n00bs guide to upgrading diff and axels

[twr7cx]

I'm moving up to 33" tyres and figure it may be a good move to sort them out before I'm left stranded.

Having read about lockers I'm not interested in the expense or hassle of them, and have decided to go with Eaton TrueTracs or Ashcroft ABT (probably the ABT as they are priced right - Ashcroft Transmissions - Ashcroft ATB (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=259) ).

What else do I need to do?

Pegging? Ashcroft Transmissions - DIFF PEGGING KIT (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=371)

Shafts and CV's? Ashcroft Transmissions - Disco II Rear Shafts (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=42) and Ashcroft Transmissions - Disco II CV and front shafts (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=21)

New ring and pinion to suit the larger tyres? Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=12)

Should I be going with all Ashcroft gear so that it all matches up and works or mixing different brands?

In all my years of working on cars, bikes and boats, I've never done anything inside the differential. I've changed complete assemblies, but that's about it. Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in? My level of experience is quiet broad from working on removing engines, transmissions, diffs, gearboxes, front wheel drives CV shafts, wheel bearings, suspensions, etc.

[brenno]

You could go all out on it, but it may be overkill for what you will be using the vehicle for.

If you intend to throw it at the more extreme stuff, then it would be wise to get it all done. Having said that, I'm not sure of the gains with the pegging though, relative to cost. I ran a highly modded D1 with front and rear lockers, 35's, etc., unpegged, and never had an issue.

If you'll be doing easy to medium, you would probably get away without changing out the axels and CV's, but I'd definitely change the CW&P to 4.12's. Possibly would do the rear shafts too, as on harder climbs, there's a lot of weight being pushed uphill from the rear drive.

Let us know what the vehicle is intended for, and you'll get more direct answers.

[walker]

Yep. I agree with Brenno. First thing I would do is 4.12's, but get the Centres changed at the same time to save money.

What sort of tyres are you planning to run?

If you are running an aggressive muddy and plan to do hard, muddy fun tracks like you get in Tassie then I would seriously consider "proper" lockers. Yes they are expensive but they make so much difference.
Which ever way you go, you will need to upgrade your diff centres, the spider gears on the D2 are definately a weak point.

As for pegging and cv's/axles, if you are not installing a manual locker then you are most likely not going to be doing the sort of tracks that warrant this type of upgrade and expense. The standard axles on the D2 are pretty good.

On my last D2 I ran 34" Simex JT's with just air lockers and standard axles and CV's and never had a problem........I obviously don't hit things as hard as Slunnie. :twisted:

[twr7cx]

I suppose the reality is that my D2 is mainly used on road. It's my main vehicle (with the toy car being a V8 Falcon).
The main off road work is launching the boat off the beach. With the new larger boat, I have found this to be more difficult and now deflate the tyres and CDL engaged by default (where for years with my smaller lighter boat I had no such issues) - the other day I had to winch out.

I'm currently considering my tyre options, but I intend to stay with All Terrains in a 70/30 split (on-road/off-road).

The girlfriend and I do go camping and a bit of bush bashing in it, but nothing extreme - within the next year we plan to shift north to Queensland and I imagine a fair bit of sand book will be coming up then. I generally ride my dirt bike rather as it doesn't break/scratch as easy and is much cheaper to fix!

[walker]

In that case I don't think you really have to do anything except installing the larger tyres. As discussed on on another thread, the lower diff ratio will give you better acceleration and probably better economy but they are not a "must have" as the TD5 auto copes ok without it.

[brenno]

Yep, what Adam said...

Except... I personally would install the 4.12's still. It will give you better transfer of torque and power to the ground, which will be especially noticeable when towing or dragging your boat across the sand.

[Yorkie]

from my reading and experience.
full locker arb/detroit/etc you would be wise to fit hd axles, i broke a rear after fitting the detroit. ashcrofts 4days from the uk. :cool:

for your driving why not just go the true tracs/atb, no need to upgrade axles as less pressure on the driveline.