brake pipes are still ok but may need cleaning out - inspect to make sure they are not rusted out or have holes in them.

If the snail cams are knackered kits from these can be obtained from many of the major Landie spare parts suppliers.

Garry

[LoveB]

Thanks garry. Will look into it.


Looks like at this stage might be getting a puma d110 as well. O_O fingers crossed

[LoveB]

seriesoneparts.com has a rebuild kit for 599$... Dont think thats too bad for the complete bit.

however in the description it says it works upto 1953... and what I've got is a 54... will it still work?

[mfc]

seriesoneparts.com has a rebuild kit for 599$... Dont think thats too bad for the complete bit.

however in the description it says it works upto 1953... and what I've got is a 54... will it still work?
best get on to them and ask ...i figure 1953 would be 80 inch

[wrinklearthur]

There were many changes to the brakes between the 80" and the 1954 86".
So the short answer is no.

Try Jim at
Four Wheel Drives (http://www.fwd.com.au/)
13 Terracotta Drive
Blackburn VIC 3130
Phone: 03 9890 0509.

or
Gary at 'CLR 4WD Parts'
99 Princes highway St. Peters
NSW 2044.
Phone: 02 9550 2689.

Tell them Arthur sent you.
.

[LoveB]

Thanks mate. I'll give them a ring tmrw.

Might drive to clr 4wd parts on saturday if they're open


EDIT: I'll ask again to be sure, before I put petrol in should I chuck lead substitute? engine hasnt been run in 27 years so im guessing it hasnt got the hardened valve seals yet??

[mfc]

dont think that lead substitute is worth it just to get it to fire up..
{long term i dont know}.But order a sump gasket as there will be some oil porn living in the sump, best of to scrape it all out before running it.

[Landy Smurf]

i ran my 80'on normal fuel if it is just for a little while it doesnt matter

[wrinklearthur]

before I put petrol in should I chuck lead substitute?
I wouldn't bother at the moment as you are unlikely to use anything like a tank full of petrol, but when the engine is running and the Land Rover is on the road, yes.
Your biggest worry will be if the tank leaks between the joint in the bottom plates, it's a well known problem with Land Rovers with a few years on them.

What condition is the old oil in, have you looked at it before you try and start the engine?
With 'HECter' I was lucky as the oil was as clear as new oil and I didn't hesitate to try and get its engine running.

Years ago, I got running a old diesel David Brown tractor that had been abandoned for about ten years in a old silage pit.
On checking it before it was started, I could see there wasn't any oil showing at all on the dip stick, so when I pulled the sump I found the residue had set rock hard.
Besides chipping out the rubbish in the sump, I had to remove and clean out the oil ways, pump and the pickup as the pump had seized with the solid dry crud.
Had I tried to turn that motor, the gears that drive the oil pump would have sha-ttered as the pump was not going to work at all.
.

[LoveB]

When I pulled the dip stick out it was still oil. on the lower level but still as smooth as oil should be.Obviously looked like it could use an oil change but didnt have any hints of sludge or residue. But I'll probably drop the sump atleast to be sure.

and yeah, when its running I'll chuck in lead substitute. But just to get it going in the garage I will probably just chuck regular unleaded in. When I tried to turn the engine it sounded healthy and had no head leaks and such. But yes, I'll chuck a pic of the dipstick up with the oil soon and I'll get to ordering a sump gasket to be sure. First I'll need to clean the gunk out of the underchassis to get to the screws! lol

[LoveB]

ps this is what I'm dealing with the clutch/ brake pedal. any thoughts?

Land rover series 1 brake and clutch pedal - YouTube

[chazza]

Lead substitute is a waste of money - Land Rovers were made with hardened seats for lousy fuel when they were new,

Cheers Charlie

[LoveB]

Ha good to know. Will just keep it running on regular fuel then

[LoveB]

So arthur has cylinders for 30 each, shoes for 45 per axle set, hose at 20 a piece. The master he can't fix so I'll have to take it to a brake repair place for a rebuild and new rubbers. Any suggestions? might check out that one in qbn when I'm back. But otehrwise is it wirth trying to find online? and would my lack of brakes most likely be solved by looking at those bits?

[mfc]

I recon you have a missing spacer or bent brake or clutch leaver .... Looks like there binding up on each other . There should be a grease nipple on the shaft as well . Put a big screwdriver between the brake and clutch and get someone to press the peddles . Could be a pivot in need of crc etc

[LoveB]

Thanks. Will check that out.

What do you reckon re brakes?

clr 4wd has the above listed.

roverparts has mostly the same but suggested I use the master from an S2. Transfer the rod from the S1 into the S2 and call it a day.

Or is it worth trying to get the master off first to see what I'm dealing with?

I think best route right now is to find out if its just a blockage at the end or what.

[mfc]

I'd sort the break peddle clutch issue first, and drop the sump and scrub it out, wash out the gauze in the 2 breathers and air filter.... ( it's an oil bath filter )
Spray the bejesus out of the fuel line bolts m colinder etc, then I'd look at the linkages on ur hand break and if there all there try and get that working ( there's a bolt on the hand brake drum backing disk ( passenger side) that adjusts it , you can hear a click every 1/4 turn .. Tighten it till it stops then back off 2 clicks....... That's it .
Then you have clutch and hand break. Then start thinking about getting fuel to engine
If its brake lines it's going to be a bitch to change them with the body on, so leave em 4 now... The master can be resleaved . And any brake place will bend up pipes cheepishly.

[mfc]

Type 86 inch into the search there's info on who resleaves masters in one rebuild thread . Smurfs is very good scallops to and ........... (I've forgotten but Chris is part of the nick)
Great inspiration and info
Cheers mark

[LoveB]

thanks.. already adjusted brake but the lever is crook so gotta get a new metal bit that tugs onto the actual lock...

rover wise didnt do too bad today. missus and i ended up buying a my13 d110. lol picking it up next week

[mfc]

Cool
Mines a 2002
Perhaps u shoulda got a 130 single cab and put the 86" on the back .......p)

[LoveB]

That would have worked for me as well! lol. I'll start updating again next week when I work on it. weather has been poor. I'll be down in melb on the weekend of march 8 with the 110 ;)

[LoveB]

Thinking of changing the thermostat as well... will the 2.25 one work with the 2l?

[mfc]

if you want me to have a look at that 3 man hood {$99 buck s 1 shop job}and grab some better pictures let me know cause i gotta go over there{close by} its got a dint but i cant tell if its bad. i looked at it but decided on canvas as ive a full hard top in the garage.
Alex the guy has far more bits than advertised and may be able to help with the buggered metal brake bit{get the part number and email him} also has a 3 bolt master {new old stock but round the 200 mark but listed as 80 inch{so best look at parts book or post up here to check} , might be better geting it resleaved as per arthurs idea,likley cheeper to} also has thermostats and wheel cyl's listed
also JayBoRover's post is dealing with brake issues on a 1955 atm
cheers mark

[LoveB]

Thanks mark... yeah if you could I'd appreciate it! it'd fit in the 110 on the way home! lol Going to sydney today to work on the old boy!

[Landy Smurf]

speaking of boy what is his name

[LoveB]

havent thought of it yet really! was thinking sarge! lol

the defender shall be named james after james bond! lol

took the seats off today, any of you have experience with reupholstering your own seats?


gonna buy croc jack and jackstands later and get the wheels off to see what the deal is with the brakes. hoping its just the end hoses or something. Will also get to cleaning the underchassis and removing surface rust on chassis and spraying rust converter/rust proofing.

took the tarp off the rear end too. looks fairly decent without it.

Raining at the moment so cant do any till it stops :(

[LoveB]

How do i remove the bit that tugs on the trans brake? It snapped so its too short to be pulled by the lever. Gonna have to replace it.

[mfc]

How do i remove the bit that tugs on the trans brake? It snapped so its too short to be pulled by the lever. Gonna have to replace it.


take a pic of it cause i cant think of what you mean {or part number}
ps pm me your email addy and if i get those pics tomorow ill send them

[LoveB]

Ill get pics up tomorrow.. How many liters of oil and what oil do i put it? 20w50 or is that too thick?

[wrinklearthur]

Ill get pics up tomorrow.. How many liters of oil and what oil do i put it? 20w50 or is that too thick?


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-uEPi7bxTsQNjFmZjkzMGItMzE5Yy00YzhiLTkyZGEtNTkwMzI3 YzM2NzQ5/edit?hl=en&pli=1

To bring up a detailed picture of this chart, click on the above link.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57245&stc=1&d=1362047919


...

[mfc]

i recon any oil at first{ theres a recent thread on" 1600 s1 engine oil whats correct......"}
i changed mine several times initialy {and scraped out the sump sludge} before putting in a clasic oil {penrite classis medium or light and penrite classis 90 w gear oil} ... the bigest difference was heaps less smoking and quieter engine , the gear oil however totaly transformed gear shifting...
I figure if its been sitting for dog knows how long clean it out with cheep oil and change after a few hours running rather than chemical flush

[LoveB]

Yeah was gonna buy cheap oil, get it running, move into shed then get wheels off. Going to supercheap to get crock jack and stands so i can investigate underchassis further.. Raining so hard in syd at the moment

[LoveB]

Just bought jack and jackstands.

batter, 5l penrite 20w50 oil and jerry can. lets try and get this beast going! lol

[mfc]

you might find youre oil presure light coming on at idle or at power off when hot {as in coasting to a stop sign}.....mine did this {still dose when i stopbut it was heaps worse with modern oils}....from what ive gleaned its not a terminal thing if its not on under load or acceleration..
scares the bejeasus outa me starting an old unrun engine...
but pull the sump first there will be a horror story of filth in there
also clean the oil filter screen ......easy a bolt and split pin..ps just reuse the sump gasket

when you post up broken brake pic could you get a shot of the two sockets on the top left of youre instriment panel from as close as u can get...cheers
ps grabing those cab pics tomorow lunchtime ...

[LoveB]

Thanks. been raining all day. only managed to buy petrol right now. Poured some into tank - key turned - no fuel pump buzz.... tried to start, nothing..

put some fuel down the carb, no bueno. I'm guessing I'm not getting any spark. I havent tested the spark yet. cant figure out how to get the screwdriver to short the leads to try.

What should I check? it cranks healthily still but no fire. Not even a cough like its trying.

so I think my main mission for tomorrow is trying to find spark... I might try and drop the sump if it doesnt rain tomorrow which I doubt will stop at this point in time... So maybe try and find out why I have no spark first!

when I turn the light switch on, the front parkers turn on. But no tail light and no headlights. Would the single fuse control both the headlights and the fuel pump? and do the park lights work through that fuse as well?

anyway yes, suggestions regarding how to go about finding spark please? whats the green light on the dash? it goes off when trying to crank then comes back on. red stays on which I guess is battery.

[drifter]

Green light is oil pressure light

[mfc]

the light issue will most likley be coroded or dirty plugs {the "butler lamps} or parkers come on in mone at the first turn of the switch.. re spark id find a drill bit or something thats the same size as the sparkplug , get someone to crank and hold the nail/drill/steel near 2 or 3 mm from the head and watch
{best done at dark}
you can just put the steel on youre tounge as long as youre pacemaker is positive to earth.........

[LoveB]

not sure if anyone will be around to help me. lol might just try grounding it on the body or something. or take a video of it. Hopefully I can get it started up tomorrow. lol

[wrinklearthur]

Thanks. been raining all day. only managed to buy petrol right now. Poured some into tank - key turned - no fuel pump buzz.... tried to start, nothing..

With the key on is there power to the coil and the fuel pump? The wires to check are the one's that comes out of the wiring loom.


put some fuel down the carb, no bueno. I'm guessing I'm not getting any spark. I havent tested the spark yet. cant figure out how to get the screwdriver to short the leads to try.

Pull the lead that goes to number one spark plug and push it onto another plug laying across the engine and you should be able to see the spark in the spark plug gap or use the spark plug out of number one cylinder.


when I turn the light switch on, the front parkers turn on. But no tail light and no headlights. Would the single fuse control both the headlights and the fuel pump? and do the park lights work through that fuse as well?

Ref; http://www.silverforce.co.uk/TB-UK/wire1.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=57278&stc=1&d=1362136351

1 trailer light socket
2 stop,tail lamps
3 snap connectors for trailer light
4 ammeter
5 petrol level gauge
6 headlamp main beam warning light
7 ignition warning light
8 panel lights
9 panel lights switch
10 speedometer
11 ignition and lightning switch
12 mixture control warning light
13 oil pressure warning light
14 oil pressure switch
15 windscreen wiper plug and socket
16 windscreen wiper
17 petrol tank level unit
18 stop lamp switch
19 inspection lamp sockets
20 RB106 voltage control box
21 SF5 fusebox with 35amp fuse
22 mixture control switch(at control)
23 mixture control thermostat switch at cylinder head
24 petrol pump
25 starter
26 starter solenoid switch
27 dynamo
28 horn
29 horn push and headlamp dipper switch (86 and 107)
29A horn push
29B headlamp dipper switch
30 junction box
31 12V battery (positive earth)
32 ignition coil
33 distributor
34 headlamps
35 main beam
36 dip beam
37 side lamps
38 snap connectors shown thus --[====]--



whats the green light on the dash? it goes off when trying to crank then comes back on. red stays on which I guess is battery.

No 13, Green is the oil pressure light and if it is going out at cranking speed, you have a engine that has good bearing clearances, you are in luck.

No 7, red is ignition, if that is on at cranking speed means there is power through the voltage regulator.
.

[mfc]

"With the key on is there power to the coil and the fuel pump? The wires to check are the one's that comes out of the wiring loom."

i can distinctly hear my pump "click" a few times as i first turn the key{perhaps tick is a better word....take the bonet off itll be easier to hear}
rig up a bulb with 2 wires {test light if you have one} one end to power wire 1 to a clean earth....if theres power at the pump itll light up

arthur had a good post about fixing fuel pumps on the side of the road...
another thought use a long peice of wire so its sparking up near the thermostat housing if ur on ur own

[LoveB]

Thanks guys. Up early today so im gonna check them all out today

[LoveB]

Had a better look around the engine bay, checked fuse and it was broken. as in not even slightly cut, but like there was nothing in the middle. put new fuse on and still no bueno. So I'm trying to move it into the garage now so I can open it up despite the rain and check on the wiring properly. even after the new fuse I get no clicks with the fuel pump. havent bothered to add more fuel to the carb cause I don thtink thats gonna help at this stage

[LoveB]

Tried to short dizzy cap. No bueno :(

[wrinklearthur]

Tried to short dizzy cap. No bueno :(

Have you checked that power is going to the coil yet?

.

[mfc]

unbolt the battery leads at the starter and block and clean them {im asuming you have a battery in.}
ps pics of cab sent that should cheer you up the dints are miniscule
as i said above get a bulb and holder and polk around with that could be somthing like the switch on dash is rooted{any dash lights come on at all}
if so do the same with fuel pump ,if power there and no spark arthurs coil tip is the next step . cheep to get them from a tractor joint that sells besco stuff
{ill dig out the link later but i have little sealed boxes with a packing date of 5/1953 to fondle,there better than porn infact i have the horn{deric and clive} shiney black new and expensive..

[LoveB]

Thanks boys. Got the pic mfc. Looks the goods. I might just grab it when I'm down in Melb next week.

Bought a multimeter... started out at battery 12v.. coil 12v distributor 12v but no spark on spark plug. What should I check? insides of dizzy look a little worn but I took the coil/dizzy off so I can get it checked or something. What do you guys think?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/830413_618181564864682_415842849_o.jpg

theres power up to that point. The rotor spins as it should. but no spark on spark plugs (although I did use a crap one to test but then if its sparking then it should fire up)

and Mfc, this is what I was talking about re: handbrake
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/830246_618181714864667_608550165_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/859953_618181828197989_931182704_o.jpg

its the bit that connects the lever to the actually pulley by the transmission brake. cut at the top so not long enough to be put back into the lever. cant figure out how to get it off yet.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/857883_618195878196584_1576926205_o.jpg

removed dizzy and coil. is there a way to check myself or do I take it to an elec or just try and find a new assembly?

[LoveB]

ps tried fuel pump and could not find power on it

[mfc]

absolutly no idea where that coil came from ive never seen one ..mine is just a regular coil shape...its not of a l r from 48 till 1958.....

now check for voltage on the other side of the capacitor under the dizzy cap
and you can grab any lead from supercrap and thin down the rubber ...its a push fit into the dizzy cap push a nail into the other end and check for spark lead by lead..{night is youre freind}

now hand brake rod....its held on by a split pin on the drum side {or just grease and filth......has it got a thread on the other end {it should } ill mesure mine 270 mm end to end{ive got no split pin but a bolt that removes the rod from the u shaped bit}
perhaps urs has snapped if theres no thread{could weld extra on and get it tapped if you cant get one....email hood man.......}
ps if ur getting that hood ull have to pass by my place so drop in and have a look to spot anything amiss in yourse ,its easier if you have an idea of how things should look /work...

[LoveB]

Yeah ill be in melb from this coming thursday upto tuesday i think. Ill definately pop by ;)

Yeah and from what ive seen the coil is something else. Should i just change the coil??

[mfc]

definatly change the coil, there verry finicky re coils and you cant just get them from an auto shop, hence the reference to the tractor parts shop{stuff for te grey fergies{same age as s 1's} search ignition coil and see what the experts say ,as theres something about how mutch voltage they put out. arthur might know.. id put the dizzy back in and replace the condensor then check leads{rebuilding it will cost a small fortune and its likley somthing so simple you cant see it....there is the option of electric replacements but no point spending 200 plus bucks when its either leads dizzy cap , capacitor or coil....
the capacitor you can get from repco/bursons etc ill find the part number later

[mfc]

my logic {very limited} says that if you have voltage at the dizzy bolt as in the pic, and the rotor goes around its between that bolt and the leads
capacitor points cap {have a good look for cracks or black /dark lines{tracking of elec where it shouldent be .then leads }get a cheepie for a 70's car and use that to test each lead {they pull out from memory but ill look in a bit} poke a nail in the other end{ie cut the end off} tie it up 5 mm from the block and crank then do the other 3
best to give alex an email and arange a time though cause hes hard to find at times.....likley he will have the stuff you need if given notice to find it {ie hand brake rod etc what he lists is bugger all of what he has.
also check 4wd in blackburn {terracotta ave}..they have an online catalogue as well..

id take a break from lucas its a nightmare..get on to the hand break rod see if you can get it off{did you mesure it?}. at least with that going its safe to move around without pushing it into the wall.{someone said that they move there 80 " around by putting it in low range and using the crank handle ....handy tip}

ht leads ...theres a smal grub screws inside the dizzy cap undo and the lead comes out.....youll likley have to trim the rubber of a little to get newer lead to fit{ive got old range rover leads in mine atm ,not ideal but they work till i find the right type}

[LoveB]

yeah I actually put it in low range today and used the hand crank to move it around. just pushed it into the garage at the last moment.

Yeah might try to fix the top lead. The coil I have no idea how to replace at the moment. I might just try and clean stuff around and replace condenser. what type condenser should I look at putting in? also what spark plugs should I get? I may as well replace them while I've got it apart. I'll do more research tonight though. hopefully sorted tomorrow

[mfc]

first of all i think you still have the su fuel pump on ur car pluss the other one?{round tubular mounted on firewall near all the throttle linkages}

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/158324-fuel-pump-rebuild.html
now condensor bosch but im giving you 2 part numbers one is for points that dont fit and the other is for the condensor under dizzy cap{if its buggered no voltage gets through {or to low a spark }
pn GL 10 F005X04626-4bg
pn GL 103 F005x04627-4bg Repco has or can order them in
{i Lucas LU 407050 contact set and the condenser:
Lucas LU 407044.}

i couldent get the lucus stuff but theres the parts numbers

proper hi tension leads link ..http://www.onlineautomotive.com.au/Narva-Copper-High-Tension-Cable-7mm

http://www.bareco.com.au/files-masseY2001-mf58 coil???? you will need the lucas parts numbers but im fairly shure of the coil theres an agent in queanbeyan

[LoveB]

thank you! I would guess its the condenser.. Hoping atleast. And yes, I've got two pumps. The original one and whatever new one they've put in.

Might try and head to supercheap later to see if they've got condensers and rotors that would work.

actually having a look at supercheap now they dont have any GL :( so might have to wait till I get out to repco. but is it worth trying out a different kind just to see if it'll sputter atleast?

[LoveB]

Tested inside distributor where coil goes and got 10.9v. I guess cause the battery is getting weak? Dso dizzy definately has the proper power.. Im guessing i should chabge condenser and button? Supercheap doesnt have the condenser i need but i might just try whichever one to try and get it to fire atleast

[LoveB]

Sorry double post

[andy_d110]

Tested inside distributor where coil goes and got 10.9v. I guess cause the battery is getting weak? Dso dizzy definately has the proper power.. Im guessing i should chabge condenser and button? Supercheap doesnt have the condenser i need but i might just try whichever one to try and get it to fire atleast

You will get a reduced voltage at the points connection on the dizzy as the voltage you are reading is back feeding through the coil.

This at least indicates that your coils primary winding is ok. If your knowledge of electrics is slim, a test light is far easier to diagnose with. Next step is to see if the points are operating electrically. They may open and close when you turn the engine over but they can oxidise over time an not allow current to flow through them. Rotate engine by hand until the points close, connect test light on ignition feed, disconnect coil connection from distributor, when the points are closed place your test light probe on the points connector on the side of the dizzy. When the points are closed the test lamp should light up, manually open the points and the test light should go out.

See how you go. PM me if you need more assistance.

Andy.

[LoveB]

Thank you. wont be able to work on teh car till next next week so I'll be doign a whole lot of research before then!!

[mfc]

for under 10 bucks replace condensor {order through repco....no chance at suppercrap imho give the points a verry light buff with fine wet and dry and look to see if there pitted burnt etc similar with rotor wash it out check for cracks or black likes{and a few droops lof oil down the tube, clean them up
its not the right coil for the car so order/find a knew one and re condensor they will read fine but often have untermitant faults
you cant just try what ever one cause you wont find one unless its out of a pommy car from the 30s to 50s grab a few leads from here if you drop by here ill chop up a set ,,,ive got dozens messing up the shed{order condensor through repco and itll be there wehen u get home{or bursons/auto barn and grab 4 plugs ...you need to remember that parts out of a 1950s lucas car are verry different from any local or modern caryoull need the right ones......bosch do a lucas type condenser its pn is one of the 2 numbers i posted above post the gl part numbers are the bosch and far better than pommy crud....alex has rotors dizzy caps points but give him notice if you want to drive away from them {likley got a functioning s hand lucas coil to...ffs i got a dash light in its original packaging from 1953 a new horn/dip center ,he even has new old stock pork pie lights so may have a red glass for youre d lights write down a list of things{brake rod......} u recon ull be needing and if you take the cab hell be able to tell you yess or that youre dreaming, also id grab a full gasket kit from 4wdls in blackburn

[mfc]

you can buy solid state su pump coppies but from what uve gleaned there real easy to fix and theres a gut in adelade that rebuilds them
personaly i shelled out 400 for a cloth loom and basicaly all youre wiring probs are over.....p;ug and play..... basicaly 57 yr old butchered british wiring would have made jack the ripper put away his knife

[LoveB]

Thanks buddy. yeah i'll definately swing by your place.. over the weekend probably! might order through repco today or tomorrow. supercrap obviously didnt have the condenser i need. leads might be stuffed. seem oxidised

[wrinklearthur]

Here is a service kit for '53 - '58 and a lot better price than the local rip off.

Service Kit for Land Rover Series 1 later 2.0 1953-58 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Service-Kit-for-Land-Rover-Series-1-later-2-0-1953-58-/330620963838?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cfa8b8bfe&_uhb=1#ht_2726wt_952)
.

[LoveB]

perfect!!! thank you arthur!!

[mfc]

bloody hell ,286 pages of cool ++ stuff !!!!!!
thanks heaps arthur.

[gromit]

Thanks buddy. yeah i'll definately swing by your place.. over the weekend probably! might order through repco today or tomorrow. supercrap obviously didnt have the condenser i need. leads might be stuffed. seem oxidised

I get condensors OK from Supercheap (can they be prosecuted under the trades description act because they aint 'super' and they certainly aint cheap !)

Bosch GL103 suits SI through to SIII (not sure about 6-cylinder though).


Colin

[LoveB]

Might check that out. but the link arthur posted is looking good!

[gromit]

Might check that out. but the link arthur posted is looking good!


I looked at the link and you might want to confirm the postage charges.

Locally 4x NGK plugs at $4.65 each
Points $5.50
Rotor arm $3
Condensor $7 (from memory)

Plugs & condensor from Superexpensive.
Points & rotor arm from 4-Wheel Drives.

'Lucas' boxes in the ebay listing add value but they would outsource the manufacture.
You would have to add postage for the points & rotor arm.



Colin

[LoveB]

No new updates yet... Sent an email off to s1shop but havent recieved a reply yet...

[mfc]

i suspect he may be on holidays as i emailed him a while ago and no reply yet..he's usualy fairly prompt..
itd be worth downloading the parts book from the blackburn guy as well,its realy handy to have around...
anyhow its not like theres not other stuff to fix /clean lol .

[JimUSA]

LoveB -- I see you are in Canberra and I am close by -- "almost" done with a restoration of a 1955 86" similar to yours. You are welcome to come by and take a look -- PM me and I will send me details.

[wrinklearthur]

No new updates yet... Sent an email off to s1shop but havent recieved a reply yet...
You can always save time by emailing several companies at the same time with the quote request.

.

[LoveB]

arthur, true that! I'lll be firing some off over the easter holidays!

Jim, PM sent..

[Landy Smurf]

i have not order from overseas but it is where i am looking to go. there is a lot of series 2 and later but finding s1 is a bit harder i will have a look over the w/e

[LoveB]

Righto time to find parts and get the landy running next week... still no reply from s1shop so i may just ring him today

[Landy Smurf]

Land Rover Series One Club - Links - Parts Suppliers (http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?action=links;cat=1)

[LoveB]

Thanks tony. Made contact with alex... might be taking a trip out to him... mark ive got your number and will give you a buzz

[mfc]

cool, text is often best were a black spot ,ill call back

[LoveB]

No worries. Will let you know if i end up coming by

[mfc]

Making any progress?
The whole parts chasing thing drives me crazy lol," i want it all and i want it now"
regards mark

[LoveB]

ive obviously been out of it for a while..

started work on the 29th of april and been to busy since. and the weekend i was back in sydney to work on it it was raining!!!

however Hi to the LRC members I met at the meeting tonight..
Once I get a towbar for the 110 I will be towing the landy back to canberra so I should be able to get it going soon :)

[mfc]

It's always a slow business ...,,all parts on hand and its a flash ..... Waiting waiting emailing with a 70% response ratio etc etc etc .......then next thing you know you're driving it into civic on sat night

[LoveB]

hopefully soon enough. was having a chat with one of the lrc members and i think im gonna be looking at a series 2 soon too. lol

[drifter]

See?

It's addictive!

It was great to catch up with you tonight.

[LoveB]

Likewise,John... you bet its addictive!!!

getting a towbar on the 110 soon so I'll be towing the s1 back down to canberra.. will definately be giving you guys a holler for some help!

[stevep]

and you guys go to the meeting - just when I was too lazy to go !!!:( sorry I missed it. maybe next month.

Steve

[mfc]

Damd ... It's only gunna get worse if you start on s11 's
Imlooking at a 40's ??? S1 just put out to pasture ( as in a year ago) should be interesting....

[LoveB]

yeah maybe not the s2 fo now... will finish S1 first then see how I go! lol

Steve, i'll be there next month :) looking forward to meeting you.


ok small update, I tried to pour a bit more fuel into the carb. didnt expect it to run as still no fire. but the fuel pump started clicking O_O I think it's bringing itself back to life. lol havent checked if it actually pumps fuel. But I would guess a few more goes and the pump will just kick over.


I need to get spark plugs and a condenser this week.

Btw, I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. any canberran have a spare dizzy cap/consdenser they want to sell? Also, the wire on top of the dizzy cap in the middle that goes to the spring/lead - the 'tube' thing it attatches to on the other end is crook i think. The wire just pulls out. lol ill post a pic up in a bit. i think after I replace that she'll be right to start.

[LoveB]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/981462_668482983167873_984316912_o.jpg

that one there... I mean I can get the wire back in but I dont think its attaching to anything because I'm getting 0 spark.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/966369_668483109834527_603241881_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/966704_668483066501198_1425586027_o.jpg

[wrinklearthur]

A quick way to test a coil is to use a pencil with the tip on the high voltage post of the coil and your thumb on the other end of the pencil and then with power on, touch the wire that normally goes to points on the engine. :D:twisted::angel::p:wasntme::imwithstupid::eek2:

That end on the coil is a screwed on cap, take it off and as you pull it apart keep a eye open for the little brass plate / washer that sits up against the post inside.

Push the lead through the hole in the cap, the wire core of the lead is fitted through that brass thing and the wire strands are then flared around and across the flat face, trim the length of the strands so they finish neat at the edge of the brass washer and replace the cap.

I'd go a little bit further and solder a dome of solder across the flared out wire strands. Place a very light smear of Vaseline around the end to stop corrosion starting.
.

[LoveB]

I cant even remove the cap?!?!?!!? how do I do it?!?

[123rover50]

Beats me:(
Never seen a coil like that before.
I think I would swap it for a normal coil. The screw cap ones are a bit short on the ground but the red ones work OK. Just paint them black.

[LoveB]

Same..i thought it was a diy with the butt end of a soda bottle. Lol ill try and pick one up within thr week..

[wrinklearthur]

That coil is pretty useless the way it is, so at the risk of breaking it, I would have a go at unscrewing the end and it is a right handed thread.

Hold the canister in a vice, with a large set of multigrips grab the end and show it no mercy. :twisted:
.

[LoveB]

I suppose if I'm getting a new coil I may as well try and open this with all I've got! hahahah will update on how much fun i have.


i mean if I can get it open lol

[mfc]

I cant even remove the cap?!?!?!!? how do I do it?!?

looks to be screw on to me from ur last photo......bakerlite is fragile when old ...try soaking a little kerro and oil around the join...{i dont think crc etc hurts it either } just dont lever or force it..
still got no idea what its off ...{throw nothing away lmao}

[LoveB]

WOWIE ZOWIE!!! 3 months since my last update!!!


anyway I'm back...

as for some updates... well I'll let this speak for itself..

Land rover series 1 coming to life - YouTube


ITS ALIVE ITS ALIVE!!!! (well not quite, but the doctor says he'll make it)

Rick came around and gave me a hand day before the LR expo in Sydney. Bought new coils and plugs... used my dizzy cap.. no fire. Found that my condenser wiring is knackered and grounding onto something. when we cleared the ground away he went! fired and purred (not quite lol)

But good to know the engine runs fine and healthy. everything else should be easy :)

Fuel pump ticks but doesnt get fuel up soooooo I may try and rebuild it.. Any links to where I can buy the rebuild kit for the SU's???

also got seats from the LR expo.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1236052_723010271048477_984292823_n.jpg

Thanks to rick for spotting them and thanks to the seller ( I didnt catch your name)...

I bought them within 5 minutes of arriving at the expo. LOL

I am now on the hunt for, brake lines (or brake rebuild kit)
condenser,
dizzy cap and leads
thermostat housing (I have a feeling I'm gonna have to cut mine off)
Oil Filter
hoops/canvas... I'll have a think of what else I need...

and now that the towbar is getting installed onto the 110 I can prepare to take the S1 back to Canberra and work on it...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1233401_722459721103532_251348475_n.jpg

just waiting for that day now! lol

[chazza]

I am now on the hunt for, brake lines (or brake rebuild kit)
condenser,
dizzy cap and leads
thermostat housing (I have a feeling I'm gonna have to cut mine off)
Oil Filter
hoops/canvas... I'll have a think of what else I need...


Bundy tube for brakes can be bought at any good automotive shop, but you will need a double-flaring tool as well. It is very easy to make your own brake pipes and an enjoyable exercise as well :D

Brake parts are readily available; try Paddock UK; Four Wheel Drives Melbourne; etc. Best thing is to google the part numbers.

The distributor cap was reproduced by the Series One Club UK, but when I enquired recently they said they had none; this may have been because I am not a member. However; the cap off a TEA Ferguson tractor apparently fits, except that the leads will point upwards unlike the original cap.

PM me I know a bloke who makes the thermostat housing :)

The oil filter tends to be a pain to change where it is located, so some people install a spin-on adapter for a modern filter. I have installed a remote bypass filter on mine, up high in the engine compartment where I can get to it.

Have a look at the Series One Club forum; there is chap there who makes good quality hoods - I think his forum name is Fifty-seven,

Cheers Charlie

[mfc]

The shop that had the ute cab in Vic has side entry dizzy caps advertised at the moment.... Not shure if there nos second hand or knock offs

Ps were you lead astray by the defender lol

[gromit]

Is the distributor cap the same as a Mini ?
Lucas Type 25D4 Distributor CAP Side Entry Mini Austin Morris MG ETC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lucas-Type-25D4-Distributor-Cap-Side-Entry-Mini-Austin-Morris-MG-etc-/140731249549?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c43c738d)


Colin

[mfc]

Apparently not.... But that's from someone selling the Lucus ones.... I think the mini ones work , but not shure how well

I guess if the main dizzy number is the same they should work

[LoveB]

Mini ones are similar apparently... yes i was sort of led astray by the defender lol

in other news its finally back home...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/598586_731362556879915_2070498925_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/993728_731297860219718_1355672049_n.jpg

well 30 mins from home... better than 3 hours. Now I can work on it on weekends :)

and somehow... during my trip to sydney to pickup the s1....

this came about lol

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/537235_730749860274518_486667733_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1374320_730750346941136_209451939_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1377960_731228486893322_1918787465_n.jpg

[mfc]

Apparently it's the exit of the leads that are different on the mini version.... The mini rotor works FYI ....you might have the same dizzi as me , if so the points are different from most s ones

[LoveB]

I'll take some snaps when I go back to work on it... its working so far though. I may just need new leads as the ones ive got are sort of melted. lol

now on the hunt for fuel pump or rebuild kit.

The brakes I may try and do sometime soon

[mfc]

Try Repco ....narva 7mm copper core ign lead....... They may try and sell you 30 meters,but if they get on there comp they can find it by the meter at other rc stores. I've used old rangie leads at a pinch..as well as rc coils

[LoveB]

UPDATE TIME!!!!

to start the day off nicely, rick told me he had some small bits for the S1 which he picked up in melbourne whilst he was down..
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1378818_738305766185594_1904858931_n.jpg

SCORE!

always good to put wrench time in with an inspiration nearby! this is Rick's S1... engine currently going a rebuild.

tried to suss out the fuel pump..

it looked like the original one but further investgation shows its a 'harting' which we found is a german brand... it's the same as the SU as the SU points worked on it!!...

however the trouble we're having iwth it is when the bottom is off, it will click and pump fine. When the bottom is on, it wont pump at all. We've tried adjusting it. but no go at all. It clicks a bit but not enough to pump at all... Can anyone guide me on how to adjust it? or should I just rebuild/buy another? its like 80 pounds for a new one though.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/539679_738505399498964_1196507136_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1391954_738505472832290_2086482032_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1375662_738505532832284_441823783_n.jpg

But luckily for me there was another fuel pump in the engine bay (not original) which we managed to get to work... Changed some fuel lines as it was spilling and added some gaskets so the fuel no longer spills...

But you obviously know what it means when the fuel pump works right??

Land Rover Series 1 first time running on its own power - YouTube (http://youtu.be/M1MPM60aODk)

BOOOYAAHHHHHHHHHHHh
its officially alive and running on its own power. The fuel pump works. (well atleast the temporary one in there) the ignition is fine, the generator charges up as it should...

HECK THE HORN AND HEADLIGHTS WORK AFTER BEING PARKED FOR 28 YEARS!!!! lol blows a bit of smoke and I need to investigate the chugging in the engine ( I was told worst case could be a bent valve but changing it out isn't too hard I've been told) But I'm not complaining...

I also got around to changing the rod for the hand brake which now works. That means I can drive the car up to his shed and start working on the brakes. :) I'm just on the hunt or brake parts now and I'm about to start ordering bits here and there.... But otherwise... today I'm a VERY HAPPY BOY.

I think for the price I got this its turning out REALLY GOOD. I have no plans of touching the body. I just want it drivable and road registered. Keep it as original as I can.

BTW transmission is fine. So is the clutch. I was able to move it around forward and back without any drama. :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1395327_738507322832105_1579122123_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1383378_738507366165434_843537697_n.jpg

Before I bid him farewell until his new parts arrive.

i took the brake master off to get it rebuilt too.

[mfc]

re youre su "like" fuel pump heres a few pdf's that may assist in geting it up and going.. SU Fuel Pump Articles (http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/sufuelpumparticles.html)
Fuel Sender Repair (http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et214.htm)
might be serviceable yet
cheers mark

[Brad110]

I repaired mu SU just for the novelty. It is too worn to be robust so I took the valves out and use a modern exec pump in line by the tank.

Good luck with it. They have a name for un reliability but it's the inactivity between uses, and reincarnations that kill them. In reality you wouldn't expect any component with moving parts and a diaphragm to work for 60 years.

[LoveB]

right, time to get this old boy on the road soon. been on hiatus again for sometime. I just stareted work for JLR and was advised by our parts dept that we can still get parts for it so depending on the price the parts come to I might tow it into work on saturday and get it going!

[101RRS]

I just stareted work for JLR

Does that mean we can pick on you or poke fun at you at LR club meetings?:)

[LoveB]

Does that mean we can pick on you or poke fun at you at LR club meetings?:)



possibly... it was afterall a better offer than my last job. and so far it seem sto be all good. i had mine serviced today and they did more than they had to :p


and my saving grace is i get to see/drive the new models too. lol but yes, even they said it's probably hard to get even half the club to come in for a service! lol

[LoveB]

towed the old boy into work. should start to get fun :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1920541_833272966688873_1971196201_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1017442_833273063355530_159775423_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1898281_833231076693062_82190700_n.jpg

[slug_burner]

Well done. I have had my 80" for many more years and made much less progress.

[LoveB]

I'm having some issues with my fuel pump again...

When I've got the pump out on its own and connect it straight to the battery it seems to click correctly and work as it should but when i have it hooked up to the wiring it seems to only click very slowly if it clicks at all. Last october when I had it running it was on the same pump and same wiring. When I got back to it now it only clicked very little but almost not enough to get the fuel sucked up.

What sohuld I be looking at? I tried an afetrmarket pump that I got from another s1 restorer (he said it was working) for 20$ but it appears to be cactus as well. Plugged straight to the battery and no bueno.

so im not sure if I should just plug the wiring directly to the battery for now to atleast get it to pump petrol? or is that a bad idea? i only need it to run enough so I can move it around the workshop then I'll worry about getting the right pump etc. just stumped as to why

[JDNSW]

Find and fix the bad electrical connection. A voltmeter should help.

John

[Hartley]

Check the earthing

[russellrovers]

Check the earthing
hi there a guy in nsw who rebuilds them lost his details jim

[LoveB]

Found a brand new piston and rubbers for 100$.


getting my master cylinder resleeved for 85-100$. YES!

now to get everything else I need

[LoveB]

Your thoughts please... for the following parts,
bnew rubbers/piston
carby rebuild kit
brake hoses and brake lines
wheel cylinders
drums
shoes
brake fluid reservoir
thermostat
thermostat gasket
top bottom rad hose


would you pay 1395 for said items posted to you?? just wondering if it seems in th eright region (as im clueless)

[chazza]

Your thoughts please... for the following parts,
bnew rubbers/piston Don't understand what you mean.
carby rebuild kit Try Gower & Lee in the UK
brake hoses and brake lines
wheel cylinders
drums
shoes
brake fluid reservoir
thermostat
thermostat gasket
top bottom rad hose


would you pay 1395 for said items posted to you?? just wondering if it seems in th eright region (as im clueless)

It depends if you are a rivet-counter or not, I suppose, but the following may help:
1. The shoes and drums for a S2,3 will fit and are available from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne for a reasonable price. They also sell S2 wheel cylinders and an adaptor - or you could have your original ones re-sleeved in stainless.

2. Ring around the brake places in the city of your choice, and they will make new hoses for you, if you give them a sample.

3. Try this chap for the reservoir - there are quite a few reproductions out there nowadays. John Wearing Rover Parts items - Get great deals on Rover P4, Land Rover Series 1 items on eBay Stores! (http://stores.ebay.com.au/John-Wearing-Rover-Parts?_rdc=1)

Cheers Charlie

[worane]

I just love this post. It is like reading "Time Team"
Makes me want to restore my old J 20 Jeep.

[wrinklearthur]

When I've got the pump out on its own and connect it straight to the battery it seems to click correctly and work as it should but when i have it hooked up to the wiring it seems to only click very slowly if it clicks at all. Last october when I had it running it was on the same pump and same wiring. When I got back to it now it only clicked very little but almost not enough to get the fuel sucked up.

Assuming you have turned the diaphragm around to the correct position, set to where the points open when the center of the diaphragm is pushed with your thumb ( plus you must keep turning the diaphragm four holes past that point where this action of the points opening first starts to take place ).

It reads like now you haven't got the diaphragm tension not set properly.

To fix that tension you need a match stick, with the body of the pump taken off the base, push your thumb in the center of the diaphragm to open the points and then place the match stick under the rocking part of the points between that and the body of the pump, this can be a bit fiddly to do, but as long as the shaft from the points to the diaphragm is held forward.

Then screw the body back onto the base, after the match stick is pulled out the diaphragm should have near enough to the correct tension.
.

[LoveB]

expect an update soon. Since I fired it up at work its been sitting since. lol! I'm gonna get this boy running soon mark my words. I need a series on the road!!

[LoveB]

I remember speaking to someone on here who could trace vin numbers to their history??

I remember being told this was first sold to a brokerage company. Sold out of Yass I think. Then it was donated to the fire brigade.

anyone know who the member is or how I can further trace its history?


Sorry nevermind. its bobslandies

Vehicle No. 47662235; Engine no. 47108910; PTO (fitted with centre Power Take Off); Key 558; supplied to Winchcombe Carson (probably for a customer) by Grenville Motors on 27.8.54. Not registered in Sydney like your other one so no registration plate details.
Probably passed on to the Mulbring BFB in later life.

Bob

[LoveB]

Finally got off my butt and picked up the resleeved master cylinder

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/54.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/55.jpg