Isuzu Defender 130 dual cab conversion

[Shingleback]

Hi all,

Just thought someone might be interested in my little project. I was going to post updates as the build progressed but I was flat out getting time to actually build the thing, let alone play on the computer. So it's pretty much finished but can post a few photos I took along the way.

Anyway my project is to build my version of the ultimate outback touring machine, being the mighty Defender 130 dual cab with an intercooled turbo Isuzu 4bd1, front and rear lockers in strengthened diffs, and full air suspension to handle the massive variation in loads and to make slipping on the camper easier. My original plan was to buy a tdi or td5 130 and do an engine conversion, but when I had the chance to buy 'rovercares' extra cab 130 which was everything I wanted (except it wasn't a dual cab!) I jumped at it. Being a 130 chassis I thought I could simply unbolt the extra cab and bolt on a dual cab, easier than an engine swap I was thinking.

So now I was on the hunt for a dual cab body and after a bit of drama I got one, a complete 2001 td5 130. In the end I was actually surprised at how easy the swap was, nothing needed to be welded, cut or drilled, not bad considering one vehicle is an '84 and other an '01!

Basically I kept the original firewall and front floor/seat boxes which kept it simple. I unbolted the roof from above the windscreen, unbolted the rear floor from the seam behind the seat boxes, a few chassis brackets, unbolted the sill channel from the firewall and then got a mate to help lift the whole cab off in one piece. The dual cab I hung from the shed roof and drove out from underneath. A mate helped lift off the extra cab outside which we just placed on the ground then I backed under the dual cab and bolted it on, and presto, a factory isuzu dual cab 130 with a heap of good stuff on it! Another bonus is that the extra cab ute was a three seater, so now it is a six seater dual cab which means one of the kids can sit in the front leaving a space between the other two in the back, this really is a HUGE bonus.

While all the interior was gutted I covered it all with 4 bulk packs of dynamat to help sound proof it a bit. I still have a fair bit to finish off the inside but at least I can drive it around. I've been in contact with an engineer an he said it shouldn't be a problem to pass all the mods so hopefully get it done soon.

To do list;
*get engineered
*finish off the interior
*new 255/85/16 bfg km2 on the wolf rims (any one have any wolf rims for sale? need more)
*make bull bar around high mount winch
*sill tanks X2
*make rock slider/steps
*more sound proofing
*get slide on camper
*load up wife and kids
*head bush!

I'm very happy how it's turning out and look forward to finishing it. On a side note, I of course now have a good formally dual cab now an extra cab Td5 defender 130 for sale, you can see it in the vehicles for sale section.

I have a heap more photos of the build if anyone's interested,

Cheers, Andrew.

[rovercare]

Good work Andrew, Glad its turned out how you had hoped!

[pasi]

hello andrew,

nice job mate! i've been thinking along the similar lines; getting a somewhat beat up 130 and then building it up to my specs. did you get the engineer's certificate for your swap? any dramas?

cheers,

pasi

[Shingleback]

Hi Pasi, I still havn't got an engineers report but I have transferred the rego into my name and are driving it around. It's still registered as a single cab so will have to sort it out soon. Vicroads here said a letter from land rover stating that the mods I've done are all factory would be enough but the local dealer wasn't keen to write such a letter and gave me Land rover Australias number which I havn't followed up yet. So still might end up needing an engineers report to get it registered as a 6 seater dual cab but no big deal, just dollars!

If your after a 130 to convert to a 4BD1T first check with your states engineers as rules seem to be a bit vauge as to when the rules changed for engine emmisions etc. I was told it would be ok to convert up to a 2001 model 130 but others have said only up to a 1995 model.

Keep an eye on the auctions, you can pick up a 130 dual cab from about 6K. FWIW I'm wrapped with my isuzu 130, easily the most practical, toughest, versitile, great load carrying, great fuel economy, gobs of torque, put a smile on ya dial type vehicle I've had!

Good luck, Cheers, Andrew.

[Vern]

You'll need an engineers as it is a 130 with an Isuzu in it, what are vicroads on about?

[Shingleback]

because it is a factory 1984 isuzu single cab that has now been converted to a dual cab using factory land rover parts, they tell me that a letter proving that I have used factory engineered parts and that the dual cab is a factory option will be all they need. It's only because everything was bolt up, no modifying or welding was needed, bit of a unique situation. Will see how I go, not stressed either way. Looking up red book it appears that back in 1984 there was a dual cab isuzu land rover sold, but not as a 130.

[rangieman]

You'll need an engineers as it is a 130 with an Isuzu in it, what are vicroads on about?

Yes Mat used a 130 chassis as the isuzu chassis was rotten with cancer was it not !:cool:

[Vern]

Something like that;). I know the car very well, I witnessed the whole build and drove the thing plenty of times, and every time I did I ripped my bloody pants on that stupid door catch:D

[rick130]

Something like that;). I know the car very well, I witnessed the whole build and drove the thing plenty of times, and every time I did I ripped my bloody pants on that stupid door catch:D


That reminds me to order some X-eng trouser savers :D

I keep destroying the stupid nylon rollers on the catch. Mine are constantly wrapped on leccy tape in lieu of the roller, and I think I've only ripped three pairs of trousers over the years now.

[87County]

That reminds me to order some X-eng trouser savers :D

I keep destroying the stupid nylon rollers on the catch. Mine are constantly wrapped on leccy tape in lieu of the roller, and I think I've only ripped three pairs of trousers over the years now.

Yes, those nylon rollers are stupid Ric, especially the replacement co$t.

I turned some replacement rollers up from bearing shop material, put one thin split in them (widening ("V"-ing) it a one end to facilitate fitting and eased them over the pin) - they have continued to work fine ever since :).


... anyway - I digress ..... the original subject is very interesting

[rick130]

I just pulled the pin and ordered a set of the X-Trousers from Si in the UK.

I actually don't like spending $ on stuff like that as it isn't 'performance' gear, but I have to get over it :D

Anyway, back to our scheduled and interesting thread :angel:

[pasi]

hello andrew,

thanks for the info. the isuzu plant sounds tempting and the way you describe your ute puts a smile on my dial also! a local engineer told his inspection would include checking each and very nut and bolt if i was the do the body swap by myself. his fees would be between 150 and 350$. didn't reach qld transport yet, so don't know if they charge dearly for the paperwork.

i just drove a 1995 two door 130 with 200K on it. the most gutless one of the five different utes i've seen so far. if there's any life left in the turbo, it's hard to notice. could be many other things as well. looks like there's a leak on the fuel system, the intake side of the block was pretty wet. underneath the gearbox was covered in its own fluids, no drain plug in sight! according to the seller it may have been like that since last maintenance 10K ago?! can't believe the gear box would live that long without fluids, nor understand how could the plug take a walk by itself. running a dry transmission would make the truck sluggish, no? could it be a way to mask another problem? gears were engaging ok in both hi and lo and there were no metal on metal sounds that i could notice...

the body is also well beat up. foot wells rusted through on both sides, but intact up higher. driver's side door/b-pillar gap is 10 mm more than on passenger side, but no visible cause for this. didn't think about measuring the outrigger distances, that may have told if the frame is bent out of shape?

so, if only the price was right (owner's asking 7K) that could be a good base to start on the build. but when you mention the chance of landing a dual cab for 6K why bother with the cab swap! which auctions would you recommend? would they be statutory write offs only?

as far as your 4BD1T goes, what kind of mileage do you get out of it?

cheers,

pasi

[Shingleback]

hello andrew,
so, if only the price was right (owner's asking 7K) that could be a good base to start on the build. but when you mention the chance of landing a dual cab for 6K why bother with the cab swap! which auctions would you recommend? would they be statutory write offs only?

as far as your 4BD1T goes, what kind of mileage do you get out of it?

cheers,

pasi

Just google car or auto auctions as there are a few and you can see what vehicles are coming up for auction. Pickles is one auction place. It may take some time to find a defender 130 but you will get one eventually. There are all types of auctions, some for written off and damaged vehicles, government vehicles, and lots for registered good vehicles.

My 4bd1+Ti gets about 11.5 L/100 and taking it easy have got 9.5L/100. I love the engine but be aware they are very different to any other common 4wd engine, so best to test drive one first. For example comparing to a nissan patrol TD42 turbo diesel, the Isuzu makes it feel like small 4cy petrol in regards to low down torque. The difference is amazing, I better add that my isuzu has a VNT turbo set up by rovercare on here, boosting up to 30psi though usually not getting over 25psi and is intercooled. The other big difference in the engines is that the isuzu runs out of revs quickly, it's a truck motor, is noisy, and I love it! Your welcome to test drive mine, bit far from you but can if you ever come to NE Vic.

Good Luck

[Bush65]

Pasi, I might add; the post 1988 4BD1T are smoother, quieter, and more fuel efficient. Just something to keep in mind if you test drive an Isuzu landie.

[pasi]

hello andrew,

thanks for your offer for a test drive! i'll look you up if i ever make it down south.

i suppose the army didn't use any 130s, otherwise now would be the time to bet for one of those. they've had some wrecked 110s on graysonline that could be a source for the 4BD1(T?). unless the army landies are all non turbo?

your fuel economy is similar to that of a 300 tdi, no? the behaviour that you describe makes one smile. i mean, how cool is it to have a truck engine in a "passenger car"? should make one adopt a clever, anticipating driving style - like driving a truck. unless the funny torque/weight ratio turns the ute into a boy toy...

cheers,

pasi

[pasi]

hello john,

thanks for the hint. haven't gotten my hands on one so far. i also read plenty good about older isuzu tdi 2.8, but i quess it's more of a UK thing. there seems to be plenty on things that may make a 300 tdi sluggish. there also seems to be a school of thought that says they will need a major overhaul around 200k km, especially if neglected. saw prices for reconditioned engines somewhere, about 7000$. with that in mind you just cross your fingers to find a cheaper replacement somewhere.

cheers,

pasi

[pasi]

one more thing andrew, do you happen to remember the distance on the floor of a 130, between the front of the rear seat box and the middle bulkhead?

pasi

[rick130]

there seems to be plenty on things that may make a 300 tdi sluggish. there also seems to be a school of thought that says they will need a major overhaul around 200k km, especially if neglected.

cheers,

pasi

:o

Head gasket at 280-320,000km, most probably big ends around the same distance but mostly they just keep chugging along for 4-500,000km unless you're unlucky to get a late '98 version (crank failure due to faulty big end shells) or something really unlucky like too much core shift in a casting or a porous casting.

[pasi]

hello rick130,

thanks for the info. well, that seems to be the other school of thought! i suppose you never know what you get buying a used car. or a new one for that matter. i bought a brand new opel vectra in 1998 and that was a real electronics disaster on wheels. i don't think it helps much philosophizing about the engine though - you get what get and then do with it.

concerning the original thread, body swap; i'm thinking of something new, at least for me. would a shortened 110 wagon body fit on to a 130 chassis? without major dramas, that is. if you could add, say, 8 to 12 cm to the 130 cab length that would give luxurious room for the teenagers in the back. i have not figured out how the back seat set up differs on a wagon and a crew cab. at least the floor on a crew cab seems shorter than in a wagon. don't have any at hand so can't measure the 130, but if i remember right the wagon was about 45 cm. the floor space must have something to do with the outrigger placements i guess? anyone got insight into this?

cheers,

pasi

[Bush65]

Chris (lokka) has a dual cab modified from a 110 SW body like you describe, except his wheel base has been extended further than the 127" of a 130, to allow a longer tray. There are a few pics on aulro.

I don't know if it started as a 110 or a 130, but remember that for the early 130's, Land Rover used a stretched 110 chassis.

[rick130]

I don't know if it started as a 110 or a 130, but remember that for the early 130's, Land Rover used a stretched 110 chassis.

They still are John.
I think the early ones were built by special vehicles, then they became a production line affair but are still a110 chassis with the band saw put through it and 17" added.
They are actually very well done.

[pasi]

Chris (lokka) has a dual cab modified from a 110 SW body like you describe, except his wheel base has been extended further than the 127" of a 130, to allow a longer tray. There are a few pics on aulro.

I don't know if it started as a 110 or a 130, but remember that for the early 130's, Land Rover used a stretched 110 chassis.

thanks bush65! if only i knew how to search through our site. but google pulled up this,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/113055-cal415s-comp-truck-project.html

so it can be done. would be interesting to know if there's more room on the back seat of lokka's 135 than in a cc 130, but it doesn't seem so. the cc 130 and 110 rear doors are the same, aren't they? the chassis extension (is it 8 or 5 inches?) gives a balanced look to the rig. without it, adding a 25 to 30 cm slice of 110 behind the rear door might make it look funny, the front of the tray vertically almost in line with the front side of the rear wheel, if you see what i mean.

cheers,

pasi

[pasi]

found this also, just in case someone's interested in this body mod idea. looks pretty sharp imo!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1362991-post690.html

[pasi]

Pasi, I might add; the post 1988 4BD1T are smoother, quieter, and more fuel efficient. Just something to keep in mind if you test drive an Isuzu landie.

would this apply to the perenties' non turbo engines as well? no wrecked ones for sale on grays' at this time though...

what would be the easiest, most reliable, useful turbo addition to the 4BD1?

cheers,

pasi

[Bush65]

The information I have for the 4BD1 used in Land Rovers (unlike 4BD1T) is not crystal clear in that regard.

After 1988, the 4BD1T engines supplied to JRA and British Aerospace are practically the same as used in Isuzu trucks and had several changes from earlier 4BD1T's that improved reliability (piston strength and oil cooling), and combustion efficiency (significant improvement to performance and economy, plus smoother and quieter).

Edit; sorry nearly forgot your turbo question.
The easiest option for an exhaust manifold is to buy one from Isuzu. Unfortunately these have a T3 flange, and requires an adapter for most suitable turbos.

For a turbo there are many choices:

From Garrett consider models GT2256 (smallest/quicker spooling) to GT2860 with smallest available inducer (largest/slower spooling) with a suitable (small) A/R turbine housing.

From Borg Warner, model EFR6258

But the best choice for overall performance and price appears to be from Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, model TD04HL-19T

[LowRanger]

found this also, just in case someone's interested in this body mod idea. looks pretty sharp imo!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1362991-post690.html

Yep,that is Simons' smart looking truck,he was around making a lot of noise for a while,but haven't heard from him for quite some time.

[isuzurover]

Nice work.


because it is a factory 1984 isuzu single cab that has now been converted to a dual cab using factory land rover parts, they tell me that a letter proving that I have used factory engineered parts and that the dual cab is a factory option will be all they need. It's only because everything was bolt up, no modifying or welding was needed, bit of a unique situation. Will see how I go, not stressed either way. Looking up red book it appears that back in 1984 there was a dual cab isuzu land rover sold, but not as a 130.

That was pretty much the same as when I converted my IIA from a hardtop to a ute (in QLD). The engineer (blue plater) said - there isn't a code for that as it is a bolt on/off conversion.

I went to QT and told them what the blue plater had said, they had to make a few calls to head office... after about 45 mins of waiting a guy came out to inspect and said "bnice ute" and that was that.

I don't think the modulariity of land rovers was accounted for when the regs were written :D

[pasi]

The information I have for the 4BD1 used in Land Rovers (unlike 4BD1T) is not crystal clear in that regard.

After 1988, the 4BD1T engines supplied to JRA and British Aerospace are practically the same as used in Isuzu trucks and had several changes from earlier 4BD1T's that improved reliability (piston strength and oil cooling), and combustion efficiency (significant improvement to performance and economy, plus smoother and quieter).

Edit; sorry nearly forgot your turbo question.
The easiest option for an exhaust manifold is to buy one from Isuzu. Unfortunately these have a T3 flange, and requires an adapter for most suitable turbos.

For a turbo there are many choices:

From Garrett consider models GT2256 (smallest/quicker spooling) to GT2860 with smallest available inducer (largest/slower spooling) with a suitable (small) A/R turbine housing.

From Borg Warner, model EFR6258

But the best choice for overall performance and price appears to be from Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, model TD04HL-19T

thanks for the great info bush65! need to get a crash course on turbos. i don't know how to compare prices when on one site the TD04HL-19T costs 300$ and the next wants 3000$. obviously they're selling different parts?

if there are any military forum readers around, could you elaborate on the finesse of a post 1988 4BD1 vs an earlier one. are the civilian and perentie engines the same? i've never had a chance to drive a pre 1988 one, so couldn't compare.

cheers,

pasi

[pasi]

well, now i'm confused. does anybody know since when 4BD1Ts have been made in china? can they be real engines or rather like rolex wrist watches that last about a week? new engines starting at 1000$?

Isuzu 4bd1t Engine, Isuzu 4bd1t Engine Products, Isuzu 4bd1t Engine Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com (http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/isuzu-4bd1t-engine.html)

[pasi]

while searching info on 4BD1T i ran into this site;

Diesel Conversion to Isuzu 4BD1T - Page 4 (http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/480289-diesel-conversion-isuzu-4bd1t-4.html)

this guy has built a neat fuel filter/water fuel separator combo, if that is of interest to anyone (parts list included).

[rar110]

I thought you only needed a vehicle to be engineered if you were changing the manufacturer's design. The 130 chassis was designed to accept either single or double cab. Putting an unmodified manufacturer's designed body onto the unmodified manufacturer's chassis means no change to manufacturer's design.

[rar110]

looks like things have changed. Requirements explained in the below:

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/Safety/Vehicle%20standards%20and%20modifications/Vehicle%20modifications/Light%20vehicle%20modifications/NCOP/7sectionlhbody.pdf

[rangieman]

I thought you only needed a vehicle to be engineered if you were changing the manufacturer's design. The 130 chassis was designed to accept either single or double cab. Putting an unmodified manufacturer's designed body onto the unmodified manufacturer's chassis means no change to manufacturer's design.

:cool: