Door Handle Parts

[TheTree]

Hi

I have the very common problem with my front door handles.

I noticed on RR.net that someone suggested that the pivot pin was available as a separate part, but no-one came up with a part number.

I spoke to the guy at Land Vehicle Spares and he said the pin was "ebay only" and not available from LR.

Does anyone know if this is actually available, or is it a myth.

It seems buying new handles with latch assemblies may be the only way to go.

Thanks
Steve

[p38arover]

Which pin?

It's been a long time since I pulled off a handle to modify it so I'm not sure what the pin looks like. Is it a standard roll pin?
Can you take a pic of it?

[TheTree]

Hi Paul

In this thread they call it the "pivot arm"

The definitive fix for stiff P38A door handles. (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/11692-definitive-fix-stiff-p38a-door-handles.html)

I believe it is the Arm shown in these pics

http://i13.tinypic.com/4kf259u.jpg

Regards
Steve

[TheTree]

Bryan Smith from Hunter Landrover emailed me the PDF of the assembly

http://p38.hts.com.au/pdf/Section_20130402_1213.pdf

It seems like item 23 is the part i need

The R/H side is available for $5.90 but the L/H side is not listed anymore ;(

They are going to find out about availability of L/H side one and get back to me.

[TheTree]

The part is called a "Cam Doorlock Kit", it includes the pivot arm, the pin and the spring.

They seem to be readily available from the usual parts sources.

[p38arover]

That was the mod I also did some years back after seeing it on RR.net.

So, do you need just the roll pin or everything in item 23?

[TheTree]

That was the mod I also did some years back after seeing it on RR.net.

So, do you need just the roll pin or everything in item 23?

I think i will get the kit and replace all the bits they provide, it's pretty cheap at around $12 :D. I haven't had my door trims off yet, but I have the "handles stick out by 3-4mm and are stiff" issue.

Regards
Steve

[PaulP38a]

STC3064 for RHF door, STC3063 for LHF door.

I have a spare set here if you need it in a hurry.

[TheTree]

STC3064 for RHF door, STC3063 for LHF door.

I have a spare set here if you need it in a hurry.

Hi Paul,

I am in no big hurry, I have a heater hose to replace and a cooling system to flush as well as changing the ATF and hooking up the new EAS bypass stuff :cool:

That said, if they are surplus to your requirements, I will take them off your hands

Regards
Steve

[Hoges]

Hi Paul,

I am in no big hurry, I have a heater hose to replace and a cooling system to flush as well as changing the ATF and hooking up the new EAS bypass stuff :cool:

That said, if they are surplus to your requirements, I will take them off your hands

Regards
Steve

Are you contemplating a full ATF flush and filter change?

currently "motivating" myself to do the full torque converter flush as well -not sure it's ever been done in 14 yrs.... but gear changes are very smooth... It's a matter of getting everything lined up ... including lots of mop-up rags and a perfectly obedient mechanics' helper :eek: SWMBO where are you:twisted::wasntme:

[TheTree]

Are you contemplating a full ATF flush and filter change?

Hoges,

I am indeed, there was no comprehensive service history for vehicle (of course) and it is approaching the "magic" 180K zone.

My mechanic mate and i decided it would be sensible to change all the fluids over the next month or so.

My gear changes are smooth as well but i suspect the ATF has never been changed.

Is there any reason not to change the ATF ?

Regards
Steve

[Hoges]

As far as I am concerned there's every good reason to refresh the oil and filter on a regular basis;)... just need to make sure I have all the necessary stuff at hand to do it properly.

I'm planning to drop the oil out, clean any sediment out of pan, replace pan using original gasket and fill with oil; then undo the return pipe from the cooler and, with engine running idling, pump oil from cooler into a container while pumping fresh oil into pan using one of those centrifugal pumps on the end of a cordless drill, until the fresh oil appears from the cooler pipe (about 5L) . I'll then switch off engine and drop oil out of pan as before, remove pan again and then replace the filter and replace pan with new gasket. Then fill pan with new oil and top off level as per RAVE instructions.

The existing filter is at optimum filtering capacity just before it's replaced with a new one..hence the order in which oil/filter are replaced as above...

Good luck with yours...Oh! for a big shed with a 4 post lift!

[PaulP38a]

I am in no big hurry, I have a heater hose to replace and a cooling system to flush as well as changing the ATF and hooking up the new EAS bypass stuff :cool:

That said, if they are surplus to your requirements, I will take them off your hands


Not surplus, cheap insurance as I had one break late last year and like to keep spares to avoid potentially embarrassing situations. If you are not in a rush, get it in your next lot of goodies from the UK. If you need it to get you out of a sticky situation, I can send you mine :)
Cheers, Paul.