Preparing my L320 Sport for a big trip ..

[hiker]

have perused the forums but unable to find conversion details for air to springs on my 2007 Sport 2.7 TDV6 - having had EAS problems on my previous Rangie I don't want to be caught out again and have sourced a conversion kit in the USA at Range Rover Sport Coil Spring Conversion Kit - Replacement Suspension Parts (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/L320SRK-A.cfm) which apparently changes computer settings to suit. Happy to purchase from US but maybe a local Aust option - even if I just buy the computer reflash module and source the springs here I'd be happy.
Any input / suggestions appreciated
cheers

[sheerluck]

By doing a coil spring conversion, you know that you'd lose most of the terrain response capability, don't you? Those nice dials and buttons on the centre console will be strictly ornamental?

I would have thought your money would have been better spent taking it to a Landy specialist before you go to give it a once over, and buying a few spares, such as air hose and a few connectors.

You may also want to ask the mods to move this to the correct forum, the D3/D4/RRS Forum is the place to be.

[hiker]

Thanks Dave - I guess its a balance between outright reliability and the need for TR - so far (3 years) haven't used the TR even in my country travels - I'm finding that my 'extreme' driving is a 'bad' soft road - maybe its my senior years showing!

[sheerluck]

If you're worried about the longevity of the current components in your RRS, you could import a new compressor and 4 new air springs from the UK for about the same price as that kit you've linked to. Replace the lot before you go, and worries over!

[101RRS]

Other than the compressor running out of puff at about 80,000km the RRS/D3 air suspension is completely reliable and you will waste your money and as Sheerluck says capability in changing to springs.

You said you had a Rangie and don't want the same suspension issues - I assume that was a P38 where there were issues (but mostly resolved these days) and the RRS/D3 system is light years ahead.

Save your money and save up for a new compressor for when the time comes and keep your car as is.

As mentioned you have posted in the old farts Range Rover section when you should have posted in the young and Sporty RRS section - RRS/D3/D4 section :).

Garry

[hiker]

thanks Garry apologies for both age and wrong location. My P38 lost EAS 800km west of Longreach etc etc. Will speak to NCL Prestige and hope theyll give a realistic assessment.

[hiker]

Happy to contact mods but using Tapatalk on my OF phablet and cant see a link etc. .any help apprec!

[101RRS]

I really think you are worrying about nothing. The quality of the bags in the RRS are superior to those in the P38 and there have been few failures as they age. The rest of the system is fairly bullet proof.

The achillies heel is the compresor but if you buy from the UK not all that expensive - however preventative maintenance will keep it going reliably.

In my view the compressor itself is pretty robust but the desiccant can clog up making the compressor overheat and maybe fail.

My car has now done 75,000km and I have had no issues - at the next service I am going to either replace the desiccant or revive it in an oven (do a search on this in the RRS/D3/D4 section) and replace the valve assembly ($18 from a dealer) and check the compressor relay. Also I have LLAMS (height controller - see LLAMS in the Verandah Section) and run it at -20mm so my height rarely gets adjusted around town so lessening the use of the compressor. I assume you do not have LLAMS so I would resist going from onroad height to access height each time you get in an out.

One aspect of changing to springs in a RRS - who is going to buy when it comes time to sell - no one unless you discount it extremely as no one will want a coiled RRS.

Cheers

Garry

[sheerluck]

Happy to contact mods but using Tapatalk on my OF phablet and cant see a link etc. .any help apprec!

Request sent.

[Rohan]

Doesn't Gordon (Green Oval Experience) do an emergency eas inflation kit? From memory, you plug your tyre compressor in & up she goes :)

[discotwinturbo]

Doesn't Gordon (Green Oval Experience) do an emergency eas inflation kit? From memory, you plug your tyre compressor in & up she goes :)

Sure does.

I have my kit...just have to find a couple of hours to fit, and cut the airlines.

If you do remote travel....it's a must have.

Brett....

[Steve223]

Just ordered my emergency inflation kit and get it installed next week.... Just to be sure

[~Rich~]

Hi guys,
On the GOE emergency inflation kit.
It's a great piece of gear to ensure you are not stranded sitting on your bump stops away somewhere in the sticks.

I'm not going against the kit just expressing my experience with it.
I fitted the kit prior to my Simpson trip, no leaks and did not have a problem until we got into the really rough stuff going cross country.I developed a leak in one of the connectors front left. if I had not fitted the kit and had just taken it with me I would not have had any issues at all with my car. I had to remove the front left wheel arch liner and replace the joiner with a new one, simple but a pain out in the desert.

The rear ones are difficult to fit and would of been an even bigger problem if it was one of them that had leaked.
Next vehicle I'll just take the kit.

[Fatso]

Was going to fit the GOE kit but instead made up 4 quikfit connectors and valves which i will carry as insurance , will tie into the air line at the airspring and inflate if i have a problem . Also thought of moving the valve blocks somewhere more convenient to get at and fit new airlines to each spring :eek: but thought better of that idea !! . :rocket:

[hiker]

Going to have the car serviced ready the trip but hypothetically - if the light comes on, then what actually happens and how many kms can I drive and at what recommended speed? Does the EAS have a neutral setting? or does the suspension lower to an emergency setting?

any input appreciated
cheers

[Steve223]

Hi guys,
On the GOE emergency inflation kit.
It's a great piece of gear to ensure you are not stranded sitting on your bump stops away somewhere in the sticks.

I'm not going against the kit just expressing my experience with it.
I fitted the kit prior to my Simpson trip, no leaks and did not have a problem until we got into the really rough stuff going cross country.I developed a leak in one of the connectors front left. if I had not fitted the kit and had just taken it with me I would not have had any issues at all with my car. I had to remove the front left wheel arch liner and replace the joiner with a new one, simple but a pain out in the desert.

The rear ones are difficult to fit and would of been an even bigger problem if it was one of them that had leaked.
Next vehicle I'll just take the kit.

thanks for that makes sense , don't play around with something if it ain't broken, will not get my one installed and just take it as an insurance

[gghaggis]

I've had mine installed for over 2 years, as have all the vehicles we prepared for the 2011 Canning Stock Route and Gibb River tours. Never had a leak and Rich is only the second one I've heard of (I wish he'd told me, I might have been able to help out). The first one led to us changing the connectors we used.

The idea of just carrying it as "insurance" may have some merit, as there would be no arguments with your service agent, but one problem with that approach is that when the EAS fails, it may be impossible to get to the valve block and/or air springs, depending on the terrain. Trying to splice into an airline in 3 foot of mud without getting any dirt into the system is another concern.

Cheers,

Gordon

[~Rich~]

I've had mine installed for over 2 years, as have all the vehicles we prepared for the 2011 Canning Stock Route and Gibb River tours. Never had a leak and Rich is only the second one I've heard of (I wish he'd told me, I might have been able to help out). The first one led to us changing the connectors we used.

The idea of just carrying it as "insurance" may have some merit, as there would be no arguments with your service agent, but one problem with that approach is that when the EAS fails, it may be impossible to get to the valve block and/or air springs, depending on the terrain. Trying to splice into an airline in 3 foot of mud without getting any dirt into the system is another concern.

Cheers,

Gordon

No problem Gordon, where I was was 300k from anywhere! I did have spare connectors and the hose cutter with me. The connector had been leaking slowly over the most difficult part of the trip for about 5 days. It was not enough to worry about until it became a much faster leak and we found the front had dropped to it's bump stops whilst driving over the mogully country. It became a necessicity to fix during a days driving unfortunately as it dropped very quickly at that point.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1160.jpg

Looks like major work! But really it is quite straight forward to pull the front end apart like this. I would of taken about 50min to be up and running again.

However having the experience of fitting the kit I understood the steps required to locate the leak and fixing it.
As you can see the weather was fine so yes I can understand your point about mud as clean is important when fitting the connectors.
But I still stand by my choice that next car I will not fit the kit unless I need to, as Steve mentioned "If it ain't broke don't fix it" Yes it may take a few hours but it could be done after a camp was set and cover erected if required. I carry a spray bottle to put out spot fires under the car, this would be used to assist cleaning the airlines where required.

I do believe it is essential kit for remote travel ;)

[Graeme]

Does the kit require the front and rear valve blocks to retain pressure between them and the airsprings?

[BobD]

Graeme,

You connect the compressor separately to each individual wheel cylinder, pump it up to the required height and close the air valve supplied for each corner. All electronic valves etc are completley bypassed.

I also had a leak at Richmond in Western Queensland that left the front of the car on the bump stops one morning. I had been a bit too thorough in tying back the air lines to prevent chafing on corrugations and the front right connector was under tension and started leaking. Took me about 30 minutes to fix before leaving camp and I didn't even have to remove the mudguard lining.

It takes some courage to fit the rear connectors. In my case I have a long range fuel tank which made it even harder to reach the air lines to the wheel cylinders, cut the existing pipes and install the additional lines from the EAS kit. I had a slow leak on the left rear after I installed it and Gordon kindly helped me to seal it properly.

Apart from the leak that I fixed on the way to Cape York, there have been no more problems and everything is still fine after driving the Cape York tracks and then some rough tracks in the Kimberley.

There is no way that I would try to fit the kit in the bush and I wouldn't do remote travel without it so there is only one solution for me, which is to fit it at home despite the slight risk of adding a leak to the suspension system that wouldn't have been there otherwise.

Bob

[Graeme]

Thanks Bob. However I still don't know if the valves in the valve blocks have to hold pressure. Aren't the valves T'd into the valve block to airspring lines?

[101RRS]

A side question - on a standard system that I modified to allow a remote air compressor to pressurise the tank to 150psi - if the main compressor had failed and I filled the air tank to 150psi with the external compressor would I be able to raise the car to at least onroad height or will the systems detect to broken air compressor in the system and just shut the lot down?

Garry

[CaverD3]

Should work but you would be better pulling the fuse as well to stop it venting.

[gghaggis]

Thanks Bob. However I still don't know if the valves in the valve blocks have to hold pressure. Aren't the valves T'd into the valve block to airspring lines?

Hi Graeme,

The kit plumbs in after the valve block, so when used and shut off, there is no requirement for the valve block to retain pressure. Hence if there is a faulty valve block you're still able to inflate the airbag.

Cheers,

Gordon