Top Ten Puma self-servicing and on-road repairs to know.

[The Cone of Silence]

2008 Puma 110 Wagon ('Monty').

I'm planning a solo trip later this year, probably across Simpson Desert for a couple of weeks from Sydney and back again.

I've been having a look through the multitude of threads on spares, repairs and servicing tasks and it's a bit daunting trying to figure out which are the priority jobs I need to learn how to do and the spares I need to take (and obviously learn how to fit). I have plenty of time and would like to spend it learning how to fix my vehicle if something breaks!

Aside from the really obvious bits like brake pads, oil and filter change and air filter change, what would be in your top ten (or more) for a solo trip like the Simpson in August/ September?

Diff oil change?
Clutch replacement?
Brake/ Clutch master/ slave cylinder replacements?
Suspension repairs?

I'm very keen to hear of those learned through experience with all models, not just the Puma.

Bobby

[Loubrey]

Lots of threads on changing a fuel filter... You cannot just change the fuel filter on Pumas and one batch of dirty fuel (even paint flakes from Jerries) and you won't be going anywhere.

You need to suck/ pump the fuel through with a specific "device" which you can buy for around $60 in Australia or around $25 plus p&p off e-bay.

DRAPER EXPERT 43986 DIESEL PRIMING PUMP FOR FUEL LINES FILTERS & PUMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-43986-DIESEL-PRIMING-PUMP-FUEL-LINES-FILTERS-PUMPS-/150979388563?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item232712a493)

Cheers,

Lou

[Chops]

Hey Lou, that looks the same as a fuel primer for an outboard motor. Someone correct me if you think I'm wrong.
So if you got one of those, from a boat chandler/shop, then go to the wreckers and get hold of the clip-on connection, or you could just use a piece of fuel line, you'd have yourself one for a cheap price.

[Loubrey]

Hi Chops,

Yep, just a normal "bulb" hand primer. If you can find the fittings its cheap and easy and should cost less than a tenner.

The problem remains that without hand priming the TDCi will not start after a filter change. I had a mate in the UK buy a couple and post me one. I then "persuaded" a Ford trained mechanic (beer economy) to show me how to operate the thing!

I've read about using a syringe to "suck" the air out as well as using your compressor to "blow" it through from the tank. All to much effort for the sake of buying a $25 tool off e-bay.

Cheers,

Lou

[Chops]

Bobby, one thing which probably sounds really stupid, but something as simple as knowing how to change a fanbelt correctly/tensioning/etc. Maybe have a practice, and if your not carrying computer with you, carry a hard back manual for reference.
Another thing you might like to consider is a multimeter so you can check electricals' if required. I wanted one of these the other day to double check the duel battery charge. Handy to have, but the knowledge of how to use one is even handier. I was lucky as Gav (Travel buddy) both had one, and knew how to use it,, :cool: Thanks Gav.
Having just come back from a small tour ourselves, another issue we had was the exhaust had moved towards the drivers side, thus rubbing on the tail shaft, and "banging" against the chassis down the back of the car. My fix was to grab my roll of wire out of the back and tie it back over towards the passengers side.
It was an annoying problem, with an easy fix, purely because I always carry some fencing wire. ;)

Having just placed two cans (jerry) of fuel in the car, next on my list of things to learn is the fuel filter and how it works and then priming etc. As Lou has suggested, its a small fee for what could be a major issue if your out in the middle of no-where.

I have Maintenance Fitters training and experience behind me, but when it comes to my own vehicle, for some reason I lack confidence.
But the one thing is to try and have the right tools for the job,,, and sometimes, that tool is just the instructions/manual for whatever you have to do.

[Summiitt]

I've done a few solo trips in my puma, rather than think of the the things that could break, think about what will stop you. Buggered brake pads won't stop you, they may make it inconvenient but you will get to a town. Don't carry so many just incase spares that will weight you down and create an overloading issue. I would agree with the others, fan belt and how to fit it, fuel filters and how to re prime.as there are so many hoses I just carry the 2main water hoses and a few rolls of emergency silicone tape for water leaks. I carry 2part epoxy/liquid metal for repairs to punctured diffs/fuel tanks,fencing wire, a multi meter, and if you need it, grab a workshop manual. And remember with the pumas, if you get into trouble out bush, you can normally find a ford dealership that may get you out of trouble with parts as a lot of sensors and other parts are common.
Load as light as you can and enjoy yourself!

[newhue]

I discovered because a Tdci has like a "supa nut" holding on the wheel hub, it's a good idea to loosen them and re-tighten before any trip.
I recently inspected my wheel bearings, and the 1 nut that now replaced the old two is cranked up to some stupid torque, without the correct tools you aren't fixing it on the side of the road easily. And if you get it off with a cold chisel, you aren't using the nut gain anyway.

So I bought a $5 Britpart hub nut tool. Not the fancy one for the torque tool. Drilled out the existing holes in it to suite my tyre lever. Took the tube handle off the highlift jack and slotted it over the tyre lever, this gave me heaps of leverage. Get someone to force and hold the hub nut tool squarely onto the nut. The other start heave hoeing. The only new tool required is the hub tool, and so far the only tool without a second use.

[Chops]

So Jason, is this nut a different size now? Or will the old version still fit?

[newhue]

Same size. The Tdci also have a inner spacer between the bearings. I assume to stop them crushing when the nut is cranked.
I was pondering go back to the old two nuts and removing the spacer. But concluded LR have done it for a reason. Just not an obvious one for me.

[Loubrey]

Same size. The Tdci also have a inner spacer between the bearings. I assume to stop them crushing when the nut is cranked.
I Eas pondering go back to the old two nuts and removing the spacer. But concluded LR have done it for a reason. Just not an obvious one for me.

As a pretty poor "backyard mechanic" I always managed to tighten the old arrangement too much and then having to back off some unknown amount.

I've not touched the Puma's hubs, but that toll sounds a definite addition and that whole tighten it as much as you can arrangement seem to have removed the need for a skill I never had!:D

Cheers,

Lou

[fonfe]

Bobby, one thing which probably sounds really stupid, but something as simple as knowing how to change a fanbelt correctly/tensioning/etc. Maybe have a practice, and if your not carrying computer with you, carry a hard back manual for reference.
Another thing you might like to consider is a multimeter so you can check electricals' if required. I wanted one of these the other day to double check the duel battery charge. Handy to have, but the knowledge of how to use one is even handier. I was lucky as Gav (Travel buddy) both had one, and knew how to use it,, :cool: Thanks Gav.
Having just come back from a small tour ourselves, another issue we had was the exhaust had moved towards the drivers side, thus rubbing on the tail shaft, and "banging" against the chassis down the back of the car. My fix was to grab my roll of wire out of the back and tie it back over towards the passengers side.
It was an annoying problem, with an easy fix, purely because I always carry some fencing wire. ;)

Having just placed two cans (jerry) of fuel in the car, next on my list of things to learn is the fuel filter and how it works and then priming etc. As Lou has suggested, its a small fee for what could be a major issue if your out in the middle of no-where.

I have Maintenance Fitters training and experience behind me, but when it comes to my own vehicle, for some reason I lack confidence.
But the one thing is to try and have the right tools for the job,,, and sometimes, that tool is just the instructions/manual for whatever you have to do.

You need a long handled 3/8th ratchet to operate the aux belt auto tensioner. Not done one without taking off the fan first though (big fan spanner and a pulley holding tool) would probably be able to get the old belt off and new belt on without removing but the belts are pretty good and not known to snap.
For the priming....you can suck it out with a tube in your mouth if you have no other choice. Just need to suck the fuel out of the lines and till it fills up the filter and comes up to the engine bay. Not pleasant but very doable if out in the bush with no other choice.

[noyakfat]

I'd suggest a very valuable endeavour before your intended trip would be to book your vehicle into a reputable (Land Rover savvy) 4WD mechanic for a pre-trip inspection service. They will be able to suggest things to address before you set off (hopefully preventing a problem out in whoop-whoop) and may be willing to show you around the vehicle for some common things to keep an eye on during your trip.

Best of luck with the journey,
Cheers,
Nige

[The Cone of Silence]

I saw this video on YouTube and it suggests that air bleeding and priming is not necessary if you fill the new filter prior to securing it in place.

If I were to do this, could I reasonably expect the engine to start?

NEW Land Rover Defender 90 2.4 TDCI Puma Oil and Filter Service - YouTube

[Bundalene]

We do a lot of remote traveling.

The 4 main things we find which cause problems are: Tyres, wheel bearings tail shaft unis air filter elements and fuel filters.

Tyres.

Carry a second spare if possible or know how to repair a flat. 90% of the time you can get away with plugs which don't require taking the wheel off the rim, we usually spot a deflating tyre and fix it before it goes down. If you have to remove the tyre for any reason such as a faulty valve stem, you will need specialist equipment, due to the spiral safety catch on the Boost Alloys.

Wheel bearings are usually an easy fix at the side of the road, as long as you pick up the problem early. If you drive with a crook bearing, you can weld the inner of the race onto the hub making the job quite difficult. We carry a set of bearings, spacers locking tab and hub nuts - not very expensive.

Tail shaft unis. If these fail, they can be replaced on the side of the road, or just remove the tail shaft, lock the center diff and get it fixed at the next repairer. Again, spot the problem early - usually a vibration. To check, chock the wheels, take the car out of gear and hand brake off and move the tail shaft - the unis should be tight. These require greasing regularly, especially after prolonged rain of fording. Greasing of the Puma unis is quite difficult and get this done at a workshop on a hoist or become familiar with other methods.

Air cleaner check and tap out every few days in dusty areas. Removing and replacing the Puma ait filter is not as straight forward as it should be

Fuel filter - be aware of how to drain the water trap, collect this in a jar and if there is a lot of water, change the filter. This again is not straight forward. I find it easiest to bleed the fuel system by removing the supply line in the engine bay and pressurising the tank through the breather and collecting the diesel in a jar.



I will think of more


Erich

[Loubrey]

Times like these that you miss the relative simplicity of the 300Tdi...

The Africa spec ones had a primary sediment trap in the same position a Puma's filter sits (most probably the same old bracket design). A two piece aluminium affair that you just stripped apart, scraped the dirt, mud and paint flakes out with a desert spoon kept specifically for the job (dodgy diesel in remote African stations), reassemble the works, swing the starter for 10 seconds and the 300Tdi runs as before!

I would be taking quite a number of filters if I ever get the chance to travel trough Zambia and Tanzania again and its done in a Puma...

Cheers,

Lou

[Brid]

I saw this video on YouTube and it suggests that air bleeding and priming is not necessary if you fill the new filter prior to securing it in place.

If I were to do this, could I reasonably expect the engine to start?

NEW Land Rover Defender 90 2.4 TDCI Puma Oil and Filter Service - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNFfdnfycYg)

That's the only way I've ever changed my fuel filters on the current Puma, previous Td5 & other diesels. I have seen on the forum somewhere, where is was mentioned that "it doesn't work for all Pumas". I don't know why...it works for me, and is a lot quicker than bleeding. We did it the same way when I serviced Cat mining equipment, too.

[spudboy]

I have changed the fuel filter on my PUMA successfully without sucking any fuel through or using a pump thing. Just fill the filter with diesel right to the brim when replacing it. Starts no worries. Didn't skip a beat.

Having said that - having the 'sucker' tool on board would give some degree of confidence if you're out in the bundu and you have to change a filter....

[460cixy]

Pretty **** poor that you need to buy a tool to prime the thing after a filter change real handy good work land rover

[Loubrey]

Pretty **** poor that you need to buy a tool to prime the thing after a filter change real handy good work land rover

I think that one can be laid squarely on Ford...

The development guys at Land Rover were given a very (VERY!) tight budget to develop all aspects of the Puma in time for the 60th Anniversary.

They managed to modify a number of critical aspects of the Duratorq engine like the flywheel, but as the fuel system worked well enough in Ford's UK world it wasn't considered a priority to spend money on.

Thinking like that is why Ford couldn't make a success of owning the marque...

Cheers,

Lou

[schuy1]

I'd suggest a very valuable endeavour before your intended trip would be to book your vehicle into a reputable (Land Rover savvy) 4WD mechanic for a pre-trip inspection service. They will be able to suggest things to address before you set off (hopefully preventing a problem out in whoop-whoop) and may be willing to show you around the vehicle for some common things to keep an eye on during your trip.

Best of luck with the journey,
Cheers,
Nige

No truer words! If you cannot do a proper pretrip inspection yourself get some1 who does. Pretrip preps not only entail making sure the fridge keeps the beer cold but ensuring the machine woll carry your butt home with a minium of probs. What is the point of using a vechile that you need a trailer load of spares with? I spent 6 months preping a 2A SWB for a trip in '96. Bearings. hoses,Auxilarys and it went cape york , across the Gulf to the Sturt Hwy and home via Mt Isa 6000 miles later and I had to replace a tyre!. Prep is everything!

Cheers Scott

[The Cone of Silence]

Marvellous stuff, thanks folks, keep it coming.

I think what I might do is have a chat with the LR specialists that I use to service the car and ask them if they'd be kind enough to spend a couple of hours walking me through a few of the key procedures, showing me tips and tricks...and also the solutions for some of these things that go wrong - bearings, shafts, belt replacement etc

The sort of confidence I'd get from having someone show me step by step what to do in given situations would be invaluable.

Got to be worth a case of beer, right?

[gasman]

Marvellous stuff, thanks folks, keep it coming.

I think what I might do is have a chat with the LR specialists that I use to service the car and ask them if they'd be kind enough to spend a couple of hours walking me through a few of the key procedures, showing me tips and tricks...and also the solutions for some of these things that go wrong - bearings, shafts, belt replacement etc

The sort of confidence I'd get from having someone show me step by step what to do in given situations would be invaluable.

Got to be worth a case of beer, right?

Be prepared to pay out $120 per hour for the lesson.

[The Cone of Silence]

Be prepared to pay out $120 per hour for the lesson.

Yeah I figured the going rate would apply...particularly given all the stupid questions I shall inevitably hurl in their direction!

[noyakfat]

If you listen and it sinks in... then in my opinion it is money well spent :)

Cheers,
Nige

[Bundalene]

2008 Puma 110 Wagon ('Monty').

I'm planning a solo trip later this year, probably across Simpson Desert for a couple of weeks from Sydney and back again.

I've been having a look through the multitude of threads on spares, repairs and servicing tasks and it's a bit daunting trying to figure out which are the priority jobs I need to learn how to do and the spares I need to take (and obviously learn how to fit). I have plenty of time and would like to spend it learning how to fix my vehicle if something breaks!

Aside from the really obvious bits like brake pads, oil and filter change and air filter change, what would be in your top ten (or more) for a solo trip like the Simpson in August/ September?

Diff oil change?
Clutch replacement?
Brake/ Clutch master/ slave cylinder replacements?
Suspension repairs?

I'm very keen to hear of those learned through experience with all models, not just the Puma.

Bobby

Where in Sydney are you. We can give you a few tips to get started, not that I am a mechanic, but I know a little about Land Rovers and have a Puma.

Always got time for a chat.

Send us a PM

[goingbush]

I't took two years prepping our Td5 110 for the trip we are now on, which could be anything from 12 mths to 2 years, we are also towing a off road Van.

Altho Puma is a different kettle of fish you might pick up a hint from my Blog
Going Bush (http://www.goingbush.com/defender.html)

Also re the Wheel bearing comment. I didn't mention on my blog
The Td5 had the same oneshot single nut & spacer as the Puma, IMO this is a really bad setup for extended touring, and a mistake by LR.

I converted to the earlier setup, remove spacer, use 2 nuts and a locktab , and now run the bearings in oil instead of grease. there is lots in the forum about how to do.

I called into Graeme Coopers whilst we were staying in Sydney and also got my intermediate shaft sleeved, ( for longevity) and got them to check over the vehicle for anything I'd missed , this picked up soft engine mounts which I got replaced. Def worth getting an independant assesmant once you think your all good to go. ( & not just from any mechanic)

I carry a nanocom, hoses , thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, 1 of each uni joint, 1 wheel bearing set & 4 hub seals, crank sensor , temp sensor, Throttle pot, a few other odds & ends, van and car have the same wheels /tyres, 2 spares the same and if all goes pear shaped a satellite phone.

so far have not missed a beat !

[Chops]

We do a lot of remote traveling.

The 4 main things we find which cause problems are: Tyres, wheel bearings tail shaft unis air filter elements and fuel filters.

Tyres.

Carry a second spare if possible or know how to repair a flat. 90% of the time you can get away with plugs which don't require taking the wheel off the rim, we usually spot a deflating tyre and fix it before it goes down. If you have to remove the tyre for any reason such as a faulty valve stem, you will need specialist equipment, due to the spiral safety catch on the Boost Alloys.

Wheel bearings are usually an easy fix at the side of the road, as long as you pick up the problem early. If you drive with a crook bearing, you can weld the inner of the race onto the hub making the job quite difficult. We carry a set of bearings, spacers locking tab and hub nuts - not very expensive.

Tail shaft unis. If these fail, they can be replaced on the side of the road, or just remove the tail shaft, lock the center diff and get it fixed at the next repairer. Again, spot the problem early - usually a vibration. To check, chock the wheels, take the car out of gear and hand brake off and move the tail shaft - the unis should be tight. These require greasing regularly, especially after prolonged rain of fording. Greasing of the Puma unis is quite difficult and get this done at a workshop on a hoist or become familiar with other methods.

Air cleaner check and tap out every few days in dusty areas. Removing and replacing the Puma ait filter is not as straight forward as it should be

Fuel filter - be aware of how to drain the water trap, collect this in a jar and if there is a lot of water, change the filter. This again is not straight forward. I find it easiest to bleed the fuel system by removing the supply line in the engine bay and pressurising the tank through the breather and collecting the diesel in a jar.



I will think of more


Erich

Hi Erich,
Digging up an old thread here I know, but would you have a bit more info on how you bleed/bled the fuel system. I've been through the Rave CD, but it doesn't seem to be very clear on which particular hose to remove at the engine.
I've seen the "boat fuel priming squeeze tool" they use, and should be easy to make one if I need to.
Also wondering if you filled the filter before replacing?

Cheers, Marcus

[Summiitt]

Another thing to remember on the pumas,(ford engine), when I last did googs track, I was having problems with a check engine light, thought it was dirty fuel so changed filter, as this has been an issue with me before. ended up taking a punt and going to a little ford dealership, where not only did their diagnostic equipment tell us which sensor was buggered but they had one in stock to suit. Talking with the mechanics they said they hadn't had a close look at the puma engines until then but there was a lot of common parts and components. A good thing to remember given every country town has a ford dealership..

[MLD]

Lots of threads on changing a fuel filter... You cannot just change the fuel filter on Pumas and one batch of dirty fuel (even paint flakes from Jerries) and you won't be going anywhere.

You need to suck/ pump the fuel through with a specific "device" which you can buy for around $60 in Australia or around $25 plus p&p off e-bay.

DRAPER EXPERT 43986 DIESEL PRIMING PUMP FOR FUEL LINES FILTERS & PUMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-43986-DIESEL-PRIMING-PUMP-FUEL-LINES-FILTERS-PUMPS-/150979388563?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item232712a493)

Cheers,

Lou

I have a fuel master (I think it is called that) fuel filter which has a priming pump part of the assembly. More expensive than the above but for the extra money you get a clear bulb and water trap drain. In my build post it shows up in one of the photos.

MLD

[Bundalene]

Hi Erich,
Digging up an old thread here I know, but would you have a bit more info on how you bleed/bled the fuel system. I've been through the Rave CD, but it doesn't seem to be very clear on which particular hose to remove at the engine.
I've seen the "boat fuel priming squeeze tool" they use, and should be easy to make one if I need to.
Also wondering if you filled the filter before replacing?

Cheers, Marcus


Hi, I installed a breather block in the engine bay with breathers from the transfer, both diffs and the fuel tank.

When changing the fuel filter I fill the filter with fuel before screwing back on. This doesn't always work for me, in which case I undo the supply line to the engine and put a jar under this. I then add VERY slight pressure to the breather line and the aerated fuel starts to flow into the jar. Once the fuel is clear, replace the line.





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/270.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/1av4dqj)






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/271.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/jtv9urj)








Erich

[Chops]

Thanks Erich,
Not a bad thought having the breather right at the engine, certainly would make it easier to deal with.
I would imagine theoretically that the line would'nt hold all that much fuel, so a jar of the size you've used would be ample to see it done.
I have onboard air, so should be relatively easy :eek:


MLD, I found your pic, unfortuneatly it doesnt show a great deal, but, something I will be looking into in the future will be a different system that I can bolt on which like yours has a glass bowl, and a water alarm too.
Not sure which way/whom to go with yet, but then I haven't really looked into it as such either.

Cheers boys

[Chops]

Another thing to remember on the pumas,(ford engine), when I last did googs track, I was having problems with a check engine light, thought it was dirty fuel so changed filter, as this has been an issue with me before. ended up taking a punt and going to a little ford dealership, where not only did their diagnostic equipment tell us which sensor was buggered but they had one in stock to suit. Talking with the mechanics they said they hadn't had a close look at the puma engines until then but there was a lot of common parts and components. A good thing to remember given every country town has a ford dealership..

I've wondered about just taking it to a Ford dealer,, after all, in Albury, the LR dealer Is the Ford dealer first and foremost.

Theres a couple of us will be staying in your area, Burra, a couple of days before Easter :D

Cheers

[spudfan]

When changing the diesel filter I never had a false start after filling the new filter with diesel and putting it on.So practise doing an oil/filter change lying on your back as that is how you will be doing it on your trip. That oil does gush out from the sump! Maybe you would consider replacing the origional sump plug with one of these Femco Drainplugs.
Femco Drainplug - How does it work - YouTube
Would be advantageous for oil changes on your trip.
I'd take the bonnet off and get a bright flashlight and check every hose for signs of chaffing.
If not already off get rid of the red lifting bracket at the back of the engine as it has a habit of working loose.
I never had any trouble "assisting" with servicing at an independent I use. Im always under the lift when it's up and allowed as much hands on as I want.
Sometimes I've gone round the back to the "scrapyard", sorry the SPARE PARTS DEPT, and practised doing stuff on old wrecks of Land Rovers.I know there are health and safety regs etc but if you are known to them and sensible you should have no bother. I learned a lot by being present and servicing of my vehicles.
If you have to pay for some educational time at a garage the most important thing to do is to bring the WIFE. I found that my wife is actually the brains of the operation around here. Sometimes when doing stuff on the Land Rover with her assistance she'll spot a commonsense approach to doing something. As I assume the Mrs will be going on the trip you'll be amazed at how sensible and level headed she will be.Every Land Rover toolkit should have one.
Just some thoughts from someone who has never been anywhere.
ENJOY as it is something we all dream about doing, and lots of people on this site actually do it.
P.S. I was present at the birth of both my daughters but I did'nt even consider "assisting" in those situations.

[AndyG]

Im taking delivery of my first Defender ever in late August and heading for corner country/Lake Eyre in September. So far my list is:

replacement turbo hoses
replacement cooling hoses
belts
fluids
beer
cable ties, both plastic & stainless
Metric tools - are there any AF bits on a new Defender ?
Service manual
Looks like i need to add

wheel bearing and bits
uni joint

So following this thread with great interest.

[one_iota]

The only special tool I had to use on a long trip outback was torx bits (the Defender is riddled with torx headed fixings) for the socket set to take the passenger side door off to fix a loose wing mirror...oh and zip ties to hold the rhino rack bar on after one of the nuts on the clamp fell out.

[ATH]

Good informative thread this. I've been wondering about changing the wheel bearing system back to what was but haven't yet been convinced.
Only other thing is I'm one of those that just fill the fuel filter before refitting and have not had a problem. Just get in, start it and let it tick over for a few minutes.
AlanH.

[Summiitt]

Im taking delivery of my first Defender ever in late August and heading for corner country/Lake Eyre in September. So far my list is:

replacement turbo hoses
replacement cooling hoses
belts
fluids
beer
cable ties, both plastic & stainless
Metric tools - are there any AF bits on a new Defender ?
Service manual
Looks like i need to add

wheel bearing and bits
uni joint

So following this thread with great interest.
Are you taking delivery of a new or near new defender? If so I wouldn't bother about wheel bearings, it's unlikely for them to fail.i had one fail at 195,000km. I would recommend a practice change fuel filter at home as the common rail diesels are quiet fussy when it comes to diesel quality, having said that Ive only had fuel issues running around town, but it got the check engine light on and a stint in limp home. As long as you haven't run the engine dry of fuel, Change filter by refilling filter to the brim and run the engine until it settles into a normal idle. As someone else said think of the things that will stop you, not the things that will slow you down.ie.holes in sumps/diffs, filters, belts etc

[AndyG]

Thanks,
Yes new, bearings are probably an overkill, where do you stop. I will see how the price pans out from the UK. But yes a range of tapes, gasket goo and liquid steel, plus a steering guard ot reduce the odds. & a multimeter of course.

[The Cone of Silence]

Bobby, one thing which probably sounds really stupid, but something as simple as knowing how to change a fanbelt correctly/tensioning/etc. Maybe have a practice, and if your not carrying computer with you, carry a hard back manual for reference. .

I've asked the LR Specialists at Ayres if they'll spend some time with me in the next couple of weeks showing me a few jobs so we'll see what they come back with.

I printed the LR Workshop Manual on Sunday. More than 400 pages thick, it's a beast! Now to find a suitable binder for it!

[Chops]

I've asked the LR Specialists at Ayres if they'll spend some time with me in the next couple of weeks showing me a few jobs so we'll see what they come back with.

I printed the LR Workshop Manual on Sunday. More than 400 pages thick, it's a beast! Now to find a suitable binder for it!

What did you print the manual from. If I printed out the Rave disc, I'd have pretty much have well over a thousand pages :eek: (I'm not sure I'm clever enough to do double sided prints ;))

[The Cone of Silence]

I went into Print Settings . Advanced and selected 2 pages per sheet and then also front and back.

All printers are different but if they offer these options, have a bit of a practice just printing a few pages of it and checking it works for you.

It's SO GOOD having it all in colour too - the blue highlighted parts of each diagram e.g. engine components really stand out when on paper.