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81stubee
20th March 2013, 05:54 PM
I've tried searching and come up with not much. I find it hard to believe that no one has ever asked this question, so if someone can point me in the right direction it would be Appreciated.

Whats the best oil for the ZF24? I believe it will need about 9+ litres as the TC has been drained, and i've changed the filters.

Plus any tips on how to fill?

Cheers

Stu

PhilipA
20th March 2013, 06:57 PM
Castrol Transmax Z is better than most and approved by ZF for 4HP22, 4HP22E and although I haven't checked I am pretty sure 4HP24E. If in doubt google it There is an approved list on the ZF site, AFAIR it is category 11.

My RRC trans is still perfect at 222KK, with regular changes with lots of hot towing and no extra cooling.
Hmm to fill. Surely there is a procedure in the manual.
Hmm Interesting Rave doesn't say for a dry fill.
I think I would pour 4 litres if possible down a cooler pipe, and then fill the sump and then do the start up, change gears , idle top up.
Regards Philip A

81stubee
20th March 2013, 08:13 PM
Thanks,

Yeah, i havent looked up the fill procedure yet. Just thought people might of had some tips or tricks. I'll do a bit more research tomorrow.

Cheers

benji
21st March 2013, 08:25 AM
The figure listed in RAVE is the dry fill amount. I bought 20 lt thinking it'll do two changes. When I drained it out only 4 litres come out.

wayneg
21st March 2013, 11:47 AM
Thanks,

Yeah, i havent looked up the fill procedure yet. Just thought people might of had some tips or tricks. I'll do a bit more research tomorrow.

Cheers
No secrets in the fill procedure. Get under the car, remove the fill plug. Pump in oil till it starts to come out/overflow. Run car through all gears and re check the level.

PhilipA
21st March 2013, 12:08 PM
That is just for a sump oil change of 4 litres of the 9 litre capacity.
I think the point is that his Torque converter is empty and the oil pump will be empty.
I suggest try to get some oil down the cooler pipes to partly fill the TC and maybe prime the oil pump.
Regards Philip A

wayneg
21st March 2013, 06:40 PM
The torque converter will spin as it is connected to the back of the crankshaft via the flexplate (flywheel). It has slots cut in it that engage the tangs on the front pump of the transmission. The front pump will be spinning regardless if the transmission is in park, neutral, or drive. However the input shaft will not be spinning until the converter fills with fluid. So that being said, you dont have to have oil in the torque converter to start with. If you have fitted a new torque converter it would be a good idea to get some oil in it for lubrication. if its just been drained there would be a residue left. The problem is getting the oil into the sump quick enough as its pumped in to the torque converter. Getting some oil into the converter will help prime the pump

BusinessConnected
21st March 2013, 07:05 PM
Isn't the best concept for these to use a lot more Fluid than is required (say 20 Litres) and actually use the Pump Mechanism to flush the fluid...

i.e: Disconnect Cooler Hose from Trans Cooler and Place into Bucket... have Other End of Hose in a 20L Container of Oil so it flushes the system that way?

81stubee
21st March 2013, 09:40 PM
Just looked up RAVE... 11 Litres for a pre 99 4.6 :o

But there is no procedure in RAVE on how to do a dry fill. I'm contemplating just filling up the sump then cracking for about 5 seconds, then checking.

I'll do some googling tomorrow.

Stu

Hoges
21st March 2013, 11:21 PM
FWIW... suggest a search on overhauling ZF autos ...esp. volvo forums... they're a zealous lot like us! The idea seems to be that you can pump oil into the ZF torque converter back through the oil cooler pipe using one of those little centrifugal pumps on the end of an electric drill, at least enough to get it thoroughly lubricated as it will rapidly fill once the engine starts.
cheers

81stubee
22nd March 2013, 03:46 PM
I'm not that sure how much i like the idea of pumping oil back into the TC for fear of contaminating the oil as it will be after the filter, and if any gunk gets in the TC i'm stuffed.

I'm thinking preferably i'll just fill up the sump, crank the motor five to ten seconds, and see if the level drops.

In the meantime, i found this link for a guy who stripped his 4HP22 in his backyard and rebuilt it.

Chris Cowdery Global Presence (http://www.cowdery.org.uk/zf.php)

Cheers

Stu

81stubee
24th March 2013, 04:37 PM
I can happily say that no issues occurred with filling the 4HP24E from dryfill just through the dipstick. It took nearly 11 litres on the mark. I think i managed to get 8+ litres in before starting, so it would of got into the TC pretty quickly. It shifts nice and smooth :)

Cheers

Stu