Tie down mount points

[TheTree]

Hi

I have read all the stuff on RR.net about the tie down attachment points in the loadspace area.

The Yanks seem a little confused by the metric system, so i was wondering if anyone knew what size the threaded holes are? They look to me like they may be M8.

Secondly, the pics on RR.net were not totally clear to me, so I was hoping someone could confirm that i have the correct rear holes.

I lifted the carpet and took a pic, this is the one on the left hand size in front of the CD changer.

http://p38.hts.com.au/images/rear_tie_down_points.jpg

Thanks
Steve

[Keithy P38]

I could (if I was home) confirm that for you, I have one either side. The left one is at the leading edge of the cd changer and about 10mm from the cd stacker/sub enclosure towards the centre of the car (you should just be able to pull the entire stacker out without touching the tie-down point if you had installed it).

The right hand side one is the same location, simply on the other side of the car.

[p38arover]

Hi

I have read all the stuff on RR.net about the tie down attachment points in the loadspace area.

The Yanks seem a little confused by the metric system, so i was wondering if anyone knew what size the threaded holes are? They look to me like they may be M8.

Secondly, the pics on RR.net were not totally clear to me, so I was hoping someone could confirm that i have the correct rear holes.


Sorry, I thought my pics Loadspace Anchor Points and Tiedowns (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/loadanchor.html#ron) were clear (and I'm not a Yank).

[TheTree]

Hi Ron,

Your pics are clear, I guess i was just triple checking because my holes seemed smaller, but they are in the same location.

I meant that the page is a bit unclear on the thread size, not on the location. My apologies for that.

I see you used 16tpi 3/8 UNC bolts, so I will try some of those.

I thought your use of a road case on the right hand side was a great idea.

Regards,
Steve

[Hoges]

With a bit of mucking around including drilling a couple of holes, I bought a couple of these rails and bolted them to the existing holes plus extra using load spreading plates. Other General Accessories | ARB 4x4 Accessories (http://www.arb.com.au/products/general-accessories/other-accessories/) works well.
cheers

[p38arover]

I originally used old seat belt fittings but have since changed them for LR tiedown loops I got cheap (free). I must have done the tiedown information for that page nearly 10 years ago. I no longer have the photos (not that I can find - unless they were prints and I scanned them. I'll have to look).

I suppose I should have shown a bit more of the floor to make it clear where things were. The trouble is when one does this stuff, it's all very clear in one's head.

[TheTree]

I think the thing which was least clear was my :censored: reading and my Brain!

What i questioned most was the bolt size, my hole does not look like 3/8 or 10mm, but maybe once i knock the plug out it will.

Thanks again everyone for all your help ...

Regards
Steve

[p38arover]

I didn't write the bit about the metric bolt size - and that bit wasn't written by a Yank. It was written by the then site owner, John Brabyn, who is a Kiwi. :p

[Johnnyboynz]

Here's what i came up with, flush mounted and galv finish.
Easy to fit with a hole saw and bolted through. Gives multiple tie down points and i find them to be pretty versatile and plenty strong enough for securing camping gear etc

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[p38arover]

I'm afraid I don't like that method. It's relying on the latch at the rear to hold it all in place. The front should be OK with the way it slips into the recess.

Admittedly, in a rollover, it's better than nothing.

[Johnnyboynz]

I hear you Ron, that was my concern also, it's secured in a different way to be honest.

[Hoges]

further to previous post... used tubular spacers* flanged each end over bolts between rail and floor to account for thickness of carpet/underlay. One length of the ARB railing (900mm) cut in two, is sufficient.

(* found spacers once used for installing a couple of kids' car seats back in the mid-70s ...:angel:)

LH bolts used existing floor mounted captive nuts. For RHS drilled holes and used 50mm square 3mm steel plates under floor for anchor nuts.

Usually use 2 rings each side for cargo net etc

HINT: with the back seats folded forward or removed for a long trip, a small section (50-75mm) of rail can be bolted to the top of the protruding studs securing the body-chassis mounts etc and a load ring attached...provides several additional tie-down options. Remove ring and leave rail in place when not needed.

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p599/chopperdoctor1/tie-downrailP38_zpsb6433454.jpg

[intheozone]

Here's what i came up with, flush mounted and galv finish.
Easy to fit with a hole saw and bolted through. Gives multiple tie down points and i find them to be pretty versatile and plenty strong enough for securing camping gear etc

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/p38a-range-rover/58426d1364780852-tie-down-mount-points-01.jpg

How clean it the back of your P38???

Mine will never look like that... Ah the joys of 4x4ing with a 2 year old Labrador in the back. its all yellow dog hair and sand...:wasntme:

[TheTree]

It was written by the then site owner, John Brabyn, who is a Kiwi. :p

Don't mention the Rugby ! :angel: