Coolant tank cap replacement.

[Disco Muppet]

Evening all (morning technically)
Just noticed the cap on my coolant tank is starting to leak, some nice pink stains on the brake booster, nice high whining sound.
Whats the best way to source a new one?
Wreckers?
Stealers?
Cheers
Muppet

[walker]

How about this. Pretty cheap.

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 COOLANT EXPANSION TANK CAP | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-2-COOLANT-EXPANSION-TANK-CAP-/370489002382#vi-content)

[Andrew D]

The Ebay link is an aftermarket cap. Genuine are roughly $20 AUD.

I suggest getting it from the UK. Approximately 10 days wait (or less). They are $45.00 in Australia at Land Rover last time I checked.

By the way I recommend a brand new one. Everyone is so paranoid about overheating it would be crazy :bangin: to get one from the wreckers. Most people overlook the cap, but it's a integral part of the cooling system.

Regards
Andrew

[OffTrack]

Agree 110%. New from the UK. There is no point buying second hand. I fitted a new cap when I did the head mainly as a precaution. Genuine was something like £15 and you shouldn't have to pay anyone than £5 postage.

Cheers
Paul

[walker]

I can't see a problem with aftermarket new cap. I have aftermarket radiator, aftermarket diffs. Aftermarket bullbar, many aftermarket bushes and seals, aftermarket battery, aftermarket wheels.

[Andrew D]

No problem with aftermarket parts. I just purchase genuine as a preference, especially when it's a 1/3 to 1/2 the price you would pay in Oz.

Although my rig is about to hit 10 years she's all ridgy didge (except for the handbrake & CDL gaitor, genuine leather instead, and Terrafirma shocks).

Regards
Andrew

[clubagreenie]

One word, many issues. Britpart.

[OffTrack]

I can't see a problem with aftermarket new cap. I have aftermarket radiator, aftermarket diffs. Aftermarket bullbar, many aftermarket bushes and seals, aftermarket battery, aftermarket wheels.

So I take it that you are using cheap no-name parts for your bull-bar, diffs, bushes, wheels and battery? :angel:

[Disco Muppet]

Okay, next question.
Recommended british supplier? Paddocks?

[walker]

So I take it that you are using cheap no-name parts for your bull-bar, diffs, bushes, wheels and battery? :angel:

There was never any mention of cheap or no-name, just aftermarket.

Everyone has an opinion based on their experience. I would never choose to use ARB gear, I have had some very dodgy build quality from them, but I have no problems with Ashcroft yet others I know will not use Ashcroft. I have been using Britpart parts for many many years and have only had 1 problem in all that time so I have no hesitation using their gear.

I guess some people just like to spend their money. :angel:

[walker]

Okay, next question.
Recommended british supplier? Paddocks?

Paddocks are ok, but tend to be slow with postage and expensive on freight.

John Craddock are good, they had a radiator out to my door in 5 days.
Flat Dog are also pretty good.

Also worth calling Anthony Johnson in Melbourne as his prices are often comparable with UK prices but you can have it next day. british4wd@bigpond.com or better to call on 03 9728 8046

[Andrew D]

Okay, next question.
Recommended british supplier? Paddocks?

Britcar-UK

Regards
Andrew

[OffTrack]

There was never any mention of cheap or no-name, just aftermarket.


There are a number of "grades" of replacement parts that are used by most UK vendors:

Genuine - LR packaged
OEM - Made by a supplier to LR
Pattern/Aftermarket - Usually copies of the original parts and of variable quality.

Some Australian sellers use a similar system.

This is from the Les Richmond site for example:

ABC1234 or ABC1234-G

A part number shown like this denotes the part to be Genuine.

ABC1234-A

A part number shown like this denotes the part to be of high quality and most likely to be manufactured from the same factory as the genuine part, OEM.

ABC1234-B

A part with "-B" at the end is a copy. The quality of the "-B' parts can be poor. If buying electrical items or items like water pumps be careful. For example we rarely use "-B'" parts in our workshop. They are cheap but in some cases you get what you pay for. That said some times the "-B" parts are absolutely fine and can save you $.


So if an advert refers to replacement parts as "aftermarket" there is usually an understanding that they are cheap and possibly poor quality. Which is fine if you want to take a chance that the parts will be ok.

cheers
Paul

[SiddersC]

Britcar-UK

Regards
Andrew

I have used John craddock, island 4x4 and britcar in the past

Generally they are all fine island seems to be the cheapest but I have always had delays with them
Now I mainly use britcar as their prices are competitive and freight cost is very reasonable, and I particularly like their online chat function as you can get a freight cost almost instantly

I also agree with the replacement parts debate in that you often get what you pay for and cheaper parts offer suffer from reduced longevity
I have used some pattern parts before and have had no major issues, but for crucial components I always go genuine or OEM

[Andrew D]

When first looking for parts for the disco, I sussed a few out and settled on Britcar. I really haven't used anyone else. The live chat is excellent and Duncan is a top bloke. I'm on a good wicket with Britcar, currently getting trade prices, so very happy. No sucker can compete with that, great service and prices.

Regards
Andrew

P.S. I have to thank Land Rover Australia for making me look elsewhere.

[bell1975]

+1 for Brit-car. They have always provided me with an exceptional standard of service and their communication is second-to-none. A family owned and operated business they are too AFAIK. I can't recall the boss' name but he was a good bloke to deal with when I had some issues with seat covers I bought from them last year.

Edit: Andrew has named the mystery man- Duncan.