View Full Version : 09 TDV8 wont start after 2 months
kiwiandy
3rd March 2013, 06:45 PM
I have ben away overseas for 2 months, and my 09 TDV8 Sport has been sitting in the garage unused while I was away.
I was fearing a flat battery, however when i tried it it cranked , started, and ran for about 20 seconds.
When I put it in reverse to back it from the garage it had no power and then died.
When i try to restart it just cranks and cranks but doesnt fire.
Im guessing its a fuel problem but where to start?
muddymech
3rd March 2013, 07:13 PM
May be imobiliser. Does it still do it after its been locked unlocked. U gotta to wait about thirty seconds after locking.
sheerluck
3rd March 2013, 07:24 PM
If it sounds fuel like, perhaps a case of diesel snot?
If it's been sat for 2 months, maybe you've had a touch of water in there, and the snot has grown.
kiwiandy
4th March 2013, 02:40 PM
locking unlocking doesnt seem to fix it.
Diesel snot sounds a problem,, any ideas where i can look to find how to de-snot it?
I assume its bleeding the fuel rails?
Is there an online resource you can point me to with instructions on how to do this?
thanks
Andy
101RRS
4th March 2013, 02:49 PM
What dash fault lights/message centre indications to you have??  Have you a means to read the codes as this will point you in the right direction.
While algae in the fuel is a possibility I doubt it is the case and doesn't happen a real lot with modern fuels and engines used in an urban environment.  
I would still be looking at the battery, the car can crank and still have battery issues (don't ask me how) - power goes to starter and no power to the computers.  Try jump starting the car from a good battery and see what happens.
Garry
101RRS
4th March 2013, 03:00 PM
Is there an online resource you can point me to with instructions on how to do this?
thanks
Andy
The online resource for our vehicles is Topix TOPIx - TOPIx (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/i18n/index#)
You will need to register and can use most of the information but if you want to download much of it you will have to buy subscriptions for various lengths of time.
Workshop manuals are there and you can check the recall status of your vehicle.
Garry
kiwiandy
4th March 2013, 05:50 PM
What dash fault lights/message centre indications to you have??  Have you a means to read the codes as this will point you in the right direction.
While algae in the fuel is a possibility I doubt it is the case and doesn't happen a real lot with modern fuels and engines used in an urban environment.  
I would still be looking at the battery, the car can crank and still have battery issues (don't ask me how) - power goes to starter and no power to the computers.  Try jump starting the car from a good battery and see what happens.
Garry
Thanks for your replies Gary
I am running Torque with a bluetooth OBD scanner which works fine on my GM vehicle. The orange service engine light is lit o the dash but it tells me there are no fault codes stored in my ECU.
I have had the battery on charge for 24Hours, and is cranking long and strong, so would think this is not a problem?
kiwiandy
4th March 2013, 05:52 PM
The online resource for our vehicles is Topix TOPIx - TOPIx (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/i18n/index#)
You will need to register and can use most of the information but if you want to download much of it you will have to buy subscriptions for various lengths of time.
Workshop manuals are there and you can check the recall status of your vehicle.
Garry
Thanks Again. I have subscribed to Topix and purchased a 1 hour subscription, cost me $12 but hopefully I can track down the faults based on their trouble shooting tables. Will let you know what I can find.
cheers
Andy
101RRS
4th March 2013, 05:58 PM
I am running Torque with a bluetooth OBD scanner which works fine on my GM vehicle. The orange service engine light is lit o the dash but it tells me there are no fault codes stored in my ECU.
I have had the battery on charge for 24Hours, and is cranking long and strong, so would think this is not a problem?
I do not know that system but it clearly does not work on your RRS - if you have an orange warning light you then have a fault.
If you do a search through a lot of the threads in this section you will find plenty of posts where replacing what seemed a serviceable battery fixed the issue.  Just something to easily check.
You need to get your codes read but that is difficult if the car is not mobile and you do not have the gear.  There is little point trying this and that trying to diagnose an issue - reading the codes will point you in the right direction - unfortunately a sad fact f0r modern landies.
Garry
Graeme
4th March 2013, 07:41 PM
Have you checked that it still has fuel in the tank?  Release the cap to make sure there's not significant low pressure in the tank.
 
I assume, perhaps incorrectly, that there is a fuel bleed valve on top of the back of the engine somewhere, very similar to what the TDV6 engines have.  If you can find this and have someone to help you, loosen the valve, fit some clear plastic hose to the valve with the other end in a container then turn the ignition on for a few seconds to see if any air or fuel comes out.  If air then wait until fuel appears before turning off the ignition, remove the hose, close the valve and see if it now starts.  If no fuel then deeper digging is required - perhaps even a particular fault is inhibiting the operation of the in-tank fuel pump.
kiwiandy
5th March 2013, 03:51 PM
I assume, perhaps incorrectly, that there is a fuel bleed valve on top of the back of the engine somewhere, very similar to what the TDV6 engines have.  If you can find this and have someone to help you, loosen the valve, fit some clear plastic hose to the valve with the other end in a container then turn the ignition on for a few seconds to see if any air or fuel comes out.  If air then wait until fuel appears before turning off the ignition, remove the hose, close the valve and see if it now starts.  If no fuel then deeper digging is required - perhaps even a particular fault is inhibiting the operation of the in-tank fuel pump.
This did the trick thanks very much.
when  pressed the valve pin air came out, so i did as you suggested.. a lot of air came out and then fuel started flowing..
it then started after about 5 seconds of cranking!
this have saved me an expensive service call out
Cheers
Andy
Graeme
5th March 2013, 06:00 PM
:BigThumb:
discojools
5th March 2013, 06:25 PM
Graeme what a great end to this strange mystery....well done!  Brilliant! Kiwiandy you must be relieved....
DiscoWeb
7th March 2013, 01:34 PM
Have you checked that it still has fuel in the tank?  Release the cap to make sure there's not significant low pressure in the tank.
 
I assume, perhaps incorrectly, that there is a fuel bleed valve on top of the back of the engine somewhere, very similar to what the TDV6 engines have.  If you can find this and have someone to help you, loosen the valve, fit some clear plastic hose to the valve with the other end in a container then turn the ignition on for a few seconds to see if any air or fuel comes out.  If air then wait until fuel appears before turning off the ignition, remove the hose, close the valve and see if it now starts.  If no fuel then deeper digging is required - perhaps even a particular fault is inhibiting the operation of the in-tank fuel pump.
Graeme,
:clap2:That is a truly remarkable bit of  assumption/guesswork/deduction and all for free, the type of stuff that makes me really pleased I am part of this forum, well done !!
I will try and locate this bleed value in case it is need for future reference but I find that diagnosis astonishing:BigThumb:
Regards,
George
Rich84
7th March 2013, 02:39 PM
Graeme,
 
:clap2:That is a truly remarkable bit of  assumption/guesswork/deduction and all for free, the type of stuff that makes me really pleased I am part of this forum, well done !!
 
I will try and locate this bleed value in case it is need for future reference but I find that diagnosis astonishing:BigThumb:
 
Regards,
 
George
 
Remember it for when you replace your fuel filter and have to bleed the system ;) :banana:
jonesy63
7th March 2013, 02:48 PM
I'm wondering why it lost fuel out of the system, replaced by air? Seems something is not quite right in this scenario.
101RRS
7th March 2013, 03:15 PM
Remember it for when you replace your fuel filter and have to bleed the system ;) :banana:
While the book says so you do not have too.  Having the ignition on and running the lift pump for a while purges the air out of the system - pushes the air through to the common rail and then when starting through the injectors.
I have not had to purge the common rail in any of my fuel filter changes.
I'm wondering why it lost fuel out of the system, replaced by air? Seems something is not quite right in this scenario.
I am also a bit unsure on all this as well surely the would be no low pressure in the tank as it is open to the atmosphere albeit through a filter system. 
Garry
Graeme
7th March 2013, 06:49 PM
That is a truly remarkable bit of assumption/guesswork/deductionThanks but not really. As the engine had run for some seconds I agreed with the owner that it seemed to be consistant with a low pressure fuel supply problem. Opening the bleed valve was going to show whether fuel was getting to that point and therefore give some direction as to where to look next. Obviously the best result was that there was trapped air because it was simple to fix, which in this instance was the case and because of the simplicity of checking, should be the first diagnostic action.
Rich84
8th March 2013, 03:53 PM
While the book says so you do not have too.  Having the ignition on and running the lift pump for a while purges the air out of the system - pushes the air through to the common rail and then when starting through the injectors.
 
I have not had to purge the common rail in any of my fuel filter changes.
 
 
Garry
 
I've been told the same thing by a couple of mates who work on heavy diesels, mainly tractors, mostly with CR engines. I replaced the filter in my RRS (the 08 model with the water sensor) and mine wouldn't start when I cranked it. It only started once I'd purged the fuel rail of air. I told my mates about it over a beer and they said that their trick was to fill the new filter with diesel to minimise the air in the system and it'd usually start like this. I hadn't done that. I'll be trying it next time.
tuffrangie
9th March 2013, 06:11 AM
Good result!
I have had to purge air out if mine by running compressed air into the fuel filler and opening the valve under the bonnet.  Worked a charm.
Rob
jonesy63
9th March 2013, 12:01 PM
I once ran out of fuel in my D3 on a long run from Three Ways NT to about 20 km West of Mt Isa. The headwind was steady all the way and all the gear on the roofracks meant I never got the range I expected. I pulled over, emptied a jerry can of diesel into it, and then sat there - repeating this process three times: putting ignition to on for a couple of minutes and then off - to prime the fuel lines. 
In all these cases of needing to get air out of the system, there was a case of low fuel, or changing fuel filters. Sitting in a garage for 2 months can't cause that... unless someone syphoned fuel out while it was garaged, or parked there for 2 months on empty... or there was a small leak in the fuel line - allowing air back in over 2 months. 
AFAIK, a flat battery can't cause air being pushed into the fuel line - unless one of the above conditions existed. Or something else?
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