Semi floating hub bearings

[rfurzer]

I am up to the stage of dismantling my hubs. The wsm talks of special tools to use when pressing it apart. What have people used in the real world?

[gromit]

To get mine apart I ground a slot in the collar and split it. This was because my collars had been welded to the axle.
To put it back together you need a press and some tooling.

Here it is going back together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1229.jpg



Colin

[rfurzer]

Thanks gromit

Where is the splined half shaft in that photo?

Russ

[Timj]

Basically you need a long piece of pipe of the right diameter, can't remember exactly what that was but you can measure the bearing and the shaft to make sure it fits and then put it in the press. Easy to damage the seals as well, but i can't remember which way it had to be done, bearing first then seal or seal first, maybe if the Ho Hars are online Harry might remember which way round it was when we did their 80". I didn't bother and just converted mine to full floating as I am not a fan of semi floating.

Cheers,

TimJ.

[gromit]

Thanks gromit

Where is the splined half shaft in that photo?

Russ


Below the press.
This picture might help :-


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/41.jpg


Colin

[dennisS1]

I have a method for removing the rear bearings off the shaft without damage to the collars, so they can be reused.
If interested PM me and I will give you a phone number.
Dennis

[series1buff]

To remove the collars, I made up the puller designed by Marco Tasselli ? who resides in West. Aust. having emigrated from the UK with his pre pro car.

When it comes to installing the collars, you want a interference fit as described in the manual , cant remember what it is ? 6 thou maybe .

Anyway , when assembling , if you warm up the collars before pressing them on, they will slide on relatively easily, heating them will expand them , as they cool and shrink they will tighten onto the axle . Shrink fitting is commonly used in machining .

Mike

[chazza]

The collars should have about a 0.003" interference fit; one of the ones I bought had no interference at all, so I had to make one.

To aid in pressing it all together I cast an aluminium press plate, which fits inside the brake backing-plate as I was concerned that pressing on the outside of the backing-plate might distort it,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

The collars should have about a 0.003" interference fit; one of the ones I bought had no interference at all, so I had to make one.

To aid in pressing it all together I cast an aluminium press plate, which fits inside the brake backing-plate as I was concerned that pressing on the outside of the backing-plate might distort it,

Cheers Charlie

The previous owner of mine didn't worry about an interference fit !


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1041.jpg



The manual shows a tool that fits inside the backplate (like yours Charlie) for disassembly, reassembly is with a collar you poke the axle through like the one I used.

I spoke to Fred Smith about taking mine apart before I decided to buy a cheap press. He said that they can take 20tons to separate and he often ends up warming the collar with an oxy torch before it will release.
I cut & split mine as mentioned because I was replacing them anyway.


Colin

[series1buff]

Hi

Please use good quality hub bearings like SKF brand made in Sweden , germany etc. ..look at the new bearings you purchase and look for a country of manufacture on them . The el cheapo bearings usually do not have a country of origin stamped on them.

I've been told that F100 rear hub bearings are the same ...

Assuming you need new bearings ?

Mike

[series1buff]

ones I bought had no interference at all, so I had to make one.


Cheers Charlie

hi Charlie

What grade of steel did you use ? Mike

[klonk]

I replaced klonks bearings and seals the other day.

Yes Mike the same as F150 bearings, $27 each ,$6 for the seals, from the local bearing shop.

I also removed the inner seal on the bearing and half filled the cavity between the bearing and axel seal with wheel bearing grease, dont fill the cavity, leave room for air and expansion of the grease. There wasnt alot of grease in the new bearings. They were Japanese ones.

Cheers Steve

[chazza]

hi Charlie

What grade of steel did you use ? Mike

Mild steel - the original one was quite soft, so hopefully it will be OK,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Mild steel - the original one was quite soft, so hopefully it will be OK,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

The ones I got from 4 Wheel drives years ago looked like they were hardened. I remember having to polish them up in the lathe where the seal would run.
Cost about $30 each from memory and fitted OK.

Pn 07297 listed here for 18.80GBP Land Rover Parts | LAND ROVER SERIES I PARTS, Genuine and Aternative Parts Series I (http://www.landrover-parts.net/products.php?cat=8)

My bearings were NTN (Japanese) I have the box somewhere if anyone needs the part number. Basically an off-the-shelf item at most bearing companies.


Colin

[chazza]

Charlie,

The ones I got from 4 Wheel drives years ago looked like they were hardened. I remember having to polish them up in the lathe where the seal would run.


Colin

Yes I bought the same ones but a punch test proved them to be soft; like you I didn't like the roughness of the seal surface, so I polished them in the lathe,

Cheers Charlie