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LoveB
27th February 2013, 01:26 PM
Alrighty, as i have posted recently, picking up a bnew sept 2012 build 110 in orkney gray.So I thought I'd post my questions here to avoid cluttering up this section!!

I've yet to pick it up, probably in a day or two, so some questions to get out of the way,

1.What should I check as soon as I pick it up? obviously I'm not expecting anything to be broken. but I've read some posts about some hoses sticking to clamps and pulleys which cause them to blow out after sometime. Anything specific to look at?

2. seeing as it'll mostly be a canberra/melbourne and occational sydney car, should I bother with getting it rust proofed? I doubt I will be driving over the beach or the likes so yeah.

3. With regards to the EGR, is the fuel saved that noticable if its turned off compared to having it on? if so, is there a tune for the 2.2 out? and lastly, will it void my warranty to get a tune done??

4. What other things should I look at later down the road? want to avoid water and dust ingress if possible... my wife is using the 110 too so I'd like to make suer she doesnt despise it. lol

5. with regards to servicing, do you guys follow the 20k km or do 10/5km intervals?

6. any way to make the steering angle better? as in like increase its angle at full lock or should I just suck it up and learn to live with it?

I'll get on here with more questions once I think of them!

looking at getting NAS spec leds,projector headlights and maybe a led bar, looking for a towbar and sidesteps!

ezyrama
27th February 2013, 02:15 PM
Alrighty, as i have posted recently, picking up a bnew sept 2012 build 110 in orkney gray.So I thought I'd post my questions here to avoid cluttering up this section!!

I've yet to pick it up, probably in a day or two, so some questions to get out of the way,

1.What should I check as soon as I pick it up? obviously I'm not expecting anything to be broken. but I've read some posts about some hoses sticking to clamps and pulleys which cause them to blow out after sometime. Anything specific to look at?

2. seeing as it'll mostly be a canberra/melbourne and occational sydney car, should I bother with getting it rust proofed? I doubt I will be driving over the beach or the likes so yeah.

3. With regards to the EGR, is the fuel saved that noticable if its turned off compared to having it on? if so, is there a tune for the 2.2 out? and lastly, will it void my warranty to get a tune done??

4. What other things should I look at later down the road? want to avoid water and dust ingress if possible... my wife is using the 110 too so I'd like to make suer she doesnt despise it. lol

5. with regards to servicing, do you guys follow the 20k km or do 10/5km intervals?

6. any way to make the steering angle better? as in like increase its angle at full lock or should I just suck it up and learn to live with it?

I'll get on here with more questions once I think of them!

looking at getting NAS spec leds,projector headlights and maybe a led bar, looking for a towbar and sidesteps!

1/Check the turbo hose is fitted correctly and tight, sometimes it is on too tight an angle and comes off. The check engine light comes on and ruins your trip when you have to get it flat topped back to the dealer for reset of the ECU. There are 2 heater hoses under the right hand side of the motor that have a tendancy to rub together if fiited too close in the factory.

2/Dont worry about rustproofing if that's all your doing.

3/Cant comment on the EGR (DUNNO) Dont give the dealership any excuse to void your warranty with a ECU upgrade.

4/The ones out since October 2011 have a better lower door seal than previous vehicles.As yet dust hasnt been a problem at all. I can see a little bit of daylight in the front pass. corner, but I just tell SWMBO it's to let the water out:D

5/First service is 13k and the second is 26k, thats as far as I have almost got (12months old and 18km later)

6/Suck it up Princess :D:D You'll get used to it and it's actually quite comfy when you put your left foot up on the handbrake whilst cruising around.(no not the wife;))

Cheers Ian

LoveB
27th February 2013, 02:23 PM
Thank you. I'll be checking those hoses as soon as I get it! I'll probably leave it stock for a while as it'll have warranty anyway. but might as well try and avoid rupturing hoses while its early!

taking a bus to sydney tomorrow so hopefuly pics on the weekend! Dont mind a bit of light, so long as water and dust is kept out! lol I'll just get the missus used to turning more as well... she's coming from a saab 900 which she loves and has never let her down till recently so lets hope the puma can try atleast! lol

ezyrama
27th February 2013, 02:59 PM
Thank you. I'll be checking those hoses as soon as I get it! I'll probably leave it stock for a while as it'll have warranty anyway. but might as well try and avoid rupturing hoses while its early!

taking a bus to sydney tomorrow so hopefuly pics on the weekend! Dont mind a bit of light, so long as water and dust is kept out! lol I'll just get the missus used to turning more as well... she's coming from a saab 900 which she loves and has never let her down till recently so lets hope the puma can try atleast! lol

I had water coming up over the bonnet on the Australia Day weekend whilst 4wding and no water got into the cab except for when the doors were open, it was persisting down!
Enjoy the drive home in the new toy. It's the only car that's ever put a smile on my face everytime I drive it.
Cheers Ian

LoveB
27th February 2013, 03:13 PM
Oh I will! :p I'll be checking on the S1 and doing some work to it in Sydney frist then driving home, then melbouren next week... perfect chance to break the engine in!

krispe
27th February 2013, 04:28 PM
Alrighty, as i have posted recently, picking up a bnew sept 2012 build 110 in orkney gray.So I thought I'd post my questions here to avoid cluttering up this section!!

I've yet to pick it up, probably in a day or two, so some questions to get out of the way,

1.What should I check as soon as I pick it up? obviously I'm not expecting anything to be broken. but I've read some posts about some hoses sticking to clamps and pulleys which cause them to blow out after sometime. Anything specific to look at?

2. seeing as it'll mostly be a canberra/melbourne and occational sydney car, should I bother with getting it rust proofed? I doubt I will be driving over the beach or the likes so yeah.

3. With regards to the EGR, is the fuel saved that noticable if its turned off compared to having it on? if so, is there a tune for the 2.2 out? and lastly, will it void my warranty to get a tune done??

4. What other things should I look at later down the road? want to avoid water and dust ingress if possible... my wife is using the 110 too so I'd like to make suer she doesnt despise it. lol

5. with regards to servicing, do you guys follow the 20k km or do 10/5km intervals?

6. any way to make the steering angle better? as in like increase its angle at full lock or should I just suck it up and learn to live with it?

I'll get on here with more questions once I think of them!

looking at getting NAS spec leds,projector headlights and maybe a led bar, looking for a towbar and sidesteps!

1. As per previous reply, Intercooler and water hoses checked.
2. Not really. Just make sure you have it checked at the dealer and signed off as per the warranty.
3. A Tune for the 2.2 has been developed but is only available in the UK as yet and they are not a a stage to close the EGR. Will void warranty, and if the dealer updates ECU, the tune is lost.
4. If not taking it off road there is probably nothing to do.
5. I do my engine oil every 5k, but other than that as per manual which is 20k.
6. You can have the steering stops adjusted this does make it marginally better than the QEII. :):)

Kris

ezyrama
27th February 2013, 04:37 PM
1. As per previous reply, Intercooler and water hoses checked.
2. Not really. Just make sure you have it checked at the dealer and signed off as per the warranty.
3. A Tune for the 2.2 has been developed but is only available in the UK as yet and they are not a a stage to close the EGR. Will void warranty, and if the dealer updates ECU, the tune is lost.
4. If not taking it off road there is probably nothing to do.
5. I do my engine oil every 5k, but other than that as per manual which is 20k.
6. You can have the steering stops adjusted this does make it marginally better than the QEII. :):)

Kris

QE11, Does that relate to the turning circle????:p:p:p:p:p:p

PAT303
27th February 2013, 05:10 PM
Don't forget the first service,that one is very important,otherwise drive it and don't listen to ANYONE who doesn't own a defender.Another good point is don't listen to ANYONE who doesn't own a defender. Pat

Loubrey
27th February 2013, 05:17 PM
Very well done and sure you will enjoy it as much we all do!:D

Agree with all the comments below, especially not fiddling with the ECU and anything it controls while in warranty.

If you are going to be doing low km's just keep in mind that warranty requires a maximum of 6 months between services. By the time mine had it's third service it had only done 18,000km! I've sort of caught up since and I stick to 10,000km intervals.

Puma's (2.2 even more than 2.4) have really much improved door seals and unless yours are particularly "quirky", dust and rain should not be an issue. Mine occasionally (after the beach especially) goes though the local "Laser Wash" which is just a set of very powerful water jets and it doesn't leak anywhere. It rinses the chassis and body over and under and after 3 years I've got no issue with rust (living next to the sea in WA).

Cheers,

Lou

Lagerfan
27th February 2013, 06:28 PM
It's the only car that's ever put a smile on my face everytime I drive it.


This is just sooooo true, we're new to the Defender world ourselves (long-time fans) and only had our 90 for 4 weeks but the grin just will not fade!!!

Had no issues so far, only one blown fuse which I suspect happened when we got the towbar fitted. Speaking of which follow the advice in the tow bar thread here and you'll save $$$ + get a genuine LR part.

Also interested in any advice on when to do that first service, as a MY13 the dealer (and log book) say 12months or 20k but I would probably go sooner.

101RRS
27th February 2013, 06:43 PM
3. With regards to the EGR, is the fuel saved that noticable if its turned off compared to having it on?

While you EGRs are working they have no impact on your fuel consumption. To over simplify a bit, they only operate on trailing throttle when you are not on power.

Garry

Cracka
27th February 2013, 07:01 PM
A 'tune' for the 2.2 has only JUST become available see here Defender2 - View topic - Defender 2.2TDCi Remap Tuning Ready! (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic18631.html)
some pretty impressive figures. Yes I am led to believe your warranty will be void for anything driveline related.

LoveB
27th February 2013, 08:31 PM
Yes thats what I was looking at... 150hp/440nm tq seems to be pretty good.

Again thanks for the input. Learn something new everyday! hopefully picking it up by friday at this stage. Will report back with you guys then.


Also, I read increasing steering angles make it worse for the boots? if so I'll just learn to suck it up and adjust! been a fan for a long time. Test drove the 110 last weekend and was instantly sold!

and just a bit more info, it'll be a sept 2012 build orkney gray puma. 7 seater. dual finish wheels and mtr tyres.. tint, interior and exterior protectant applied. cant wait. lol

PAT303
27th February 2013, 09:26 PM
Another thing is I've got a Tdi and a TDCi and I needed seat rails from Mulgo for the TDCi.My MTR's were shredded after 40K and IMHO are crap,you'll find they are very noisy so drop the pressures to 36 front 34 rear unloaded and that will help.Personally I would ask for them to be swapped for the Continentals before delivery. Pat

PAT303
27th February 2013, 09:27 PM
This is just sooooo true, we're new to the Defender world ourselves (long-time fans) and only had our 90 for 4 weeks but the grin just will not fade!!!

Had no issues so far, only one blown fuse which I suspect happened when we got the towbar fitted. Speaking of which follow the advice in the tow bar thread here and you'll save $$$ + get a genuine LR part.

Also interested in any advice on when to do that first service, as a MY13 the dealer (and log book) say 12months or 20k but I would probably go sooner.

I did mine at 6K. Pat

gcl381
27th February 2013, 09:47 PM
Something unusual that might be worth checking - I didn't notice that my front passenger seat did not slide all the way back on the rail due to fouling the seat belt clip bracket. It was a simple fix but given it was a seat belt I didn't want to go fiddling around too much. Thought it was pretty ordinary that no one between England and me picked it up, but then I didn't notice for a few days either....

Also check the little plastic grill where the air intake is on the front right guard. Mine fell off after a few weeks. It's an amazing thing - all the other plastic guards are screwed in and the tubework and gasket under the grill are fixed pretty securely but the only thing holding the grill in is 5 or 6 piddly little plastic pins. I'm sure it will break and fall off again - they can keep replacing it until it's out of warranty and then I'll fix it properly.


My dealer's happy to do 10K servicing regardless of what the book says. There seems to be a lot of variation on this.

First time defender for me & I'd have to agree with the others - every drive's a joy (and you'll get used to the turning circle).

Cheers,

Gav

jimr1
27th February 2013, 10:19 PM
Oh I will! :p I'll be checking on the S1 and doing some work to it in Sydney frist then driving home, then melbouren next week... perfect chance to break the engine in!
Hi congradulations on your new Defender 110 ,usually we run the engine in try not to ( break the engine in ).good luck jimr1 :D:D..

LoveB
27th February 2013, 10:45 PM
pfffffffffft! :p yes I mean run the engine in hahahahah


I'll have to double check the tyres actually. Not 100% sure if MTR or conti's. lol all i really remember is its coming with the dual finish wheels.

beefy
27th February 2013, 10:53 PM
Couple of points. The 2.2 doesn't need as 10k oil changes and it a dpf engine not an egr engine. The the oil will remain clean for a longer time as the crap is not being dumped back in to the oil. You are plan are just wasting money and oil.

You can not turn the dpf off and if you do you could be fined up to one millo dollars so don't do it.

I have one it's 6 weeks old and love it to death.

LoveB
27th February 2013, 10:58 PM
Stock sounds good to me! thanks!

krispe
27th February 2013, 11:10 PM
A 'tune' for the 2.2 has only JUST become available see here Defender2 - View topic - Defender 2.2TDCi Remap Tuning Ready! (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic18631.html)
some pretty impressive figures. Yes I am led to believe your warranty will be void for anything driveline related.

And is only available in the UK at the moment.

muddy
27th February 2013, 11:54 PM
One thing that hasn't been bought up is it was built sept 2012 BUT it should have x/2013 compliance plate. Check on rego and insurance what year is addressed as it can mean say on full insurance new replacement what year is going to be replaced plus other factors

LoveB
28th February 2013, 05:42 AM
sept 2012 build, this month first rego I suppose? but I'll double check! it did say MY12 though.

Cracka
28th February 2013, 06:18 AM
And is only available in the UK at the moment.

Yes I see that as he needs to have the ECU physically at hand.....

Cracka
28th February 2013, 06:49 AM
Couple of points. The 2.2 doesn't need as 10k oil changes and it a dpf engine not an egr engine. The the oil will remain clean for a longer time as the crap is not being dumped back in to the oil. You are plan are just wasting money and oil.

You can not turn the dpf off and if you do you could be fined up to one millo dollars so don't do it.

I have one it's 6 weeks old and love it to death.

They all have EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve) in place. Its purpose is to divert some of the exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber to apparently reduce emissions. These gases can sometimes, apparently, cause sticking problems/jamming open/closed, which I reckon is right when you see the amount of soot at the end of your tailpipe. When you switch your engine off (in a quiet place) you should be able to hear the EGR going through its cleaning cycle, its 5 chucka chucka chucka chucka chucka like sounds. I couldn't at first but I tried it in the garage with the bonnet open and now I have heard it, I can hear it normally. It can be disabled with some of the 'tunes' ECU remaps, as that is where it is controlled from.

The DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is a physical honeycomb type structure in the exhaust system which traps exhaust 'crap' so to speak, when it nears capacity the dash light illuminates and the vehicle needs to be driven at basically highway speed for 20 mins or so to get the the thing hot enough to burn it out.

I have a MY12 90 which from what I can see does not have a DPF fitted. Beefy, have you had a look to see if you have 1 fitted, if so where abouts is it? All I can see in my system is the catalytic converter just downstream of the turbo.

I bought mine with about 8000 kms on it and had the dealer in Sydney do an oil and filter change anyhow (castrol edge preffessional). Even now with nearly 12000 kms on it I can hardly see the oil on the dipstick it is that clean. When I first checked it I thought the oil was low, I had to get the dipstick with the right amount of light reflecting on the it to be able to see the oil.;)

There has been lots of threads about oil types and it appears the extended service intervals are due to the classification of the oil needed in the Puma engine.

I am no mechanic by any means and this info I have gleaned from both this and other forums and then researching that information.

Hope this helps.

newhue
1st March 2013, 05:25 AM
LoveB enjoy your day. There is something very special about picking up a new truck, and perhaps more so for a Defer. These cars end up consuming your life and become almost as important as the rest of the family.

Have a slow oogle over it when you get home. The dealer shouldn't miss anything but they do. Just note it down and they will attend to it first service.
I hope the wife takes to it. Mine only likes to drive it home after a party when I can't.

Oil, ask the dealer. Older school will have it more regularly, but new school technology does funny things. Who would have thought so much power could come from a small motor. Others will say that small motor won't last, but not many of us try and get five hundred to a million out of any motor. If your doing highway km then longer oil changes are probably fine.
Mine was 12K, but I rounded it to 10K service for ease or memories sake.

mfc
1st March 2013, 05:45 AM
1/Check the turbo hose is fitted correctly and tight, sometimes it is on too tight an angle and comes off. The check engine light comes on and ruins your trip when you have to get it flat topped back to the dealer for reset of the ECU. There are 2 heater hoses under the right hand side of the motor that have a tendancy to rub together if fiited too close in the factory.

2/Dont worry about rustproofing if that's all your doing.

3/Cant comment on the EGR (DUNNO) Dont give the dealership any excuse to void your warranty with a ECU upgrade.

4/The ones out since October 2011 have a better lower door seal than previous vehicles.As yet dust hasnt been a problem at all. I can see a little bit of daylight in the front pass. corner, but I just tell SWMBO it's to let the water out:D

5/First service is 13k and the second is 26k, thats as far as I have almost got (12months old and 18km later)

6/Suck it up Princess :D:D You'll get used to it and it's actually quite comfy when you put your left foot up on the handbrake whilst cruising around.(no not the wife;))

Cheers Ian

ian i thought it was just me re point 6.......

best thing comfort wize {and peace of mind } is an ex box from mulgo,
raises the cubby box up 3 inches {feels abought the same as elbow on a bar} so you dont have to strain youre self resting youre arm on the cubby box
{and gets all youre electrics out from under youre seat further away from water}
"not only that but we will throw in free underseat storage"

BilboBoggles
1st March 2013, 12:58 PM
Apparently service intervals in Australian MY13 onwards defenders are now 20,000k's.

I suppose there must be some magic engine oil.
Personally I would not trust the fuel filter to last that long without checking for water.

Also I don't know why but my My13 is still bone dry on the inside even after a heap of rain. I've not seen a defender ever that was this dry! I reckon they have changed the seals or the process for applying them.

Just goes to show - this new My13 is the best one i've owned to date.

ezyrama
1st March 2013, 01:13 PM
I think the reason they stay dry-ish inside now is because you have air conditioning thats a bit more powerful than an asthmatic blowing thru a straw and that kinda pressurize's it ;). The bottom door seals have changed, but you can still see a bit of daylight in the front corner of my passenger door rubber. The only thing I find is the rear windows actually wind themselves down fractionally after a week or so.

BTW, LoveB, where's the Pic's, you cant have a new car without photos, them's the rulz!!!!!

Tombie
1st March 2013, 02:48 PM
Don't forget the first service,that one is very important,otherwise drive it and don't listen to ANYONE who doesn't own a defender.Another good point is don't listen to ANYONE who doesn't own a defender. Pat

Awww c'mon Pat...

I like them, and don't drive one any-more :p I still drive by a mates place with a shiny Grey 130 DC TDCi in the driveway and admire it.

To the OP:
They are a great unit, just keep an eye out, learn how the vehicle feels and you'll know if it ever does have something going a little funny.

Once you feel the vehicle - you will know it.

No need to over maintain it - that's all the short service intervals will be doing - wasting good oil.
Just service it by the book (which includes shorter intervals for heavy use - EG. I would service before and after a long desert trip)

ReMaps via the BAS interface can be removed prior to visits to Dealer so no warranty risk, and a great Fault Code reader included in the tool.

Blocking the EGR will help engine longevity, performance and economy.

Most of all - Enjoy it.... And Wave to ALL other Land Rovers you see...

LoveB
1st March 2013, 03:23 PM
Been waiting for a call from the sales agent and was just told now he left for the states yesterday for a vacation :rofl: perhaps he just wanted his cut from the sale then left. lol

bit ****ed but all good. Been out and about all day in a disco4 tdv6 (my relatives and I enjoy our rovers obviously) so hopefully that gets sorted fast. waiting for sales manager to ring me


spoke to manager, probably wont be getting it till monday at this stage so a bit more excitement to go through lol

PAT303
1st March 2013, 05:48 PM
Tas a bit slack,another will come along,just remember don't listen to non defender owners,especially D4 owners:twisted:. Pat

LoveB
4th March 2013, 12:14 PM
so closeeeeeeeeeeeeee

got a call today. car should be ready by wed.. just having some rego problems!

LoveB
13th March 2013, 09:31 AM
howdy, few more questoins i thought i would post in here rather than start a new thread...


tyre pressures, what do you guys run? card on the door says 30 up front and 48 on the rear for my application. When I checked they had all at 40. left the fronts at 40 for now and put the rears up to 48. Should I bother lowering the fronts to 30? seems a bit low?


also, what are your 'shift points' - obviously it wont be as frugal as the saab, but was wondering what revs you guys prefer to shift at... I usually shift up at 2100 - 2500 but as otehrs have said it seems to be flat under 2000... if so should i be keeping it above 2000? on some shifts it only goes down about 500rpm so 2500-2000. but otherwise it goes down to about 1800 or so.

LoveB
13th March 2013, 02:10 PM
also is 'low' supposed to light up as soon as i shift into low range or do I need to drive around first?

sniegy
13th March 2013, 02:29 PM
Tyre pressures it's a personal thing, find what is comfortable for you. But around or just above factory pressures is fine.

Low range light.....Ahh there is none, so you can stop driving now ;-) there is a Diff lock light tho'.
Hint, when changing between hi/low & in/out of diff lock, having vehicle at walking pace saves a lot of headaches & be firm when engaging/disengaging lever.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

LoveB
13th March 2013, 02:30 PM
i see a low sign on the cluster with the mountain photo but doesnt light up. i guess its just there lol. no worries. all good then. i find 40 front/48 rear to be good.

sniegy
13th March 2013, 02:34 PM
I have never noticed !?

Will have a look tomorrow.

;-)

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Loubrey
13th March 2013, 06:16 PM
i see a low sign on the cluster with the mountain photo but doesnt light up. i guess its just there lol. no worries. all good then. i find 40 front/48 rear to be good.

Mountain Photo... Low Sign...:eek::eek::eek:

Is this something new in the 2013 Puma 2.2's?

My 2.4 has the "normal" Defender diff lock light (same since 1983) and the TC light for when things are a bit slippy (not since 1983:D).

Very curious and interested in these apparent extra signs and lights and potential features!

Cheers,

Lou

LoveB
13th March 2013, 07:41 PM
its on the lower part of the tachometer. theres a reading that says 'low' with an image of a mountain behind it. its a sept 2012 build so may very well still be a 2012. But diff lock light I have and tc I'm sure. Never used it yet though. But I'll take a picture of the low light I see!

LoveB
18th March 2013, 12:52 PM
for those who were interested here is the low range light which i see that never lights up lol

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/483662_627187673964071_528885417_n.jpg

ezyrama
18th March 2013, 04:14 PM
Nah, mine doesnt come on either, just the 4wd symbol when in diff lock and the TC symbol when I am having fun.
Cheers Ian

78RRman
20th March 2013, 07:37 AM
Just noticed a few people saying their my12/13 hold out the dust and water you guys are lucky, mine leaks water onto the passenger floor from under the dash just like my old one and when I went away at Xmas the whole inside of the rear door and under those little small windows at the rear was blanketed in red dust. It had 3k on the clock so I spent a whole day cleaning dust out of the interior. is this common or should I say something on it's first service?

c.h.i.e.f
20th March 2013, 08:07 AM
Just noticed a few people saying their my12/13 hold out the dust and water you guys are lucky, mine leaks water onto the passenger floor from under the dash just like my old one and when I went away at Xmas the whole inside of the rear door and under those little small windows at the rear was blanketed in red dust. It had 3k on the clock so I spent a whole day cleaning dust out of the interior. is this common or should I say something on it's first service?

All my landys 1986-2010 leak water on passenger floor after heavy rain and also drivers right foot...lets see if my 2013 one does when it arrives :D

KarlB
20th March 2013, 08:46 AM
Just noticed a few people saying their my12/13 hold out the dust and water you guys are lucky, mine leaks water onto the passenger floor from under the dash just like my old one and when I went away at Xmas the whole inside of the rear door and under those little small windows at the rear was blanketed in red dust. It had 3k on the clock so I spent a whole day cleaning dust out of the interior. is this common or should I say something on it's first service?
Yes, you should complain. No need to wait until first service, leaks are a warranty issue. Mine leaked until the dealer replaced a faulty grommet in the fire wall.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

LoveB
22nd March 2013, 05:36 PM
I hear a little clunk when releasing the clutch sometimes. Is that normal? I read the earlier ones needed to have the clutch replaced, I was wondering if that was the symptom? doesn't sound harsh. Just a metal clunk I get time to time.

PAT303
22nd March 2013, 06:31 PM
Just noticed a few people saying their my12/13 hold out the dust and water you guys are lucky, mine leaks water onto the passenger floor from under the dash just like my old one and when I went away at Xmas the whole inside of the rear door and under those little small windows at the rear was blanketed in red dust. It had 3k on the clock so I spent a whole day cleaning dust out of the interior. is this common or should I say something on it's first service?

Mine started leaking into the footwell,it was the A/C freezing up from the faulty thermistor switch. Pat

RVR110
22nd March 2013, 09:58 PM
Mine started leaking into the footwell,it was the A/C freezing up from the faulty thermistor switch. Pat

Those Pumas are soooo unreliable! A/C freezing was never a problem on Isuzu Counties :angel: